We have driven through France, north to south and back, (about 1000km each way), more times than I can remember. As children, both our families took holidays driving through France, often headed for Spain. Slightly crammed between siblings, before cars were air-conditioned, we both had fathers who preferred not to take the auto-routes, so the days in the car were long, yet both of us have cherished memories and a seed was sown. With our own children, especially when we lived in England, we had many holidays driving to France. Today, even though our travels begin in California we always fly to London, to see family and friends and often we then drive to France. Now we keep a car in Lourmarin, we've driven back and forth several times, sometime with just one overnight stop but with so much more of France to explore we prefer to take more time. We could easily spend a few weeks just ambling our way through this beautiful country. And I'm often asked, what route do we take and how do we know where to stay?

I'd like to say that we just stop wherever it takes our fancy, but I'm a planner and would rather know that after a long day in the car we have somewhere to rest our head for the night, preferably with easy parking and a place to eat. My go to resource is the English site Sawdays, always reliable, where we've found anything from a château with a gourmet restaurant to an old mill eating family style with just the owners and sometimes with other guests. We've spent delightful evenings with like minded, interesting people from all over the world all with stories stemming from a shared love of France. If Sawdays doesn't have good options, Hotel Guru have a very good, wide range of recommendations. They use Booking.com as their reservation tool and as a stand alone site Booking.com is good too.

Haunted by childhood trips, lasting about 8 hours, on a cross channel ferry from Southampton to Cherbourg most of which I spent in the bathroom, I was thrilled when in 1994 the Channel Tunnel opened.

Sitting in our car, traveling by car/train, under the sea, rather than over it, is far more preferable and it only takes 30 minutes!

Routes  we've taken~ places to stay & visit

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ Two night stops Solutré-Pouilly (near Maçon) & Champagne

Day 1: First night in Solutré-Pouilly 8 km (5.0 mi) west of Mâcon ~  Journey time from Lourmarin: 3hours 40mins, 350km

Accommodation: La Courtille de Solutre Rte de la Roche, 71960 Solutré-Pouilly, France

A simple, family run, modernized former inn, nestled in the village square of Solutré, in the heart of the stunning Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, with an excellent restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 90-115 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

View from the hotel of the village square of Solutré

Wines from the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation

Visit nearby:

Roche de Solutré

Overlooking the village of Solutré-Pouilly, you can't miss this incredible limestone escarpment, Le Roche de Solutré. We had no idea this rare, geological prehistoric site was there. Occupied by humans for at least 55,000 years, it is also the cradle of the Pouilly-Fuissé wine appellation. It attracted media coverage in the 1980s when President François Mitterrand began making annual ritual ascents up the peak.

Day 2: Second night in the champagne region ~ Journey time, 4hours 15mins, 417km.

Accommodation Lots of great choices on Sawdays, the place we actually stayed has since closed but this area was a good location to stay in giving us time to visit other places on route and its distance to Calais the next day (3 hours, 300km) gave us a 3rd full day to explore.

Visit on route

Dijon: The beautiful medieval city of Dijon, is en-route, and just 1hour 30mins further north. Once the home of the Dukes of Burgundy and today famous for its mustard!

Provins 2hours 50mins 250km northwest of Dijon. The UNESCO heritage site of Provins involved a detour off the most direct route north to the Champagne region but it was well worth it. A jewel of the Champagne fairs, Provins is one of the most authentic and complete 11th, 12th and 13th century medieval towns of Europe.

The city is walled by towering ramparts. its' fortified gates are still intact and remain the entry to the city.

The medieval buildings are beautifully preserved dating back to when Provins was a trading hub and host to major, annual trade fairs.

The 12th century, hilltop César Tower is a prominent site, possible to climb up and explore the ramparts and extensive views across the area.

St Quiriace Collegiate Church, Provins

Provins is an unmissable place to visit in northern France.

Day 3: Champagne Area to Calais ~Journey time, 3hours 300km

Visit on route

The Somme

This was a small detour from the autoroute, one that we've always intended to make. It's World War I heritage is both tragic and humbling, I wrote about it here. It's a place we should all visit and reflect, with so much more to see, we will return.

Battlefields of the Somme

The World War I Museum at Albert

Lochnagar Crater The detonation at Lochnagar, by the village of La Boisselle, on July 1st 1916, signaled the beginning of the Battle of the Somme. The explosion created this enormous crater, approx 30 meters (98 ft) deep and 90 meters (295 ft) in diameter.

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial ~ an incredible Canadian WWI memorial where it is still possible to walk in the original trenches.

Traveling south: Calais to Lourmarin ~ One night stop, Langres

Day 1: Night stop in Langres ~ Journey time from Calais: 5hours 20mins, 515km

Accommodation: Hotel Cheval Blanc 4 Rue de l'Estres. 52200 Langres France

Part of the Logis chain, this is a small, basic hotel, but clean and comfortable with a gourmet restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros  Dinner: 40-50 euros (plus wine) Langres is a great half-way location in the Haute-Marne between Calais and southern France.

Views of the Haute-Marne

Langres is a charming little town famous for being the home of Denis Diderot, father of the Encyclopedia. His statue takes pride of place in Langres' central square .

Day 2: Langres to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5hours 30mins, 545km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop Nitry, Chablis

Day 1: One night stop in Nitry ~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 5hours 18 mins, 545km

Accommodation: Auberge de la Beursaudière 9 Chemin de Ronde, 89310 Nitry, France.

Close to Chablis in Burgundy, this hotel is recommended by Sawdays  ~ a pretty, former priory and collection of farm buildings with wooden verandas topped with patterned Burgundian roof tiles. The simply furnished bedrooms are all decorated in the theme of a local trade; the writer, the laundress, the ploughman, the vintner, etc it’s charming and the staff are warm and friendly. The restaurant is very good and the breakfast excellent. There's a wonderful terrace in the summer, reservations essential.  Rooms per night: 80-120 euros Dinner 25- 40 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

The courtyard at Auberge de la Beursaudière

Day 2: Nitry to Calais ~ Journey time, 5hours, 511km

The vineyards of Chablis

Wine shop in Chablis

Driving south, Calais to Lourmarin ~ One stop Noyers-sur-Serein, Burgundy.

Day 1: One night stop in Noyers-sur-Serein, ~ Journey time from Calais: 5 hours 26 mins, 503 km

Accommodation: Le Prieuré 5, rue de la République, 89310 Noyers-sur-Serein, France.

This gorgeous, former priory sits on the edge of the picturesque village of Noyers-sur-Serein, one of Les beaux village de France. There are five spacious, ensuite bedrooms, decorated in a very eclectic style but beautifully equipped and comfortable. Rooms per night: 130-170 euros including an excellent breakfast. Although there is no restaurant, Le Prieuré's charming owners, Annick and Oliver speak English and are happy to help with restaurant reservations. The village is only a five minute stroll away. Highly recommended

Noyers-sur-Serein ~ allow yourself some time to explore this enchanting little town,

where time seems to have almost stood still.

