If, like me, you enjoy becoming immersed in classic period dramas such as 'The Crown', 'Downtown Abbey' or 'Poldark', which, biased as I am, the Brits excel in producing, have you ever wondered where they are filmed? It is rarely possible to use iconic locations, such as London's Westminster Abbey or Buckingham Palace, so not surprisingly, in the highly acclaimed epic about Queen Victoria, VICTORIA, the scenes which take place in Buckingham Palace were actually shot several hundred miles from London in Harewood House, West Yorkshire. Designed by architects John Carr and Robert Adam, Harewood House was built between 1759 and 1771 for wealthy plantation owner Edwin Lascelles, 1st Baron of Harewood and remains one of England's most stunning 18th century country homes.

The young Princess Victoria actually visited Harewood House, in 1935, with her mother, The Duchess of Kent, to enable her to become acquainted with her future subjects.

The house is also currently hosting an exhibition of the costumes created for the production. This dress, worn by Jenna Coleman, who so brilliantly plays Queen Victoria, was used in the title scene for each episode of the series.

The dresses below were worn by Anna Wilson-Jones, playing Lady Portman & Margaret Clunie portraying the Duchess of Sutherland. Ironically both women had connections to Harewood House. Lady Portman was the daughter of the 2nd Earl of Harewood and first met Princess Victoria when she visited Harewood House in 1935, she became a Lady in Waiting in 1937. The Duchess of Sutherland, daughter of the 6th Earl of Carlisle, was a sister-in-law to the 2nd Earl of Harewood' son, William Sebright Lascelles, she became Mistress of the Robes for Queen Victoria.

The bed in this lavish stateroom, reserved solely for visiting royalty and heads of state, is the most expensive piece of Chippendale furniture ever commissioned. It was only ever used twice, once by the Grand Duke Nicholas in 1816 and then by Princess Victoria in 1835. Henrietta ( 2nd Countess of Harewood) wrote to her sister describing the fitting of the green silk bed for Princess Victoria's visit:

"The company are to come at three and shown in the yellow and white rooms: Lord Harwood and I await them in the Salon and take the Duchess and Princess there, then comes the tug of war with so many ladies to be presented."

Later in the Victorian period the room was converted to the Countess' sitting room as it is perfectly positioned to be able to admire the Terrace.

This dress was worn by Victoria when she meets Albert for the first time in Buckingham Palace in the dining room, Episode 2: Ladies in Waiting.

The Gallery, where many of the costumes are on display, was built to hold grand banquets and balls and it was in here that Princess Victoria was entertained in 1835.

The Gallery was used in VICTORIA for the dining room scene set at Buckingham Palace. Harewood's state dining room table was repositioned here and ornately dressed as befitting a royal occasion!

This printed, silk and fine wool gauze dress was worn when Queen Victoria proposed to Albert in Episode 4: The Clockwork Prince.

The coronation robes, made of gold damask, were based on the original designs worn by Queen Victoria. Embroidered with gold thistles, roses and shamrocks representing the United Kingdom they were edged with heavy gold fringing.

The dining room at Harewood House was designed by Sir Charles Barry who built the Houses of Parliament. Barry raised the original ceiling to make it more spacious, created new service passages to the kitchens and added full length panels to better display the family portraits. The walnut dining table replaced the four original tables and could seat thirty two. Much of the original Chippendale furniture remains including the two urn topped pedestals and wine cooler.

The music room was used in VICTORIA when Victoria & Albert played Schubert together.

The Terrace was also built by Sir Charles Barry in the 1840's and is one of the most distinguished Victorian gardens designed in the classical Italianate style. The terrace and rear of the property features many times in VICTORIA  as the rear of Buckingham Palace.

The impact of death duties and rising labour costs after World War II saw the Terrace and gardens at Harewood House fall into decline. However it was restored in the 1990's once the Harewood House Trust had been created receiving financial assistance from English Heritage and the E.U.

In the UK, ITV is currently airing the second series of VICTORIA on Sundays at 9pm and it will be shown in USA on PBS early in 2018. Do visit Harewood House if you are in the north of England, the VICTORIA Exhibition is on until October 29th 2017 and for lovers of fashion should not be missed!

