We departed Lourmarin just as winter had arrived, with Christmas round the corner. The trees were almost bare, only a few remnants of their golden autumn gown still clinging to the branches. Temperatures had fallen, especially when the Mistral blew her cruel, icy breath down the Rhône Valley. There were occasional early morning frosts and mists creeping across the ground at first light. But most days the skies were still cornflower blue, with bright, dazzling rays of sunlight illuminating the world with a clarity only found in Provence. Perfect conditions for the olive harvest.

It's barely been two weeks since we were there, and now, from so far away, it's hard to believe it's all just as we left it. The air perfumed with woodsmoke, and an air of expectancy swirling below the strings of twinkling lights. Below them, along the Lourmarin streets, carefully positioned baby sapins proudly displaying cheery crimson bows.

Brightly decorated shop fronts, our wonderful artist Isirdi's Gallery looking splendid.

Many strung with tiny sparkles.

A profusion of temptations enticingly displayed.

One of my favorite at this time of year, La Maison Franc, their beautiful lavender wands and boules a special treat for the Christmas tree.

Lourmarin's delightful new Boucherie was preparing to supply the village with an array of delicious, festive food!

The weekly markets still arriving, somewhat depleted except for food stalls, happy to help the locals to stock the local people's Christmas pantries.

Warm lazy days sipping rosé in the shade were a distant memory. But café terraces still bustled, their patrons swaddled in coats and scarves, huddled around steaming hot drinks.

Christmas markets were popping up each weekend, we visited this one in the pretty fishing town of Cassis.

Tethered boats bobbed in Cassis harbor where we enjoyed lunch on the quayside.

And in Aix-en-Provence, its famous Cours Mirabeau was lined with a white ribbon of festive stalls.

Provencal gifts from the region; lavender products, incredible carved chocolate sets,

Calissons, a local almond paste speciality.

Festive bow ties.

presents made of wood,

and Santons, the hand-painted terracotta scene figurines made to decorate Provencal Nativity Crèches.

The Christmas Traditions of Provence

The Santons

Santons were first created during the French Revolution by Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822), an artisan from Marseilles. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene had about 55 Santons, depicting not only religious characters but local figures from ordinary life. To this day the Santons are positioned around a traditional crib scene surrounded by small buildings from the village.

Santon fairs take place all over Provence and officially mark the beginning of the Christmas season. We admired the Santon nativity scene displayed inside the magnificent cathedral of Aix-en-Provence, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur.

Le blé de la Sainte-Barbe

Christmas in Provence begins on December 4th, the day of Ste-Barbe. In the days before Christmas little bags of wheat are sold or handed out free at boulangeries. Ste Barbe is celebrated by planting this wheat in small pots. The belief is, that if the wheat grows straight the year ahead will be prosperous.

Traditionally families grow 3 pots of wheat to represent the Holy Trinity. These pots decorate the table on Christmas Eve for the Gros Souper. This is a meatless meal, often beginning with a garlic soup, followed by a fish dish and thirteen desserts. After the Christmas day lunchtime meal the wheat is placed in the crèche among the santons, laid there to symbolise the fields.

Les Treize Desserts~ the 13 desserts

Les Treize desserts is an ancient tradition and steeped in symbolism, thirteen representing the Last Supper with Jesus and the 12 Apostles.

Although it is now possible to buy a simplified, boxed version, traditionally the 13 desserts would have included dried and fresh fruit, two types of nougat, candied fruit and Fougasse, a flatbread made of olive oil and orange flower water. The custom is that the fougasse should be torn not sliced, to do otherwise is to cause financial ruin for the coming year! The desserts are often eaten after Midnight Mass and served together with vin cuit, a fortified wine. Everyone is meant to try a little of each dessert.

Provence and Lourmarin seem very far away from California. And since we left, winter has dusted our little village with a coat of snow. I've been there when it snows, when my fairy tale village seems even more magical, as it waits patiently for Christmas.

I hope you're waiting patiently, not too tied up in wrapping paper, tinsel and chaos!

Wishing you all a Happy Christmas wherever in the world you may be

and thank you for loyally following my ramblings!

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I am often asked if I could help to plan a stay in Lourmarin, so voilà! This itinerary would work from any of the nearby Luberon villages, I've planned it round my favourite market days, listed below. But don't rush around too much, allow yourself to simply ‘be’ ~ to enjoy just being there, immersing yourself in the captivating ambience of this intoxicating part of the world! And don't forget if you need a place to stay I have a village house right in the middle of the village, do get in touch if you're interested in learning more.