Day 1: Visit on route

Beaune ~ One of the most splendid town's in Burgundy. Beaune beautifully showcases one of the architectural characteristics of this region, the multi-coloured polychrome roofs. Made of glazed, flat tiles they are carefully laid in colourful patterns. A symbol of prestige, their opulence reflected that of the owner of the building. Initially they covered many of the great 13th century cathedrals and then the princely residences of the 14th century, before becoming available to the rich urban bourgeoisie of the 15th century.

Hospices de Beaune: the wine-makers’ hospital

Beaune's most iconic building, and one of France's most prestigious historic monuments is Hôtel Dieu, or Hospices de Beaune. It was founded in 1443, by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin just as Beaune was coming out of the 100 years war, a period of unrest and plague that had decimated the countryside.

In 1457, Guillemette Levernier made the first gift of vineyards to the Hospices de Beaune, a tradition that was to continue for five centuries. Today, the wine estate is around 60 hectares, of which 50 are devoted to Pinot Noir and the rest to Chardonnay. Beaune and the Burgundy region are a truly beautiful region of France to spend time in.

Day 2: Noyers-sur-Serein to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5.5hours 555km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop in Matougues (south of Reims)

Day 1: Lourmarin to Matougues~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 7 hours 720 km

Accommodation:  Auberge Des Moissons 8 National Road, 51510 Matouges, France

Part of the Logis group, this is a modern, fairly basic hotel conveniently located just minutes from the A26 autoroute. The rooms are spacious and clean, family rooms are available. The on-site restaurant is very good, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 100-135 euros . Great breakfast 12 euros. Dinner 30- 47 euros (plus wine). A comfortable, easy night stop.

Visit on route:

Pérouges ~ One of Les beaux village de France, Pérouges is another delightful, medieval, walled town, 30km northeast of Lyon, in the Ain department. Perched on a small hill it overlooks the plain of the river Ain.

House of The Princes who lived here from 1365

Dole ~  this lovely town in Burgundy, 52km (43 minutes) south east of Dijon in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, is best known for being the birth place of Louis Pasteur, considered to be the father of vaccinations and pasteurisation.

The house in Dole where Louis Pasteur was born, December 27 1822 now a museum.

The Commemorative garden by the Louis Pasteur House

Bust of Louis Pasteur

Day 2: Matougues to Calais ~ journey time 3hours 32okm

Driving south: Lourmarin to Calais via The Normandy Beaches and The Loire Valley ~ Two stops: Crépon, Normandy, Amboise, Loire

Day 1 & 2: Two nights in Crépon, Normandy ~  Journey time from Calais: 3hours 48 mins, 368km

Accommodation Ferme de la Rançonnière, Crépon, Normandy.

A charming 3 star hotel oozing with character and charm. Traditionally furnished, some rooms with four poster beds, several family rooms available. Excellent restaurant reservations advised. Rooms per night: 90-265 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine). Excellent breakfast 16 euros each. Highly recommended.

Visit nearby: The Normandy beaches

Visiting the Normandy beaches from England is not on a direct route to southern France. Many people would choose to take the ferry from England to Le Harve or Cherbourg, but as I said earlier, I prefer the 30 minute crossing under the sea on ‘Le Shuttle, despite the longer drive once in France. We stopped here for 2 nights but could have stayed several more. Normandy is picture postcard pretty and its’ history phenomenal. You can read here about the incredible World War II D-day sites we visited:

Remembering D.Day

The Normandy beaches: D.Day, Operation OverLord

Arromanches and the Normandy Memorials

There is so much to see, including the lovely town of Bayeaux, home of the Bayeaux Tapestry, the 70 meter long tapestry which depicts the Norman conquest of England in 1066.

Further along the coast is the iconic Mont St Michel

Day 3: Pocé-sur-Cisse near Amboise in The Loire Valley ~  Journey time from Crepon, Normandy: 3hours, 311km

Accommodation: Maison de Triboulet 9 Chem. de la Basse Vallerie, 37530 Pocé-sur-Cisse, France

This is a small, 2 bedroom property meticulously renovated, with every possible attention to detail by its charming owners Nathalie and Eric who could not have made us feel more welcome. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros. Dinner: By prior arrangement, Nathalie and Eric will happily cook dinner for you which they serve in their kitchen as if you were their personal guests. Alternatively they can recommend local restaurants. Breakfast is included and is delicious, with home baked croisssants, brioche and preserves. Highly recommended.

Bedroom at Maison de Triboulet

Breakfast at Maison de Triboulet

The hosts Nathalie and Eric

The Châteaux of the Loire

There is the whole of the Loire Valley to explore, its stunning chateau and countryside. You can read a little about it here we could have spent many nights exploring, we will return!

Château du Chaumont

Day 4: Amboise to Lourmarin 7 hours 20 mins 737km

We are always loathe to leave but know it is only au revoir. Do let me know where you have found to stay on your travels through la belle France!

The post Driving through France appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The Floating Harbours at Arromanches

There were many factors contributing to the success of D-Day. Strategic planning, deception and the successful outcome of some of the initial targets was critical, such as Pegasus Bridge, and Point du Hoc. But the major challenge of landing at Normandy was that it had no harbor. The beaches were suitable for landing heavy armor and it was within range of Allied air cover. Once liberated, the Normandy port of Cherbourg would provide vital access for further supplies but there was no where to dock ships and unload vehicles and tanks.

With remarkable intuition, Churchill had discussed this issue back in May 30th 1942, determining that if there was no port, one would have to be built. Huge mulberries comprising of floating roadways and pier heads which would go up and down with the tide were constructed in England, towed across the Channel and assembled off the Normandy coast. Misinformation spread by the Allies helped to ensure that the enemy were expecting an invasion at Calais, not Normandy and Arromanches-les-Bains was chosen to set up Churchill's incredible floating harbor.

Churchill's floating harbor is still visible at the picturesque little town of Arromanches-les-Bains.

Despite the British resources being at breaking point, they completed the work within 9 months. Arromanches was liberated by nightfall on June 6th and the first ships scuttled the next day. In order to avoid rough seas, huge hollow concrete blocks and old hulks were sunk to form a breakwater, by June 8th the first of these Phoenix Caissons had been submerged and on June 14th the first cargoes were unloaded.

Photograph of The Mulberry Harbours at The Arromanches 360 Cinema

The port at Arromanches was totally operational by the beginning of July, so later that month when Montgomery launched his large-scale offensive against Caen, up to 18,000 tonnes of goods were unloaded daily. An incredible engineering feat, this newly created port was the key to victory in Europe.

The remains of the Mulberry Harbours are still on the beach at Arromanches today.

Several dozen Phoenix Caissons continue to provide a calm and sheltered stretch of water.

 D-Day 75 Garden

High on the cliff over looking overlooking Arromanches and the Mulberry Harbors is this new garden memorial. It was designed to pay tribute to the D-Day veterans on the 75th anniversary of D-Day.

The statue depicts 97 year-old Bill Pendell MD looking back at himself as a 22 year-old landing on the beaches 75 years earlier.