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Traveling through the back streets of Bradford on an early February evening, rain lashing at the windscreen, shop fronts full of Indian silks, groceries and numerous restaurants from the Indian continent flashing passed, my curiosity was once again aroused. What was the history behind this west Yorkshire city, once a wealthy center for the wool industry and now such a multicultural melting pot?

Sampling the local culinary delights, where I had never seen Naan bread served in such gigantic proportions I knew there was a story to be discovered.
Bradford began as a village by a ford. According to the Domesday book in 1086, 'Brad' meant 'broad'; by that time the 'broad ford' had grown to about 300 people, large for the time! It became a town when it was allowed to hold a weekly market an event which precipitated its rapid growth. By the Middle Ages it had a leather tanning and a wool industry and by 1461 was allowed to hold 2 fairs, typically towns were only allowed to hold one annually, this attracted commerce from all over Yorkshire.
Both industries continued to grow during the 16^th century and many original wooden properties were replaced with stone. Despite several attacks of the plague, the town prospered and by the late 17^th century it really expanded when woolen cloth production was abandoned for worsted cloth. It was transformed by the Industrial Revolution, which saw the textile industry boom. In 1774-1777 the Bradford Canal connected the town to the Leeds Liverpool Canal, a vital communications link and mills sprung up for cloth production.
Conditions in these ‘dark Satanic Mills’ were appalling. People, including small children, worked grueling, 12 hour days, in cramped, dark conditions and were frequently hit with a leather strap. By the late 19^th century conditions were improved and Bradford continued to grow. By 1851 its population had reached 103, 000 from 4,500 in 1780! This unfortunately led to poor housing construction and atrocious living conditions for the working classes. Despite various acts being passed to improve conditions, to introduce street lights and even a police force in 1848, if you were poor it remained an unsanitary place to live.
Improvements were gradually made, an infirmary was opened in 1843 and the first public park in 1870. The railway reached Bradford in 1846, in 1889 electricity was first generated in Bradford and the first electric trams ran on its streets in 1898. The first motor-buses ran here in 1897 and in 1910 the first cars were manufactured in Bradford by Benjamin and William Jowett, which stayed in production up until 1951. Despite the decline in the textile industry, in the late 1920’s, new industries came to Bradford such as printing and engineering.
In the 1950’s Bradford was dramatically changed by a large immigrant influx from the West Indies, India, Bangladesh and Pakistan, Bradford became a multicultural city. Also at this time, televisions and tractors were both made in Bradford and the town continued to prosper. However the boom times ended with the recessions of the 1970‘s and 1980’s, mass unemployment occurred and Bradford's fortunes went into sad decline. Today Bradford remains a melting pot of cultures and interests, a city  with a wealth of  history to discover. It has become the first UNESCO City of Film with attractions such as the National Media Museum, Bradford City Park, the Alhambra theatre and Cartwright Hall.
And as for the delicious Naan breads in Bradford, yes they really are that big!!

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Where exactly do fish and chips originate from? How has this 'marriage made in heaven' become one of the most well known food pairings in the world and synonymous with Britain!! It seems that the exact origins fish 'n' chips are unknown, moreover they are not as British as one might think!
Chips, or rather pommes frites, were a 17^th century French and Belgian invention. They appear to have arrived in Britain in the mid 18^th century. The Belgians were possibly the first to conceive the idea of serving them together when they cut fish shapes from potatoes and served these with frites when rivers froze and it was impossible to obtain fish!  At a similar time fried fish was introduced to Britain by Jewish refugees from Portugal and Spain, street sellers sold it from large trays hung round their necks.

