I have strolled through the beautiful Carmel Mission many times but when I visited it recently I felt as if I’d stepped through a portal and arrived in Europe. Maybe the sense of familiarity and the past was so profound because I’ve wandered the cloisters of so many ancient churches and cathedrals in Europe, particularly in France and England. But in this historic building, on a sun-drenched, spring morning with the sky wearing her best cornflower blue bonnet, the lavender blooming and the air perfumed with flowers it felt that I was no longer in Carmel, California but 5000 miles away, basking in the peaceful serenity of a place of worship, somewhere in a small European village, maybe even in Provence.

My time at the mission inspired to discover its' story. All ten year old children in California study Mission history but neither of our children attended 4th grade and I’m embarrassed to admit that until now all I knew was that the missions were established as part the colonization of California by Spanish priests and one in particular, Father Junípero Serra. I also have a personal reason to learn more. As many of you know, we’re building a house in Carmel, it's located on Serra Avenue and steps away is a memorial and statue of this esteemed man, but who was he?

Junípero Serra Memorial, Serra Avenue, Carmel

Father Junípero Serra

Junípero Serra was born Miguel José Serra Ferrer on November 24, 1713 in Petra, on the Spanish Balearic island of Mallorca. He was the son of peasant farmers, the 3rd of 5 children. At the age of 16, as a close follower of St. Francis of Assisi, Miguel entered the Franciscan friary and took the name Junípero. Before his ordination he spent 17 years an academic, earning his a doctorate in 1744 as a Professor of Philosophy and was regarded as a bright, articulate scholar, speaker and writer.

The statue of Father Junípero Serra in the Carmel Mission garden

In 1749, Father Junípero Serra, aged 36, responded to a call for Franciscan missionaries to the New World, he left Mallorca and after a long and difficult voyage, on December 8, 1749 he arrived at the port of Vera Cruz, Mexico. From there he walked to Mexico City, a grueling 24 day journey during which he injured his leg, an affliction that made walking difficult for him for the rest of his life. He spent the next 17 years preaching to the indigenous people of Mexico, for nine years in the rugged, mountainous Sierra Gorda region of North-Central Mexico and the following 8 years in coastal villages and mining camps.

In 1767, when King Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuits from all Spanish territories, the 14 Jesuit missions in Baja California were suddenly left unstaffed. The Franciscans were asked to take them over and Father Junípero Serra was appointed the new Superior of the region. In 1768, Jose de Gálvez, the Spanish inspector-general decided to establish presidios (military garrisons) and missions in Alta California, (present day California) as a deterrent against Russian and British rivals. The following year Father Serra asked to join an expedition to establish missions in San Diego, the Monterey Bay area, and the Santa Barbara Channel area. After another fraught journey, on June 27, 1769 Father Serra reached San Diego where he founded the first mission. In April 1770 he founded the Presidio  (military base) and 2nd mission in Monterey moving it in 1771 to its current location beside the Carmel River where it became known as The Carmel Mission (also known as San Carlos Borromeo) and became the headquarters of all mission operations in Alta California.

The location of the Carmel Mission Cross, put here by Father Junípero Serra in August 1771

There is evidence of human habitation in California dating back to over 15,000 years. When Father Serra arrived in Carmel he found only 500 people living there, the Rumsen people, spread out across 5 villages, some year round some seasonal. Showing nothing but kindness and respect, Father Serra reached out to these people to teach them about his Christian faith.

Original stone church walls and bell tower, at the Carmel Mission quarried from the Santa Lucia Mountains

From the Carmel Mission Father Serra oversaw the planning, construction, and staffing of a total of nine missions: San Diego de Alcalá (1769), San Carlos Borromeo (Carmel) (1770), San Antonio de Padua (1771), San Gabriel Arcángel (1771), San Luis Obispo de Tolosa (1772), San Francisco de Asis (1776), San Juan Capistrano (1776), Santa Clara de Asis (1777), and San Buenaventura (1782). He was also present at the founding of the Presidio of Santa Barbara (1782). It is estimated he travelled about 6000 miles on foot to supervise mission work and to confer the sacrament of Confirmation.

Founding of the Missions

The missions were all established near Native American settlements next to fertile agricultural land and a reliable water source. There were careful negotiations with the local Indians whose support was crucial, without it a newly built mission could be destroyed. These people were enticed to join the missions by the promise of a stable food supply and the offer of protection. If they joined, they were then expected to abide by Spanish law.

Cloisters at The Carmel Mission

Initially the Indians lived in traditional conical-shaped houses made of tree branches. They then built permanent houses made of adobe bricks close to the mission church. They were allowed to travel outside the mission to visit kin, to hunt or for trade and military purposes. Each mission was staffed by 1 or 2 Franciscan priests with Native American supervisors and with 5-7 soldiers who acted as guards and a police force. At the height of the mission period, as many as 1,500 native people lived under the jurisdiction of a mission. Over 80 different languages were spoken many of which were not understood by each tribe. To overcome the difficulties this created the missionaries composed short books about the Christian faith in native languages, younger people were taught Spanish and others learned it through their dealings with soldiers and settlers. To prevent conflict between rival Indian tribes the Padres encouraged marriage between the tribes.

Daily life in the Missions

The missions were all working farms. Cattle were raised for food and to trade hides and a variety of agricultural goods were produced, wheat, fruits, vegetables, grapes for wine and olives for oil.

Traditionally the local Indians wore little clothing. Women wore just skirts made of animal skin or woven plants and apart from ceremonial dances or special occasions men were normally naked. To the Padres, nakedness was a sign of poverty, so all who entered the mission were given a long sleeved shirt called a cotón, and a blanket, both were made of wool. Women received a woolen petticoat and men a breechclout to cover their groin area. A new set of garments was handed out annually.

Everyone had a role to play at the mission working about five hours a day during autumn and winter and up to seven hours a day during spring and summer. Sundays were for rest and religious services, in addition to special Catholic feast days which could be as many as 92 a year.

Inside the Carmel Mission Basilica

Each day began with prayers and mass, followed by breakfast, normally a corn soup called atole, still popular in Mexico today. At midday everyone would gather for prayers and lunch, normally boiled wheat, corn, peas, beans, vegetables and fruit.

In the Carmel Mission kitchenThis was followed by a nap or siesta, as was the Spanish tradition. Work then resumed until sunset when everyone gathered again for prayers and supper which would be similar to breakfast but often with beef which was widely eaten. Meals would be taken communally or in families' homes.