The garden was first exhibited in 2019 at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, during The Chelsea Flower Show. It was gifted to the mayor of Arromanches-les-Bains by Field Marshall Montgomery's grand-children to remain as lasting legacy to D-Day.

Arromanches 360 : Circular cinema

The fascinating 360 degree cinema which brings the D-Day story to life is perched just below the D-Day 75 garden. It is well worth a visit. Tickets can be bought online, click here for details

Arromanches Museum

In the town itself, is the Arromanches Museum, also should not be missed. Click here for details

The Normandy Memorials

Visiting The Normandy Memorials like all war memorials and cemeteries is very emotional. The sheer scale of human sacrifice is intensely humbling. It's a debt that can never be repaid.

British Memorial at Normandy

It is hard to believe that until 2019 there was no official British Memorial at Normandy. Situated near the village of Ver-sur-Mer it is managed by the Common Wealth War Graves Foundation.  It was unveiled by The Prince of Wales, on 6 June 2021, the 77th anniversary of D-Day.

The pathway leading to the main monument is flanked with commemorative pillars that tell the Normandy story.

THE BEACHES AND THE BRIDGEHEAD 6 June -15 June 1944

STRUGGLING TO ADVANCE 16 June -30 June 1944

BATTLE FOR CAEN 1 July- 15 July 1944

This incredible story continues as the path way continues towards the main monument

THE BREAK-OUT BEGINS 30 July-15 August 1944

VICTORY IN NORMANDY 16 August-31 August 1944

And then you arrive at the monument's center.

On the main walls words of key World War II leaders have been chosen for each face. On the front, motivational encouragement from Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery's before he led his soldiers into battle:

“To us is given the honor of striking a blow for freedom which will live in history And in the better days that lie ahead men will speak with pride of our doings” Field Marshal B.L. Montgomery

On the opposite side, running up from the beach is a statue of those soldiers.

They are facing the other side of the monument, engraved with Churchill's famous 'We shall fight on the beaches' speech alongside King George VI's inspiring D-Day broadcast:

“Four years ago our nation and empire stood alone against an overwhelming enemy with our backs to the wall tested as never before in our history once more the supreme test has to be faced this time the challenge is not to fight to survive but to win the final victory for the good of all and for a world in which goodness and honor may be the foundation of the life in every land” King George VI June 6 1944

There is also the support offered by Charles de Gaulle from London, aimed specifically at the French:

"The supreme battle has begun . An immense force of attack or to us of assistance has begun to be deployed from the shores of old England. France submerged for four years, but by no means reduced or defeated stands ready to participate. From behind the heavy cloud of our blood and our tears the sun of our grandeur is starting to reappear.”  Charles de Gaulle June 6 1944

And then there are the names. Thousands of brave British soldiers who lost their lives, for all of us, on the beaches of Normandy............

Harry Billinge

One of the soldiers who landed on Gold Beach all those years ago, was a young 17 year-old soldier, Harry Billinge. Harry survived while all around him his friends fell. He has never forgotten them and throughout his life Harry strived continually to champion the building of this memorial. He was able to be here when it was opened and only passed away a few weeks before my own visit. Much loved by all who knew him and a hero of Normandy you can read his heartfelt tribute here.

Like all the Normandy memorials, it is free to visit this thought provoking, astounding place, sat above the beach known as 'Gold Beach' on D-day. Click here for more information

The Canadian Memorial

The Canadian War Cemetery, is situated about 11km east of the British Memorial, closer to Caen, at Bény-sur-Mer.

At this beautiful, tranquil spot we remember Canadian soldiers from the ‘Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada House’, now known simply as Canada House.

The Canadians landed at 'Juno Beach'.

The 2,049 Canadians who lie here were killed either on that beach or during the subsequent month-long Battle of Caen, or were executed while prisoners of war.

This immaculately kept memorial with its beautiful plants and shrubs is one of two Commonwealth burial grounds also maintained by the The Commonwealth War Graves Commission devoted to Canadians. Click here for more information

The second memorial can be found at the Juno Beach Centre and memorial park near Courseulles-sur-Mer. The centre runs its own guided tours of the museum and the beach, and the German beach defences there can be visited underground (April to October) Click here to learn more

The American Normandy Memorial and Cemetery

The American Normandy Memorial is at Colleville-sur-Mer. If you were driving along the coast you'd probably visit the Canadian Memorial first (45km to the east of the American) then the British (27km east) before continuing to the American. Situated above Utah Beach where the Americans landed there is an informative museum which tells the American's D-Day story. The memorial is run by the American Battle Monuments Commission

The entrance to the memorial gardens is stunning.

Like the other memorials, the American memorial looks down 'Omaha Beach' one of the D-Day beaches where the Americans Landed, 'Utah Beach' being the other.

The thousands of white crosses are a stark reminder of the tragic loss of life. Like their British and Canadian allies these young American boys landed in Normandy with no thought of personal gain but to fight for the freedom of the world. The fighting on Omaha beach on D-Day was one of the the bloodiest with over 3000 casualties.

The memorial pays tribute to those soldiers. Click here for more information about visiting this site.

Ultimately the Allies were successful, the careful planning, deception and strategy meant that three months after D-Day, Normandy was captured, it marked the beginning of the end. Yet the loss of life which the memorials attest to, was horrendous.

There are many other sites to visit at Normandy which remember what happened there on D-Day.  Click here to learn more and plan your visit.

words of General Bradley spoken about the landings, which I read at the American memorial, will remain with me and seem an appropriate way to end this post:

"The battle belonged that morning to the thin, wet line of khaki that dragged itself ashore on the channel coast of France" 

General Omar Bradley US First Army Commander June 6 1944

A line of khaki we should never forget.....

The post Arromanches and The Memorials of Normandy appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

D-Day, June 6 1944, known by the brilliant strategists that oversaw it as 'Operation Overlord', is perhaps one of the most meticulously researched and planned military operations ever executed. An immortal day, forever written in the sands of time that mercifully changed the fate of the world in the battle to overcome oppression. Four years earlier, faced with impossible odds and standing almost entirely alone, the newly elected British prime minister, Winston Churchill, had inspired his nation and perhaps the entire world that, whatever the cost, he would lead them in this battle for freedom. It was a promise that he kept.

“...... we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender.”  Winston Churchill June 4 1940

No matter the length of time that has passed or the number of times one visits, the momentous sacrifice and achievement of Normandy remains both humbling and astoundingly impressive. Never more so than this time with my eighty-seven year old mother, watching her at the British Normandy Memorial gazing up at the statue of the soldiers, remembering her father who fought and the war that stole her childhood.

Gazing out across the calm waters and clear skies on an early summer morning it seemed almost impossible that this was the stage for such terrifying theatre.

Then the horizon flickered and you could almost hear the chilling noise of battle, imagining the horrific assault that took place here nearly eighty years ago when thousands of Allied troops landed on the Normandy Beaches. Assaulted by heavy gunfire, battling through the waves, their boots sinking into the sand, surrounded by the agonized cries of the dying and stench of death they stormed these shores.

