War; tragic and horrific.
Creating desolation, carnage and destruction.

Causing immense suffering, misery and loss,
destroying and changing lives forever.

Singapore during World War II was thought to be an impregnable fortress.
When it fell to Japan on February 15th 1942 it was probably Britain’s most humiliating defeat.

What followed were three and half years of hardship and cruelty.
No more so than at Changi .....

Entrance to Changi Museum and Chapel

A visit today to Changi Museum and Chapel is a solemn reminder of the evils of war. Most of the original gaol has been demolished, the museum and chapel remain to tell the story of what happened there after the Japanese capture of Singapore in 1942.

In 1942 Changi Gaol was a civilian prison on the Changi Peninsular, the British Army's military base in Singapore, part of which included a collection of military barracks. Once the Japanese took control these barracks were used as prisoner-of-war (POW) camps and eventually any references to anyone of these camps just became 'Changi'. Over 40,000 Allied troops were imprisoned here, mainly in the former Selarang Barracks. Most were then sent to work as slaves in Japanese occupied territories such as Sumatra, Burma, and the Burma-Thai railway. Thousands of civilians, mostly British and Australian, were imprisoned one mile away from Selarang in Changi Gaol. During the Japanese occupation in addition to the troops that were sent to Changi Gaol, over 3000 civilian men, 400 women and 66 children were incarcerated there, crammed together in terrible living conditions often tortured and beaten. The average living space per adult was 24 square feet, room barely enough to lie down. It became a living hell.

The original door way to Changi Gaol

Initially the Japanese seemed indifferent to what the prisoners did in Changi Gaol and the other POW camps. Concerts were organised along with quizzes and sporting events, although a meticulous military discipline was maintained.

Changi Gaol Artifacts

However, after Easter 1942, attitudes changed following a failed POW escape at the Selarang Camp. The Japanese demanded that everyone sign a document declaring that they would not attempt to escape. When this was refused over 15,000 POW’s were herded into a barrack square and told that they would remain there until the order was given to sign the document. When this failed a group of POW’s were shot. Despite this, no-one signed the document. Only when the Japanese refused to make much needed medicine available to the POW’s, was the order given to sign the document. It was a point of no-return for the POW’s who then became used for forced labour. The formula was simple – if you worked, you received food, if you did not, you would get no food.

Captivity

The shoes belonging to a POW who had been shot, left out to remind others not to disobey orders, rope used for torture

British POW's made small lamps using cigarette tins, collecting coconuts to make oil for the lamps.

There are many recollections from the POW's of how the local Chinese, including the elderly, would try to help them as they were marched through Singapore to work. Despite being beaten they would appear every day trying to give them morsels of food and drink.

By 1943, the 7,000 men left at Selarang Barracks were moved to Changi Gaol. The Changi Gaol had been built to hold about 600 people, with five or six to one-man cells this severe overcrowding, together with acute food and medicine shortages, meant death from malaria, dysentery and vitamin deficiencies became rife.

POW’s were made to dig tunnels and fox holes in the hills around Singapore as hideouts for the Japanese should the Allies return. Many POW’s believed they would then be killed; in fact when the Allies did recapture Singapore, the prison was simply handed over to them. After the war Changi Gaol, renamed Changi Prison, resumed its function as a civilian prison.

A piece of the original gaol wall

Stories from Changi Gaol

The Changi Quilts

The Changi quilts are a testament to the courage,  ingenuity and perseverance of the female Changi internees. The quilt making was initiated by Canadian, Ethel Mulvaney, to alleviate boredom and frustration. More importantly it was a way to communicate with the male internees, as all other communication was forbidden. Women were given six-inch squares of rice sack cloth to embroider her name. Sown together, under the pretext of a gift, the Quilts were handed over to the civilian men for the POW hospital. Knowledge of the women's well-being boosted the men's morale.

Changi Embroidery Cloths

This souvenir cloth is similar to a piece that British POW, Augusta M Cuthbe, had women internees embroider their names on.

St Luke's Chapel

In early 1942 Padre Fred Stallard, a chaplain in Roberts Hospital at Changi, obtained permission to convert a small room of Block 151 into a chapel. Built mainly be Australian prisoners this became St Luke’s Chapel.

The Chapel Altar Cloth

This 76cm2 piece of silk was used as the altar cloth in Changi Prison's St George's Chapel, during World War II. It fell into the hands of Singapore's then Chief Postmaster, Geoffrey Carl Allen. He died in England but when his wife heard about the worldwide 50th anniversary celebrations of World War II she donated it and 5 years later it was sent to Singapore when the Changi Chapel Museum was being redeveloped.

St Luke's Chapel Murals

The wall murals in St Luke's Chapel were painted by Stanley Warren who had been a commercial artist before the war. He had come to Changi Gaol hospital as a critically ill British POW and despite severe physical limitations was encouraged to paint murals on the chapel walls. Although paint was not readily available, with the aid of other prisoners, who unquestionably put themselves at risk, materials were gradually acquired. Crushed billiard cue chalk was used to produce blue. Warren began the first of the Changi Murals on 6 October 1942.

In August 1943 Robert Hospital was relocated to Selarang Barracks, and a new St Luke's Chapel was set up, the original chapel was eventually converted into a store used by both the Japanese and the RAF. The walls were painted over and the murals concealed. In 1958 an RAF serviceman detected traces of color on the walls, layers of distemper were scraped off and the murals were once again revealed but no one knew the identity of the artist. The RAF Changi Magazine, 'Tale Spin', published pictures of them in an attempt to locate the artist. At the same time a book entitled ‘Churches of Captivity in Malaya’ was found in the Far East Air Force Educational Library revealing the name of the painter. In January 1959 Stanley Warren was found, he was an arts master at Sir William Collins Secondary School in North London. He was asked to return to Singapore in the early 1960's to restore the murals.

Initially Stanley was very reluctant to return because of his horrific war time memories. However in December 1963, despite the great distress it caused him, Stanley went back. He became very dedicated to the restoration, returning to Changi again in July 1982 and May 1988, which was his final visit. He passed away in Bridport, England on 20 February 1992, his murals however remain a legacy forever.

