Lake Como, Italy; a picture speaks a thousand words.......... sometimes a visual image is the best way to describe a beautiful place. Despite the veil of mist, the tears in the sky and the frowns across the horizon, nothing could diminsh the beauty of this Italian 'glass mirror'; the evocative and romantic Lake Como.
Lake Como's 'Golden triangle', Menaggio to Varenna and then to the pearl of the lake, Bellagio, all 5 minutes from each other across the glistening water.

Menaggio

Shopping street in Menaggio

All things Italian: olive oils, pasta and limoncella!

Varenna

The Villa in Varenna

Approaching Albergo Milano ~ delightful lake front property where we stayed

Saint Giorgio ~ the church in Varenna

Inside Saint Giorgio's, Varenna

Varenna's delicious local Salumeria

Inside Varenna's Salumeria

A Varenna walkway down to the lake

Bellagio

The streets of Bellagio

A Piazza in Bellagio

Departing Bellagio ~ a view from the ferry

After spending just a few hours by the shores of this glistening jewel, Lake Como, widely regarded as Italy's most beautiful lake all one can really say is arriverderci  ~ 'until next time' .......................

The post Lake Como, an Italian jewel appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Our spectacular drive, just a week ago, from Liechenstein through the Alps to Lake Como, dramatic, breathtaking scenery, had us gasping on every twist of the highway. Azure skies, below which, everywhere you looked was a horizon dominated by brilliant white, soaring, jagged mountains. Thrusting out of the earth like angry explosions, Mother Nature demonstrating her immense power, both stunningly beautiful yet menacing. Like the huge rollers of the ocean, daring man to conquer them.
The view that greeted us from our Liechenstein bedroom window as our day began in the charming Hotel Oberland

Hotel Oberland Liechenstein, a real Alpine treat, highly recommended!

When our world momentarily darkened, as we hurtled at 120km/ph through one of the numerous mountain tunnels, each time we burst out into the sunshine the sheer scale of nature had us in awe. These sheer faces of white reaching into the clouds defying anything to grow on their steepest sides.

Man's bold engineering somehow seemed to challenge Mother Nature herself as the road ran on and on, allowing us to navigate through what at one time, in early Spring, would have been impassable terrain.

Church spires and small towns reminded you of a time without autobahnen and cars, when whole settlements were cut off through the harsh winter months. It gave you cause to pause and a respect for those people, not really so long ago, who lived in these then isolated mountain regions.

Signs for glamourous restorts like Kloisters and St Moritz tempted us, just a mere 30 minutes away! A few days in a Swiss Alpine ski chalet seemed so inviting. At one point we nearly ended up in one as our faithful 'Arabella' guided us to cross a Pass where the road abruptly ended in a ski resort car park, impassable at this time of year!! Lake Como just 50km away, instead of 150km via the autobahnen, if only we'd packed our skis!!

On kinder, gentler slopes, alpine trees clung precariously, splashing a smattering of evergreen amongst the snow. Like the folds of a billowing, two coloured skirt, the lower elevations gradually merged colour from icy white to fir green.

With her giant paintbrush, Mother Nature had wiped the promise of spring across the bottom of the mountains, sweeping them with a green lushness that was beginning to gradually seep upwards as the sun slowly began her next job of melting winter away.

As we left the most embracing of these heights behind us and slipped down toward first lake Lugano and then eventually Lake Como the skies sadly greyed like the ashes remaining after a fire. Water and sky almost merged in places into a milky blurr barely separated at the lake shore.

Despite the sorrowful skies and entrenched as our minds are with our beloved Californian Lake Tahoe, there was nothing to disappoint. This twisting, meandering lake, ribboned with vibrantly colorful Italian architecture was  as mystical and romantic as I had hoped. Like Lake Tahoe, we were surrounded by a dramatic mountainous landscape but somehow more fierce and soaring than the somewhat gentler Sierras. The Alps seemed to be cupping the edges of the water in their hands. Unlike Tahoe, Lake Como's edges were threaded with tiny, medieval, distinctly Italian villages and towns. Ancient cobbled streets and golden reds, oranges and yellows of shuttered, balconied buildings clung like a bead of brightly coloured jewels to the lake side, it was all and more I had believed it would be.

The post Lake Como from Liechenstein through the Swiss Alps appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

A trip to Venice would not be complete without a gondola ride. Exploring Venice along her streets of water, provides a uniquely romantic perspective. It might be a very 'touristy' thing to to do but really where else can you become acquainted with a city by water and be serenaded by a gondolier as you do so? From where we were staying we could literally step out of our bedroom window onto the canal..........
View from Corte 1321 our delightful and highly recommended, bed and breakfast

Our Gondolier wrapped up in the cold March weather

Venice showing off its enviable Italian style ~ certainly a different way to shop!

