London – Shutters & Sunflowers https://shuttersandsunflowers.com Travel tips from an English girl in California, in love with Provence. Mon, 17 Apr 2023 04:02:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.8 124587098 Speaking at The Pilsudski Institute about the Poles who cracked Enigma https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/speaking-at-the-pilsudski-institute-about-the-poles-who-cracked-enigma/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/speaking-at-the-pilsudski-institute-about-the-poles-who-cracked-enigma/#comments Fri, 03 May 2019 06:37:43 +0000 https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/?p=9969 I'm delighted to have been invited to speak at the Pilsudski Institute, London on May 14th 2019 about my novel  THE SUNFLOWER FIELD Interwoven with a modern day, fictitious wartime mystery, THE SUNFLOWER FIELD  tells the true story of three Polish mathematicians who ...

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I'm delighted to have been invited to speak at the Pilsudski Institute, London on May 14th 2019 about my novel  THE SUNFLOWER FIELD

Interwoven with a modern day, fictitious wartime mystery, THE SUNFLOWER FIELD  tells the true story of three Polish mathematicians who in 1932 first cracked the ENIGMA code. Considered completely unbreakable, the ENIGMA code was used by the Nazi's to encrypt their messages before transmission. Sharing this intelligence with the Allies on the eve of World War II, it was one of the most significant contributions to the Allied victory and the foundation for subsequent wartime code-breaking efforts.

Barely acknowledged and forgotten within the folds of history it's a story that's hardly been told, until now.

'The Sunflower Field' novel by Caroline Lonsgtaffe

 

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Chelsea, London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/chelsea-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/chelsea-london/#comments Sun, 08 Oct 2017 06:45:01 +0000 http://shuttersandsunflowers.com/?p=8163 Chelsea, London, SW1, one of the most exclusive and of course expensive addresses in London, if not Britain. Close to the River Thames, Chelsea boasts streets of grand mansions and delightful mews properties and some of the capital's most high ...

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Chelsea Properties, Chelsea, London, England

Chelsea, London, SW1, one of the most exclusive and of course expensive addresses in London, if not Britain. Close to the River Thames, Chelsea boasts streets of grand mansions and delightful mews properties and some of the capital's most high end luxury shops, with world class museums, theatres and parks all nearby. Chelsea is home to amongst other things, The Chelsea Barracks, The Chelsea Flower Show, The Royal Hopsital and The Chelsea Foot Ball Club based at Stamford Bridge in neighbouring Fulham.

As a Brit living in California I was interested to learn that Chelsea is home to one of the largest communities of Americans living outside the United States,not a bad place to be an expat in!

Properties on Lower Sloane Street, Chelsea, London, England

Just off of Chelsea's Sloane Square is The Sloane Club where I was fortunate enough to stay and be suitably pampered and indulged all thanks to the generosity of a dear friend, lucky me!

Entrance to the Sloane Club, Chelsea, London, UK

Strolling Chelsea's streets it was impossible to not be impressed by the varied and beautiful architecture. From the red brick of Lower Sloane Street to these, quite different in style

Properties in Chelsea, London, England

and these, where one almost expected to meet an Elizabeth or Jane Bennet!

The Properties of Chelsea, London, England

Royal Hospital Chelsea ~ home to Chelsea Pensioners

The Royal Hospital Chelsea is the home of the iconic Chelsea Pensioners, retired soldiers of the British Army. The hospital was founded in 1681 by King Charles II to provide care for old and injured soldiers. Charles II commissioned Sir Christopher Wren for its design and construction and a site next to the River Thames was chosen in the countryside of Chelsea. Work was completed in 1692 and the first Chelsea Pensioners were admitted in February 1692. By the end of March 476 men were in residence and the home was full.

Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, home to Chelsea Pensioners

A Grade I and II listed site, it remains today as a beautiful architectural legacy left to the nation by Charles II and Christopher Wren, offering care and comradeship for any former soldier of the British Army over the age of 65, who is alone.

Today the Royal Hospital Chelsea is home to over 300 army veterans who have served in World War II, Cyprus, Korea, the Falkland Islands and Northern Ireland.