In 1980 Changi Gaol was refurbished into a modern penal institution. By 2005 most of the original prison was demolished and a larger facility built. Today only a 180m stretch of the prison wall facing Upper Changi Road remains. The iconic main gate of the prison, two guard towers and the clock from the original clock tower have been preserved at the original site.

A visit to the Changi Museum and Chapel is distressing but very moving, a testament to the courage and determination of people bravely overcoming great adversity. It's well worth including on your itinerary whilst visiting Singapore.

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Dubai, a large, vibrant, metropolis with ribbons of traffic clogging the roads in every direction.

Palm trees and mosques, peppered in amongst the towering skyscrapers.

Opulent shopping malls complete with indoor aquariums, ice rinks, ski runs and luxury hotels.

Throughout the day the wailing of the call to pray fills the air and it’s hot, very hot.

A Dubai skyline

Looking across to the Palms at Jumeriah Beach.

A view of Atlantis at the Palms, Jumeriah Beach, where you are invited to check into another world of luxurious indulgence!

An ocean front property in Jumeriah Beach

The Burj-al-Arab Hotel, thought to be the world's most luxurious hotel.

Souk Madinat Jumeirah, Jumeriah Beach's colourful re-creation of an ancient market place, packed with stores and restaurants set along an inland water way.

Inside the Souk Madinat

Local crafts for the tourists in the Souk Madinat Jumeriah

Antique camels for sale in the Souk Madinat

Buildings of the Souk Madinat, Jumeirah, Dubai

Dubai is another world, another culture, a fascinating, western style city in the desert.

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Istanbul, mystical and wondrous, nestled on the Bosphorus in the very centre of the world.
A vibrant, exciting city where the cultures of East and West, Asia and Europe, literally collide.

Wander its narrow, cobbled streets and let the treasures of the Grand Bazaar entice you; eastern spices, silks, lanterns, pottery, carpets and of course turkish delight!

Become entranced in the Hagia Sofia, opposite the beautiful Blue Mosque where their ancient walls tell their story, where Christianity and Islam merge, where you will be held spellbound.

Stand in the Roman Basilica Cistern and step into an ancient structure that will stun you, an incredible underground wonder held together by an assorted collection of pillaged greek columns.

Be captivated by the very many marvels of Istanbul!

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia, meaning ‘Holy Wisdom’, was built by Emperor Justinian (527-565 A.D.) as a Christian Church and has been described as the 8th wonder of the world. After 916 years of Christian worship it became a mosque following the conquest of Istanbul by Fatih Sultan Mehmet in 1453. It was used as a mosque for 482 years until in 1935, under Ataturk’s orders, it opened its doors as the Hagia Sophia Museum.

Stepping on the worn marble into this incredible spectacle, I wondered about all the others who have crossed this threshold over the centuries.

The breathtaking Hagia Sophia dome dominates the centre of the building.

In the half dome of the apse is the beautiful mosaic of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus, flanked either side by the mosque's great calligraphy prophet panes.


The mosaic of the Virgin Mary probably dates from 867, when patriarch Photius inaugurated it. Over the centuries it has been damaged, the golden background is the original from the 9th century, the remainder is thought to be the result of a 14th century restoration.

The beautiful painted ceilings of the upper gallery.

This mosaic in the upper south gallery, dates back to 1261. It is considered to have been a pioneer for Byzantine art in the Renaissance period because of its soft tones and emotional realism on the faces of the figures.

This is a painting of what this mosaic originally looked like.

The Calligraphy panes as seen from the upper gallery.

These Calligraphy panes were created by the great calligrapher of the time, Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi, as part of restoration work which was completed in 1849. There are 8 of them, each are 7.5 meters in diameter, the largest in the Islamic world and are written with gilt on a dark green background made of hemp. They contain the names of Allah, Muhammad, and the four caliphs, namely Abu Bakr, Umar, Uthman, Ali as well as the grandsons of Muhammad, namely Hasan and Husayn.

A view of the Hagia Sophia domes from the the upper gallery looking across to the Blue Mosque.

The 10th century mosaic which depicts Emperor Constantine - founder of Constantinople, holding a model of the city, on the left Emperor Justinian holding a model of Hagia Sophia, presenting them to the Virgin Mary holding the Child. This mosaic is opposite the south west entry doors, considered to be the oldest known doors in the world.

The Yerebatan Cistern

Nothing prepares you for the Basilica or The Yerebatan Cistern, just opposite the Hagia Sophia. The entry building is nothing of note, however as soon as you descend the steps down into the cistern you feel that you have entered somewhere almost other worldly.

The Yerebatan Cistern was constructed by Emperor Justinianus I, in 542A.D, to provide water for the Great Palace. It was called the Yerebatan Cistern by the locals due to the brilliance among the marble columns arising from the water. The water in the cistern came from the Belgrade Forest, 19km north of the city by a series of aquaducts also built by Emperor Justinianus.

Covering a huge area of 9800m2, the cistern measures 70m by 140m, it has 336 columns erected in 12 lines of 28, spaced 490cm apart. Most of the columns are ionic and corinthian taken from greek ruins near the city, a few are doric. The cistern is surrounded by a 4m brick and water wall.

The Medusa Heads

The Medusa Heads, two Roman master pieces of sculpture, are found at the northwestern edge of the cistern where they are used as blocks under columns. It is not known where they came from, they were possibly bought from a building dating from the late Roman period. Their prescence adds to the mystery of the cistern. According to one story of Greek mythology Medusa was the only mortal sister of three Gorgona Giant sisters and possessed the power to turn people into stone. Another source says that Medusa, who was very proud of her long dark hair, black eyes and beautiful body was in love with Perseus, son of Zeus. However the goddess Athena, who was also in love with Perseus turned Medusa’s hair into a head of snakes which turned anyone that looked at her into stone. Perseus, broken hearted, cut off her head and won many wars by showing his beloved’s head to his enemies. From that time on it is said that the heads of all Byzantine swords were stylized into Medusa’s head.

The cistern was rediscovered in 1545 by Petrus Gyllius, a french scholar, who whilst visiting Constantinople heard strange stories of locals drawing up water—and even fish—from their basement. He investigated and found the gigantic subterranean cistern full of rubbish and corpses. It was repaired several times over the centuries and restored in the eras of Ahmed III (1723) then Sultan Abdulhamid II (1876-1909). In 1987 it was cleaned and opened for public viewing.