Everywhere you go in Venice, be it on foot or by water, there are reminders of the Carnival, mostly in the form of colourful masks. Some expensive, beautiful, hand-made pieces of art, although there are an abundance of cheaper copies for everyone to purchase! The story behind these masks is associated with the Venetians addiction to gambling. The Venetians were so consumed with this 'past time' that in order to protect their identity they came up with the idea of wearing a mask. Colourful, often outrageous, sometimes quite menacing artistic creations, worn now mostly at Carnival and available for us all to 'party'!

Early morning flooding on the canal

The Rialto Bridge

Morning exercise on Venice's 'streets'

The market Place where James Bond jumped from the balcony, in true '007' style in Casino Royal

James Bond's 'support team', Ventian style!

And at the end of a busy day, the gondolier needs to check his date is confirmed

Ready for a carefully prepared, delicious dinner in the local Trattoria!

The post Venetian romance on a gondola appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Venice, Italy, often described today as the most romantic city in the world, distinctively unique with a demeanour all of her own. Her ancient buildings, her tiny alley ways, her 400 plus bridges straddling her streets of water, her crew of romantic gondolas, her history, her buildings of beauty and culture....... no wonder she remains a glittering Italian jewel. Dating back to the 5th century, Venice became at one point in the mid 14th century the 3rd largest city in Europe, after Paris and Naples. Yet her beginnings were humble, a group of tiny islands built within a lagoon sheltered from the Adriatic Sea. So how did this city built on water develop and what is her story today?

How the city was built

The ancient Venetians deforested the region north and north east of Venice to lay the foundations for their city. They used the timber from these forests to 'steal' land from the lagoon, laying thousands of wooden pylons into the water. Over time these tree trunks have petrified and have created a bed of rock to support the watery world which was gradually created. The weight of what was built on this 'rock' was of huge consideration and even today all buildings in Venice are only constructed from wood and brick. All the marble you see, however magnificent, including the stunning Saint Mark's Basilica is in actual fact a thin layer of veneer.
Saint Mark's Basilica, Venice - engulfed by excited tourists

A Marbled veneered Venetian spectacle!

The Torre dell'Orologio in Piazza San Marco

One of the Towers of Venice sinking on its bed of wooden pylons

Venice, a lady in a tattered dress?

Despite man's best efforts and vast technological improvements, Mother Nature often continues to have the last say. The all encompassing tidal water which ebbs and flows on a 6 hour cycle, has a constant and often devastating enduring effect on many buildings.

Added to that, the extremes in humidity tear away at newly restored render and paintwork making much of the city appear tired and uncared for. The cost of upkeep and repair, with soaring real estate prices have added to this problem with a population in considerable decline many buildings have been left vacant with no-one able to preserve them.
Damage to a property renovated only 12 months ago

800 year old buildings in need of repair

Venice today

This does not mean Venice is dying, its uniqueness and albeit faded, beauty attract on average, over 500, 000 visitors daily. From all over the globe tourists come to marvel and enthuse, soaking up the ambience as they explore the tiny streets and alley ways of Venice, either on foot or through its maze of canals. She is indeed a pulsating city of mystical wonder and charm which despite her over abundance of tourist accoutrements has to be experienced to be believed. 

Venice from the Grand Canal

Santa Maria della Salute built on a bed of 17,000 wooden pylons!

and finally let's not forget her spectacular tradition of Carnival, held every year in February!

The post Italy's Lady Venezia, a romantic, distinctive charmer appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The Republic of Venice dates back as far as 421, as a collection of lagoon communities which was to become an important trading post. Situated on the Adriatic Sea, Venice traded with the Byzantine Empire and Muslim world extensively. Venice was greatly influenced by this relationship, as reflected in some of the Venetian architecture, especially in the Saint Mark's Basilica which resembles the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, present day Istanbul. By the late 13th century, Venice was the most prosperous city in all of Europe, so how did her story begin? Here is a tiny snapshot of her long and impressive history.

The Republic of Venice

Sometime in the mid 7^th century the first leader, the first Doge of Venice, was elected. The Doge was the most senior official of the city, possibly the early doges were local representatives of the Emperor of Constantinople. The Doge held office for life and like the emperor were regarded as the ecclesiastical, the civil and the military leader. The Venetian republic was similar to that of ancient Rome. It lasted until the Napoleonic occupation in 1797, after which it was subjected first to French then Austrian rule, finally in 1866 becoming part of a united Italy.

Ancient Gates to the city - St Mark's Basilica, The Campanile, (bell tower of the Basilica), Dodge's Palace all in view

The Palazzo Ducale~Doge’s Palace

The first Palace of the Doge was built in the 9th century, although no trace of it remains today. The existing structure dates back to 1172, with many extensions and improvements having been made since.