The Mission Kitchen at the Carmel Mission

In addition to traditional farming, specialized workers made soap, tanned leather, wove or were blacksmiths. Men were often vaquers (cowboys), or shepherds, cobblers, masons, carpenters, blacksmiths, tanners and farmhands. Women attended to washing, sewing or grinding wheat. Most work was done on a quota system, once their quota was met, the people were allowed free time.

Farm equipment used at the Carmel Mission

Indian men also often served on military expeditions and helped protect the missions. The Catholic Fathers kept records about the number of people they administered the sacraments to which sadly reveal a high mortality rate. This was often because of exposure to diseases carried by Spanish and Mexican soldiers and settlers who visited the missions in addition to the primitive nature of local medicine and lack of doctors.

The Grand Sala at the Carmel Mission where guests were entertained, the terra cotta flooring and furnishings are original

Father Serra fought the Spanish authorities for control over the missions urging them to establish an overland route to Alta California, which led to Juan Bautista de Anza establishing settlements at San Francisco in 1776 and at Los Angeles in 1781. As the number of missions grew so did Father Serra’s own political power because in addition to their religious role the missions also served political and economic purposes. The number of civilian colonists with their Indian populations kept the region within Spain’s political orbit and economically they produced all the colony’s cattle and grain.

A Padre's bedroom at the Carmel Mission

During the remaining 3 years of his life, Father Junípero Serra visited the missions from San Diego to San Francisco, travelling more than 600 miles where he confirmed all who had been baptized. During his 14 years at the California Missions Father Junípero Serra confirmed 5,309 people, he founded 9 of the total 21 missions which were eventually established along the 700 mile route from San Diego to Sonoma along the El Camino Real, (The Royal Road) named in honor of the Spanish monarchy which financed the expeditions into California in their quest for empire.

Father Junípero Serra's cell at the Carmel Mission where he died

On August 28, 1784, at the age of 70 Father Junípero Serra died at The Carmel Mission. He was buried there the next day under the sanctuary floor. It was 35 years to the day that he left Cadiz, Spain for the missions of the New World.

The remaining 12 California missions were founded after Father Serra's death. Gradually some of the Indians abandoned the missions especially after 1810 when the Spanish government stopped supplying the presidios and ordered the missions to do so instead. This greatly increased the Indians’ work load which created great resentment. The missions however were never meant to be permanent institutions. The Spanish authorities felt the Indians should leave after ten years although the missionaries believed this was not enough time for indigenous people to adapt to Hispanic ways. Nevertheless, once Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821, by the mid-1830s the Franciscans had been replaced with civilian administrators and the process of secularization begun. The new administrators were unpopular with the Indians, most of the mission land was sold or distributed to the families of local ranchers or to the administrators themselves. Most Indians did not receive a land grant, and were forced to earn a living elsewhere.

The Ava Maria bell

The Ava Maria bell at the Carmel Mission was cast in Mexico in 1807 & installed in the Mission in 1820. It was removed for safe keeping by local Indians when the Mission was secularized in 1834 & was not restored to the Mission until 1925. It eventually cracked but an exact duplicate was cast in Holland in 2010. Today it hangs in its original setting on the south side of the bell tower. The wall visible here was erected in 2011 to celebrate the 300th anniversary of Father Junípero Serra's birth in 1713, it was part of a campaign to preserve the historical buildings of the Carmel Mission.

Father Junípero Serra was canonized as a Saint of the Catholic Church by His Holiness Pope Francis during his official visit to the United States on September 23, 2015. In His address His Holiness Pope Francis said:

“ Junípero Serra left his native land and its way of life. He was excited about blazing trails, going forth to meet many people, learning and valuing their particular customs and ways of life. He learned how to bring to birth and nurture God’s life in the faces of everyone he met; he made them his brothers and sisters. Junípero sought to defend the dignity of the native community, to protect it from those who had mistreated and abused it.”

On September 17 2017, His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited The Carmel Mission. The plaque commemorating his visit lays in the Bethlehem Chapel at the Mission where his Holiness spent time during his visit in personal prayer.

In His address about Father Junípero Serra, His Holiness Pope Francis said:

"and much to be envied are those who can give their lives for something greater than themselves in loving service to others...."

Whatever one's faith or beliefs, these profound words about Father Junípero Serrano beautifully and distinctly describe this humble man who gave his all for what he believed in.

Today the Carmel Mission is an active parish. You can learn more here.

If you'd like to visit, both the Basilica and Museum are open to the public:

Monday & Tuesday, CLOSED
Wednesday & Thursday 10:00 – 4:00 pm
Friday & Saturday 10:00 – 5:00 pm
Sunday 11:30 – 5:00 pm

Admission Rates
Adults: $13      Seniors (62+): $10      Youths (7-17): $7      Child (6 and under): FREE

The post The story of Father Junípero Serra and the Carmel Mission appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

By day 19 of our American Road trip we'd visited seven states, marveled at the beauty of Deer Valley, and the breathtaking wonders of The Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Montana, Glacier, (well almost!), The Columbia River Gorge and the Willamette Valley. We'd stood on the precipice of canyons which tumbled thousands of feet below us and mountains that soared into the clouds, we'd watched the earth beside us hiss and explode and gazed in awe the majesty of nature. We'd floated and fished one of the most renowned flying fishing rivers in North America, discovered the fascinating history of what was once one of the richest cities in the U.S.A. and delved down into the bowels of the earth to understand from where that wealth was derived. We'd drank wine from premiere vineyards, visited airplanes in the middle of the vines and done all of this in our small, but powerful, two-seater classic piece of German engineering.

We had one more place to visit and a final night stop left before our incredible journey was over.

We left McMinnville and south of Eugene climbed up through the forests of Oregon. We even stumbled upon a pub for lunch, which must have known we were coming, serving drinks from British dimple glasses.

We were on route to the final destination on our list, after the places we'd already visited it seemed unlikely that we could be impressed any further.

The skies were draped in a cloak of cornflower blue and good fortune was traveling with us, the northern entrance, (the direction we were approaching from), to the last national park we were visiting had just opened, that day.

We wound our way through the snow banked roads which became deeper the higher we climbed, explaining why some of the routes through the park were still closed. We followed the signs into the car park and left the car surrounded by mountain scenery. Beautiful? Yes, but jaw dropping? No, and beside us was this huge, rather desolate bank of rock where a few people were standing with their backs to us seemingly transfixed by whatever it was they could see from the top. So up we scrambled........

And there it was...................... Crater Lake

Impressive? Breathtaking? Stunning? Unbelievable? Unexpected? Of course we'd seen photos, yes we had thought it would be one of these adjectives but it was all of them and more, absolutely sensational, yet another miracle of nature.

I took lots and lots of photos and transfixed, I didn't want to leave but more vistas were waiting further round the lake.