Fish and chips are first mentioned together in Shilling Cookery, an 1854 recipe book when fish ware houses sold fried fish and bread as recorded in Dickens’ Oliver Twist.
Who came up with the idea of serving this mouthwatering two-some together is greatly debated. Some attribute it to a northerner, John Lees, selling fish and chips from a wooden hut at Mossley Market in Lancashire. Others to a Jewish immigrant who opened the first fish and chip shop within the sound of Bow Bells in East London in 1860.
Whatever you believe, fish and chip shops sprung up all over Victorian Britain, often wrapped in old newspaper to keep the price down until this was banned in the 1980’s! For generations this classic double act has been enjoyed by millions; flaky white fish served in crispy, golden batter with steaming hot chips, irresistible! Sat on a sea wall on a summer holiday, or buying them as a late night treat or in lieu of having to slave over a hot stove, more often than not munching on them from a paper wrapping, with salt and malt vinegar, licking your greasy fingers! Winston Churchill called them ‘good companions', John Lennon covered his in ketchup and Michael Jackson liked them with mushy peas
And finally are they healthy? Compared to other take away foods they have 9.42gm of fat per 100gm compared to Pizza-11gm, Big Mac Meal-12.1gm, Whopper Meal-14.5gm, Chicken Korma-15.5gm! Fish ‘n’ chips have 595 calories in the average portion an average Pizza has 871, a Big Mac Meal-888, Whopper Meal 892, Chicken Korma-910! Guess what we are having for supper!!!?

Yorkshire puddings

In my wanderings around England this month, especially having spent a week in Yorkshire, yorkshire puddings also became a culinary topic for discussion, served in various tempting ways on many of the local pub menus. My American friends normally refer to them as 'popovers' and sometimes they are served instead of bread in restaurants. To me that has always seemed odd, surely yorkshire puddings should be partnered with a roast beef Sunday lunch, dripping with gravy, nestled up to the veggies?!!! Well I started to wonder. Who first made these crisp, doughy delights and how did they first serve it? Is yorkshire pudding actually even from Yorkshire?

The first recipe for a yorkshire pudding appeared in 1727, in an English cookery book, 'The Whole Duty of a Woman', where it was called a Dripping Pudding, the dripping coming from the spit-roast meat. Following the publication of ‘The Art of Cooking Made Plain & Easy’ by Hannah Glasse in 1747, yorkshire pudding became a British national favourite and it does indeed seem to hail from Yorkshire.

Mrs Beeton, England’s most famous 19^th century food writer, also had her own yorkshire pudding recipe, although she failed to stress the critical importance of an extremely hot oven and her suggestion of cooking the puddings in advance was a severe error. Her mistakes were blamed by local Yorkshire people on her southern origins! Today we would rely on one of England's many cooking experts such as the most beloved Delia Smith!

Delia Smith's Yorkshire Pudding recipe

• 75 gm/3oz plain/all purpose  flour
• 1 large egg
• 75 ml /3 floz milk
• 55 ml water

Method
To make the batter, sift the flour into a bowl (with a cloth under it to keep it steady), holding the sieve quite high to give the flour a good airing, add some seasoning then make a well in the centre.  
Break the egg into it and beat with an electric hand whisk (you can also use a balloon whisk), gradually incorporating the flour, and then gradually add and beat in the milk and water. 
When its all in, slide a rubber spatula all around the sides and base of the bowl to get any escaped bits of flour. Then give it one more whisk. 
There is no need to leave the batter to stand, so make it whenever it’s convenient. 
If you are cooking your Yorkshire to accompany a roast, about 15 minutes before the joint is due to come out of the oven, increase the heat to 220°C, gas mark 7 add the dripping (or oil) to the pan and place it in the oven to heat, for 10 minutes.While your meat is resting, or when you are ready to cook the Yorkshire, place the pan or tin over direct heat, turned to high, while you pour the batter into the sizzling hot fat. 
Immediately return the tin to the highest shelf in the oven (or, if you have roast potatoes on that one, the second highest). 
The pudding will take 25-30 minutes to rise and become crisp and golden. 
Serve as soon as possible: if it has to wait around too long it loses its crunchiness but if it does pop it under a hot grill or back in the oven to crisp up.
In 2014, the yorkshire pudding remains a staple in many roast dinners, although by the end of the 20^th Century making it ‘from scratch’ was rivaled by the first commercially produced alternatives, with Yorkshire based Aunt Bessie’s brand.
In 2007, York MP Anne McIntosh, tried to get yorkshire puddings the same protected status as French champagne! "The people of Yorkshire are rightly and fiercely proud of the Yorkshire pudding," she said "it is something which has been cherished and perfected for centuries in Yorkshire."
In the same year, the Royal Society of Chemistry declared that to be called a 'yorkshire pudding’ it had to reach a designated height of 4 inches’ Another scientist said that hailing from Yorkshire is the secret key to making the perfect pudding! Whatever your thoughts, the yorkshire pudding still normally makes its appearance at Sunday roast lunches especially when beef is served. My mother and her mother before her, always made them as individual puffs, delicious!