The Palace formed a collection of buildings which housed, the Doge’s apartments, public offices, prisons and stables. By the 20^th century, following the French and Austrian occupations, all public offices had been relocated and in 1996 the Doge’s Palace became part of the museums of Venice.

The Bridge of Sighs

Around 1600, further prisons were added Doge’s Palace. The one holding condemned prisoners was linked to the Doge’s Palace by the Bridge of Sighs. It was across this bridge that these prisoners made their last journey before execution in Piazzetta San Marco; the bridge’s name deriving from the supposed sighs made by those men!

Saint Mark's Basilica

A church has stood on the current site since 832. Although that church was destroyed by a rebellion in 976, it was rebuilt in 978 to form the basis of the present basilica built in 1673. Its opulent design and gilded Byzantine mosaics earned it its nickname Chiesa d'Oro - Church of gold.
The basilica was originally built as a private chapel for the Doge, finally becoming the city's cathedral in 1807, when it became the seat of the archbishop of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Venice. Venice had previously had a some what troubled relationship with Rome having been previously ex-communicated 6 times!

Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana

This stunning Library in St Mark's Square, built in 1537, is one of the largest libraries in the world. It still holds one of the greatest classical texts collections. In the 15th century, Venice was quick to adopt the newly invented German printing press and by 1482 had become the printing capital of the world. It is estimated that at one point over 55% of all books in Europe were printed in Venice.

Venice, the home of Marco Polo

Venice is the birthplace and home of Marco Polo, (1254 -1324) the famous Venetian merchant and traveller. Marco Polo travelled extensively with his father to Asia, their journeys keeping them from Venice for nearly 24 years.

Home of Marco Polo

So incredible were the stories they returned with that they were dismissed as lies by the Venetians. On Marco's return, Venice was at war with Genoa and the Genoans imprisoned him. Whilst in prison he recounted his stories to his fellow prisoners who wrote them down in Il Milione ("The Million"), a book  which did much to introduce Europeans to Central Asia and China.

Marco was released in 1299, to become a wealthy merchant, he married and had three children. He was never famous or revered in Venice. Even today on the 800^th anniversary of his discoveries there were big celebrations in China but none in Venice!

800 year old property where Marco Polo lived

 

The post Un po 'di storia di Venezia - a slice of Venice's history! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Verona's Castlevecchio, captivates you as soon as you enter the city. It was originally a castle  ~ Castle of San Martino ~ and is now an incredible museum. It is home to a stunning collection of Christian art work dating from the Middle Ages until the beginning of the 18th century. The building itself is a 'treasure' to behold and is dominated by an enormous keep. It is situated next to the River Adige, across which one can still stroll, over the Pont Scaligero. The pont, with its three magnificient arches, like Castlevecchio itself, is a masterpiece of red brick work, not to be missed on a visit to this beautiful city, Verona.
The impressive drawbridge leads you into Castlevecchio's entrance

History almost exploding before you in the entry way

The Museum of  Castlevecchio

Some of the treasures in the downstairs Sculptor Gallery

The 2nd floor gallery

The stunning restoration of some of Castlevecchio's walls and a bell dating from 1081

Christian art work from local churches

Too many incredible paintings to do justice to, dating from the 12th century through to this one in the early 18th century

Outside exploring the remparts of Castlevecchio

The 19th century clock from Castlevecchio's ramparts

View of the Pont Scaligero from the ramparts. It was built around 1354 -1356, and in it's time had the longest span in the world. The bridge was destroyed by the retreating Nazis in April 1945 but totally rebuilt in its original style by 1951.

View of Ponte Scaligero over Adige River by Castelvecchio, Verona

The post Verona's Castelvecchio appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

When you wake up in one of the most romantic cities in the world, despite a sky full of 'tears' you heart can only over flow when you look at a view like this from your bedroom window.

Heartened by our charming, tiny hotel, Relais Ristori's motto, Carpe Diem ~ 'Seize the day' ~ we grabbed our brollies and boots to brave whatever the gods might throw down upon us and explore this beautiful city.
As we meandered Verona's medieval streets, which overflow with ambience and history, it is almost impossible not to gasp as you turn every corner, as breathtaking architecture holds you spell bound. Looking up at the shuttered buildings, distinctly ornate and Italian, once again you wonder what stories are held within the embrace of these ancient walls.

Piazza's brimming full of visual spectacles, Piazza delle Erbe in central Verona

And only a few steps away from this Piazza, on Via Cappello, the supposed home of Guilietta Capelletti, imortalized forever by Shakespeare in Romeo and Juliet. Shakespeare was inspired to write this beloved tragedy from a Sienese legend written in 1476. It originates from the Greek myth of Pyramis and Thisbee, which whispered its way down through the centuries so, by 1476 when it was 're-drafted', the heroes names were changed to Romeo and Guilietta and it was set in 1302 t0 1304.