The Cistern is, quite simply, unbelievably breathtaking!

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar, a colorful warren of market stalls, is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world set under elaborately painted domed ceilings.

There are so many things temptations; turkish lanterns,

jasmine tea, one of many teas and spices,

brightly coloured embroidered boots,

turkish carpets,

and turkish delight are just a few of the choices on display!

I only had 16 hours to explore this exciting city, it was the second time I had visited and amongst other things, would have loved to have returned to the Topkapi Palace, the Chora Church, Galata Tower and taken a cruise on the Bosphorus.

I would highly recommend the hotel we stayed in, Boutique Saint Sophia Hotel, situated within minutes of the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and Grand Bazaar. A former Ottoman mansion, it was renovated in 2014 into a stylish, reasonably priced, boutique hotel with staff that could not have been more helpful, fabulous!

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We veered the car off the main road to find ourselves bumping slowly along a dusty, track leading to seemingly nowhere.

Either side of us were an abundance of fig trees, their branches hung low, heavy with what looked like plump, black minature Santa’s sacks! Olive trees were scattered amongst them intermittently, truly the fruits of the Gods!

As we lurched forward and our trail narrowed we reached a small clearing, it was obvious we needed to continue on foot. Just a few steps to our right, over broken rocks and tall grasses our expectations were not high.

Ahead were what looked like the remnants of a few tumbled ruins, nothing at all spectacular, especially in this part of the world but as we reached them and glanced up to our left what we saw rendered us all speechless!

Before us was a spectacle that no-one could have prepared us for. Yes, Turkey is the museum of the world, the unexplored museum of the world!

Magnesia

Magnesia is a mere 20 minute drive from Selcuk, like most ruins in Turkey it is well signposted, brown signs, denoting places of historical significance. Our wonderful hosts at The Sirince Terrace Houses had told us to drive by the ruins of the ancient Greek city Magnesia and follow the track by the fig and olive groves.

When we had driven as far as possible and stumbled down the small track to our right we looked to our right wondering if if what we could see in the far distance really was what we were seeing.....

A magnificent chariot stadium almost in tact, just partially covered where the earth had clearly slipped down the hillside. No sign posts, no formal entry or admission, no significant evidence of any excavation, just there, as it had been for thousands of years, silent, ancient and deserted, the best preserved ancient stadium in all of Anatolian Turkey, just incredible!

Looking back down the stadium I really could hear the thundering of the horses hooves and chariot wheels as the blood thirsty crowd cheered and yelled for victory!

Reluctantly we walked back along the sandy path, stopping countless times to glance back at this abandoned but magnificent site, blessing Omer and Charlotte for their invaluable travel insights!

Priene

Priene is a Greek Hellenistic city dating back to the 8th century B.C. The ruins seen today date back to B.C. 350, a steep climb from the car park but worth the puffing! When you are there you are alone, steeped in ancient history, left to contemplate the past

among the grave yard of the fallen columns,

the holes where they were originally joined together clearly visible.

The Temple of Athena

The construction of the Temple of Athena (the daughter of Zeus and greek goddess of wisdom and reason) was dedicated by Alexander the Great in B.C. 334 and was the genius of the architect Pytheos, it was finally completed in the 1st century A.D. It was first discovered and exposed by R.P Pullan from Britain in 1868 but what we see today was the work of slight late German excavation.
As the late afternoon sunshine glinted between the columns the atmosphere was spell binding.

The Theatre at Priene

The Theatre at Priene is one of the best preserved examples from the Hellenistic period. The stage building was a separate structure and the orchestra performed off it. There were honor seats in the front dedicated to Dionysos the God of wine and the harvest, to whom most performances were dedicated. An alter to the God of the theatre was set up in the middle row. When full it could hold up to 6500 people.

The Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods

Inscriptions on this site reveal that Egyptian Gods were worshipped here from B.C.200. Archeological findings have proved that during the 3rd century this area was previously residential. By Byzantine times, centuries later, it had become a graveyard.

The Roman Baths at Priene

Priene never grew to be a substantial size, probably because of its hill top location. It gradually declined due to its increasing distance from the sea as the land around it gradually silted up and became reclaimed. Following the Turkish invasion in the 13th century it was eventually abandoned until excavations began in the late 19th century.
Priene should not be forgotten if you are exploring this area nor should Omer and Charlotte's final tip of the day, a stunning drive through the hills,

to a superb early dinner of freshly caught fish, where we watched the sun set with the sand between our toes, on a tiny beach just 25 minutes further away.

We would never have found any of the day's treasures without Omer and Charlotte. Everything we had seen and visited felt like a story waiting to be told........

When we left the Ephesus area we drove south through beautiful undulating countryside, we were really impressed by the roads mostly very new with no traffic!

We eventually ended up in the charming fishing of Kalkan

We stayed in really gorgeous boutique hotel, The Villa Mahal, just 16 rooms scattered on the hillside with ocean front vistas,

where dangled our toes by the rocks along the Mediterranean during the day

we enjoyed candlelight suppers with scrumptious food by the water each night.

Villa Mahal's tag line is '181 steps to heaven', and heaven it was!!

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Did these people really walk where I am standing?
Cleopatra, Marc Anthony, Mary, the Mother of Jesus, John the Apostle, Saint Paul?
Did they live here, on these same lush hillsides, amidst the olive groves and fig trees?
Did they feel the same warm breeze upon their face and gaze up at the same brilliant blue sky?

History ~ others’ interpretation of the past?
Faith ~ the cause of so much debate, so much pain, so much joy.
Archeology ~ proof?

Stand among the evidence, the tumbled down ruins of lost civilizations, the broken columns.
Listen, only the shrill twitter of bird song breaks the silence.
Listen again, hear the cheering, the applause.
Feel the brush of long robes as people hurry passed.
Sense the past
Decide for yourself

Chapel of The Virgin Mary

Whatever your beliefs, the fact that these people existed, Cleopatra, Marc Anthony, Mary, the mother of Jesus, John the Apostle and St Paul is hard to dispute. Cleopatra, with her then husband Marc Anthony, spent a winter in Ephesus and there is clear evidence that both St John and the Apostle Paul were in Ephesus. Whether this chapel stands on the foundations of the home of the Mother is Jesus is open to debate.