Yorkshire pudding is also the major player in toad in the hole, another British tradition, sausages nestled in yorkshire pudding!

In Yorkshire it is often eaten, as it was done traditionally in Britain, as a separate course prior to the main meat course, when it was used to fill people up! Obviously those Americans got it right serving it separately, perhaps as it was originally intended!!!!

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York Minster cathedral church is one of Europe’s finest medieval buildings and the oldest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe. Beneath it lie the Roman ruins of the Basilica, the ceremonial centre of the Roman fortress in York. The ‘minster’ (a title given to Anglo Saxon churches, known as missionary churches) is the seat of the Archbishop of York, the 2^nd highest office in the Church of England.

The first church on this site was built in 627, a hurriedly put together wooden structure. The first stone building was completed in 637 and dedicated to St Peter, which the minster is also known as. The attached school and library were established, by the 8th century they were some of the most substantial in Northern Europe. The church was ransacked by the Norman Conquest in 1069 and replaced by a Norman Cathedral. The present Gothic style church took over 250 years to build, 1220-1427, built of local magnesian limestone from nearby Tadcaster and build to rival Canterbury. Work continued until 1472, when it was declared complete and finally consecrated.

During the English reformation there was much looting and destruction, which continued until the English Civil War, 1644. Although it suffered relatively little damage after then, its marble floor was re-laid in 1730-1736 and it went through various periods of decline and preservation throughout the following centuries.

Inside the Minster

More recently, in 2007, extensive renovations took place, especially on the Great East Window, which is the largest piece of medieval stained glass in the world. York has a long tradition of creating beautiful stained glass, the glass mostly came from Germany and on arrival in York it was carefully painted, fired and glazed together with strips of led.

The cathedral is currently undergoing a massive conservation project, due to be completed in 2015–16, skilled craftsmen and stonemasons working to maintain this magnificent structure.

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As you enter the city of York you cannot help but be impressed by the magnificent stone wall which still envelopes the main center. If these strong fortifications could talk, what a tale they would tell, the many key historical events they have witnessed, standing strong and determined like silent guards as the centuries have enfolded before them. The history of the 2 mile long, York walls, stretches back 2000 years and remain England’s most complete example of a city’s medieval walls.

Beneath the city's walls lie the remains of the Roman fortress. The Roman’s occupied York from 71AD and it was they who constructed the first wall. The Roman structure survived until 866AD when it was destroyed and buried with the Viking take over of the city. In the 13^th and 14^th centuries the walls were rebuilt again, these are the walls that are here today.
The medieval wall contained 4 main gates or ‘bars’, Bootham Bar, Monk Bar, Walmgate Bar and Micklegate Bar which encompassed the entire medieval city and castle. By the late 18^th century the walls had fallen into decay. Plans were made for their demolition, as had been had been done in many other cities, including London. Fierce local opposition prevented this, even though parts of the walls were badly damaged.

Bootham Bar

Bootham Bar, on the site of one of the four Roman entrances to the city, was built in the 11^th century. In 1501, a door knocker was installed, any visiting Scotts were required to knock to seek the Lord Mayor’s permission to enter the city. Bootham Bar, like Micklegate Bar was sometimes used to display the heads of traitors and was badly damaged in 1644.

 Micklegate Bar

Micklegate Bar’s lowest section was built in the 12^th century and it was inhabited until 1157. The remaining structure was built in the 15^th century. It was the most important gateway and main city entrance for anyone arriving from the South. At least 6 reigning monarchs have entered the city through this gate, always stopping first to observe the tradition of asking the Lord Mayor's permission to enter.