Crater Lake ~ a volcano within a volcano

So how did this lake get here? Like many of the other natural phenomena we'd visited, Crater Lake owes its existence to extensive volcanic activity. 7700 years ago a massive eruption of what was Mt Mazama created an enormous, deep basin. Smaller eruptions over the following three to four hundred years sealed the basin's floor which eventually became filled with rain and snow melt to create Crater Lake.

Discovery

Native Americans were the first to view the breaking beauty of Crater Lake. During the 1880's it was discovered and rediscovered several times until, in 1869, an exploring party named it Crater Lake.

We were able to drive most of the rim. Here we were looking back at the ridge we'd climbed up for our first views.

It's almost impossible for the camera lens not to capture the lake's wonder, it's everywhere you look.

Crater Lake, the sparkling jewel of Oregon, should not to be missed if you're in this part of the world. We finally tore ourselves away making our way back down through the forest. But, on the south side of the park, memorized yet again, we had to stop.

A Valley of fossilized steam

I read from the information boards how a specific series of events had allowed nature to sculpt the rocky spires of this valley. During the cataclysmic eruptions of Mt Mazama, a glowing avalanche of gas-rich pumice flowed down its slopes.

As steam escaped to the surface of the flow, through the naturally created vents, tremendous heat and minerals from this steam welded itself to the sides of the vents. Over thousands of years erosion carved away the softer ash and pumice to expose these mysterious formations.

It was just over an hour to our last night stop of the journey, Klamath Falls. Just before we arrived the car clocked 3000 miles, yes, for this trip.

The next morning we had just over 250 miles left to travel.

Through forests,

controlled fires,

by lakes,

and mountains.

Until we were back in the high desert of Nevada.

A trip of a life time. And of course we've been asked, where was our favorite, unmissable place? Our answer, everyone in their life time should visit Yellowstone, but we hope you can visit it all and would be happy to help you with your planning.

'America the beautiful'. Our only question is, 'where next?'

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Day 15: Melrose to Whitefish, Montana

We were clearly not destined to return to the sun-drenched days we'd enjoyed when we'd first arrived at The Big Hole River. Being with our good friends we still had a great time and had loved our exploration of Anaconda and Butte. However, in the freezing, below 28 degree temperatures, there was no further fly fishing or floating the Big Hole and now it was time to continue on.

We'd kept a close eye on the weather hoping to see an improvement, especially as our next destination was about 300 miles to the north.

Would we be able to make it through the snow in our little car?

We were carrying snow chains but I had serious reservations....

As did our friends as nervously they opened their gate and waved us goodbye.

My driver of course was supremely confident, certainly a little 'dusting' of snow was not going to stop us, or alter our itinerary! After a fairly substantial amount of snow, which mercifully did not require chains, battling through torrential rain we tore passed the pine forests and lakes aware of how different it would have all looked in the sunshine. Finally we arrived at our destination; the delightful little northern Montana town of Whitefish, just 100 miles from the Canadian border.

Day 16: Glacier National Park

'Tomorrow is another day' and we were hoping for clear skies or at the very least no rain. We'd come a long way, over 1500 miles, to visit this national park gem. The route through the park is called 'Going to the Sun Road', surely that would be a good omen?

It was not to be. The rain which hadn't stopped all night was determined to stay. The stunning views we'd ogled over in glossy brochures were invisible, shrouded in low cloud and mist. Conditions were so poor that 'Going to the Sun Road' was closed, there was no sun!

Lake McDonald was blanketed in clouds.

The trees dripped miserably aside the swollen river bank, the startlingly azure blue water rushing by.

You know what they say; 'only mad dogs and Englishmen'! This had to be another optimistic Brit battling the elements like us.....

Day 17: Whitefish to Spokane, Washington

The rain continued on through into the next day. We spent more time than we'd intended in our hotel, the recently opened Firebrand. Central to everything it was a great refuge, trendy and inviting and its' restaurant delicious.

We'd enjoyed lunch by the lake at The Firebrand's sister hotel, The Lodge at Whitefish but by the morning of our departure the inclement weather meant we'd barely seen Whitefish. Before we left I grabbed an umbrella and took myself on a quick tour.

Despite it's watery guise, Whitefish was really charming and quaint.

As we began our journey south on scenic Highway 2, the blue skies eventually returned.

We were headed for a night stop in Spokane, Washington.

Day 18: Columbia River Gorge to Hood River, Oregon

We took the freeway until we reached the '84' Freeway where the road met the Columbia River Gorge. It was yet another remarkable journey that far exceeded expectations.

Across the gorge we could see the path of the '84' trailing beside the river. We were on the on the other side, on the more scenic Highway '14', traveling in the footsteps of the 19th century American explorers Lewis and Clark. The road rolled and twisted between a diverse and dramatic landscape.

Rocky outcrops and barren hillsides suddenly gave way to strips of lush vines which vanished almost as quickly as they'd appeared.

The hilltop ridges became lined with windmills.

And in the distant skyline the snow covered peak of Mt Hood became visible.

Mt Hood eventually dominated the skyline as we drove closer towards it. Situated in the Cascade Volcanic Arc, Mt Hood is a potentially active stratovolcano. It lasted erupted on 21 September 1865, but because of it's potential to cause devastating damage and loss of life it's activity is closely monitored.... Soaring up to an elevation of 11,250′ Mt Hood is home to six ski areas and the nation's longest ski season.

The occasional train followed along beside us chugging its way along the tracks which ribboned between the river and the road.

Finally we crossed the Columbia River into Oregon to the town of Hood River on the other side of the  the water.

The Hood River Hotel

Our night stop was The Hood River Hotel in the center of this delightful little town.

The present day lobby was built as an annex in 1912 to the original, much smaller wooden hotel. It became the hotel lobby in 1926. The entire building was restored in 1989 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1994. It was lovely place to stay.

Day 19 McMinnville, Willamette Valley, Oregon

We awoke the next morning to yet more streaming skies.

The short freeway drive to Portland was somewhat perilous but by the time we left the freeway the clouds began to part. Our destination was McMinnville in Oregon's beautiful wine region of the Willamette Valley. As we meandered through the pretty countryside we were reminded of England it was so picturesque and green, doubtless because just like England the region is blessed with a lot of rain!

Before reaching McMinnville we passed the Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum. It appeared unexpectedly, making a stunning statement on the horizon, a '747'  floating on top of a building amidst the vines. It was an irresistible stopping point for my pilot husband!

Inside was the famous Spruce Goose, Howard Hughes' incredible 1947, H-4 Hercules, airlift flying boat. Intended for transatlantic flight transportation during World War II, it was not completed in time to be used in the war. We'd previously explored it years earlier at its former resting place beside the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California.

