On Saturday we went back to the beautiful bastide town of Uzès. An hour and a half from Lourmarin, just west of Avignon, we often visit on a Saturday. We get up early to stop off on route at the Antique Market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, a weekly event across the river from Avignon, to then hurry on to Uzès where on a Saturday Uzès plays host to arguably one of the finest markets in the region. This delightful duchy holds a special place in my heart. It's where we lived in 2012 and where the story of Shutters and Sunflowers began. It's also the stage for my World War II historical novel, The Sunflower Field, the true story of the Polish cryptologists who having cracked The Enigma Code in 1932, lived in hiding in Uzès, for two years during the war.

And within minutes of arriving back I was reminded of the inspiration for the title of my blog. The shutters adorning the windows of Uzès that so captivated me,

and the golden smiling faces of the sunflowers, which long after they've danced their annual repertoire in nearby fields, still fill the flower baskets in the market.

A market that was in full swing when we found our way there, shaded below its' leafy canopy in Uzès central square, Place-aux-Herbes.

Amongst the abundance of fresh produce was local purple garlic,

and colorful whicker baskets, greatly reduced in price as the summer season has begun to dwindle to a close.

And announcing the arrival of autumn, there was a wide variety of mushrooms, including a Provençal speciality, cèpes, only available for a few weeks at this time of year.

The market winds its way along the cobbled streets between the town's splendid golden arches.

And by lunchtime the restaurant tables are full, weary shoppers tempted by the plat du jours. Laughter and chatter fill the air and no-one seems to notice the market slowly slip away.

Leaving the bustle behind, it's an ideal time to explore the now deserted streets.

One quickly becomes immersed in the charming ambience of this truly special place. A timeless enchantment which never fades.

The worn steps of Rue rue Saint-Théodorit entice us down.

And finding our way back to Place-aux-Herbes, all swept and cleaned, it's hard to believe just moments earlier this was the hub of a busy, heaving market.

Crossing the square we wandered into a local favorite, the one shop I always have to return to, Les Pots d'Uzès

I wished I could buy some more, especially the very largest ones for my outdoor patio.

I had to content myself with just looking ......

As we made our way back through the streets we caught a glimpse of one of the treasures of Uzès, the Fenestrelle Tower, peeking its head above the roof tops.

Nearby a sunflower smiled in greeting outside one of the local artisan's shops.

We passed by more ancient, shuttered buildings,

and lingered for one last time in Place-aux-Herbes, not wanting to leave.

Standing wistfully outside the house where we lived (which I've featured in my novel)

we wandered back down the street and as always, I wondered disloyally, if maybe we should have bought in Uzès, it always beguiles me so....

Driving back, we promised ourselves to soon make a trip back to the magnificent walled city of Avignon.

And through the front windscreen, as we caught a glimpse of Le Pont Saint Benezet, we found ourselves humming the nursery tune we'd both learned in Primary school, 'Sur la Pont d'Avignon...'

That evening, back in Lourmarin, sitting outside our beloved Café Gaby, my doubts about where we should have our house in Provence, fade. I'll always adore Uzès and love every moment we spend there, but this is where we belong.....

Come and see for yourself!

Download  The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès my travel tips about Uzès

Rent Maison des Cerises ~our house in Provence, already taking bookings for 2022!

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I am often asked if I could help to plan a stay in Lourmarin, so voilà! This itinerary would work from any of the nearby Luberon villages, I've planned it round my favourite market days, listed below. But don't rush around too much, allow yourself to simply ‘be’ ~ to enjoy just being there, immersing yourself in the captivating ambience of this intoxicating part of the world! And don't forget if you need a place to stay I have a village house right in the middle of the village, do get in touch if you're interested in learning more.

SUNDAY

Maybe a day to stay home, explore the village, discover the story of the Lourmarin chateau.Perhaps take a drive around the immediate vicinity, visit the chateau in tiny Ansouis or sample the local wine at the neighbouring vineyards, Château Constantin just along the road from should not be missed, tell the owners that I recommended you visit them, they will take extra special care of you! Sunday is a very popular day for the French to go out for lunch so definitely make a reservation. If you have just arrived & need to stock the pantry, local supermarkets close at lunch time, locations & hours below.

MONDAY

Within 30 minutes
 THE LUBERON
Drive up to Bonnieux, visit the Bread Museum (1 April - 31 October: 1 pm to 6 pm every day except Tuesdays). Enjoy a lazy lunch in the lovely gardens of La Bergerie, afterwards discover Lacoste Ménerbes & the nearby wine domaines before meandering the streets of the ghost town of Oppède-le-Vieux. If you wanted to book a wine tour for later in the week we loved Avignon Wine Tours.