 Monk Bar

Monk Bar is the largest and most ornate gateway, dating from the 14^th century. It was built as a self contained fortress, each floor being capable of being defended. On the front is an arch supporting a gallery with ‘murder holes’ through which missiles and boiling water could be rained down upon attackers. It has York’s only working portcullis in use until 1970!

Walmgate Bar

Walmgate Bar is the most complete of the gateways into the city. It is the only one to still have its barbican, portcullis and inner doors. It's oldest part is the 12th century stone archway, the front walled barbican is 14th century, the wooden gates from the 15th century and the timber frame interior from the 16th century. Today it is still possible to walk the ramparts of the York city walls, entering at street level through the chapel like doors.

Climbing up the steep narrow steps at Monk Bar.

Once you are on the ramparts you navigate a narrow pathway which offers splendid views of the city.

View of the minster from the walls

The city from the walls

The York City walls are one of its most distinguishable features. Although many cities can claim to have had similar structures, the vast majority were destroyed in the 1800's when it was considered that they were too costly to maintain. Fortunately the citizens of York had more foresight, campaigning heavily to keep their Medieval walls. Today the walls are a Scheduled Ancient Monument and a Grade 1 listed building. They are well maintained and conserved for the millions of visitors who visit York each year to walk its ramparts and admire this beautiful city.

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Wandering around the stunning, ancient city of York, a long time favourite destination of mine, I felt compelled to discover a little of the story behind its rich history. In my next few posts I want to share what I have learned about this cobbled stoned jewel, one of England's most beloved and treasured cities.

Roman York

York was initially controlled by a group of tribes known as the Brigantes. The Romans invaded Britain in 43AD and in 71AD their 9th legion north captured an area by the Foss and Ouse rivers, establishing a fort, around which grew up a town which called Eboracum or "place of the yew trees."  Under Roman rule, York became the most important city in Britannia. In 306, Constantine the Great, the founder of Constantinople, was crowned Emperor on the site of the existing York Minster.

This 31ft high column was discovered during church restoration work and re-erected near the south entrance to the minster. 

Saxon and Viking York

The Romans left Eboracum some time around 410 AD,  leaving behind perhaps its greatest legacy, the York city walls, the subject of my next post. Like most of Roman Britain, York came under the control of the Anglo Saxons and a period of decay and decline followed.
Although legend says that King Arthur captured York, apart from changing its name to Eoferwic and building a wooden church on the site of the present minster, little was changed until the Vikings invaded in 866AD. They changed the city's s name to "Jorvik" and when they fled almost 100 years later they left behind a legacy of names, suffixes still in existence today; names such as Micklegate are based on the Viking 'gata', meaning street.

Norman York

York then suffered constant conflict from mostly Norwegian invaders, until William the Conqueror marched on the city in 1068 wanting this prosperous city to be part of his newly acquired kingdom. He strengthened its defenses and city walls, building 2 castles designed to control access to the city by the river. York became a thriving city and immense rebuilding occurred.

The Shambles

A Norman street, originally occupied by the butchers of York, it took its name from the word 'shamel ', the Norman word for the benches upon which meat was displayed, it was rebuilt in the 1400's.

Under the Normans, the Viking stone church, built on the site of the wooden Saxon church, was destroyed and a Norman church constructed. This was replaced in 1220 by the present day, breathtaking, Gothic style minster which took 250 year to complete. The city walls that still exist today also date from this time.

During this period there was also significant change with regards to how York was governed. Up until the 13^th century York, like most cities, was controlled by a Sheriff, who had no accountability to its citizens. As the city grew richer, the business citizens, resenting the Sheriff’s authority fiercely sought change. Finally in 1212, King John granted York its own charter allowing the town’s citizens to become self-governing, which it continued to be until 1974!

York during the Tudors

The next major milestone for York followed after Henry VII’s victory at the Battle of Bosworth, on August 22^nd 1485 which united the feuding red rose of Lancashire and white rose of York. The townspeople were anxious that the new King would look as favourably upon York as had his predecessor Richard III. Despite various rebel uprisings peace was maintained but during his son’s reign, Henry VIII, York fared disastrously.