The house where the Virgin Mary is believed to have lived, now the Chapel of The Virgin Mary, is situated in the hills just a few miles above Ephesus. It has become an important pilgrimage site for thousands. This statue is on the road which leads to the chapel.

The chapel of the Virgin Mary was built on the original foundations of what is believed to be the house of the Virgin Mary. When you stand within the silence of its ancient, stone walls there is a sense of calm and serenity, maybe because of its immense age or maybe because it truly is somewhere divine......
It is known as fact that everything below the red line on the building's exterior walls dates back to the 1st century, above it is mostly 4th and 7th century, the most recent restoration was in 1951.

Outside the chapel

Everything below the red line dates to the first century building, when The Virgin Mary lived.

In addition to what is written in the new testament of the Bible there are many references to the Virgin Mary (known as Maryam) in the Koran. Mohammed is said to have named Mary (Maryam), the mother of Jesus, 'as the best woman to ever live'.

So did the Virgin Mary live here? It is generally believed that as Jesus was dying on the cross he entrusted the care of his mother to his disciple John and so when John travelled to Ephesus in about 44A.D.Mary came with him. There is clear evidence that John was in Asia from 67A.D. where he came to avoid persecution. He was exiled for his preaching to the island of Patmos in 81A.D. but returned in 95A.D. where he wrote his gospels and letters, he died in Ephesus, aged 100.

The Church of Mary

The Church of Mary, a short walk from the main centre of Ephesus, became renowned as the site of the 3rd Ecumenical Council (Mary as Mother of God) 431A.D and was rebuilt several times in the late Byzantine period. It is also known as the 'Double Church', as it is believed one aisle was dedicated to the Virgin and the other to St. John, and the 'Council Church' because the Council of Ephesus is thought to have been held here. By the 7th century the seat of the bishop was transferred to St John's Basilica but the Church of Mary continued to be used well into the Middle Ages.

The Basilica of St John

Following the great spread of Christianity, around 300A.D. Emperor Constantine built a great Basilica over John’s tomb. Its' ruins are a few miles from Ephesus in present day Selcuk.

Entrance to the Basilica

An even more magnificent 6 domed church was later built over this by Emperor Justinian, 527-565A.D.

A model of Emperor Justinian's Basilica

Both basilica’s centered their cruciform plan over the tomb of St John with 95-foot high large cupolas covering the main aisle. If fully restored it is believed that the basilica would be the 7th largest cathedral in the world

The Tomb of St John

The ruins of the Basilica today

The Baptismal Font

The Basilica of St John has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries. When Ephesus fell into Turkish hands in 1304 it was converted into a mosque and sadly leveled during a severe earthquake in 1365. Archeologists have been working on the restoration and preservation of this site since 1921.

The Citadel of Selcuk

To the north of the Basilica of St John, a 15 towered citadel sits like a crown over the small town of Selcuk. Inside there remains a mosque, cisterns, houses, a Turkish bath and a vaulted cistern which was originally part of a Byzantine basilica. It is thought that St John wrote on the site of the citadel and that the church was built in his memory.

The Mosque of Isa Bey

This mosque, viewed here from the Basilica, is one of the most outstanding in the area, it dates to 1475. According to the inscription on the portal, Isa Bey was a scientist, the architect was Ali, son of the Damascene.

The Temple of Artemis

The Temple of Artemis, (known as the Temple of Diana by the Romans) was one of the 7th wonders of the Ancient World, about four times as large as the Parthenon in Athens, described as the largest temple and building of antiquity in Athens. It was discovered by J.T Wood, a British railroad engineer, in 1869. It was originally constructed in marble as a cult center in the 8th century B.C. Over the centuries it was destroyed and rebuilt many times, some of its architectural features being used in both the Basilica of St John and the Isa Bey Mosque. Artemis was the goddess of Ephesus. This is all that remains of the temple today, as also seen from the Basilica.

 The Selcuk Museum

In 1929 a depot was built in Selcuk to house all the finds from the area. In 1964 this became a museum which recently, in 2014, was superbly redesigned and renovated.

The Statue of Artemis

This statue, along with many others, is now in the incredible Selcuk Museum.

The bee, the symbol of Ephesus

The earliest coins in Ephesus were found in the Temple of Artemis and date from the 6th century B.C. The bee, the symbol of Ephesus and the stag the sacred animal of Artemis, were on most coins in Ephesus until the Roman Imperial period when they were replace by Emperors' heads.

Dionysus the Goddess of wine

Dionysus was one of the most important Goddesses in Ephesus

The museum in Selcuk should not be missed on any trip to Ephesus, it is a wonderful treasure trove for many of the magnificent archeological discoveries in the area.

Click here for more information on Ephesus and where to stay in the area

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The Terrace House of Ephesus are beautiful, stylish villa set on 4 levels, set around a spacious, el fresco courtyard where the sunlight dapples upon the hand laid marble floors.

The stunning and dramatic vaulted entrance hall leads to a series of spacious receptions rooms artistically decorated with hand painted frescos and murals.

Boasting all modern conveniences, running hot and cold water and the latest in floor central heating!

Oozing character and charm, guaranteed to impress from the minute you step across the threshold, you will never want to leave!

These were the properties of the wealthy Romans in Ephesus. They lived in style with truly every 'modern' convenience! During the 1980's and 1990's extensive excavations were done on the Terrace houses leading to a greater understand just how advanced this ancient civilization was!

At the beginning of the 21st century a new protective building was put over the Terrace houses.

The Terrace Houses were south west of Curetes Street, entered by a series of steps along narrow streets. The houses were several stories high, at the entrance were central open courtyards, surrounded by 4 columns, to allow in fresh air and light.

They were lavishly furnished and decorated. The wall paintings show mainly gladiators, caricatures and animals and include names of people, poems and declarations of love

This ivory frieze, from either a lintel or piece of furniture, was found in a burnt layer in Terrace House 2. It depicts a Roman victory under Emperor Trajan 98-117 A.D.

The houses were paved with marbles and mosaics featuring geometric patterns using small black and white stones.