We didn't linger for too long, the surrounding countryside and wineries beckoned us enticingly.

We were not disappointed with either the views or the wine!

We knew the region was famous for it's pinot noirs and with good reason

Our bed for the night was in The 3rd Street Flats in the middle of McMinnville. It was superb, spacious, beautifully equipped, and excellent value, we wished we could have stayed longer!

The next day we departed through the vineyards and orchards somewhat reluctantly for Eugene and on to the last stop of the trip, possibly the penultimate......

The post Whitefish, Montana, to the Willamette Valley, Oregon ~ Days 16-19 American Road Trip appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Fly fishing in Montana

Montana is renowned for its beautiful fly fishing rivers. Enthusiasts come from all over the country to float the rivers and fish. For me, the idea of wading into cold water, albeit with waterproofs on, to wait for hours, to maybe catch one fish, did not sound very appealing. But we were going to be spending a few days at our friend's beautiful property on The Big Hole River, one of the premier fly fishing rivers in Montana, so I was open to see what all the fuss was about.

The Big Hole River, Montana

I've learned that there's always a story if you look for it, and even with a river I found one! The Lewis and Clark expedition discovered and named the Jefferson River in 1805, also naming its three tributaries, Philosophy, Philanthropy and Wisdom in honor of President's Jefferson's virtues. The Wisdom was the most western of the three. Fur trappers later renamed it and the valley where it's situated, The Big Hole, a traditional term for a winter shelter. A community about 50 miles to the west still carries the name Wisdom today. The other two tributaries eventually became known as the Ruby and Beaverhead Rivers. But we floated the Big Hole and it was thrilling. The water spluttered and rushed ahead of us, bald eagles circled the sky and one of us even caught a fish. I was excited for the our next day out. But first we had some other places on the itinerary to explore.

Anaconda, Montana

About 45 miles north of Melrose, where we were staying, is Anaconda. At the beginning of the 20th century Anaconda was a thriving mining town. The mines have been closed for decades and the original mining area has been miraculously transformed into a Jack Nicklaus golf course discreetly peppered with mining relics paying tribute to Anaconda's past. The mining company's former pay role office in the center of town is now home for The Smelter City Brewery.

It was great to see such a grand historic building restored to life, with the original 1900's elevator and early electric fuse box still on the wall. The beer was pretty good too!

Butte, Montana

North west from Melrose, is Butte. Captivated by a local guide's enthusiasm and his vast knowledge of a place he was clearly proud to talk about, he took us back to Butte's former glory years. And the past of this crusty old city was brought to life.

Hennessy's Department Store

According to our guide there are more historical buildings in Butte than any other city in USA. The building where the tour started was built in 1887.  The first three floors of this building, was originally the department store, Hennessy's, which, we were told, in its day rivaled any Macy's. Above it the corporate offices of The Copper Company, had been located. At one time this had been the 19th biggest corporation in USA.

The Hirbour Tower

Built in 1901, the Hirbour Tower has earned it's place on the historic register as Butte's first skyscraper.

Finlen Hotel

The art deco Finlen Hotel was built in 1924 and is still a hotel today. A grand, 9-story hotel with 250 rooms, it was designed after the Hotel Astor in New York City. Some of its former guests include John F. Kennedy, Thomas Edison, Richard Nixon, and Charles Lindbergh.

In the early 1900’s Butte was one of the richest cities in the USA and grew to become the largest city between Minneapolis and Seattle. Butte had many famous visitors, Teddy Roosevelt, Mark Twain and Al Capone all came to Butte, in addition to some of the big entertainers of the time. Al Jolson, Bing Crosby and Bob Hope all performed in Butte as did Charlie Chaplin in 1911. Chaplin wrote in his memoirs that he had became worn out in Butte, performing one show every 8 hours to coincide with the miner's shifts. He also commented that the ladies in Butte were the fairest in the West. At the time Butte had the second largest Red-Light district in the region.

Butte's basement businesses

As more people came to work in Butte its population exploded. In its prime, the city was so busy that the sidewalks were made two story because space was at such a premium. Many businesses were established underground with glass blocks placed in the sidewalk to bring in the light. Up until 1929 it was possible to travel six blocks below ground visiting these basement businesses.

This former barber's shop remained operational from 1924 until 1968.

The graffiti found on the walls here tell their own stories. Some of the graffiti was written by a sick child whose family were Norwegian. Based on what he wrote, the boy's family have been traced back to their arrival in USA at Ellis Island.

Our guide also referenced the visit of two women from Sacramento who, having found a shoe box belonging to their grandfather, containing memorabilia from Butte, came to trace their grandfather's origins. We were told that it was an emotional moment when their search led them to this basement and graffiti written in shoe polish by their grandfather.

Butte and Prohibition

As Butte grew, it ended up with 212 bars and was entered into the Guinness Book of Records twice. Once because its bar on Broadway was the longest in the world, a city block long requiring seventeen bar tenders to run it. And secondly, because it had the country’s smallest bar seating, only eight. Butte also has the oldest Chinese restaurant in USA, still operating from its original premise. It has just celebrated 100 years in business.

Carrie A. Nation, the woman most closely associated with the temperance movement, visited Butte in 1910 to try and quell, what she considered, a rampant propensity for alcohol. Carrie was known as “Mother Nation” for her work helping unfortunate women and children. Having suffered the alcoholism of two husbands she had established a chapter of the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) helping to pass a Kansas law against selling alcohol. She came to Butte determined to do the same.

Not surprisingly Carrie was not welcomed by the locals! It is not certain how much influence she had, although in 1919, Prohibition started in Butte, nine months earlier than elsewhere in the country. The Federal Government, however, continued to make money from alcohol due to a clever loop hole which permitted its use for medicinal purposes, with a prescription of course. In recent years evidence of alcohol consumption during Prohibition has been found when several hidden crates of 100% proof Kentucky whiskey were unearthed in Butte. In Anaconda, the remodel of a grocery store uncovered a false wall behind which thirty cases of bottles labelled as floor wax were revealed. Small enough to be concealed in a pocket, it is thought their intended use was for whiskey. Hundreds of whiskey stills have also been discovered throughout the region.

The Rookwood Speakeasy

Prohibition lasted from 1919 into the mid 1930’s. Throughout this entire time, illicit drinking venues known as speakeasies flourished, it's believed there were over one hundred and fifty in Butte. In 2004, a speakeasy was discovered in Butte's Rookwood Hotel, a hotel which had been abandoned since 1986. Built in 1912, the hotel had a lavish interior with Terrazzo tiles from Florence, Italy. It's lobby was situated in the basement to shield it from the noise of the busy streets above. The Rookwood Speakeasy was found hidden off this lobby behind 6.5 inch thick walls and a 4.5 inch thick door.

