Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Since opening in 2012 the stunning video art show at Carrières de Lumières has entranced millions. Situated just steps from the medieval perched village of Les Baux-de-Provence each year, the work of the Masters is splashed across the cavernous walls of this former bauxite quarry. This year, 'Van Gogh, La Nuit étoilée' pays tribute to one of the world’s greatest artists, Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890).

From a selection of about 500 paintings, Carrières de Lumières’ talented artistic directors Gianfranco Iannuzzi, Renato Gatto and Massimiliano Siccardi, showcase Van Gogh's incredible genius. His story is told across the quarry’s 7000 square meters of walls, many of which loom over 15 meters high. Starting from the sun-drenched wheat fields of Arles, to Paris and then back to Provence, from where Van Gogh strove tirelessly to capture the light and colours of this region which so bewitched him.

"Van Gogh is one of the most important painters that ever lived. The exhibition produced for Carrières de Lumières highlights the artist's unique approach. We realised it was important to show the thickness of the paint medium and the impact of colors, and focus on the decisiveness of the brushstrokes and use of line, all of which are so characteristic of Van Gogh's works" Gianfranco Iannuzzi

As in the preceding performances there is an enthralling accompanying exhibit. This year's 'Dreamed Japan Images of the Floating World' profiles art from the land of the rising sun which inspired Van Gogh profoundly.

Vincent Van Gogh's childhood

Born in Groot Zundert in the Netherlands in 1853, Vincent Van Gogh was the eldest of six children. Inspired by his father who as a pastor used imagery to illustrate his sermons, Van Gogh began painting as a young child. Difficult, shy and socially awkward he left school at 16 and went on to work at art galleries in the Hague, Brussels, London and Paris.,

Van Gogh the young artist

During his time in London and Brussels, distressed by the plight of the poor and sick, this troubled young man sought to find his soul in painting. His work from then reflects the sorrow he felt for the disenfranchised.

The Potato Eaters ~ Vincent Van Gogh

In 1880, at the age of 27 Van Gogh enrolled at Academie Royale des Beaux-Arts in Brussels. From here he began to paint in earnest, initially mostly landscapes and then scenes from every day life. After his father's death in 1885 his paintings became more liberated and he began 'to paint what I feel and feel what I paint.' (Vincent Van Gogh)

Van Gogh in Provence 1888 -1889

Wishing to escape hectic city life, in February 1888 Van Gogh moved to Arles, Provence. Initially he lived in a room at Café de la Gare before moving to the La Maison Jaune. Surrounded by the natural light and colours of Provence Van Gogh found the perfect place to develop his talents.

His use of bold colours and powerful brushstrokes demonstrates the dialogue he saw between light and shadows. Expressed dramatically in the multi-coloured petals of one of his most famous pieces, The Sunflowers, les Tournsoles, flowers which are still so synonomous with Provence and which he painted both in full bloom and dying.

'The Sunflowers' ~ a series of three paintings, 1888.

The sunflowers at Carrières de Lumières.

During his time in Arles Van Gogh became fascinated by the local people which he considered to be so different from elsewhere.

Turbulent Housemates by Van Gogh

From Arles he continued to develop his unique treatment of light, depicted most famously in Terrasse de café le soir, Le café de nuit, La Maison Jaune and La Chambre.

La Chambre ~ Vincent Van Gogh

Brilliantly capturing the beauty of Provence within which he'd immersed himself, Van Gogh's work also continued to reflect the intensity of his thinking and his inner torment. The turmoil he saw and then painted in nature perhaps mirrored his own anguish, illustrated in the sublime but ominous atmosphere of the sky in Nuit étoilée sur le Rhône (1888) and La Nuit étoilée (1889).

La Nuit étoilée ~ Vincent Van Gogh

His paintings of the olive and cypress trees (1889) also show this chaos he saw in natural beauty.

After a brief collaboration with Paul Gaugin, who joined him in Arles, Van Gogh's unbalanced mind led him to cut off his own ear.