St Williams College

A uniquely surviving non monastic religious, medieval  building, a priests home founded in 1426. Sold during the Reformation to become a printing press for King Charles 1 during the Civil War.

When Henry VIII, separated from Rome claiming much of the church’s property, York, lost more than many other cities. Numerous religious buildings suddenly had no purpose and many fell into sad decline. Church run schools and hospitals closed,  people lost their livelihood, there were fewer places for the poor to seek refuge, for the sick to be cared for and for education to thrive. Properties owned by the monasteries were sold with the exception of the Abbey grounds. This was a walled area retained and used by the crown until the 19^th century. In 1522  it became the home of the King’s Council of the North. It was responsible for bringing criminals to justice, hearing cases about civil offenses and the enforcement of religious practice, it remained powerful until the end of the 16^th century.

The Barley Hall

A former Priory, hidden until restoration work discovered it in the 1980's!

Inside the Barley Hall

The property where Guy Fawkes was born

Guy Fawkes famously tried to blow up the Houses of Parliament in 1605  wishing to restore the Catholic Church to Protestant England, following the reign of Elizabeth 1.

York up to today

York continued to grow and proser during the next century. By the late 17th century running water ran to people's homes (for those who could afford it) through a system of wooden pipes but the Industrial revolution had less effect on York than elsewhere and it remained a market town. Financial concerns prospered with banks and insurance businesses growing up but it was the steam-powered railway that renewed York in 1839. In 1830 George Stephenson had built the world’s first inter-city line, in 1840 he built the line from Newcastle to London and it ran through York. By 1850 13 trains a day ran between York and London and in 1877 York build the largest station in England. The railway permitted people and goods to be transported faster than ever before opening up new markets. Tourism boomed, people arrived from all over to explore the city, to attend York’s theatre and visit it museums. York became a center for music, art and a destination for writers like Thackeray and Dickens.
Communications were revolutionized, by the mid 1860’s York had 2 postal services a day. The railways also bought heavy industry to the city, repairs and manufacture of engines, carriages and goods wagons became as important to the city as the railways themselves, some surviving right through until 1996.
At the same time, York became the center for mass-produced cocoa and confectionary, led by Joseph Terry, Joseph Rowntree and Mary Craven. Raw ingredients, cocoa, fruit and sugar were transported into York by rail. They were manufactured and sold throughout the country and  become a key source of local employment.
The Victorian age saw an increase in education, often sponsored by York’s many religious groups. Many new schools and colleges were opened and York soon had the finest system in the country as well as  many good infirmaries.

Former York Hospital

One of York's many hospitals near the minster, now office buildings.

Despite these great advancements, behind the historical streets of York there was acute poverty. In 1899, Joseph Rowntree's son, Benjamin Seebohm Rowntree undertook an extensive report on the conditions of the poor and their cramped, cold and filthy living conditions. His report was published in 1901 and greatly influenced the reforming politics of the pre-war Liberal Party. Having visited over 11,500 families he succeeded in linking slum housing to ill health and poverty and so began the slow route to better living conditions. This was greatly helped in 1948 by the birth of the National Health Service resulting in a much lower infant mortality and ridding the city of tuberculosis and scarlet fever.

More historical gems of York:

Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate

The shortest street in York, build in 1505 and called 'Whitnourwhatnourgate, meaning 'what a street'!

The Golden Fleece

One of the oldest and reputedly most haunted inns in York!

Today what distinguishes York is its rich, culture and historical heritage. Its past remains its greatest asset and it is visited by and admired by millions every year.

Streets in York today

A York Tailors today

The Star Inn, York

Recently converted buildings, now a delicious restaurant, the Star Inn!

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The Malton Agricultural Market is a long established tradition, dating back to around the 1830's. Each week livestock is auctioned here, cattle on Tuesdays, sheep on Thursdays. The sheep are neatly and efficiently ordered into their pens, a little startled but mostly oblivious of exactly what is occurring, probably just as well!! Yorkshire Farmers gather to select or sell their livestock. The swift 'mutterings 'of the experienced auctioneer oversees the smooth running of the proceedings, almost incomprehensible to someone like myself with no understanding of the process, against the gentle sounds and shuffles of the animals.