SUNDAY

Maybe a day to stay home, explore the village, discover the story of the Lourmarin chateau.Perhaps take a drive around the immediate vicinity, visit the chateau in tiny Ansouis or sample the local wine at the neighbouring vineyards, Château Constantin just along the road from should not be missed, tell the owners that I recommended you visit them, they will take extra special care of you! Sunday is a very popular day for the French to go out for lunch so definitely make a reservation. If you have just arrived & need to stock the pantry, local supermarkets close at lunch time, locations & hours below.

MONDAY

Within 30 minutes
 THE LUBERON
Drive up to Bonnieux, visit the Bread Museum (1 April - 31 October: 1 pm to 6 pm every day except Tuesdays). Enjoy a lazy lunch in the lovely gardens of La Bergerie, afterwards discover Lacoste Ménerbes & the nearby wine domaines before meandering the streets of the ghost town of Oppède-le-Vieux. If you wanted to book a wine tour for later in the week we loved Avignon Wine Tours.

Within 90 minutes 
Avignon (70Km) visit Les Palais des Papes and Avignon's famous bridge Pont d'Avignon/Bénézet, remember the song 'Sur La Pont D'Avignon?' Click here for what to see in Avignon.  Combine a trip to Avignon with a visit to its neighbouring iconic wine region Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

 The Roman towns of Arles (84km) and Nimes (115km) & their incredible Roman arenas.
Aigues Mortes (130km) the most well preserved medieval walled city in Europe, famous for its salt, Le Saunier de Camargue, mined since the 8th century, factory tours available, so worth the drive!

TUESDAY

Gordes and Roussillon
Tuesday is market day in Gordes! After lunch maybe visit the Le Village des Bories. Don't miss L'Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Senanque, a great photo opportunity especially in June when the lavender is blooming. The tour takes an hour & is in French but is a fascinating insight into a working Silent Order. Then continue on to explore the ochre wonders of the village of nearby Roussillon.

WEDNESDAY

 St Remy-de-Provence, Les Baux de Provence & Carrières de Lumières
If you only do one day trip it should be to the video art spectacle at Carrières de Lumières by the perched village of Les Baux de Provence. Admission to the château ruins at Les Baux (an excellent self-guided audio tour, allow an hour)  and to Carrières de Lumières is combined at a discounted rate if you have time. 

Visit on a Wednesday, stopping first at the charming town of St Remy-de-Provence where it's market day. Have lunch in St Remy (poor options at Les Baux) before you take the short drive through the olive groves & vineyards; the view of Les Baux will catch your breath as it become visible on the rocky escarpment to your right!

Within 90 minutes
If you are feeling in need of some sea breezes, Wednesday (& Friday) is also market day in the pretty coastal town of Cassis.
 Take a boat tour to see the incredible finger like inlets Les Calanques de Cassis.

THURSDAY

Within 30 minutes
Bonnieux  Lacoste, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux  ~ see Monday. This time have lunch at the delicious La Terrasse in Goult. If like me, you love the film 'A Good Year' (shot locally in Bonnieux & The Luberon) you could visit Chateau la Canorgue & the filming locations, click here for details.

If you haven't already done so maybe this is your day to spend in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. (39km)

Within 90 minutes
Avignon(70Km), Nimes(115km), Arles(84km) and Aigues Mortes(130km) ~ (see Monday)

FRIDAY

Lourmarin market day
Stay local enjoy the market and lunch in the village!!

SATURDAY

Within 30 minutes
Market day in Apt. You could drive back from here on a different route stopping for lunch at L’Auberge des  Tilleuls in Grambois and then go on to the Occitane factory at Manosque. If you still haven't been to Aix-en-Provence go there today!!!
Within 90 minutes 
Uzès' (107km) Market day, reputedly the best market in Provence, if you haven't visited this delightful bastide city it is truly heaven, again leave early parking is tough on Saturdays, click here for the Uzès Travel Guide! Do stop at the Roman Aqueduct Pont du Gard (UNESCO site) on your way home, quite unforgettable!

SUNDAY

l'Isle sur la Sorgue antique market, stroll the rows of antique stalls by the canals! Great fun but get there early as parking is tough and beware, prices are higher than Paris!! Afterwards you could visit Fontaine de Vaucluse the mysterious source of the Vaucluse river!