He was treated locally and again several times afterwards suffering from insomnia and hallucinations. Finally in May 1889 he admitted himself to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, an asylum for the mentally ill in nearby Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. He stayed there for a year still continuing to paint hoping to find solace in his work.

Van Gogh's paintings of the interior of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum

Van Gogh's irises painted during his stay at the Saint-Rémy asylum

During his time at the asylum Van Gogh also completed a series of self portraits.

His omin0us stare and the use of robust brushstrokes and intense colors mirror his agonized emotional state.

In May 1890, his health still extremely fragile, Van Gogh left Saint-Rémy and moved to Auvers-sur-Oise where he lived over a café. From here he famously painted the local church.

L'église d'Auvers-sur-Oise, vue du chevet by Vincent Van Gogh

Carrières de Lumières' 'La Nuit étoilée' ends with one of Van Gogh's last works 'The Wheat Field with Crows' (1890). Immersed into major landscapes he tried to capture the order of nature painting a threatening sky which contrasted sharply with the gold hues of a wheat field.

Unable to reconcile his increasingly disturbed state of mind on 27 July 1890 Van Gogh tragically shot himself. He died two days later never understanding his own genius or the fame that his incredible work would achieve. His astounding talent in over 2000 works remain on display as part of priceless collections around the world, magnificently portrayed in this year's spectacle at Carrières de Lumières.

If you'd like to learn more about Van Gogh there are countless places you can visit, the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam is a good place to start.

Visiting Carrières de Lumières
Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2020
Admission: 13 Euros, family and other discounts available. Booking online advance is recommended

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières
Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in  Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

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What motivates and inspires someone to leave where they live where everything is safe and familiar and move to another country? Somewhere with a completely different language, culture and way of doing things? What happens if you need medical attention or a plumber, or if your car breaks down, or if you get stopped by the local police, especially when you scarcely speak the language? Why would anyone do this unless they had to? Even if the place is Provence, which although utterly beguiling, still doesn't induce it's very many visitors to actually move there!

Author Keith Van Sickle does a marvelous job of attempting to explain why. His first book, succinctly articulates the key to survival in the title; ‘One Sip at a Time’! Yet while Keith and his wife Val may well have drawn courage sampling the splendid offerings of the local vintners, they have also made valiant efforts to really embrace this other place they call home.

And there is much to understand, the customs, the food, the language, a feat in itself, as Keith explains: 'there are a mind blowing 26 (yes, 26) tenses of French verbs!'

Refusing to be daunted by all those very many declensions, Keith and Val have opened their hearts and minds to the entire way of life in Provence and what they cherish most of all, the people. Perhaps it’s of little surprise that the title of Keith’s second book is the question they’ve so often asked themselves: ‘Are We French Yet?’ You’ll have to read it to decide. Click here to buy

Both of Keith’s books are fun, easy reads, full of charming, witty accounts of the many exploits, discoveries and occasional mystifying challenges he and Val have encountered in Provence. Many of which I can totally relate to.

There’s the issue of kissing when you greet people: 'If you gave three kisses when it should be two, would people think you were rather pushy and forward? If you only gave two kisses instead of three, would you be considered standoffish?'

And the Pharmacies; much tinier than in the US and with different rules where you can’t just help yourself to over-the-counter medications: 'Instead, you have to wait in line to see a pharmacist, and then describe your problem so that… everyone in line can hear what you’re saying.' And if you don’t speak great French the Pharmacist will announce for the entire shop to hear: '“Speak up! You say you have a HORRIBLE LOOKING FUNGUS on your WHAT?” '

Then there’s the all-important thing our 'children' tease about, the wearing of scarves, not by me but my husband, an obligatory accessory whether male or female when living in Provence or as it turns out much to the 'children’s' amusement when you return to California! For as my husband (modeling below) and Keith know 'the French wear scarves year-round. AND they know how to tie them.'