Just along from the market is 'The Shambles' in Malton. Old, quaint and full of curiosities, both in terms of people and what they have to sell! Characters that have worked there for years, recognizing their regular customers with a brief nod and smile. If you have the time to rummage, there are doubtless many hidden treasures to be discovered.

The nearby butcher provided quite an outstanding display of locally caught rabbits and game.

I confess to really enjoying roast pheasant and have childhood memories of watching my grandparents plucking these wild birds at Christmas. However it is not something I could do, I guess I'm feeble and would rather not be involved at the front end of this type of food preparation!

From Mother Nature's more cheerful side, this cosy basket of week old puppies stole our hearts as we browsed round the neighbouring 'Fireplace and Hearth' shop. Puppies too young to even have opened their eyes, snuggled up to their mother, next to the warmth of the store's crackling log burning stove.

The morning seemed to be full of unexpected animal related events as we watched this funeral procession clip clop its way through the streets. Straight out of a scene from Dickens, slightly embarrassed and feeling somewhat disrespectful to be photographing an event of great sorrow, I couldn't help myself looking on in amazement. I had no idea that horses still led the somber funeral march......

The heartbroken little group ended up in the market square by Malton's Church.

A little later we warmed our spirits, sampling the delights of one of the local coffee shop/Delis and headed for the town of Pickering, just 8 miles away.

The high street was sadly veiled in a grey curtain of rain but it did little to dampen our enthusiasm for exploring each tiny corner of the enticing antique shops!

Later, we  had to laugh at this cafe, we wondered who 'Mr Wilf' might be and whether he owned the matching purple cars parked outside. It just goes to prove, there is always something quirky to catch your eye, wherever you maybe!

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As I braved the brisk temperatures on a blustery morning stride around the small North Yorkshire market town of Malton, there seemed so much to catch my attention. I pondered whether I was noticing things which maybe I wouldn't have done had I not lived outside of England for so long or whether I was just seeing a slightly different England from the one I had grown up in in the south. Why we observe what we do is probably due to a myriad of factors. I am always keen to learn about any place I visit, how local people live and interact and what it is that stands out to define an area.

My overriding observation was how friendly everyone was, greeting each other with a warm nod or smile and a broadly accented greeting such as "you alright then my darling?" It also struck me as a place of contrasts, more so than elsewhere. High class delicatessens, florists and chic little gift shops full of nothing other than 'nice to haves' to tempt your money to fly from your wallet, were happily situated in amongst much older, somewhat shabbier establishments and small, sterile chain stores.
In the few designer coffee shops, well groomed, expensive looking, 'ladies that lunch' chatted over their carefully arranged salads, surrounded by smart purchases from some of those scrumptious local delis, all bursting with attractively presented, artisan products and homemade baked goods.

Parked nearby were a few smart, predominately German cars, where such ladies hastened back to, clutching bundles of freshly picked daffodils nestling in a scroll of designer paper secured with raffia, doubtless heading home on a Friday afternoon to prepare supper for friends.

The charming, immaculately kept Yorkshire stone homes I had walked by on my way into Malton, just like their owners, came from a different world to the terraced properties by the main road leading out of town.

Tired, concerned faces bore the evidence of lives lived far less indulgently, yet like many places, the town hummed along contentedly with a varied mixture of people. At midday, some were scuttling out of the local fish and chip shop with their lunches, others hurrying along, with shopping, their dogs or small children in tow.

The sign advertising coal for sale seemed to jump out at me, partly because you never see coal for sale in California, where in some areas even the burning of wood is forbidden. It bought back memories of shoveling coal from an outside scuttle and struggling back inside with it full, the jet black jewels glistening by the fireside.

Passing by the River Derwent, the river banks were swollen after months of relentless rain.

Completing my loop of the town, I stopped by what was originally the local farm supply shop, Ralph Yates and Son, which, for well over one hundred and fifty years had been a mainstay of the town. Next, the local cinema, a stark contract from the shiny, multi complexes I usually frequent but where I was told you could watch a movie and be served a glass of wine, sitting at a bistro style table on a velvet seat! This small, possibly quite old fashioned cinema beguiling all with its charming ambience of a bygone, less hurried era.