Whether Romeo really ever stood under this balcony to exclaim to his love “But Soft! What light through yonder window breaks? It is the east, and Juliet is the sun!” or indeed whether this is just an ancient tale is really immaterial. Thousands of tourists visit this 'shrine' every year to post their tales of love to Guilietta and ask for her help in their romantic plights....


I was now one such 'sad' tourist, my sentimental heart having been moved, not so much by the literacy genius of Sir William but more by the more recent Hollywood story 'Letters from Juliet'. Yes, cynics will say this is a silly, romantic comedy about a girl, Sophie, answering a letter written to Juliet over 50 years ago but it has many tender moments. And although, unlike the movie depicts, you can no longer actually post your letters into the wall of Juliet's home, the Secretaries of Juliet, known as Club di Giulietta do exist. Initially this was begun in the 1930's when the guardian at Juliet's tomb, Ettore Solimani, started replying to letters addressed to Juliet. In the 1970's a group was formed by some friends of varying ages and backgrounds (currently there are two men) to write the replies. Then about 28 years ago, the Mayor of Verona asked Giulio Tamassia (the club's President) to officially take care of the letters and reply to them. The secretaries work for free and Verona City Council pays for the postage!  Today you have to write a letter in a book inside the house. So did I write a letter? But of course!!

For I believe in true love. Inspired by the words of the letter written by Sophie, in 'Letters to Juliet', to Claire, who had posted her letter 50 years ago:
"What and If are two words as non-threatening as words can be. But put them together side-by-side and they have the power to haunt you for the rest of your life: What if? What if? What if? I don’t know how your story ends but if what you felt then was true love, then it’s never too late. If it was true then, why wouldn’t it be true now? You need only the courage to follow your heart. I know what a love like Juliet’s feels like – love to leave loved ones for, love to cross oceans for and I hope if you feel it, that you will have the courage to seize it…….
Claire's story, naturally, has a happy ending (this is a movie!) and she returns to Verona to find her first love, her Lorenzo. Well I am fortunate enough not have had to wait as long as 50 years to be with my 'Lorenzo' and he was with me in this beautiful, albeit damp, city of love. I hope all that read this have their own 'Lorenzo' or if not find him soon to 'live happily ever after'!!

The post Letters to Guilietta, in Verona, Italy appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Copenhagen's beautiful glass market; everything and more that you could possibly expect to tempt the taste buds, in fact all the senses at Christmas. The presentation beautiful and quite outstanding.
Sumptuous italian hams, salamis, baby tomatoes, olive oils and breads.

Gingerbread hearts for sale

which could be personalised for your loved ones.

Olive oils and spirits inspired from all over the world.

Danish open faced sandwiches.

Incredible meat markets, offering, amongst other things 'little pig' sausages!

Chocolates like you have never seen, including the Danish speciality Flødeboller

My favorite, Christmas flowers and wreaths

The post Culinary, sensory delights at Copenhagen's glass market appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Genoa is very close to the border with Provence! Within a moment you have sped along the AutoRoute and it becomes the Autostrade and voilà France is behind you and you are in Italy! No passport control, no douane, no barricades, no police, just a dark blue square signpost with the familiar circle of gold stars and the words ‘France’ replaced by ‘Italy’. You are now in a different country! The roads are the same, the trees and plants but quick glimpses of the architecture reminds you that you are somewhere else.

Taller buildings, more compact, with longer, somewhat tattier looking shutters, the provencal ochre, blues and lavenders replaced with duller, more austere shades. The Autostrade hugs the coastline and twines its way along the Italian Riviera, close to the sparkling, beguiling Mediterranean. Small beach towns and fishing villages are frequently signposted, visited along twisting, winding switchbacks, bathed in sunlight beckoning you to sample their espressos, gelatos and pizzas closer to the water. You feel you should be in a convertible car with large sunglasses and a Hermes scarf neatly tied under your chin containing your beautifully coiffured locks, à la Grace Kelly!!

Within 90 minutes you are pulling up outside a smart Italian hotel in the city of Genoa, a bell boy anxiously rushing to relieve you of your luggage as you mutter ‘merci’, stammer and replace it with a ‘grazie’, one of the only 5 words of Italian you know, maybe your French isn’t so feeble after all!!!!

Genoa, sprawling strades, with a tempting indoor food hall, parmesan,

fresh pasta, luscious fruits and vegetables!
Bustling cafes and  stylish people hurrying across magnificent piazzas and Vespas everywhere!

An impressive harbor, complete with a authentic replica of Neptune's  Galleon, appropriate for the city where one of the world's most famous explorers was born - Christopher Columbus!

The post Genoa, vespas, espresso, pasta and Christopher Columbus! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.