Keith does a great job of articulating why he and Val love Provence. How it makes them feel, its’ alluring pace, its’ natural beauty, its’ people, its’ way of life, its’ fascinating history whose timeless traditions still reach out to touch life today. A myriad of tiny details as abundant as a basket filled with fresh sunflowers picked from the local fields, ones which have also smiled upon us and totally resonate.

We actually have much in common. We both live near San Francisco, we both enjoy food and good wine, we are both curious explorers interested in people. We might originate from different continents but we share a deep-seated passion for Provence which inspired us both to write, not just our blogs which connected us but to write a book. I'm still embarking upon the arduous conventional publication path for my World War II novel set in Provence telling the true story of the Poles who first cracked the Enigma code. With two successful publications to his name Keith is way ahead of me and I’ve enjoyed both of them

I’m in awe of Keith and Val’s impressive efforts to master the French language, somehow succeeding in declining all those tenses and getting their tongues to roll those r’s correctly. It’s inspiring to learn how it’s helped them build close friendships in St Remy-de-Provence, the delightful Provencal town I also love, where they spend the majority of their time.

I'm also impressed how by determinedly reading French literature and studying French newspapers and TV Keith and Val have developed a good grasp on what it is that makes French people French.

I would suggest that the answer to Keith’s latest book's title ‘Are we French yet?’ is ‘mais oui, bien sûr!'

You don’t have to be a Francophile to enjoy Keith’s books; they’re endearing because they’re about living. As Keith explains, just like us, he and Val are constantly asked: 'why do you want to spend so much of the year in Provence, what do you do when you are there, what new things have you visited?'

Whilst there is an abundance of things to still discover, that is not why either of us go there. We’re not tourists seeking to check off the next list of ‘must see’ sights, we go there to live: 'we’re just 2 people living in Provence and the business of living fills our days…..'

And that business of living is not only real but magical. And for us, just like for Keith and Val. 'Magical is the right word. Magic seems to happen to us in France.' 

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Recently someone who only had four days to spend in Provence asked me if I had to choose between a visit to Aix-en-Provence or Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, which would it be. Preferably I’d find the time for both but as stunning a city as Aix is, in June, on a first visit to Provence I think I’d choose Saint-Rémy. A happy little town, so charming and colorful and so typically Provence!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ why it charms!

It’s pretty! Meandering cobbled streets shaded under a canopy of plane trees, packed with cafes, restaurants, galleries and cute boutiques happily mingled together.

Yet steps away from the bustle there are secluded corners where fountains who happily chuckled to others over the years, Nostradamus, (who was actually born here) Van Gogh and Princess Caroline of Monaco, still gurgle contently. So many wonderful reminders of days gone by.

Come on a Wednesday, when a colorful market sprawls along its streets overflowing into its picturesque squares.

Blessed with over 300 days of sunshine this vibrant, historic Provencal town is small enough to sample in half a day. However with so much to discover both within its enfolds and close by, Saint-Rémy is a delightful base for a few days in this region of Provence.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~What to do

A great way to discover the secrets of Saint-Rémy is via one of its self guided audio. There are two available: 'Discover the town' and 'The Van Gogh Walk'. In French and English, lasting from an hour to a full day Price: €3.00, learn more here: Saint-Rémy Audio guide.

Estrine Museum and Van Gogh Interpretation Centre 8 rue estrine 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 34 72. Built in 1749, once a splendid hotel, Estrine is now a museum where The Vincent van Gogh Interpretation Center pays tribute to this incredible artist who lived in Saint-Rémy, May 8, 1889 to May 20, 1890. The museum also hosts a constant stream of exhibitions featuring the work of many other celebrated artists. Visit their website here

Saint-Rémy tourist board website has further information for other museums, chapels and sites.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where to eat

There are so many choices, many of which I have yet to sample, do tell me your discoveries, here are a few of ours:

L’Estagnol 7 Blvd Marceau 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 05 95 Price: €8 ~ €22 Delicious tapas salads and mains, Mediterranean with a fusion twist.