Before entering the Speakeasy, people were told to look into the lobby mirror, which was two way, allowing those inside to see who was trying to gain admittance. Anyone entering was told to whisper, or speak easy the secret code they'd just been given; hence the term 'speakeasy'.

Despite having been abandoned for decades the Rookwood Speakeasy was remarkably intact containing many artifacts from its era of operation.

This hat, left hanging on the wall, had been worn in the late 1920's, determined from its pin supporting Herbert Hoover’s 1928 campaign for the Presidency.

It's owner is believed to be in this photograph found on the wall next to it.

The bathroom behind the bar had an original Crapper Toilet from England. Unlike standard versions of these toilets its wooden cistern had been faced with copper, Butte's local precious treasure.

As an aside note the tour guide told us an entertaining bathroom story related to early British settlers coming to America in the 1500's. Concerned about the quality of the soil they’d find in the new world, they often transported manure with them. Fearful that the methane produced from the manure might blow up the ship, an order was given to Ship High in Transit. Although amusing, my research suggests this story is as full of the proverbial as the acronym itself!

The Butte Bastille 

Our last stop on the tour was at Butte's former civic buildings.

Home to the Mayor's office, it was also the police station and the city jail, known as “Butte Bastille”.

Built in the basement in 1890 it was a grim place. The steam pipes running in the ceilings ensured a sweltering and uncomfortable temperature of about 105 degrees F. The jail remained operational until 1971 when the Federal government finally closed it down condemning it as a dungeon.

One if its most famous inmates was the daring stunt driver Robert ‘Evel’ Knievel, a local Butte celebrity.

This cell was named after him because of the time he spent here for dangerous driving. According to our guide Doc Holiday also spent time here and Wyatt Earp’s brother was a police officer here.

An unimaginably cruel and miserable place, we left the jail in need of some consolation. We found some in Metals Bar, formerly The Metals Bank, warming our souls in what had previously been the bank's vault!

Another place one did not to be locked inside!

BUTTE'S MINING LEGACY

It would be a mistake to leave Butte without learning more about its mining legacy upon which its former prosperity and wealth had been founded.

Gold was mined first in Butte followed by silver. Then, in the 1880’s copper was found. This was just a year after Edison had invented his light bulb, which requiring a copper filament, had made the international demand for copper soar. Miners arrived from all over the world to work in Butte's copper mines and the population of the city exploded. At one point there were 100,000 people living in Butte, 52,000 of which were miners from thirty two countries speaking seventeen different languages, the majority being Irish, Welsh and Cornish miners. Between 1905-1917 Butte produced one third of the world’s copper. As the guide on the underground mining tour remarked, "Gold had drawn people, silver encouraged them but copper made them rich!"

Butte's Underground Mining Tour

The tour took place at the Orphan Girl Mine, so called because it was located further away from the other mines. Originally the copper from Butte's mines was taken by ship to be smelted in Wales in the UK. The men who owned these mines became millionaires and known locally as the 'Copper Kings'. Marcus Dailey was the first Copper King and William Clark the second.

The William Clark Mansion

Clark came to Butte in 1872 building Butte's first smelter. In 1884 he began construction of this three floor, thirty room mansion. It took four years to build at a cost of $260,00. The lavish interior is richly decorated in hardwoods and its nine fireplaces are adorned with imported tiles capped by hand carved mantles to match the room's decor.

William Clark went on to found Las Vegas and at one point was the richest man in world, a position he lost in 1900 when J.P. Morgan, the owner of The Anaconda Mining Company, won it from him. The two men became great rivals. On his death bed Clark made his children promise they would not sell out to Morgan, three weeks after he died they did just that.

The reconstruction of the town recreates 1890’s Butte with nearly thirty five historical structures and buildings.

The Miner's Dry

This is where the miners changed out of their wet clothes, washing out the grease & dirt with borax soap after their shift. Some of the ground water was so acidic that after just a few shifts it had destroyed the miner's clothes.

Before the miner's dry was available the men often walked the several miles home in wet clothes. During the harsh Butte winters when the temperatures could be as low as 50 degrees below zero the men often caught pneumonia and died. The miners dry allowed the men to dry off and change into clean clothes to try to prevent this happening.

The mine operated seven days a week there were five hundred shafts. A fascinating collection of artifacts, tools and machinery were on display.

We were told copper was known as peacock ore because before it was fired it was a bright green and blue color. It was a felon and instant dismissal to converse with the mine shaft engineer, the only mine employee to have received any formal training. Once inside the mine it was easy to understand the importance of his role. It was vital that he was never distracted, the lives of all that descended these perilous mines shafts were dependent on this engineer's constant vigilance.

Outside the museum it had somehow become mid-winter, it was perishing cold and we were grateful to escape the snow and bitter temperatures, somewhat bizarrely, by entering a mine. Miners' helmets with lights were produced for us to wear and we followed our guide by foot down into the mine.

Without our lamps it was pitch black. Up until 1910 the miners only had candle light to guide them. A highly unreliable source of light and it was very dangerous. If miners became trapped in the mine, with no light they would become permanently blind within a few days.

We walked a fair distance into the mine passing several piece of original mining equipment.

A mine shaft elevator.

The miners communicated with the shaft engineer by ringing the bell a set number of times.

Looking down the shaft it was possible to see the water at the bottom, it looked a long way down!

It was a fascinating tour. Back outside we drove passed the snow covered terraces of the former mining area. Close by was the infamous Berkley Pit, a large truck-operated open-pit copper mine operational until 1982. By 1980 nearly 1.5 billion tons of material had been removed from the Pit, including more than 290 million tons of copper ore. The pit enabled Butte to claim the title 'The Richest Hill on Earth'. Today the pit is extremely toxic, laden with heavy metals and dangerous chemicals that leach from the rock. Impressive strides have been made to reduce its toxicity but it currently it remains as a hazardous blight on the landscape.

We had arrived in Butte that morning in a snow storm which seemed determined to stay. A very wintery scene was waiting for us back by the Big Hole River. It had been a full and interesting day stepping back into the past.

The next few days we stayed close to home, sadly unable to fish or float the river bundled up by a log fire!

I had my doubts as to whether the weather was going to permit us to continue our journey.

My driver of course was undaunted. Ice scraper and snow chains at the ready, three days later we set off again, heading 300 miles north to Glacier National Park, Montana!