I climbed the alley way to the cinema entrance, a small, unimposing doorway almost like someone's private home, yet where from within, just like at its' flashier cousins, incredibly, the latest movies could still be viewed.

I went by the early 19th century building I had seen last Christmas, where Charles Dickens had stayed and been inspired to write his much beloved 'Christmas Carol', using this property as the imaginary offices for Ebenezer Scrooge.

The rain started to tumble in blinding torrents which abruptly terminated my meanderings and contemplations. Turning for home I began to ponder a life lived here, and it felt rather comforting!

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Sparkling Christmas trees, a stunningly decorated table, ribbons, candles, precious linen and china. A home garlanded with holly, ivy and winter greenery and a warm, loving welcome. A magical Christmas about to begin in Malton, North Yorkshire, England, recently made famous as the local town in the epic British drama, Downtown Abbey.

A few miles down the road Castle Howard, the home for over 300 years of the Howard family, a branch of the same Howards to which Catherine Howard belonged, Henry VIII's, young and doomed 5th wife.
Like Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, it was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh. Castle Howard was built between 1699 and 1712 for the 3rd Earl of Carlisle, its extensive grounds covering over 13,000 acres.
Entry to Castle Howard The Courtyard at Castle Howard.
A scrumptious farm shop ready to tempt with an abundance of hand-made delicious goodies, to make Christmas this year just that bit more indulgent and special. Wishing you all a very Happy Christmas, peace and goodwill to everyone!

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Strolling around York, one of England’s finest cities, steeped in a rich history, 2 days before Christmas, one is transported back into the past. Originally founded by pre-Roman Britons, York owes its legacy to the Romans who named it "Eboracum" and made it their British capital until 410 AD. It is still possible to walk their city walls today.

When the Danish Vikings, invaded York around the mid 9th century AD, they changed the city’s name to “Jorvik”, from which the present day name of 'York' is derived. Two hundred years later, after the Norman invasion, William the Conquerer made medieval York his northern base. York became a flourishing port, and an important economic and manufacturing center, wool was woven in York and a thriving leather industry developed. There were also many other craftsmen; butchers, bakers, blacksmiths, coopers, goldsmiths, barber-surgeons, By the 13th century York had 2 annual fairs with people attending from all over Yorkshire.

One of York's most beloved and admired famous streets, The Shambles, with its splendid overhanging timber-framed buildings also dates back as far as the fourteenth century.
The Shambles, York, 2 days before Christmas
In the late Middle Ages several great buildings were built, including The Guildhall, 1453 and York Minster, 1220 -1472 the Archbishop of York becoming only second to the Archbishop of Canterbury in terms of religious influence.
The Guild Hall, York
At the end of this period, during the War of the Roses, York was a center of power for the Lancastrian cause and although united under the Tudor Rose, York suffered under Henry VIII’s reformation when a great deal of the city was destroyed. Ironically York was the birth place and home of Guy Fawkes, who in 1604, tried to undo the religious changes bought about in Tudor England in his failed attempt to blow up the Houses of Parliament in London, an event remembered each year ever since on November 5^th with fireworks and parties all over Britain – Guy Fawkes or Bonfire night.
During the Georgian Period York again began to prosper. The Assembly Rooms, near York Minster were built and York’s first Newspaper, The York Mercury was established. At this time, Dick Turpin, Britain’s most notorious highwayman was imprisoned in the city. During the Victorian Age, York became a main railway hub for the North making it more of an important industrial city.


York today remains a vibrant and beautiful city. Much of its medieval heritage has been preserved buildings and cobbled streets admired by visitors from all over the globe. Dominating the skyline on every corner is the magnificent York Minister a fine tribute to Gothic architecture and a stunning cathedral building. 
Inside its soaring stone arches we were able to attend a beautiful Christmas 9 Lessons and Carol Service. The sweet voices of an English cathedral choir filling the cloisters and our hearts with the true spirit of Christmas, peace and love.

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