MARKET DAYS IN PROVENCE

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt
Wednesday: Mérindol,Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis
Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence,- La Motte d'Aigues & Ménerbes evenings
Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cucuron evenings July & August, Cassis
Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt May- mid November, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Uzès
Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

LOCAL SUPERMARKETS
Lourmarin  
VIVAL: Place du Clos Building Savournin 84160 Lourmarin
~ just along from the Tourist Office, a small grocery shop
Tuesday - Saturday: 08:30-13:00/15:30-19:00  Sunday:08:30-13:00 Monday:closed

SUPERT TAF 2:  42 Rue Philippe De Girard 84160 Lourmarin

BOULANGERIE:  8 Rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin
Tuesday - Sunday: 07:00-13:00/15:00-19:00  (Summer hours:15h30-19h30)

Larger Supermarkets
SUPER U PUYVERT: RN 913  84160 Puyvert ~ a 5 minute drive towards Lauris.
Open every day 09.00-20.00 Sunday until 13.00

CARREFOUR PERTUIS:  Route d'Aix En Provence, 84120 Pertuis ~23 minutes drive
Mon- Sat:08.30-20.30 Sunday:08.30-12.30 (In Pertuis there are a few large supermarkets)

To read more about this beautiful region download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide

If you need an on-sight expert contact Christel. Christel manages my village house Maison des Cerises in Lourmarin. She also offers wonderful gourmet cooking and other great concierge services. Christel has a wealth of local knowledge, speaks fluent English & is charming. Tell her you found her through me, she'd be delighted to help make your visit special.

There are many others places I've yet to discover, let me know what you find!

The post Plan a stay in Lourmarin the Luberon, Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Easily reached on a day's excursion from Lourmarin is the one of the most magnificent cities of Provence, Avignon and vibrant university town of Aix-en-Provence.

The Mediterranean coast is a short drive further; Marseilles, and the quaint fishing towns of Bandol and Cassis.

Not more than an hour from Lourmarin are the charms of Provence's Bouches-du-Rhône region; the bustling market town of St Remy-de-Provence and probably the most splendid of all of Provence's perched villages; Les Baux-de-Provence!

Uzès and the World UNESCO Heritage site, The Pont du Gard, are under two hours from Lourmarin, well worth a visit!

Avignon

Aix-en-Provence

This colourful university city in the Bouches-du-Rhône region of Provence is only 30 minutes from Lourmarin. Stroll the famous Cours de Mirabeau, visit the wonderful daily markets and walk in the footsteps of Cézanne and other great artists, you'll be entranced!

Cassis and Bandol

St- Remy-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Carrières de Lumières

Uzès

Pont du Gard

The post Cities of Provence an hour from Lourmarin appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Shutters and Sunflowers' article about Cassis has just been published by 'Travel France Online' the excellent, free, online travel resource founded by Diane de la Guillermie which in her words, aims '........to help you discover and enjoy French history and culture'. I have visited Cassis many times and enjoyed its unspoiled charm and the incredible Calanques de Cassis, the incredible finger like forges which penetrate its surrounding cliffs.

Watching the World go by in Cassis.

Cassis, a small, picturesque Mediterranean town and long time favourite destination of the French, lies about 40km south of Aix-en-Provence.

Unlike some of its more grander neighbours along the Côte d’Azur, Cassis has maintained a certain gentle authenticity, with its gaily coloured boats and tall, shuttered buildings, a sparkling water front and gently sloping sandy beach.

Click here to read the Cassis article from Travel France Online from Shutters and Sunflowers and remember Travel France Online's site  should you be planning a trip to Diane's beautiful country, it is an invaluable resource for your travels to France!

You can remind yourself of the original article here.

CLICK HERE FOR A PRINTABLE PDF GUIDE ABOUT NEARBY  LOURMARIN & THE LUBERON VALLEY 

The post Travel France Online publishes my post about Cassis appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Shutters and Sunflowers' interview with Tuula from Belle Provence Travels
~ November 5th 2014, Tuula wrote:

Hello dear readers from a very wet and rainy south of France. It’s been a stormy week and it looks as if those fall temperatures have finally kicked-in.

Well, that definitely gives us a nice excuse to start whipping up some hearty comfort food. I’ve been busy doing some easy fall dishes – like lentils & ham and split pea soup – and Nicolas is in line to cook us a Provençal daube (stew)- his “speciality”.

And today I’m very happy to feature another “My Provence” interview – this one comes straight to us from the good ‘ole US of A. Well, with actually more than just a passing stopover in the UK… but that’s just where the story gets interesting.

Caroline Longstaffe is a British expat living in California with a deep passion for France. In her own words, “England is my home, California is where our ‘home’ is and France is the place that reaches out to the depths of my soul!” – Gotta love that.