A photograph from the Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

With the fate of the entire free world resting on their shoulders, supported throughout the day by Allied naval and air services, sixty two thousand British soldiers landed on Gold and Sword Beaches, fourteen thousand Canadians on Juno Beach and seventy three thousand Americans on Omaha and Utah Beaches.

Against all odds, with an armor of courage and determination, these predominantly very young men plundered through rapidly expanding, watery, graveyards, knowing at any moment they could fall into the same final resting place. By nightfall thousands of lives had been sacrificed but the door to liberation had been opened, the battle for Normandy begun.

Pegasus Bridge

Pegasus Bridge, (originally called the Bénouville Bridge after its neighbouring village), was one of the first objectives of the entire Normandy invasion. Along with the bridge over the River Orne bridging the gap between Caen and the sea, these bridges were of immense strategic importance.

The replica of the original bridge at the Pegasus Bridge Memorial

Just after the clock struck midnight on the dawn of June 6th 1944, six Horsa gliders carrying assault troops were cast off from a Halifax tug aircraft six miles from their target.

Painting at The Pegasus Bridge Memorial of Horsa gliders landing at Pegasus Bridge

Within the first thirty minutes of the D-Day operation, the bridges were captured by the 2nd (Airborne) Battalion Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire light Infantry, (part of the 6th Airborne Division) led by Major John Howard. The precision and courage of these pilots is considered one of the war's finest feats of airman ship.

None of the existing gliders remain in existence but in 2002 the D-Day Commemoration Committee financed a full-sized replica.

During the Normandy Landings a total of three hundred & eighteen Horsa gliders landed with the 6th British Airborne Division. These gliders could transport up to thirty troops with a jeep and trailer or six pound anti-tank gun, motorbikes and bicycles.

This photograph of Pegasus Bridge shows the three Horsa gliders in the background. The trees to the right were later cut down and used as decking for the Bailey bridges across the River Orne and Caen Canal.

Photograph at The Pegasus Beach Memorial of the original Pegasus Bridge on D-Day

For information about visiting The Pegasus Bridge Memorial click here

The Atlantic Wall

Field Marshal Erwin Rommel masterminded the defenses of Europe with a vast network of coastal fortifications known as the 'Atlantic Wall'. Built between 1943 -1944 they covered 1670 miles from The North Cape in Norway to the border between Spain and France. The strongest fortifications faced Great Britain. There were also thousands of sea and land mines and long range artillery capable of shooting up to twenty five miles known as ‘Rommel’s Asparagus’. In addition to the natural obstacles of the weather, sea and steep cliffs these defenses had to be overcome.

The Merville Coast Battery

The fortified Merville Coast Battery were part of Rommel's defenses. Its guns protected Sword Beach and had to be eliminated before the D-Day landings could take place.

Rommel's 'Atlantic Wall' fat the Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

Early on D-Day at 0.05, seven hundred men from the British Parachute Battalion were dropped scattering over many miles, only hundred and fifty of them landed on target.

Photograph at Pegasus Bridge Memorial of a Paratrooper from Britain's 9th Parachute Battalion

With only one medium machine gun, no mortars or mine detectors and a minimum number of explosives these paratroopers heroically overran the enemy. Just half of them survived, one thousand men from the 6th Airborne division were killed.

Pointe-Du-Hoc

In addition to Pegasus Bridge the other critical place needing to be captured on D-Day was Pointe-Du-Hoc. Before the war Pointe -du-Hoc was a quiet, coastal spot which the Germans had transformed into a fortified stronghold protecting a battery of heavy guns.

The Cliffs at Pointe-du-Hoc and craters created by allied bombardments

The Germans had planned to build six gun 155mm coastal gun casements at Pointe-du-Hoc to protect their guns and the soldiers.

The remains of a German gun emplacements at Pointe-du-Hoc

However Allied bombardment and sabotage by the French Resistance meant there were only two completed by D-Day.

Inside a German gun emplacement at Pointe-Du-Hoc

This heavily defended point upon the cliffs had artillery with a range of twelve miles with the potential to destroy both ships and soldiers on Omaha and Utah beaches. Seizing Pointe-du-Hoc was one of the highest priorities on D-Day.

The tip of Pointe-du-Hoc

Its' strategic position on a narrow outcrop made an attack from the rear or a parachute drop almost impossible. An assault from the front up the perilous cliff faces below the beach was the only choice.

The cliff faces at Pointe-Du-Hoc

Following an extensive naval bombardment, the Germans were ready to attack the small landing craft carrying two hundred and twenty five men from the 2nd US Ranger Battalion. Under the command of Colonel James E. Rudder it arrived in the early morning of June 6 1944. Battling fierce gunfire and hand grenades the rangers launched their grappling hooks and rope ladders scaling the 90 foot surrounding cliffs and within twenty five minutes one hundred and fifty survivors had seized Pointe-Du-Hoc. A foothold in Normandy had been established and the liberation of France begun.

Once the Rangers had overcame the enemy they found Allied bombing raids had damaged one of the enemy guns which the Germans had replaced with wooden dummies. In addition, the guns pointing at Utah beach were unmanned. However the rangers were cornered against the clifftop of this tiny coastal spot and had to fight for two days until 8 June when tanks came to their rescue. By then there were just ninety men left.

The Memorial at Pointe-Du-Hoc

For information to visit Pointe-du-Hoc click here

Operation Fortitude

One of the contributing factors of the success of the D-Day landings was the elaborate web of deception, spun by the allies, ahead of time. Operation Fortitude involved setting up phantom field armies opposite occupied locations in Norway and Calais and helped to convince the Nazis that this was where the attack would take place.

Hundreds of fake parachutes were dropped away from the Normandy Beaches to divert attention.

German double agents working for the Allies fed false information. Deception went as far as using an Australian actor, Lieutenant M. Clifton James, to impersonate Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery. James was placed in locations to mask Montgomery’s true location.

The battle for Normandy did not end on June 6^th but took three, long grueling months. The loss of life was devastating especially on D-Day itself. After four, miserable years of occupation, despite the subsequent terrible events the French welcomed the Allies. But liberation came at a severe cost. As troops advanced towards Paris in August 1944, 225 000 were dead, wounded or missing; 134 000 Americans, 91 000 British, Canadian and Poles and 18 000 French civilians. The Germans had more than 400 000 casualties as they retreated across France.

Lives sacrificed in the name of liberty so future generations could live in freedom. How tragic that a similar bitter fight for democracy against evil and tyranny is occurring right now in Ukraine.

This has been a long post, thank you for staying with me there's much more to share. Next time I will take you to Normandy's cemeteries and memorials, an enduring testament to the brave and courageous, those who made the ultimate sacrifice, for each and everyone of us......