Within 90 minutes 
Avignon (70Km) visit Les Palais des Papes and Avignon's famous bridge Pont d'Avignon/Bénézet, remember the song 'Sur La Pont D'Avignon?' Click here for what to see in Avignon.  Combine a trip to Avignon with a visit to its neighbouring iconic wine region Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

 The Roman towns of Arles (84km) and Nimes (115km) & their incredible Roman arenas.
Aigues Mortes (130km) the most well preserved medieval walled city in Europe, famous for its salt, Le Saunier de Camargue, mined since the 8th century, factory tours available, so worth the drive!

TUESDAY

Gordes and Roussillon
Tuesday is market day in Gordes! After lunch maybe visit the Le Village des Bories. Don't miss L'Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Senanque, a great photo opportunity especially in June when the lavender is blooming. The tour takes an hour & is in French but is a fascinating insight into a working Silent Order. Then continue on to explore the ochre wonders of the village of nearby Roussillon.

WEDNESDAY

 St Remy-de-Provence, Les Baux de Provence & Carrières de Lumières
If you only do one day trip it should be to the video art spectacle at Carrières de Lumières by the perched village of Les Baux de Provence. Admission to the château ruins at Les Baux (an excellent self-guided audio tour, allow an hour)  and to Carrières de Lumières is combined at a discounted rate if you have time. 

Visit on a Wednesday, stopping first at the charming town of St Remy-de-Provence where it's market day. Have lunch in St Remy (poor options at Les Baux) before you take the short drive through the olive groves & vineyards; the view of Les Baux will catch your breath as it become visible on the rocky escarpment to your right!

Within 90 minutes
If you are feeling in need of some sea breezes, Wednesday (& Friday) is also market day in the pretty coastal town of Cassis.
 Take a boat tour to see the incredible finger like inlets Les Calanques de Cassis.

THURSDAY

Within 30 minutes
Bonnieux  Lacoste, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux  ~ see Monday. This time have lunch at the delicious La Terrasse in Goult. If like me, you love the film 'A Good Year' (shot locally in Bonnieux & The Luberon) you could visit Chateau la Canorgue & the filming locations, click here for details.

If you haven't already done so maybe this is your day to spend in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. (39km)

Within 90 minutes
Avignon(70Km), Nimes(115km), Arles(84km) and Aigues Mortes(130km) ~ (see Monday)

FRIDAY

Lourmarin market day
Stay local enjoy the market and lunch in the village!!

SATURDAY

Within 30 minutes
Market day in Apt. You could drive back from here on a different route stopping for lunch at L’Auberge des  Tilleuls in Grambois and then go on to the Occitane factory at Manosque. If you still haven't been to Aix-en-Provence go there today!!!
Within 90 minutes 
Uzès' (107km) Market day, reputedly the best market in Provence, if you haven't visited this delightful bastide city it is truly heaven, again leave early parking is tough on Saturdays, click here for the Uzès Travel Guide! Do stop at the Roman Aqueduct Pont du Gard (UNESCO site) on your way home, quite unforgettable!

SUNDAY

l'Isle sur la Sorgue antique market, stroll the rows of antique stalls by the canals! Great fun but get there early as parking is tough and beware, prices are higher than Paris!! Afterwards you could visit Fontaine de Vaucluse the mysterious source of the Vaucluse river!

MARKET DAYS IN PROVENCE

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt
Wednesday: Mérindol,Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis
Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence,- La Motte d'Aigues & Ménerbes evenings
Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cucuron evenings July & August, Cassis
Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt May- mid November, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Uzès
Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

LOCAL SUPERMARKETS
Lourmarin  
VIVAL: Place du Clos Building Savournin 84160 Lourmarin
~ just along from the Tourist Office, a small grocery shop
Tuesday - Saturday: 08:30-13:00/15:30-19:00  Sunday:08:30-13:00 Monday:closed

SUPERT TAF 2:  42 Rue Philippe De Girard 84160 Lourmarin

BOULANGERIE:  8 Rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin
Tuesday - Sunday: 07:00-13:00/15:00-19:00  (Summer hours:15h30-19h30)

Larger Supermarkets
SUPER U PUYVERT: RN 913  84160 Puyvert ~ a 5 minute drive towards Lauris.
Open every day 09.00-20.00 Sunday until 13.00

CARREFOUR PERTUIS:  Route d'Aix En Provence, 84120 Pertuis ~23 minutes drive
Mon- Sat:08.30-20.30 Sunday:08.30-12.30 (In Pertuis there are a few large supermarkets)

To read more about this beautiful region download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide

If you need an on-sight expert contact Christel. Christel manages my village house Maison des Cerises in Lourmarin. She also offers wonderful gourmet cooking and other great concierge services. Christel has a wealth of local knowledge, speaks fluent English & is charming. Tell her you found her through me, she'd be delighted to help make your visit special.