Caroline writes about her experiences in France, and also her expat journey in the US, on the Shutters and Sunflowers blog, and today she shares with us some of her favorite adventures around Provence and a few of her travel tips for the region.

Merci bien Caroline!

*****************

Tuula's interview with Shutters and Sunflowers

1. What is your connection to Provence, and how long have you been living in or traveling to the region?

I have been visiting Provence since I was a child of 7! Traveling by ferry and car from England, my earliest memories were of the architecture, the cars, the shops (especially what they sold) the colors, the smells and of course the ambience, (although at 7 I don’t think that word was part of my repertoire!). I was incredulous that it was so very different from home, which was a mere, albeit watery, 30 miles away!

I had been to Avignon as a child but my first proper introduction to Provence was the glamour and sparkle of the Cote d’Azur, in the early 1980’s, we honeymooned in Monte Carlo! We later discovered Aix-en-Provence, Cassis and the Var region, distanced from much of the commercialism, we preferred its gentler subtlety. It was about then that we started to dream of finding a place to stay and return to each year, and in 2004 we stumbled upon the glorious bastide town of Uzès, with its ancient, streets, elegant squares, and gently worn, shuttered buildings, was this the place? Then in 2009 on a bright, crisp, April morning, we arrived in the tiny, picturesque, medieval town of Lourmarin, nestled under the hills on the south side of the Luberon Valley. It truly felt like coming home, the place we had been searching for……

In 2012, despite now being based just outside of San Francisco, with both children in college, we found a way of living in Provence for a few months and having failed to find a rental in Lourmarin we moved to Uzès. This enchanting town however, quickly seduced us; the magnificent Ducal Castle, Cathedral, Renaissance mansions and at its heart, Place-aux-Herbes. Fringed with splendid stone arches one could sit here and enjoy the gentle chuckle of the fountain and become immersed in the local bustle whilst sipping a café creme or glass of palest vin rosé !

We were frequently tempted by Place aux Herbes’ array of enticing restaurants and the many events it hosted, carnivals, the annual truffle fare, art fares, pottery exhibitions, brocants and its’ renowned twice-weekly regional market. ‘Marchés’, which became a huge part of our routine; smiling locals selling linens, ribbons, baskets, flowers, cheeses, olives and an abundance of fresh produce.

After 6 wonderful months, a summer back in California, in early October 2012 we returned and opened the door into a charming, shuttered house in the middle of Lourmarin, finally we had come ‘home’.

It is hard to define what makes a place feel truly special, what it is that evokes the senses to be so stirred. Lanes flanked with poppies, olives groves and sprawling vineyards, this “Belle Ville de France’, with its crumbling buildings, meandering cobbled streets, bustling cafes, and restaurants, its’ handful of chic boutiques and most importantly one fabulous boulangerie, became our home. Woken each morning to the gentle chiming of 2 church clocks, slightly out of sync with each other, to a view of ancient stone and clay tiles, Lourmarin, truly filled my soul. As much as I will always love Uzès, Lourmarin is my ‘special place’.

Although now based back in California, somewhere in that small corner of Provence a part of me remains and just like we did this summer, we will return there again and again.

2. Where is your favorite place to visit? (a tough one!)

Yes a tough one! Lourmarin, is my favorite place to live and to visit, but if I was based in Lourmarin I would always urge people to also explore Uzès, taking in on their journey the beauty of the Luberon Valley and its mystical perched villages; Bonnieux, Gordes, Menerbes and Rousillon (to name but a few) I love the Provencal markets, so integral to the region, there is one on somewhere, even in these tiny villages, nearly every day of the week, so I would recommend scheduling your sightseeing around them. My other favorite place, not in the Luberon although close by, (though it is really the answer to the next question), is the captivating perched village of Les Baux de Provence.

3. Do you have a “best travel memory” for the region?

So hard to choose the best memory, obviously finding Uzes and discovering Lourmarin, for me, were life changing memories! However there is one memory I would like to share. On a forlorn winter’s day, on route with family to the delightful town of St-Remy-de- Provence, I caught sight of a sign for ‘Les Baux de Provence’, the name resonated so I decided to explore. Anticipation mounted as we followed the twisty, tree lined road through the Alpilles. I will always remember the thrill of our first glimpse of the tumbled chateau ruins, high above the perched village of Les Baux, its grey walls almost disappearing into the bleak February sky. Despite the tearing mistral and icy chill we strolled Les Baux’s tiny streets and even though little was open and it was too late in the day to tour the chateau, it was magical.