The post D-Day: Operation Overlord ~ The Normandy Beaches appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We continued our exploration of the Aveyron, weaving our way through the lush countryside with its deep red earth. We stopped off in more of the region's story book villages, (all one of 'Les Plus Beau Villages de France' ) where we unravelled a little more of the remarkable history of this lovely part of France. An hours drive north of our hotel, Château de Labro, we visited the medieval village of Conques and gazed in wonder at the gold relic of Saint Foy. The following day, traveling south back towards Montpellier, we found ourselves surrounded by the hills and gorges of the Tarn in Le Parc naturel régional des Grands Causses, a stunning UNESCO parkland. Here we sampled it's famous  cheese, made in the park's nearby caves. Our final stop was a step back in time where we learnt the fascinating story of the Orders of The Knights Templars and Knights Hospitaller.

Salles La Source

Salles La Source is a picturesque village nestled in the foothills of the Causse Comtal. It clings to the cliff on over three stories winding its way up to meet a rolling plateau up on the higher elevations.

The Cascade waterfall is its famous landmark, uniquely situated in the center of the village.

Conques

Conques is a simple, but breathtaking monastic village which tumbles over the edge of a wild gorge by the River Dourdou. As you wander its tiny streets it feels as if you've stepped into a fairy tale.

Narrow passageways wind their way through the village,

and steep cobbled steps lead you down toward the villages's focal point, The Abbey of Saint Foy.

The Abbey of Sainte Foy, visible from every vista, is on one of the pilgrimage routes to Saint-Jacques- de-Compostelle, a Catholic pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, the alleged burial site of the Apostle St James.

The hushed cloisters of The Abbey's unadorned interior mystically adds to its magnificence.

In the adjoining Abbey Chapter building rests 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', a masterpiece relic statuette. The dedication of relics was commonplace in the Middle Ages but this one is particularly stunning, well worth the small admission charge to view it.

Only 85 cm high, 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', is made of yew, covered with gold, gilded silver, enamel and set with gems. It enshrines the skull of Saint Foy, a twelve year old, Catholic martyr who was tortured for refusing to renounce his faith. Legend has it that in 995 a miracle occurred when a blind pilgrim prayed to Saint Foy and had his sight restored. Pilgrims subsequently flocked to visit the relic, which, in the 12th century led to the rebuilding of the original abbey. This was later replaced by the great romanesque abbey we see today. Every year, on the Sunday following October 6 (feast of Saint Foy), The Majesty of Saint Foy', is transferred from its exhibition place, next to the abbey  and placed inside the abbey itself.

Timber framed buildings line the small square outside the Abbey hanging from the street above it.

Conques was perhaps the most impressive of all 'les plus beau villages' we visited in the Aveyron, an impression perhaps helped by the delicious steak frites we enjoyed in the warm sunshine below the Abbey's towering face.

Brousse le Château

Dating back to the 13th century this veritable fortress, like others of its kind, was built to protect its occupants from local invasions and during The Hundred Years War, from 1337, from the English!

The keep and towers of the ramparts which remain in good condition, are fine examples of late fifteenth century architecture.

We wandered the surrounding streets, seemingly deserted despite the evidence that people still lived there.

The village shop was a wonderfully preserved example of a timber framed, medieval building.

Roquefort-sur-Soulzon

Situated in the Grands Causses Regional Natural Park, at the foot of the Combalou mountain, are the caves used to ripen the cheese, Roquefort Société.

The caves were created over a million years ago after the mountain collapsed. Cracks, known as fleurines were left in these caves creating a natural thermal regulation. The caves were first used in the Middle ages, restored in the 17th century and then enlarged by the Roquefort Société, a brand created in 1842 which brought together fifteen local merchants and refiners.

Roquefort is made from the unpasteurized milk of local Lacaune Ewes between January and July. Reportedly, this creamy, blue veined cheese was discovered when a young shepherd boy left his cheese in one of the caves by mistake; when he remembered and came to collect it he found far from being ruined, the cheese had improved, the natural conditions of the caves had enhanced its taste. Today micro-organisms found in penicillium roqueforti are added to the milk before the cheese is formed. Roquefort Société is the only cheese maker that produces all its penicillium on site.

The caves are 11 stories high with fleurines on every level.

The cheese is ripened in the stone cellars which can holding up to 300, 000 loaves of cheese and as many as 1, 400, 000 in an entire season. The cheese loaves are placed by hand on the salted wooden shelves, the air being constantly renewed by the natural fleurines.

It is here that the penicillium roqueforti develops. The salt melts and is diffused and the cheese becomes creamy. Taking between 14-25 days, the cellar master plays a key role in the process.

All the attributes of this unique environment, the stone, the wood and wind from the fleurines, play an essential role in making the distinctive cheese we know today.

Roquefort Société World War II heros

In 1942, the managing directors of the Roquefort Société, Léon Freychet and Jean Bosc, together with some others opened a 'youth hostel' in nearby Tendigues to hide people, weapons and supplies for the Resistance.

When the Village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon was invaded on January 1st 1944, Bosc and Freychet escaped. Freychet was later captured and sent to Buchenwald Concentration Camp. He survived, and on his return from Buchenwald was instrumental in creating the company's worker's committee, a research laboratory and a training center for young shepherds.

La Couvertoirade in Larzac, the county of the Templars

La Couvertoirade lies in the Larzac Valley about 45km south of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon still in the Parc natural regional des Grands Causses.

Outside the village by the ramparts is La Cour Neuve (The New Yard), built between 1439-1445 during the Hundreds Years War. It was here that goods for the village were unloaded and through the centuries it was where the consuls gathered for public meetings.

Entering the village under the archway, to then walk along the medieval streets, one is immediately  plunged back into the past.

La Couvertoirade is one of several villages founded by The Knights Templar and then fortified by The Knights Hospitallers.

The Knights Templar were formed in 1118 by Hugh de Payens, a knight from the Champagne region of France to protect pilgrims traveling to The Holy Land. In 1128 the Treaty of Troyes gave them official approval and for 150 years they grouped together around settlements such as La Couvertoirade. The Order prospered acquiring land and many new noble members. But, in 1312, it was abolished by the Pope and all its possessions were given to the Knights Hospitaller of St. John of Jerusalem.

The Hospitaller were a military order established around 1070 to manage a hospital for sick pilgrims in Jerusalem. In 1310 they had become the Knights of Rhodes. They enriched the villages of the Larzac region until the 16th century when they were taken over by the Hugenots. From 1530 they were known as the Knights of Malta. They wore a black habit, with a white eight-pointed Maltese Cross. Some members later moved to Russia where the order collapsed in the early 1800’s. In the 1830’s the Order was restored in England and still remains today caring for the sick.

Lodève

Our last stop in Larzac, the county of the Hospitaller, was Lodève where we visited St Fulcran Cathedral, a Gothic 13th and 14th century cathedral dedicated to St-Géniez and then St Fulcran.

Our trip ended in Arles back in Provence. An hour from home we stopped and eat dinner under the Roman arches of this beautiful city's amphitheatre.  Inspired by the Roman Coliseum it was built in 90AD and is still in use today. So much history in this mystical part of France.

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Just under a three hours drive north west of Lourmarin lies the Aveyron region of southern France. A place of mystical fairy-tale châteaux, (we were fortunate enough to stay in one), medieval villages, gothic cathedrals, and a past where swash buckling knights fought to protect their land. A rich, verdant landscape where sheep and cattle graze happily just below the Massif Central. A region suddenly more accessible in the 21st century by the completion of the breathtaking Millau Viaduct.