The post Day 9 -14 of our American Road Trip ~ Montana's fly fishing & mining legacy appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Our final morning at Yellowstone was possibly the most incredible. The clear blue skies probably helping to make our final Yellowstone stop, the Midway Geyser Basin, look even more spectacular. The basin was only a five minute drive from where we'd been staying, and was most definitely a dramatic au revoir to this wondrous place.

Midway Geyser Basin

Following the 1/2 mile board walk trail by the banks of the aptly named Firehole River. The hydrothermal sights we were about to see were both breathtaking and astonishing.

Firehole River

Each day, water from the hot springs and geysers in the Midway Geyser Basin pours nearly 500 gallons per minute of steaming water into the adjacent Firehole River. Scalding, bubbling ribbons rush down the rocks into the river below.

Excelsior Geyser Crater

The first geyser, just above the river, was the Excelsior Geyser. When Excelsior erupted in the 1880's, it reached heights of up to 300 feet. The sheer violence of its force formed the crater's jagged edge rupturing its underground system and causing eruptions to cease, it was thought forever.

However, on September 14 1985, the Excelsior Geyser roared back to life with forty seven hours of major activity. Despite its erratic pattern, this geyser still contributes to the gallons of boiling water pouring into the river.

The Microbial Mat

Around the edges of the rugged craters in the basin, thousands of years of past life have been preserved.

Microbes have grown in the run off channels extending from the geysers to become buried alive. The hot flowing water in the channels has deposited a crust of silica minerals called sinter which has helped preserve the shape of the resulting microbial mat. As new mats have grown, more layers have developed.

The Grand Prismatic Spring

This stunning pool of golden, burnt umbers and blue is often referred to as a 'Prism of Light', and 'Spectrum of Life'. One of the most brilliant of Yellowstone's hot springs, it is perhaps the most beautiful and the most spell binding. The intense blue color is caused by the sunlight being scattered by fine particles suspended in the water.

Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest spring in Yellowstone. It's massive expanse spans approximately 200 feet across the water. With temperatures normally exceeding 160F, the spring is normally cloaked in steam. Incredulously, deep below the spring, magma from an active volcano still heats water which rises to the surface through fissures in the rocks, a further part of the scorching water streaming into the Firehole River.

A living forest

Minerals dissolved in the hot water are deposited and gradually build up the terraced shoulders of the springs. Within the rainbow of golden colors microbes exist in thick mats of vertical forests, barely a few inches deep. Those near the top (similar to a forest canopy) use sunlight to perform photosynthesis which fuels the mat's community. Organisms further below the mat (similar to a forest understory) derive energy produced by those at the surface. They perform vital functions decomposing and recycling nutrients to the mat's canopy just like their counterparts in a forest. The lifeforms found here have helped scientists understand the types of life that developed on earth billions of years ago

The Grand Prismatic Spring has some stunning neighbors:

The Thermal Pool

The Opal Pool

The Turquoise Pool

It was hard to leave this entrancing place and as I already know, it's impossible to forget....

We headed through the park from Madison to pass the edge of the Caldera one last time.

The distant snow capped peaks of the mountains were a stunning backdrop to the snaking Madison River as we made our way back towards the small town of West Yellowstone.

Those mountains loomed closer as we proceeded on Highway '20' into Montana.

Ennis

Ennis was a charming western town where we stopped for lunch. Delicious food and delicious people, if people can be described as such, warm and inviting!

After Ennis we climbed up onto Highway '287' arriving in the nearby historic cowboy towns, which we had no idea were even there!

Virginia City, Montana

This old western town is a living tribute monument to the bygone era when it was first settled.

The Local Saloon

All that was missing were the cowboys, there were plenty of rails to tie up the horses.

A cabin by the Big Hole River

Our destination was our friend's beautiful cabin by the river across the other side of the railway tracks.

Stretching into the distance they reminded me of the 1950's children's TV show about a western train driver, 'Casey Jones', I used to love as a small child.

And then we were there.

Our luxurious resting place for the next few nights with our dear friends, by the Big Hole River, a few miles from the tiny little hamlet of Melrose, Montana. With a view to die for!

Watching the sun dip down over the Big Hole River I thought about the last few days. The ski slopes of Deer Valley and majestic peaks of the Grand Tetons. I hope you get to visit them. And then there's Yellowstone.....

Yellowstone is truly one of the most phenomenal places on earth. A living and vibrant testament to the miraculous and often inexplicable forces of Mother Nature. It's that special somewhere that leaves its footprint in your soul creating memories you’ll cherish in your heart forever.

Start planning........

The post Day 8 of our American Road Trip ~ Yellowstone's Midway Geyser Basin & driving to Montana appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We spent our first night inYellowstone  at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge a 5 minute walk from Yellowstone's most famous icon, ‘Old Faithful’.

It's more expensive to stay inside the park but it was great to be so close to Old Faithful. Not just because it meant not having to drive at the beginning of the day but also it meant we could marvel at Old Faithful and the surrounding area at varying times of the day.

Totally unperturbed by the traffic and people, clearly the buffalo though so too!

Old Faithful Geyser in the Upper Basin

Old Faithful is named because it is the most reliable of Yellowstone's geysers. It faithfully erupts about every 9o minutes, each eruption lasting between 1.5 to 5 minutes. The historical range of its recorded height is between 100-180 feet. The geyser itself was smaller than we'd been expecting and in truth didn't look as spectacular as we'd thought it would.

We waited with quite a few others, who, like us, had read the well posted signs or downloaded the Yellowstone 'App' that tells you when the next eruption is due.

The predictions were unbelievably accurate and our slight initial disappointment was quickly dissipated. Old Faithful is thrillingly impressive!

And when we went back at dusk it was even more mesmerizing.

The Upper Basin by Old Faithful

The Upper Basin where Old Faithful is situated lies close to the Firehole River. Like most of the accessible thermal areas at Yellowstone there are wooden boardwalk trails to follow allowing you to safely view everything just a few inches above the steaming ground. The entire basin is a bubbling, gurgling pagaent.

We were rapidly just as enthralled as we had been the previous day.

Spellbound by nature.

Crested Pool

There are more than 10,000 thermal pools scattered across the park but the crested pool is one of the hottest, its temperature often exceeding 199 Degrees Fahrenheit~93 Degrees Centigrade.

Anemone thermal pool at Upper Basin

The anemone pool really did look like a it's name sake, subtly changing its shape as it writhed in the mud.

Belgian Pool

So named for its resemblance to Belgium.

Beehive Geyser at Upper Basin

Beehive geyser is named for its 4 foot high cone's resemblance to a beehive. Although more modest looking than some of its neighbors, the Beehive is actually one of Yellowstone's most powerful geysers. It's cone shape acts a nozzle allowing it to shoot up to impressive heights of over 200 feet.