I returned to Les Baux many times touring the fascinating chateau ruins where from its towering heights one can gaze down onto acres of the surrounding olive groves and vineyards, a view of Provence that dreams are made of. A ten minute amble away is the incredible ‘Carrières de Lumières,’ an extraordinary multimedia video show set to music within the heart of a gigantic series of bauxite caves, spell- binding!!

 4. Can you think of one piece of advice or recommendation for travelers to Provence?

Don’t try to see it all, Provence is a big place! To capture its essence visit the Luberon, the vineyards and its entrancing, tiny, perched villages. You can become lost in their ambience for an entire day, or just in a momentary drive through by car! As previously mentioned, time your trips to be there on a market day which will give you a real feel for the region and the warmth of the local people, never mind the fact you’ll have fun shopping!

5. Finally, can you give us one sentence which you feel describes Provence?

An enchanting place of cobbled streets, worn limestone buildings, shutters, sunflowers, lavender, vineyards and olive groves, where time seems to have stood still, and where once you have visited will become part of your soul forever, this is Provence.

Also, I very much wanted to include a “sensation” that helps me describe Provence – the haunting music ‘Wisdom’ which rings in my ears, in fact in my heart. It is the theme track to the Peter Mayle story, Ridley Scott film, “A Good Year” with Russell Crowe and Albert Finney. I know it wasn’t Oscar winning but the cinematography was stunning and beautifully captured the essence of the region. It is a simple, silly, romantic film yet to me has such a profound message (I actually wrote a blog post about it).

Chateau Canorgue, where it was filmed, was just a 15-minute drive from where we were in Lourmarin, just outside of Bonnieux!

Lavender, one of the treasures of Provence, L’Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, outside of Gordes close to Bonnieux

Again, a very big “merci” to Caroline (I loved all the detail in her interview, so dreamy!) for sharing some of her favorite travel memories, and if you’d like to read more of her adventures, be sure to check out her blog – Shutters and Sunflowers.

Caroline also has a Shutters and Sunflowers Facebook page if you’d like to meet-up with her there.

*****************

Shutters and Sunflowers would like to say:

A huge 'merci beaucoup' to Tuula too!
Tuula is from Southern California but followed her dreams and moved to Europe where she met her husband. She now lives in beautiful Provence from where she writes her lovely blog Belle Provence Travels, I am sure you would love it too!

CLICK HERE FOR A PRINTABLE PDF GUIDE ABOUT LOURMARIN & THE LUBERON VALLEY  my suggestions of where to stay eat and play, do let me know your recommendations !

The post An Interview with Belle Provence Travels appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The small, picturesque Mediterranean town of Cassis, about 40km south of Aix-en Provence, has maintained a certain gentle authenticity, unlike some of its more grander neighbours along the Côte d'Azur. A long time favourite destination of the French, with its gaily coloured boats and tall, shuttered buildings, a sparkling water front and gently sloping sandy beach. Surrounded by the dramatic cliff tops of the nearby Les Calanques de Cassis, which the region is famous for, these narrow, finger like forges that penetrate the rocks, mostly only accessible by boat.

Cassis on a bustling Saturday by the quayside.

Shops and restaurants spill out onto the streets along the crowded quayside, the warm, spring air is peppered with voices. Shrill, persistent children excitedly urging their parents to hear them "Maman, Maman, Papa, attention!" Couples muttering and nudging each other as  they point things out to one another, strolling along in the relaxed easy manner of  lazy sun-drenched afternoons. Sipping a local chilled Bandol rosé, we wait for our friends arrival, dreamily people watching. Everything seems enthused by the much anticipated promise of warmer days, coats have been shed and boots mostly replaced. An array of brightly coloured cotton scarves catch the breeze as men and women alike parade a twirling twist of fabric round their necks, so delightfully European! Restaurants drag out their parasols and shuffle chairs, anxious to accommodate their newly expanded clientele, grateful that a more lucrative business period is about to begin.

Later, when the Cassis castle is bathed in a golden sunlight, having lunched, shopped and generally wandered, we find ourselves seated again, admiring the view, another glass in hand as the daylight just starts to dwindle.

Cap Canaille - the tallest rock on the Mediterranean, becomes a warm golden red.

Our journey back takes us through the vineyards of Les Castellets and Bandol.
We revisit the charming medieval village-perché of Les Castellet, where the house I admired in the autumn, adorned in deep shades of burgandy now waits expectantly for the same creeping vine to burst into colour again.

Just outside Aix-en Provence, it is just possible to capture the hills around Saint Victoire, a favourite of Paul Cézanne, after the sun has tipped her hat and made her final smile of the day.

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