Millau Viaduct

The Millau Viaduct, an incredible feat of engineering, spanning the Tarn Valley, it is the tallest viaduct and bridge in the world, forming part of the A75 from Paris to Béziers and Montpellier. It was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster and French engineer, Michel Virlogeux  and was built by Eiffage. After 14 years of preparation, it took just three years to build and opened in 2004 at cost of 400 million euros.

Award winning and internationally acclaimed, the viaduct is often referred to as 'the structure which broke all records'. It is 2460 meters long and spans 242 meters, the Eiffel Tower could fit sideways between its two piers. Its steel deck weighs 36000 tonnes, the equivalent of 5100 African elephants. Its pylons are 87m high, equivalent to a 29-storey building and as the world's tallest bridge it rises 343 meters into the clouds, 19 meters taller than the Eiffel Tower.

Château de Labro

Hidden down a quiet, leafy lane an hour away, near the cathedral city of Rodez, we found our way to the 16th century Château de Labro. Our 'home' for a few nights whilst we explored this intriguing corner of France.

Our bedroom was in the original part of the old château, our bathroom in the turret.

A spiral, 'Rapunzel' staircase led up to our room,

through the château's Games Room,

into our sumptuously decorated bedroom.

The turret bathroom was perhaps a little different to navigate, with its hand-held shower over the toilet, becoming a true wet room once used!

Boasting a rich history of plots and intrigue, sadly the château became neglected. But, in 2002, Jean and Nizou Rouquet fell under its spell and embarked on an extensive restoration to bring it back to life.

Some of the bedrooms are in the lovely adjoining building, by the Spa and other receptions room.

Great care has been taken to create an authentic but luxurious place to stay. The exterior details are a subtle but charming nod to the past.

A clever blending of old and new,

with reminders of the château's rural setting.

The château is now run by the Rouquet' son, Michel, who hopes its visitors will be able to relax, surrounded by the serenity of the château and its carefully chosen furnishings and fixtures and the beauty of the surrounding Aveyron countryside.

Sauveterre de Rouergue

The Aveyron is home to several 'Plus Beaux Villages de France'. Sauveterre de Rouergue was the first one we visited. A charming medieval village, dating back to 1281, it is located in the heart of Ségala, the land of a hundred valleys, between Rodez and Albi.

The central square with its 47 arches, edged with timber framed and stone houses is a delightful place to sit and become immersed in the age-old ambience.

One can almost hear the clatter of small carts as people from a bygone era hurry across the cobbles below the arches to the market.

Belcastel

Thirty minutes to the north of Sauveterre de Rouergue lies Belcastel, also a 'Plus Beau Village de France'.

The magnificent fortress of Château de Belcastel, perched on a giant rock face, dates back over 1000 years. Initially it was a 9th century chapel which grew in size as generations of knights and nobles made their mark. It was abandoned in the 16th century until 1973, when renowned architect, Ferdinand Pouillon, began an eight year restoration process to make it his private home. An incredible historical landmark, the family still welcomes visitors to admire its art gallery, medieval armor and enjoy its stunning panoramic views.

Crossing the medieval bridge to the church,

one is reminded of the power that religion played in people's lives.

This place of worship, a short stroll across the water, might have been small but its importance in this tiny, medieval village, would have been immense for hundreds of years.

Rodez

Our explorations for the day finished back in Rodez, the capital of the Aveyron region, in the north east of the Midi- Pyrenees region, between the foothills of the Massif Central and the plains of the southwest.

Set on a hill, Rodez's gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame dominates the skyline. Its intricately carved tower reaching up above the old narrow streets. Inside it is just as magnificent.

The city squares are flanked by fine medieval and renaissance buildings built from either local creamy pale limestone or red sandstone, like these city walls.

We returned to our château, a short drive from this lovely city, to dinner and wine in the hotel restaurant, wondering what we'd discover the following day on our continued exploration of the Aveyron.

Map from Lourmarin

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It's Christmas Eve, Christmas is so close you can almost touch it. Homes everywhere are bedecked with Christmas finery, refrigerators bulge with Christmas indulgence, for most of us the shopping's been done and the presents wrapped. Where did you shop this year? I was fortunate enough to visit the Cologne Christmas market, glittering beneath the mighty spires of the magnificent Cologne Cathedral it exceeded all expectations!

Cologne has hosted a Christmas market since 1820. There are several markets but the biggest and most famous fills the Roncalliplatz. Huddled beside the resplendence of Cologne’s cathedral, over 150 stalls sparkle and entice. Open from the last week in November until the night before Christmas Eve it thrills the several million eager Christmas shoppers who visit it each year from all across the globe.

The German Christmas markets are world famous. I've been to Christmas markets in Belgium, England and of course in France and although I've enjoyed the Christmas market in Aix-en-Provence, elsewhere I've been fairly underwhelmed. I was actually in Germany for work and after a fairly long day never mind my usual struggle with jet lag , despite it being about forty minutes away by train, the Cologne Christmas market seemed just too close to miss. It really was wunderbar, I hope I've succeeded in capturing some of its splendour below.

Christmas decorations and gifts to buy

Natural products with fire cones and cinnamon sticks.

Traditional decorative Christmas villages

Christmas baubles and decorations for the Christmas tree

Sweets and candies

Mistletoe for sale

and locally made gin!

Strudel bakers in traditional dressed looking as if they've just stepped from a Christmas card.

Delicious baked sweet treats

Cosy cabins to nestle in and sip your gluhwein

Everything sparkling with Christmas festivity and magic

If you missed the Cologne Christmas Market this year it will be back in 2020, click here for details. Maybe you've visited a Christmas market somewhere that you've loved, do let me know I'd love to hear about it.

And finally, Happy Christmas to you all. Thank you for following my blog, I hope you continue to do so in the coming year and may 2020 be filled with joy and peace for you all, in which ever corner of the world you may be!

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It seems extraordinarily fitting that today November 11th, Remembrance Day, I should be writing about our recent visit to World War I memorials of the Somme in northern France. Thinking there was little time to spare I'm ashamed that we've previously driven past the signs on the Autoroute notifying us of its proximity. I’ve seen the heartbreaking movies, I've read the books filled with tragedy but nothing could have prepared me for the emotion I felt standing in the fields where this wicked annihilation had occurred.

Today just a field, then the scene of a senseless loss of life.

Musée Somme 1916~ Albert

One of the museums telling the story of this terrible slaughter is Musée Somme 1916, in Albert, in the Somme department of the region of Hauts-de-France, used by the British as a garrison town during World War I. Set within the corridors of a 13th century Basilica it was an air raid shelter in WWII. On the anniversary of the Battle of the Somme, July 1st 1992, it opened as museum, its' underground corridors housing the chilling reminders of a war that should never have happened.

Millions of young men, who in the cause of something no-one could clearly explain to them but in the name of a country they loved, stood up and within seconds fell down....