There are other thermal basins minutes away in the car, Black Sand Basin, Biscuit Basin and Midway Geyser Basin but we decided to leave those for our final morning and spend this day exploring as much of the lower loop as we had time for.

Retracing our steps back to Madison we climbed up through the pine forests towards West Thumb crossing the Continental Divide twice!

West Thumb thermal area by Lake Yellowstone

We came to the frozen shores of Lake Yellowstone before we reached West Thumb. The steaming lakeshore and water around West Thumb fills a volcanic crater created about 174,000 years ago. Small, compared to the Yellowstone caldera, nonetheless it is as large as Oregon's well known Lake Caldera. West Thumb was yet another riveting spot.

West Thumb itself was caused by an explosion 125,000 years ago but remains thermally active. It is a percolating marvel of hot springs, mud-pots and steaming geysers.

Some just chuckle, others steam and hiss furious little clouds of sulphur infused steam.

The Sulphur Cauldron

This was our next roadside stop. Situated on the edge of Yellowstone's buried volcano, the Sulphur Caldron is ten times more acidic than lemon juice. Unbelievably it is teeming with life, billions of Thermoacidophiles (micro-organisms which thrive in a hot, acidic environment) thrive here, converting the pool's hydrogen sulfide gas into sulfuric acid. This in turn breaks down the soil and rock creating a bubbling mud pool.

Unbelievably, magma from the Yellowstone Caldera is still moving below the ground, pushing the ground upwards into the hills visible in the distance.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone

Without sounding trite, just when you think you couldn't be any further impressed you are! The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone, like it's name sake, The Grand Canyon, is virtually invisible until your toes are on its edge. The impact is just as dramatic. The show capped edges of pine trees tumbling down the golden, red rocks, dropping 422 feet between the cascading waters of the Yellowstone River is literally spell binding.

We were viewing The Grand Canyon from the North Rim.

and when the camera lens caught the vista from the reverse direction it was just a captivating.

Brink of the Lower Falls

It is possible to hike to a viewing point at the place where the river crashes hundred of feet into the canyon. In this photo, it is just about visible on the right of the top of the falls. Sadly we didn't have time to do that.

The drama where the river cascaded over the rocks far below was dazzling too

Standing above the canyon we thought it was probably the most entrancing of all Yellowstone vistas, well almost......

Returning back to the lodge we stopped by the snow kissed lakeshore one more time. Looking at the ice across the water was striking.

And then of course seeing Old Faithful erupt at dusk well....

I hope a picture speaks a thousand words.

The golden streaks across the evening sky made the Upper Basin even more mystical.

Could Yellowstone stun us any further? I think you can imagine my answer. See you next time!

The post Day 7 of our American Road Trip ~ Old Faithful & other Yellowstone wonders appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Yellowstone National Park is one of those places that people visit and enthuse over, urging you to go there too. I’m not sure what we were expecting. I knew Yellowstone was famous for its thermal area and was obviously excited to see its most talked about icon, the geyser ‘Old Faithful’. Nothing however could have prepared us for the wondrous spectacle of this incredible place.

There are several entrances to the park, we entered from West Yellowstone, just off the map to the west of Madison. 98% of Yellowstone is in Wyoming, (where we'd just spent the last few days), 3% Montana, 1% Idaho.

Initially, there is nothing to tell you just how remarkable Yellowstone is. The scenery is serene but you don't immediately stumble into thermal areas or see anything especially unusual.

We had only driven a few miles when the cars in front became a weaving snake of red brake lights. After ten minutes of making very little progress we became concerned that our time in the park was going to be one long traffic jam. It was a huge relief to discover the reason for the delay.

The Buffalo at Yellowstone

Totally unconcerned by the traffic, the buffalo ambled towards us. Perhaps a little too closely as they wandered past!

As we proceeded through the park these dozy, gentle looking creatures became a regular sight. It was hard to believe that they could be dangerous but like any wild animal they should be treated with respect and caution.

Yellowstone, a giant caldera

The heart of Yellowstone is a volcano. Over thousands of years huge eruptions occurred, the last being about 631,000 years ago. Eventually the center of the volcano collapsed to form a thirty by forty-five mile basin or caldera. The outline of the caldera is marked in purple on the map above, part of it was visible here. Astoundingly, it is the heat from those eruptions that still fuel the thermal activity we were about to discover.

After about 14 miles, leaving the banks of the River Madison, we reached Madison, an information station. Yellowstone has two main loops, an upper and a lower. That night we were staying at Old Faithful, south of Madison, so we decided we would visit the upper loop first and take the lower loop to the south the following day. It was still early in the season and the road between Tower-Roosevelt down to Canyon Village was closed so we were not going to be able to complete the entire 84 miles. Once we reached Tower Roosevelt we would head towards the park's north east entrance (just off the map, top right) to the Lamar valley before heading back.

The road from Madison rapidly becoming surrounded by miles of dense pine trees. 80% of Yellowstone's 2.2 millions acres is forest land, here this became very evident. The rest of Yellowstone is 15% grassland and 5% water. We found the roads well maintained with great information signs and services at most of the main centers.

Artist Paint Pots

Our first stop, south of Norris (which we visited on our return) was at the Artist Paint Pots. We parked the car and followed a flat sandy trail through the trees. It took us to a place of total wonder.

Mudpots

These thick, bubbling pools of mud are actually acidic hot springs. They have a poor water supply and are formed by the decomposition of the surrounding rocks by acid from volcanic gases and micro-organisms.

Following the wooden board walk trail we passed many of these steaming thermal pools.

A final peak of Artist Paint Pots, one of nature's hissing, steaming marvels.

The Golden Gate Canyon

After we tore ourselves away the road climbed again and we suddenly found ourselves next to the sheer drop of a canyon, The Golden Gate Canyon. Bridging the canyon was one of the most challenging engineering feats completed in the park. The first bridge was constructed in 1885 but by 1900 it was dangerously unstable. It has been rebuilt several times in 1900, 1933 and 1977.

Mammoth Springs

Devil's Thumb

Yellowstone is a place of diverse extremes. Just when you think you can't be surprised any further natural, your breath is taken away once more.

The black 'devil's thumb', sits aside the ever changing travertine terraces.

Liberty Cap and Hot Spring Cone

Beside the travertine terraces a hot spring cone shoots out of the steaming rock.

Deer were grazing in the pasture beside the park's employee properties at Mammoth Hot Springs.

Edge of the Caldera at Yellowstone

Passing more of the caldera's rim after Mammoth Springs we went towards Tower Roosevelt.