These are the largest complex of mosaic floors from the Roman Imperial Period in Western Turkey. (1st century A.D. to 250A.D.)

The Basilica is where guests where greeted by the owner, purposely designed to give the impression of immense wealth and importance. This Basilica was built in about 160 A.D. The walls were marble and the barrel vault was decorated with frescos.

Most terrace houses had modern day luxuries such as hot and cold running water and central heating!

The latrine had benches on three sides, the excrements were drained by a channel.

The dining room was one of the most important rooms, music, believed to relax and heal the spirit was frequently played typically the flute, Kithara and lyre. Guests would sit half reclined on couches, eating at marble or bronze table which had lavishly decorated legs. This shows a typical shopping list of the time!

Local grapes, figs and pomegranates were eaten, just as today and copious amounts of excellent wine from the local vineyards.  Olive oil was also produced and used, high quality for eating lower quality for fuel in the oil lamps. The lush hills around Ephesus still growing the same crops as several thousand years ago.

During the day most men would be out working in the Agora or at the baths, the women stayed at home often occupied with textile production and the children were taught at home.

In some ways so little has changed, in others so much......

Click here for information about Ephesus and where to stay

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Close your eyes, be quite still, concentrate hard and listen carefully……. Then conjure up the sounds of Ephesus, the clattering rumble of chariot wheels passing along the marble paved street just inches from your toes. The occasional crack of a whip and startled whimper of a horse.

Snatched snippets of conversations peppered with laughter or exclamation.
Small, questioning children’s voices, complaining of the heat, pleading to go home.

The background hum of people, going about their business in Ephesus, some frantically rushing to appointments, others just out meeting friends or shopping. Pedlars trading their wares, the frenzy of commerce.

The symphony of a city, then, the Roman city of Ephesus, really not so different from now……………..

Incredulous and full of excited wonder probably best describes how it feels as you enter Ephesus to walk along the same marble street where leather sandals trod thousands of years ago.

Curetes Street in Ephesus,

This was the main street in Ephesus, known as 'Embolos' in ancient times. Paved in marble it was 210 meters in length, and lined with prestigious porticoes with shops behind them and a sewer running beneath. Maintenance of this impressive street continued well into the 6th/7th centuries A.D. 

The Celsus Library of Ephesus

At the end of Curetes Street lies the stunning Celsus Library, often thought as the landmark of Ephesus. Built A.D. 114 -117 by Tiberius Julius Aquila, as a mausoleum for his father Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, who was proconsul (governor) of the Asian province, the capital of which was Ephesus. Constructed from high quality marble, the two-storeyed facade has Corinthian columns capitals placed on the 21 meters long podium, reached by nine steps.

The 'Tetragonos Agora'

A view over the 'Agora', the Commercial Market of Ephesus, a thriving business center from 294 B.C. You can imagine the bustling activity that took place here, the essence of city life which largely remains unchanged in cities today, just without the purring, screeching 'tune' of vehicles and mechanisation.

Across the passages of time only the weather is a constant, the unrelenting heat making you yearn for shade and a cooling fresh breeze, grateful that the stench of human kind and animals no longer pollutes the still and heavy air.

The Roman Latrina

The Romans actually did much to cope with sanitation, they were centuries a head of their time and in Ephesus built underground sewer systems and the Latrina, first century A.D. public toilets. The toilets were arranged side by side but with no partition between them! In the middle was a square pool, the floor was even paved with mosaics.

The Medical Centre ruins

In ancient times temples were used to gather the ill. Soranus, Rufus and Alexandros were famous Ephesian doctors, their written works being of great importance to medical history. During the Roman period, Ephesus was the home to a very large medical school. Bronze lancets used for bloodletting have been found here, also surgeon’s drills, needles, spatulas, curettes, hooks  and mortars & pestles for mixing medicines; all now on display in the Ephesus Museum in Selcuk.

The Nike Swoosh

Outside the medical area is the carving of the Greek winged goddess of victory, Nice (pronounced Nee-key), who sat at the side of Zeus, the ruler of the Olympic pantheon, in Olympus. She flew around battle fields or peaceful competitions awarding the victors with a wreaths of laurel leaves, palm leaves, or sashes. There is a fold in her dress just like the logo of Nike, did the sports company, choose a perfect brand name?!

As you gaze back over the Agora towards the Celsus Library before you lies the remnants of a grand and powerful city, once home to over 300 000 people, the bygone era of a mighty, imperial empire which stretched across the globe.

Hadrian's Temple

These were times of immense wealth and innovation enshrined in impressive architecture, structures, like the Celsus Library and Hadrian's Temple, built to honor Emperor Hadrian A.D. 117-138.

The Nymphaeum Traiani

This 9.5m tall fountain building was donated by Tiberius Claudius Aristion A.D. 102 -114. in honour of Artemis of Ephesus and Emperor Trajan. A two story facade surrounded the fountain on 3 sides, the statue of Trajan with a globe at his feet, stood over the water outlet in the middle.

Despite lacking 21st century knowledge and mechanization and albeit at the cruel expense and back breaking toil of thousands of slaves, intelligent solutions were found, to the still pertinent, needs of humanity; the supply of fresh water, sanitation, heat and nourishment.

The Marble street of Ephesus

At the height of Ephesus' power this was the impressive marble paved route linking the lower commercial part of the city, near the harbour, to the political and residential area.

The Footprint

Perfectly preserved along the marble road, pointing the way to the 'house of pleasure'.

Despite our digital age when scientific discovery continues to exceed expectations, I found myself standing in total awe, quite baffled at the skill and capabilities of a civilization who incredible knowledge mostly disappeared, buried for nearly two thousand years among their spectacular broken columns and statues.

I fervently wished that the magical dust of a Hollywood movie could wind back the clock allowing me to step into a biblical epic like ‘Ben Hur’. Standing in the dramatic Great Theatre I could almost hear the blood thirsty cheers from the ecstatic crowds and shouts as the gladiators battled for their lives.

The Great Theatre

Able to accommodate over 25, 000 people, the Great Theatre dates to the 3rd-1st century B.C. During Roman times it was extensively rebuilt A.D. 81-117. In addition to theatre performances, assemblies took place here and of course gladiatorial contests. Until nearly 25 years ago it was still the site for modern day concerts, hosting performers like Elton John, Diana Ross and the Three Tenors, how I wish I had known!