Most lasted barely a few seconds their bodies ripped to shreds by gunfire and shrapnel.

Gone forever to rot among the mud, the barb wire and the blood. Tiny bright red drops of colour splashed along the edges of the fields where they fought, immortalised by the poppies we remember them by today.

Imagining the Generals back in the safety of their lofty war command offices pushing small wooden blocks across a map with little comprehension that each shove meant the annihilation of thousands, I felt angry. In front of the memorials reading the personal tributes and recollections of the few that survived  I felt humbled.

Cecil Lewis & the Lochnagar crater

Cecil Lewis was one such survivor.  A British fighter ace who fought in both world wars, he was  a remarkable man, a co- founder of the BBC, an author, an Oscar winner and at the age 94 was still flying.

On July 1st 1916 the young Cecil Lewis was instructed to fly over the Somme to report on British troop movements. His tiny aircraft was splattered with mud as from overhead he watched the explosion of the Lochnagar mine.

One of the incredible feats of World War was the long stretches of tunnels dug by the tunnelling companies of the Royal Engineers. Men recruited from coal miners and London underground workers dug tunnels ranging from 30 to 120 feet deep into which deadly explosives were laid to breach the enemy lines.

The most significant crater was Lochnagar Crater at the village of La Boisselle. Dug by the 179th Tunnelling Company, the Lochnagar mine shaft was sunk 400 feet behind the British Front line and 1000 feet from the German. The work was perilous and arduous, barely 17 feet being dug a day. As the German front loomed closer, progress slowed, the men working in silence and barefooted over sandbags used to quell the noise.

On July 1st 1916 at 07.28 hours along with the explosion at Y-Sap, the detonation at Lochnagar signaled the beginning of the Battle of the Somme. The explosion at Lochnagar created a crater 98 feet deep with a diameter of 295 feet.

Standing at the Lochnagar Memorial Crater I read the eye witness account Cecil Lewis had given the BBC some seventy years later.

Two minutes after the mines exploded the 34th Division, few of whom had ever been on a battleground before scrambled from the relative safety of their trenches. Crossing the 800 yards to the German wire 75% of these men instantly became casualties, decimated in no-man's land, the few survivors staggering for refuge within the Lochnagar crater. The reinforcements from the Tyneside Scottish and Tyneside Irish which bravely followed were similarly cut down, besieged by ferocious enemy gunfire. The 34th Division alone took 6,500 casualties. What was it all for....

Thoughts from survivor Private Harry Patch

Nineteen year old Harry Patch ,(1898-2009) one of only five survivors from the Third Battle Ypres, kept his silence for 80 years but at the age of 100 he eventually spoke out:

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial

We left the Lochnagar Crater with heavy hearts to visit the only site, just a few miles away, where it is still possible to clearly see and even step inside the trenches, the Canadian Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial.

Expertly run by charming, fresh-faced young Canadians, the same age as those that gave their all a hundred years earlier, we stood in the remnants of the trenches and looked across the tiny stretch of land that was fought over. The words of Harry Patch ran in our ears. 'It wasn't worth it', the utter pointlessness of it, millions of lives sacrificed for what?

And after all that loss and suffering to think that barely twenty years later it happened all over again. This part of France enduring a second occupation, the desperate fear and misery of war on their doorsteps once more. The slaughtering of the innocent, loved ones lost forever, hearts broken, lives torn apart, the sickening devastation of war.

And tragically today, not on the fields of northern France but on different stretches of land over different issues such horror still persists. Cruelty, intolerance, prejudice and ignorance remaining a sickness in people's hearts.

I urge you to visit these graves, the museums and memorials and remember the sacrifices that were given. Take your children, your grandchildren, your friends, tell everyone you know about them.

This is just a snap shot of what there is to see both here and on other European war-time sites including those I've previously written about, The Normandy Beaches  and Oradour-sur-Glane.

And never forget, in the immortal words of Laurence Binyon, those that shall not grow old, fallen in the cause of the free …..

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Turreted medieval castles towering over hillsides which tumble down into bountiful plateaus resplendent with vineyards, along which is threaded a mighty, twisting river peppered with a collection of picturesque, medieval villages. The former stage for swashbuckling adventurers, elegant ladies in flowing gowns and knights in shining armor led by victorious Barons and Kings. It's the stuff of fairy tales and small wonder the chosen film set to retell the long ago stories of heroes and heroines like Richard the Lion Heart, Joan of Arc and Eleanor, Queen of France and England. This is the Dordogne département in the Aquitaine region of south west France where we spent a blissful few days a couple of weeks ago.

Bordeaux

Within the Aquitaine lies some of France's most prestigious wine growing areas, the splendid city of Bordeaux in the far west, lending its name to many of these vintages. It is a city not to be missed, the Cathédrale Saint-André being one of its many breathtaking sights.

Saint-Émilion

Châteaux and vines surround Bordeaux in every direction, including world famous Saint-Émilion, 50km to the east.

Monbazillac

A further 50km along the meandering Dordogne River, close to the pretty historic town of Bergerac, lies the stunning Château de Monbazillac, one of the finest example of 16th century architecture in this Périgord region.

Sat majestically above the Bergerac Valley it has panoramic views.

Dating back to 1550, its stunning ramparts perfectly encapsulate the defensive style of the Middle Ages. Inside, over twenty of its rooms and cellars can still be explored today, showcasing a splendid collection of Renaissance art. Click here for hours and information

Basking in a gentle climate and surrounded by rich, fertile land it's small wonder that Château de Monbazillac produces such excellent vintages from the lovingly tended vineyards which encircle it.

Today the château is managed and owned by the wine cooperative of Monbazillac and is open for tours daily throughout the year.

Issiegac

About 15km to the south-east, lies the delightful medieval village of Issiegac. Like many of its neighbours it boasts a rich history; it is the site of a Gallo-Romain Villa, a 10th century monastery linked to the Abbey of Sarlat and the majority of its buildings date back to the 13th and 16th centuries.

Wandering through Issigeac's narrow, winding streets, lined with ancient buildings, hemmed haphazardly together, it feels like you've stepped back in time.

Don't miss its Sunday morning market, one of the area's best and if you can drive there in a real French car with plenty of room for all your purchases, so much the better!

Monpazier

A little further along from Issigeac, north of the Dordogne River, is Monpazier, a gorgeous 600 year old bastide town, one of Les plus beaux villages du France. Founded in 1284 by Edward 1 of England, Monpazier's expansive medieval market square, fringed by its golden stone arches, is almost completely preserved, as is the market hall still with its weighing and measuring apparatus.

Once entirely surrounded by thick defensive walls with six large stone gateways through the walls, today two remain; one in the north of the town and one in the south.

Monpazier is a truly special place, encapsulating the best of the Dordogne area.

As the Dordogne river twists and turns, nestled alongside its banks are beautiful spots like Beynac-et-Cazenac. Flowing into the sea near Bordeaux, over the centuries, particularly after the Hundred Years War, a thriving river trade developed transporting the bounties of the region, especially wine, to England and beyound.