Chez Fanny's Place Mireille Moatti 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 90 89 Newly opened in March 2018 this quaint courtyard spot offers yummy salads and pastas Price: from €16.

Gus 31 Boulevard Victor Hugo 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 90 27 61 Delicious menu especially for seafood loversPrice €13 ~ €30. Open all year every day lunch & dinner. Closed Mondays November~March

L’Aile ou la Cuisse  5 Rue de la commune 13210 Saint Rémy de Provence Tel: 04 32 62 00 25
Price: €13 ~ €37. Wonderful family recipes in a gourmet bistro setting. Known especially for its mouthwatering pastries and deserts. Open every day April 1st to November 15th lunch & dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday from November 16th to March 31st

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ Where to stay

I've never actually stayed in Saint Rémy but there's some wonderful places, both in the town and close by including some really special luxurious gems.

Hotel and Restaurant Tourrel   Hotel Gounod

Hotel Le Vallon de Valrugues & Spa  Hotel Image  Le Château of Alpilles 5 

I'd also check what Alistair Sawday has to recommend. This Sawdays' suggestion caught my eye Appartement d'Anges, two beautiful accommodations for 2-6 people offering personalized tours and gourmet experience.

Le petit Bijou a really special place to rent from Vicki Archer, a wonderful authority on the area!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ What's nearby

Glanum Archeological Site

Route des Baux de Provence D5 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence 04 90 92 23 79 website

Part of Provence's rich Roman heritage,  just one km from Saint-Rémy, the site of Glanum was inhabited from about 500 BC. In the 2nd century BC it became a Greek town and from the 1st to the 3rd centuries, colonized by the Romans it was a resplendent Roman city with great public, civil and religious buildings. Destroyed by barbarian invasions around 260AD the survivors founded a new village that was to become Saint-Rémy. It was virtually forgotten until 1921 when excavations began to reveal its incredible past. Definitely worth a visit!

Open: 1 April to 30 September 9:30am to 6pm  1 October to 31 March (Closed on Monday)10 am to 5 pm with various holiday closures check website for details. Fees: Adults €8, reductions for children, students and groups

Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence is just 10 minutes from Saint-Rémy on route from Glanum. One of Provence’s most atmospheric perched villages, precariously hugging the craggy limestone of the Alpilles hills, with links to the biblical Wise Men and Monaco’s Grimaldi family, it’s a place where time has stood still….Read more about Les Baux here

If time is short visit both Les Baux and Saint-Rémy together, preferably on a Wednesday for Saint-Rémy's delightful market, enjoy lunch in the town. (Sadly Les Baux has disappointing choices). Leave time to include the audio visual art spectacle of Carrières de Lumières next to Les Baux, admission to which can be combined with the entrance to its' château ruins.

Carrières de Lumières

Just an 800m strole from Les Baux de Provence, each year the artistic talent of the maestros is splashed upon the towering walls and floor of this former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer at Les Baux. Set to a mystical, musical background, it is always a spellbinding spectacle. Previous years have included Chagall, Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo, this year the work of Picasso and the Spanish masters 

For more information: Carrières de Lumières  Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel: 04 90 54 37 Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer) 7 days a week from March – January  Admission: €12.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. If time permits buy the combined ticket which includes the excellent audio tour of the château ruins at Les Baux. Check their website for details.

In addition to the local wine domains and olive mills there are also the delightful small towns and villages of Les Alpilles to explore such as Eygalières and Maussane-les-Alpilles. The splendid Roman city of Arles (23km ) is full of archeological treasures, including its original amphitheater and as another home of Van Gogh it has its own Van Gogh museum and sites to further tell his story.

Enjoy your visit to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and let me know what you discover!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where it is

Nestled at the foot of Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Provence.

Marseilles Airport: 70km (60min)      Avignon: 25km (30min)       Arles: 23km (36min)

Aix en Provence: 73km (65mins)      Lourmarin: 52km (55min)

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