Underneath the theatre one could almost smell the fear of those that stood here in the dark, centuries earlier, waiting to 'perform' and probably face their demise.

The Arcadiane

This 500m long, 11m wide street, the Arcadiane, connected the harbor to the Great Theatre. What we walk along today dates from Emperor Arcadius' rule (A.D. 395-408). It was originally constructed during the Hellenistic period (3rd- 1st century B.C.) when much of Ephesus was designed.

The Ephesus Terrace Houses

Back by the Celsus Library the wonders of the more recently excavated Roman Terrace houses took our breath away. A separate admission but so worth it! Mostly excavated in the 1980's and 1990', at the beginning of the 21st century a new protective building was erected over them. Originally the homes of wealthy Romans, they are a magnificent insight into ancient life, I will be writing more about them next.....

Reluctantly I turned away from the ruins of this former glorious city of Ephesus,  once the cradle of civilization in Asia Minor, now in present day Turkey, a historian’s treasure trove, truly the museum of the world, just waiting to be explored.

Historical Discovery

Ephesus was built in the 10th Century B.C. It’s excavation was first begun by the British from 1869 -1895.

The Austrian Archaeological Institute began their excavations in 1895, their work continues today under Turkish government ownership. Since 1906 most treasures found are taken to and displayed at The Ephesus Museum in Selcuk. Although about only 10% of the city has been excavated, the current focus is not on the recovery of more ruins but on protection, restoration and research. Unbelievably this former jewel of Ancient Asia was only added to the World UNESCO’s World Heritage list on July 5th 2015.

Visiting Ephesus

Ephesus is visited by more than 2 million people each year. It is easily accessible from Izmir airport, less than an hour away. Nearby (2.5km) are the ruins of the Church of St Mary and in Selcuk, the Basilica of St John Selcuk and Ephesus Museum, where the statues and relics of Ephesus are displayed.

Sirince

We stayed in the charming hillside, 1st century A.D. village of Sirince, a 10 minute picturesque drive through fruit trees and olive groves, aptly named 'Sirince'  meaning 'the pretty'. It was simple but delightful.

Restaurants serving delicious local food and a small souk, which you actually drive right through to leave the village!

Pretty local pottery to satisfy the tourists' desire for local souvenirs.

As we strolled Sirince’s uneven, cobbled streets, amongst ancient, tumbled down buildings we were surrounded by the local bustle, people greeting and welcoming us, enticing us to stop and look at their pottery, silks and spices and every so often the call to prayer filled the air.

Accommodation: The Sirince Terrace Houses

We stayed in The Sirince Terrace Houses

We could not have wished for more charming hosts; Omer and Charlotte (who is English). There are five, traditionally furnished, small houses to relax in, to soak up the ambience and admire the beautiful hillside views from your terrace.

Rustic and unassuming with generous hospitality, Omer and Charlotte's invaluable advice made our trip magical! Without them we would not have realized that the best way to enter the historical site of Ephesus from the car park is by horse and cart.

We would never discovered the largely unknown Roman chariot stadium of Magnesia, hidden up a bumpy lane through the fig trees which when you arrived made you gasp in utter astonishment and wonder.

Nor would we have stood amongst the stunning ancient Greek ruins of Priene gazing up in wonder at the Columns of the Temple of Athena.

and then later eaten delicious freshly caught fish by the gently lapping sea with the sand between our toes.

What struck us most, everywhere we visited in Turkey was the warmth and friendliness of the people, and the beauty of the countryside. A rolling sometimes very dramatic hillside landscape, lush and green, abundant with olive trees (Turkey is one of the largest olive growing countries in the world.). A visit to this enchanting country should be on everyone’s bucket list........

For more information of how to get to Ephesus and where to stay CLICK HERE

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The gift of travel is precious and illuminating, exposing us to things we have never encountered before. It can be thought provoking and evocative, a historical discovery, making you ponder upon a life lived before or a life lived elsewhere. Intriguing and fascinating, it's why we flock to museums, delve into literature, become lost in a movie, all of which provide glimpses of what was and what is somewhere else. Each of our stories is a rich tapestry of threads and inter-woven strands. Many have contemplated; ‘What would it have been like if I had lived then or there?' Maybe its why some travel, to unravel the mysteries of living elsewhere, to be yourself on a totally different stage in the theatre of life.

Circumstances play their role in who we are and who we become. Even though the game of life begins with the cards we've been dealt, we have some choice about what happens next. Some never go on to shuffle the deck, never have the opportunity or maybe the will. Others look to deal new hands, to meet new players. Then there are those of us who throw all the cards into the air letting them flutter back through our fingers, to gather up and play in another setting with completely different people.

As I write this I am far from home, in a gleaming high-rise, surrounded by all the modern conveniences of the 21^st century. The efficient hum of air-conditioning keeping me comfortable, my laptop keeping me company, ice and cold water are not luxuries, with a flick of a button I could be watching BBC or CNN news or demanding a recent movie from a new 56 inch flat screen TV. There are avenues of shops and restaurants to exercise my credit cards, I am in a large contemporary metropolis which could be anywhere. Maybe for those who fly in for a few days’ business or stop over en-route to somewhere else that might be true. But I am not 'anywhere', I am in a spot within Southeast Asia that is totally unique, Singapore, what, I ponder would it be like to live here?

My view of Singapore's sleek sky scrapers

Singapore still wears the petticoats of its Colonial British past. People drive on the right, the electrical outlets and plugs are British, English is the predominant language and there are gracious 19^th century Colonial buildings and treasures to admire and investigate. Whilst exploring one hears European, American and Australasian voices, people from a thriving expatriate community, largely derived from global corporate postings. However the pre-dominant chatter is from people scattered across Asia. Mostly more delicately built, slightly shorter, dark haired and dark eyed; Singaporeans who proudly trace their heritage from across the neighbouring continents, and a rich medley of others.