The delightful, medieval town of Sarlat-la-Canéda is nearby, famous for many local delicacies including its controversial but much sought after foie gras.

All food, of course, features heavily on a trip to any part of France and this was no exception. We enjoyed some exceptional, incredibly presented dishes  ~ this was just an 'extra' served with coffee!

Our trip was made more special by our excellent tour guides who led the way in their gorgeous, vintage XK20 Jaguar (they also own the 2cv in which we collected our croissants each morning!) Thank you dear friends, we look forward to returning soon.

To learn more about the Dordogne and surrounding area visit Travel France Online

an excellent resource to help you plan your trip!

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During World War II thousands of ordinary, hard working people were snatched from their homes in Amsterdam to be deported to the Nazi concentration camps. Of the 107,000 dutch Jews deported as part of the Holocaust in Amsterdam, barely 2000 survived. This is the story of one such ordinary man, Abraham Reiss who was sent to Sobibor, immortalised  by his grandson, actor and artist Jeroen Krabbé; in a series of paintings, using the memoirs of Jules Schelvis'  'Sobibor: A History of a Nazi Death Camp' this is the story of 'The Demise of Abraham Reiss'.

Abraham Reiss was born in Amsterdam on November 2 1873. Clever and talented he worked hard to make his fortune in the diamond trade. He married, had 2 daughters and in 1920 moved to a large house in upscale Oosterpark. His family lived a comfortable life, looked after by servants enjoying several holidays a year, until 1929 when Abraham lost everything in the world economic crisis. The family were forced to move to Amsterdam's Jekerstraat district which on the eve of WWII was home to about 17,000 Jews.

On June 20 1943, during the Holocaust in Amsterdam, the Nazis carried out an unexpected raid on Jewish homes in Amsterdam, Abraham was snatched from his home and sent to Westerbork, the holding camp for people about to be deported.

On 6 July 1943 Abraham, along with hundreds of others, bordered a train bound for Sobibor on Poland's far Eastern border with Ukraine. Sobibor was an extermination camp, where from April 1942 to October 1943 over 170,000 Jews were murdered, normally within just three hours of their arrival.

On the train people were crammed together in conditions not fit for animals. Desperate and terrified, Abraham suffered this horrific journey for three, impossibly long, grueling days.

Finally Abraham's train arrived at Sobibor. On disembarking, after three torturous days in near darkness, Abraham shielded his eyes from the sudden bright daylight twisting his body away from the reception committee, wild, scavenging dogs who often attacked and killed the prisoners as they staggered off the train.

Within about an hour of his arrival Abraham was forced to strip naked, humiliated and ashamed, never before having been naked in front of others. Depicted in this painting with his arms outspread, almost like Jesus on the Cross, with his hands larger than they really were to emphasize his total surrender, the absolute acknowledgement that there was no escape, that death was inevitable. In the background people are just about visible watching from behind the fence. The watch tower is shown to illustrate that there were those who knew what was about to occur, the mass murder in a gas chamber, the building shown to the right. In the bottom right corner, not visible on this copy, a gaggle of geese were painted, also of grim significance.

Jeroen knows that geese were kept at Sobibor from studying Jules Schelvis' book 'Sobibor: A History of a Nazi Death Camp' 'Shortly after starting work on the first day, the prisoner Petsjerski heard the sound of honking geese... A transport had come in and the animals were used to drown out the screaming of the victims in the gas chambers'.  Jules Schelvis

In this final painting the geese depict the guilt of the horrendous crime just committed, painted red to represent the blood of the perished. The markings on the trees are hundreds of watching eyes. The smoke from the burning furnaces are the hopeless wails of those who have just died. Although not clear here, to the left is a fence built like a 'S' which the prisoners had to stumble through, curved so that the actual door to the gas chamber was not visible until there were upon it.....

All nine of Jeroen Krabbé's paintings 'The Demise of Abraham Reiss' can be seen at Amsterdam's National Holocaust Museum. They are barely done justice here, the clever use of mixed styles, of different textures and use of materials such as straw and gravel to mirror the real conditions.

This story, part of theHolocaust in Amsterdam, must never be forgotten, not ever, for we can never allow such evil to happen again.

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Wandering the bustling streets of Amsterdam, jostled by a never-ending ribbon of bicycles, I gaze up in wonder at the distinctive architecture, soaking up the story of this great city; its museums and historic sights. I visit one which stirs my soul; the Anne Frank Huis. It leads me to follow a trail of terror during the Holocaust in Amsterdam, a time when a thick cloud of ignorance and unspeakable cruelty gripped this beautiful city, when aeroplanes droned overhead and the goose step of stomping Nazi soldiers filled peoples hearts with dread, especially if you were ‘guilty’ ‘guilty’ of being a Jew.

Strolling beside Amsterdam's unique buildings, its meandering canals, watching the boats disappear under bridges, bursting with the brightly blooming flower baskets.

I pass other buildings; such as the one during the Holocaust in Amsterdam where Jewish identify papers were created by the former Van Gelder Firm.

Buildings like the Royal Palace, where during the Holocaust in Amsterdam brave, defiant people hid these ‘guilty people’. Others were hidden away inside the home of a former Tobacco Company building, and in the bank from where the country's gold was secreted to England. During the Holocaust in Amsterdam it was from here that two brave young bankers created and exchanged forged treasury bills to supply the Resistance movement
with more than 50 million gilders.

I pass the Statue of Rembrandt and imagine the menacing screaming wail of 101 sirens, which sounded from this square when danger threatened.

And then I stop outside a building built in 1892, Hollandsche Schouwburg, once a popular theater, now a monument commemorating the Holocaust in Amsterdam, remembering the 60,000 to 80,000 Jews who, from 1942, were kept here and then deported to concentration and extermination camps.

Directly opposite it is a former Protestant Teachers College, the Hervormde Kweekschool, established in 1907. In April 1943 it became the escape route for the Jewish children held across the street awaiting the journey to their death. The brave staff, led by the Kweekschool’s director Johan Van Hulst, from 1942, he illegally bought children into the Kweekschool for an afternoon nap, from 1943 he arranged for the escape of these children to escape through the Kweekschool during the Holocaust in Amsterdam.

They saved the lives of over 600 children.Today the Kweekschool houses The National Holocaust Memorial commemorating the memory of the thousands of children from Amsterdam who died under the Nazi terror of World War II. Staring at the artifacts, a little boy's pair of boots, a child’s clogs, the yellow fabric star which all Jews from the age of 6 were forced to wear and the photos of unspeakable fear and suffering, I was shamed and humbled.

What possesses human kind to treat others so, to have no regard for another’s life, to participate or stand by and watch; cruelty, brutality, humiliation, degradation and annihilation?

My grandparents fought to rid the world of such evil. Brave, courageous people who risked their all for what they thought was right and honorable. I often wonder, could I have been as brave had I been called upon to do the same? And although prejudice, intimidation and savage cruelty still exists, we must never forget what our grandparents fought for and why.

Inside the museum I was captivated by a story told in paintings of one such grandfather. A Jewish man I had never heard of but who now I will now never forget; next time ……

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