There are many others places I've yet to discover, let me know what you find!

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The magnificent city of Avignon is only about 70km from Lourmarin.
Visit it here on this Avignon video tour.

Better still, spend a day here and discover its rich and fascinating history.
Explore the ramparts of its incredibly well preserved city wall,
built in 1403, which like a ribbon round a cake, still circles the town today.
Avignon was home to the Popes for one hundred years, visit where they lived,
Les Palais des Papes.
Explore its many other sites,
not forgetting to dance on its famous bridge,
Pont d'Avignon, over the mighty Rhône River,
magical and quite unforgettable!

Click here for further information:  

AVIGNON, WHAT TO SEE 

AVIGNON, WHERE TO STAY

AVIGNON, WHERE TO EAT

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Easily reached on a day's excursion from Lourmarin is the one of the most magnificent cities of Provence, Avignon and vibrant university town of Aix-en-Provence.

The Mediterranean coast is a short drive further; Marseilles, and the quaint fishing towns of Bandol and Cassis.

Not more than an hour from Lourmarin are the charms of Provence's Bouches-du-Rhône region; the bustling market town of St Remy-de-Provence and probably the most splendid of all of Provence's perched villages; Les Baux-de-Provence!

Uzès and the World UNESCO Heritage site, The Pont du Gard, are under two hours from Lourmarin, well worth a visit!

Avignon

Aix-en-Provence

This colourful university city in the Bouches-du-Rhône region of Provence is only 30 minutes from Lourmarin. Stroll the famous Cours de Mirabeau, visit the wonderful daily markets and walk in the footsteps of Cézanne and other great artists, you'll be entranced!

Cassis and Bandol

St- Remy-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Carrières de Lumières

Uzès

Pont du Gard

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I told you last time about Lourmarin, but why should you go there too?
Quite simply, because it’s beautiful.
Twisting cobbled streets, limestone buildings the colour of honey,
faded shutters and clay tiled roof tops.
Chic boutiques, galleries, vibrant cafés and restaurants.
A fabulous Friday market,
linens, baskets, treasures from Provence.
A mystical 15th century château, lavish music concerts and soirées.
Local wineries, fairy tale perched villages of the surrounding Luberon.
The enchanting cities of Avignon and Aix-en-Provence less than an hour away.
The dazzling Mediterranean coast hardly any further.
But there's another reason to visit Lourmarin....

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Discover the charm of this enchanting walled city,
unravel the secrets from its medieval past
when it was home to the Popes
and the most powerful city in Europe.
Explore its museums, cathedrals shops and restaurants,
walk over the mighty Rhône River
and dance on its famous bridge,
'Sur la pont d'Avignon',
quite magical.......... 

Click here for further information:

AVIGNON, WHAT TO SEE 

AVIGNON, WHERE TO STAY

AVIGNON, WHERE TO EAT

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The stunning city of medieval city of Avignon,
nestled on the banks of the mighty Rhone River
home to the Popes in the 1300's for nearly a century
It is surrounded by the breathtakingly beautiful countryside
of the Vaucluse, Provence.
There are many accommodation options available nearby,
and within the city.
Here are some of our favourites,
both hotels and charming bed and breakfasts

HOTELS

Hôtel La Mirande

Hôtel D'Europe

Hôtel de L'Horloge

BED & BREAKFASTS

Aux Augustins

L’Observance

Maison Orsini

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Like a ribbon round a cake, the magnificent medieval city of Avignon
is surrounded by a beautifully preserved city wall built in 1403.
During the 14th century it was the center of one of the richest courts in Europe.
As home to the Catholic Church, it was one of the most powerful,
even today is still referred to as the ‘City of the Popes’.
There is so much to see in Avignon

Come and admire the Palais des Papes, home to 7 Popes from 1309 to 1376,
a World UNESCO site and the largest Gothic Palace in the world.
Walk across the mighty Rhône River on the famous Pont d'Avignon,
built in 1185 from the inspirations of a shepherd called Bénézet.
Hum the bridge’s famous song as you explore the streets of Avignon,
its museums, shops, restaurants and on Sunday its vibrant flea markets.