Colonial Buildings of The National Museum of Singapore

Streets are busy, pavements packed with bustling crowds, roads with more taxis than cars. Shrill police whistles control the few cross walks, restricted in number as people are herded like sheep down underpasses, grateful to enter the cooler underground world of retail therapy, which occupies every spare square footage. Corridor after corridor of expensive, shiny, high-end shops, leads one to assume that this is a wealthy population with designer tastes, more than able to sustain such business.

Giant chinese lanterns at Marina Bay Sands Center, Singapore

Magnificent hotels compete with each other for business, boasting luxurious accommodation, spas and restaurants tempting both visitors and residents.
 Imposing buildings house Expatriate Clubs. Within their opulent confines one can imagine a bygone era when wealthy ladies, sweltering in their prim Victorian lace, sipped tea whilst being fanned by giant palm fronds, shockingly believing that ‘the boy enjoys doing this as it keeps his native mind occupied.’ Such frightening attitudes thankfully buried, the starched lace long forgotten, parents now mingle to watch their children swim, or to work out in well equipped gyms or just to meet with others from home ‘in the same boat’ as them. Days out are spent trailing the museums, golf resorts, amusements parks, bike and nature trails although always with consideration to the outside temperatures.

Time has altered many things. The days of servants replaced by ‘staff’ for the very wealthy. Maids are still employed, as people from less developed, poorer countries close by, flock here in search of work. Often more subservient, living in tougher circumstances without air conditioning, many survive on very little, sending money to extended families back home. The overall mantle of the poor, that of extreme poverty, crime, exploitation, malnutrition and disease, has largely been eradicated, perhaps more effectively in Singapore than in many western societies. However, away from the pristine city center very different, simpler lives are being lived. Many ethnic groups congregate in small communities such as ‘Little India’ and ‘China Town’, where a wide array of regional products, food, spices and silks are available. It is possible to sample local mouthwatering delicacies, to savour their flavours and aromas albeit it in less than salubrious surroundings. A sense of the past wafts over you from places and cultures not as touched by the hand of ‘progress’.

 In Singapore only the climate remains totally unaltered. Nestled at the southern tip of Malaysia, just 85 miles north of the equator, the heat and humidity are unrelenting. From which, until fairly recently, there was little escape. It slows you down and exhausts you, it’s uncomfortable and harsh. Yet construction workers, gardeners and a whole army of people still survive and cope in their searing outside ‘offices’. Many have no air-conditioning to retreat home to but life is more palatable for them than for their parents or grandparents.  Tall, sleek apartments accommodate nearly 5.5 million people in this tiny island state of about 272 square miles. Few, but the very wealthy can afford houses, most live in 'lego like' skyscrapers many, although small, are priced in the millions.
 Exorbitant taxes on car sales together with an efficient transport system keep the number of vehicles to a minimum. As you stroll through the streets listening to the blare of car horns, drills and general construction noise in this ever swelling metropolis you are constantly reminded of your proximity to the tropics. The air is never crisp; there is always the smell of heat and concrete, faintly peppered with slowly simmering food. The skies change rapidly from a milky blue to a haze like grey, puffed up with fluffy clouds suggesting a distant threat of precipitation. When it rains it is a ferocious downpour drenching the thirsty ground and those unfortunate enough to still be outside. Small wonder that the vegetation is so lush and green, freshened from Mother Nature’s daily soaking.

The Singapore Botanical Gardens

In only a few places can one escape the city, like the serene and stunning Botanical Gardens where one is immediately surrounded by the beauty of the local fauna and foliage.

Huge natural umbrellas made from the branches of native trees shelter you on vast sprawling lawns.

The air is fragrant from the perfume of orchids and exotic flowers.


Bird song fills your ears; it is if you have travelled somewhere else very far away.

It reminds you that you have done just that and that living here offers a whole exciting region to explore close by, Malaysia, Thailand, China and Indonesia. A reason in itself to be here, even if just for a while.

View of The Straits, Singapore

Living here is certainly different, no garden to relax in, no convenient car to zip around in. One thinks twice about the size of the grocery shop which has to be carried by hand and taxi or public transport. There is an element of claustrophobia. Yet to live in such a diverse, sophisticated, melting pot of cultures and still be pampered by 21st innovation, to be able to introduce oneself to the traditions and beauty of Southeast Asia, what an enriching opportunity it would be.

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Early history of Singapore up to 1819

The early history  of Singapore refers to the time before the British settled when it was known by several names dating back to the 2nd century. Over the years the island was controlled by different Southeast Asian kingdoms, from the 16th century it was ruled by The Sultanate of Johor.

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles arrives in Singapura - 1819 Singapore Treaty

Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles
The British Statesman, Sir Thomas Raffles (6 July 1781 – 5 July 1826) landed in Singapore, then called Singapura, from Penang on 28 January 1819 with Major William Farquhar. On February 6^th 1819 a treaty was agreed with Sultan Hussein, Shah of Johor, giving exclusivity of trade and British protection to the region.
Fort Canning
The British flag was planted troops, dispatched and instructions left for a fort to be built at Fort Canning Hill.
Control of the Island was then transferred to the British East India Company, based in Calcutta, India. Farquhar was officially named the Resident of Singapore by Raffles. On 7 February 1819, Raffles departed leaving Farquhar in charge of the infant settlement.

When Raffles returned that year he established schools and churches for local people and western settlers. He permitted religious freedom to the local muslims, Christian schools were established by missionaries. A European town quickly developed and Singapore grew at an exponential rate. There were soon over six thousand residents from many different origins and  trade boomed.
Farquhar's contribution to Singapore's settlement included the commissioning of 477 natural history drawings from Melaka which he bought to Singapore and which today remain an incredible record of the fauna and wildlife of the region.
However Farquhar proved to be an inept leader and was asked to leave but refused. Raffles continued with plans to develop the city drawing up the Jackson Plan, with the colony's engineer, Phillip Jackson. Following more disputes with Farquhar, Raffles took control and in 1823, drafted Singapore's first constitution. Laws regarding freedom of trade and a land registration system were instituted. A police force and magistracy were set up on British principles. Gaming and slavery were outlawed. A specific regulation in the constitution called for the multiethnic population of Singapore to remain as is, and that no crimes should be based on race. Raffles had turned the trading post into a proper city with some semblance of order.
Finally Farquhar was removed and John Crawfurd, became the Resident of Singapore. Raffles' influence continued, he helped to found a Malay college in Singapore that heavily involved his observations of his years in Southeast Asia and the importance of both the local and the European languages. On 9 July 1823 he returned to England, to his other great interests – botany and zoology. In 1825 he founded and was the first president of the Zoological Society of London and the London Zoo. He returned to Singapore one final time on 22 August 1824. He died in London, a day before his forty-fifth birthday, on 5 July 1826. His memory lives on in Singapore, the famous Raffles Hotel and roads, schools, plazas and stations named after him. His statue stands proudly in the city center at the place where it is believed he first landed in 1819, Boat Quay now the centre of Singapore's financial district.