This drive afforded further stunning alpine vistas.

The Lamar Valley

Eventually we reached the Lamar Valley, home to herds of buffalo, elk, grizzly bears and wolves who were reintroduced into the park in 1995.

It was at this point we retraced our steps back to Mammoth Springs, passing more buffalo grazing on the rolling hills just beyond Tower Roosevelt.

Roaring Mountain

After Mammoth Springs we wound our way on towards Norris stopping first at this incredible steaming rock face, known as Roaring Mountain.

Norris Geyser Basin

This astonishing thermal area was named after Philetus W. Norris, the park's superintendent from 1877-1882. He recorded the hydrothermal features of this, the hottest, most acidic and most dynamic geyser basin in Yellowstone. Norris was also responsible for building some of the parks first roads.

The Porcelain Basin

The Porcelain half mile trail begins with a panoramic view of its steaming, bubbling landscape.

The Back Basin

The one one and a half mile trail winds through the woods passing through a beautiful and bizarre basin. Heated by the Yellowstone Volcano, water travels upwards and erupts into acidic geysers, steaming fumaroles and simmering pools.

Emerald Spring

The color of a hot spring is usually determined by the minerals present. In a clear pool blue, the sunlight is absorbing all those colors except blue. This 27 feet deep pool is lined with sulphur which combined with the reflected blue light makes it appear this stunning emerald green.

Steam Boat Geyser

This is the world's tallest active geyser. It erupts infrequently, the last time was October 14 2020. When it does erupt it can reach heights of more than 300 feet.

Cistern Spring

The varied browns, oranges and greens in this spring indicate the presence of algae and bacteria, which can thrive in temperatures far hotter than humans could tolerate.

Echinus ~ an acidic geyser

In 1878, the mineralogist Dr. Albert Peale named this geyser Echinus, because it reminded him of the spines of the star fish echinoderm. Echinus rarely erupts although during the 1990's eruptions were more frequent.

When early visitors reported the inexplicable sights they had seen at Yellowstone, few people believed their accounts of what they'd seen. Bubbling mud, steaming rocks, hissing geysers set within an enormous forest with rivers and vast plains of grazing wild animals; it was literally fantastical. With no cameras to verify their stories it wasn't until artists were dispatched to record these incredible wonders that people began to listen.

In 1872 the American Congress passed legislation to create the park, the first national park in the world, preserving and protecting it for eternity. Thank goodness that they had such foresight.

Tomorrow we will explore the lower loop of this phenomenal and wondrous place.

The post Day 6 of our American Road Trip ~ Yellowstone National Park appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Day 5 of our American Road Trip

On Day 5 we spent the morning still bedazzled by the Tetons exploring further into Grand Teton National Park

The snow capped peaks of the Teton range dominated the skyline.

Their reflection in Lake Jackson was breathtaking.

From where we were at Lake Jackson, it is possible to continue on through Grand Teton National Park into Yellowstone National Park. Unfortunately for us, the road was not going to open for the season until the following day. The edge of Yellowstone was only a thirty minute drive away, but we had to turn round and return to Jackson and then drive the equivalent of three sides of a square to get to there.

It wasn't such a hardship with these incredible views.

Although we were on a parallel road, further away than the day before, it was difficult to resist trying to capture the sheer magnificence of The Tetons.

From every view point the Tetons filled my camera lens.

We kept stopping, especially when we saw this field of bison.

Once back in Jackson we climbed out of the town along a stunning alpine road towards Idaho.

About twenty minutes later we were on the flat plains of Idaho surrounded by potato fields.

We were now on the other side of the Tetons but they still filled the sky to our right.

If you kept looking straight ahead across the vast plains of of mostly flat agriculture, The Tetons were gone.

But still to our right, this 40 mile stretch of the Rockies, The Tetons, remained.

And then finally, after about an hour, having driven those three sides of a square, we turned away and headed up Route '20' towards Montana.

Fringed with pine trees the road climbed up again as we passed through the Targhee National Forest.

We hadn't quite reached  Montana but we knew we were close.....

The landscape altered again,

and just between those hills was West Yellowstone where tomorrow our adventure would continue....

The post American Road Trip ~The Tetons, Wyoming, Idaho & Montana appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Day 4 Hiking in the Grand Teton National Park

The Grand Tetons looked even more stunning on day four of our American road trip. Capped in white, they lay strung before us, the cornflower blue skies creating the perfect back drop to accentuate their wonder as we entered the Grand Teton National Park for a second day.

The approximately 2.7 billion year old rocks found in the Grand Teton's core are some of the oldest in the USA, yet surprisingly The Grand Tetons are one of the youngest mountain ranges in the world. The Tetons rise abruptly from the valley, having nothing to obstruct their view they are dramatically breathtaking.

As you pass through the valley, this is what makes them such a spectacle. To one side of the road are these soaring, jagged mountains, on the other, gentle undulating plateaus which at times seem almost flat.

Such exquisite peaks provided the perfect backdrop for some more posing! Not too much because we were going hiking.

The Creek by Jenny Lake

It was a pleasant 65 degrees. We parked our wheels and took the path across the creek. We were told Hidden Falls was an easy hike just over a mile away.

The views were stunning as we made our way along the trail.

Every so often we were treated to glimpses of Jenny Lake.

The pine infused air and lake side vistas reminded us of Tahoe. The occasional banks of snow by the water told us that nature had only recently shed her winter gown. The sandy path through the trees was easy enough.

But then it became a little more challenging. An hour passed without even the faintest sound of any water rushing over rocks. Stumbling somewhat, we went higher and higher, negotiating a snow covered trail that was increasingly slippery and rutted.

The site of a small beaver, well we think that's what this furry creature was, cheered us forward. Having passed several signs urging the importance of carrying bear spray, we were grateful that we didn't see anything bigger...

It was closer to two hours, not one, before we finally found Hidden Falls. A cascading, frothing band tumbling its way over the boulders down the mountain side and aptly named, Hidden Falls were well and truly hidden!

We were triumphant, albeit with aching feet.

Of course it was worth it, except now we had to return......

Eventually we were back by the sparkling vistas of Jenny Lake,

and making our way back through the park.

We found ourselves following a van from La Belle France, not a car registration you see every day in the U.S. of A!

Safely back at The Anvil we parked near this remaining remnant of the hotel's former life. How cool that it was kept.

The Salt Flats of Utah and Deer Valley felt far way, as did our drive through Wyoming to get to Jackson. We'd already driven about 800 miles and tomorrow, after returning to The Grand Tetons we are Yellowstone bound, see you there!

The post Our American Road Trip ~ Hiking in Grand Teton National Park appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.