Palais des Papes

Place du Palais 84000 Avignon, France +33 4 32 74 32 74
Hours: 9AM–7PM in July 8pm August 8.30 audio tours are available

Wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape

From the wine shop inside the Palais des Papes learn about Rhône wine, from Châteauneuf-du-Pape   to Hermitage  +33 4 90 27 50 85 Open 10am-7pm daily; access through the palace's shop.

Luminessences Avignon

From August 10 to 2 October 2016 come and be stunned by the incredible light show in the courtyard of the Palace
Next to the Palais de Papes explore:

Rocher des Doms

The beautiful park next to the Palais and gaze down on the panoramas over the Rhône and across to the ancient village of Villeneuve-lez-Avignon.

Musee du Petit Palais
Place du Palais, Avignon, France +33 04 90 86 44 58

Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms
Place du Palais, Avignon  +33 04-90-86-81-01

Eglise Saint Pierre
Place Saint Pierre, 8400Avignon, France

Pont D’Avignon/Bénézet. 

Hours: 9AM–7PM in July 8.00pm, August 8.30pm audio tours are available.

Place de l'Horloge

Enjoy lunch here or glass of wine and admire the Hôtel de Ville
Place de l'Horloge, 84045, Avignon, France +33 04 90 80 80 00

Musée Angladon

5 rue Laboureur, 84000 Avignon, France  + 33 4 90 82 29 03
Open 1-6pm daily except Monday. A striking 18th-century property containing the only Van Gogh on display in Provence (Train in Arles 1888), along with works by Degas, Manet,Picasso and the remarkable art collection of fashion designer Jacques Doucet, who died in 1929.

Musée Calvet

5 rue Joseph Vernet, 84000 Avignon, France +33 04 90 86 33 84
Museum of Fine Arts and Archeology set within a stunning 18th century mansion.

SHOPPING

Stroll the designer shops on Rue Joseph Vernet is full of designer boutiques
For a gourmet treat visit the fascinating indoor market Les Halles Place Pie, Avignon, France : +33 49 027 15 15

Markets

Marché aux Puces in the Place du Marché, Villeneuve ~ Saturday morning
Stoll across to Villeneuve for its delightful brocante (flea) market and admire the beautiful medieval buildings away from the tourist traffic

Avignon Brocante Place des Carmes 84000 Avignon  ~ Sunday morning

Festival d'Avignon

Each July, don't miss the Avignon Festival, performed in part in the courtyard of Palais Des Papes, it is one of the most important contemporary performing arts events in the world! Check online for exact dates.

TOURIST OFFICE: 41 Cours Jean Jaurès, 84000 Avignon, France :+33 4 32 74 32 74 

Hours: 9AM–6PM

Let me know what you discover to see in Avignon !

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Easter is only a few weeks away and Uzès is getting ready.
Previously closed shops and restaurants, are re opening.
The cobbled streets below the magnificent, golden arches surrounding Place aux Herbes,
its stunning central square and market place, are being washed and swept.
New leaves are gently uncurling, to form their natural canopy of shade across the square.
Everywhere is bursting into life ready for an influx of excited Easter visitors,
thrilled to be escaping for a few days,
to explore and discover this delightful little bastide town,
maybe you are going to be one of them?

listening to the local chattering bustle
becoming immersed in the unique, beguiling atmosphere.

Download The Uzès, Travel Guide for Uzès and the surrounding regions of Languedoc Roussillon and Provence.

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Laughter over lunch with those you love, what could be more special? Being with dear friends for a long weekend, sharing our favourite spots at Christmas in Provence.

Long delicious lunches, after which we meandered around the streets of  Lourmarin and surrounding villages. Together we kicked off the Christmas season, sipping ‘vin chaud’ at the Avignon ‘Marche de Noel’. Our Provencal lunch was made more special in the ambience of an ancient, oak beamed restaurant sitting by a roaring fire and Christmas tree.

We delighted in purchases that could only be found in this region, hand milled French soaps and lavender filled Christmas baubles before marveling once again at the magnificent Palais des Papes as we braced the crisp December air up above its ramparts.

Suppers by our fireside and a rambling country walk before a magnificent Sunday lunch completed our time together.

A heavenly weekend, reminiscent of days before children. The years seem to have evaporated, we are older, hopefully wiser, a little frayed around edges but still relishing sharing laughter and happy times with good friends; we even got to play play 'Pooh sticks', such fun! A magical time with dear friends at Christmas in Provence!

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