Singapore 1830-1867

From 1830 to 1867 Singapore remained a subdivision of the Straits Settlements together with Penang and Malacca governed by the Presidency of Bengal in British India. 

The Boston Bell - given by the 1st American Consul's wife Maria Balestier. The first American consul, Joseph Balestier arrived in Singapore in 1837. His wife, Maria was the daughter of the patriot, Paul Revere from Boston. Maria had this bell cast in Boston's Revere Foundry which she had presented to the first church of St Andrew in Singapore on the condition it be rung each night to sound the curfew at 8pm, reminding the sailors to return to their ships and to local townspeople to be aware of robberies and assaults after dark.

An opium victim in Singapore & general poverty

Singapore's Chinese Secret Societies 

Despite Singapore's growing importance it was still poorly funded and badly governed. In 1850 there were only twelve police officers to keep order in a city of nearly 60,000. Few had access to public health services and disease was rife, especially in overcrowded working-class areas where malnutrition and opium smoking were prominent. Prostitution and gambling, were widespread and Chinese criminal secret societies extremely powerful.

Singapore 1867-1946

Wealthy British Ladies  In 1867, Singapore, still part of the Straits Settlement, became a Crown Colony, overseen by the Colonial Office in London. Many of Singapore’s social problems were then addressed; Chinese women were protected from forced prostitution and secret societies were banned although with limited success, as they continued well into the 20th century. Singapore remained a place of great contrasts, wealthy Colonials lived a life of indulgence surrounded by privilege and looked after by servants from the local population. However  amongst the poor there remained an acute housing shortage and poor health and living standards.
By 1880, over 1.5 million tons of goods were passing through Singapore each year by steam ship. Trade flourished under no taxation and little restriction. Many merchant houses were established mainly by European trading firms, but also by Jewish, Chinese, Arab, Armenian, American and Indian merchants.

Singapore in the late 19th century

A World War II Poster

After the First World War the British build a naval base in Singapore, as a deterrent to an increasingly ambitious Japanese Empire. When completed in 1939, it had the world’s largest dry dock, the third-largest floating dock and enough fuel tanks to support the British navy for six months. Unfortunately, it was a base without a fleet and shortly after World War II broke out in 1939, on 1 February 1942 British rule was suspended with the Japanese invasion.
When British troops returned in September 1945, thousands of Singaporeans lined the streets to cheer them. However the British failure to defend Singapore had created a cry for independence. Much of the infrastructure had been destroyed, including electricity and water supplies, telephone services, and the port harbour facilities. There were food shortages and in addition disease and crimes were rampant.

Singapore, a separate Crown Colony

On 1 April 1946, Singapore became a separate Crown Colony with a civil administration headed by a Governor ending its relationship with the Straits Settlement. Despite continued unrest and unemployment, by 1947 the economy began to recover, facilitated by the growing demand for tin and rubber around the world. British governors ruled Singapore until 1959 when Singapore gained self-governance and Lee Kuan Yew became the first Prime Minister. In 1963, Singapore shed its colonial rule to become an autonomous state in Malaysia believing thats where it's future laid.

Singapore, an independent nation

On 9 August 1965 Singapore left Malaysia to become fully independent. Lee Kuan Yew's, administration (1959- 1990) made incredible progress to resolve mass unemployment and housing shortages.
The country's economic infrastructure was developed  so that Singapore evolved from a developing country to first world status by the end of the 20th century.
Singapore today is one of the world's most prosperous countries, with strong international trading links. Its' port is one of the world's busiest and it boasts a per capita GDP above that of the leading nations of Western Europe.

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Singapore, a sophisticated, dazzling metropolis in South East Asia; a cultural melting pot nestled at the tip of Malaysia. Its’ strategic position makes it one of the world’s busiest and most successful ports. Singapore’s location, thriving economy and wealth has attracted many international corporations to choose it as their Asia Pacific base. Consequently Singapore is a chic and dynamic blend of cultures and customs. There is much evidence of it's rich and vibrant history from the days when Sir Thomas Raffles made it a British Protectorate on February 6^th 1819 to the dark period during World War II when it was occupied by the Japanese, to its full independence in 1965. The story of Singapore is fascinating and compelling and its rapid emergence as a world class player in a highly competitive, ever changing global 21^st century market place, quite remarkable.

Singapore, modern and gleaming with its sleek skyscrapers

A place of contrasting areas ~ the more humble streets of Little India, brightly bedecked in late October for the annual Festival of Diwali.

The stunning 21st architecture of the Marina Bay Sands Resort

The 'flower' of the Arts and Science Museum

Contrasting with its Colonial past of The Raffles Hotel, named after Sir Thomas Raffles ~ 'the Father of Singapore'

The 19th century Bridge over the Singapore River

Singapore's prestigious symbol, the Merlion, its name combining the 'mer' - the sea, when Singapore was a fishing village known as Temasek and the lion representing Singapore's original name Singapura, ~ the lion city.

The original quay, Clarke Quay, now dwarfed by its glistening neighbours as river cruises amble by packed with curious tourists.

City scapes are left behind in the tranquil beauty of the Singapore Botanical Gardens.

Like any city there are many choices to dine, from beautifully prepared Thai food at the sumptious Jim Thompson in Dempsey Village

to equally delicious food at Komala Vilas in Little India.


The weather in Singapore can change in a moment as a sudden monsoon like deluge engulfs the city in heavy tropical rain, an almost daily event.

before and after a storm!

Singapore, a place of contrasts in architecture, culture, customs, dinind and weather ~ a place not to be missed!

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