Bram Stoker's Home

Who would have known that the creator of this dark character of fiction, Count Dracula, once resided in Chelsea? Abraham, 'Bram' Stoker (8 November 1847 – 20 April 1912), an Irish novelist, wrote his Gothic novel Dracula in 1897 from 18 St Leonard's Terrace, his home in Chelsea, SW3. St Leonard's Terrace was also once the home of Sir Laurence Olivier and is listed as one of 200 most expensive addresses in Britain.

Bram Stoker's Home, Chelsea, London, England

Shopping in Chelsea

The Kings Road is Chelsea's most famous shopping streets. On a Saturday a lively market was in full force, an upscale market of course but then we were in Chelsea......

Chelsea Market on Kings Road, England

These converted mews properties were close by

Shops in Chelsea, London, England

and this is where we had dinner. It felt just like being in Europe. Should that be a surprise, for despite the nightmare of Brexit, England is still in Europe, I think!

Chelsea Restaurant, Kings Road, London, England

Thank you again to my friend for such a special treat.

Check out more places to visit in fabulous London here. Still my favourite city in the world but then I am perhaps a tad biased!

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London's Maltby Street Market, a foodie's heaven https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/londons-maltby-street-market-a-foodies-heaven/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/londons-maltby-street-market-a-foodies-heaven/#respond Sun, 02 Oct 2016 09:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/londons-maltby-street-market If you like fresh, delicious, home cooked food and you are in London on a Saturday or Sunday, don't miss the Maltby Street Market. About a 10 minute walk from Tower Bridge, along the Ropewalk, next to Lassco, (fabulous architectural salvage ...

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The Maltby Street Market, Bermondsey, London, England

If you like fresh, delicious, home cooked food and you are in London on a Saturday or Sunday, don't miss the Maltby Street Market.

About a 10 minute walk from Tower Bridge, along the Ropewalk, next to Lassco, (fabulous architectural salvage and antiques) you'll find the Maltby Street  Market, it's a foodie's heaven!

You can stand on the street and indulge, take a table within the old Victorian railway arches and soak up the cool, atmospheric, rustic vibe or take it home to spoil your friends! Make your at the selection from around the globe, gourmet sandwiches, exotic scotch eggs, local micro-brewed beer or the best Indian food you'll ever eat; your taste buds will be thrilled by the total scrumptiousness!

One of the dining spots within the Railway arches at the market
Restaurant under the railway arches at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Artisan Breads
Artsian breads at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Scotch Eggs like you have never experienced before.
Scotch eggs at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Mouth watering, vegetarian Indian food,
Indian food at Maltby Street Market, London, England
it really was a good as it looks!
Indian vegetarian food at Maltby Street Market, London, England;Tower Bridge;London Bridge Underground Station;Bermondsey Underground Station;Artisan food
A selection from the local microbreweries at the Maltby Street  Market.
London micro brews at Maltby Street Market, London, England
And so very much more to tempt you. Check it out for yourself and let me know what your favourites are.

The Maltby Street Market: every Saturday 9am - 4pm Sunday 11am- 4pm

Closest Tube for the Maltby Street  Market : London Bridge or Bermondsey

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London; perspectives of this magnificent capital city https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-perspectives-of-this-magnificent-capital-city/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-perspectives-of-this-magnificent-capital-city/#respond Sat, 01 Oct 2016 21:12:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/london-perspectives-of-this-magnificent-capital-city London is brimming with stunning, iconic landmarks, immediately recognisable around the world; Buckingham Palace, The Tower of London, Tower Bridge, The London Eye, St Paul's Cathedral, The Shard, Harrods..... it is an endless list of history, tradition and wonder. I maybe biased but every visit ...

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Tower Bridge, London, England

London is brimming with stunning, iconic landmarks, immediately recognisable around the world; Buckingham Palace, The Tower of London, Tower Bridge, The London Eye, St Paul's Cathedral, The Shard, Harrods..... it is an endless list of history, tradition and wonder. I maybe biased but every visit to London is a thrill, full of new insights and discoveries.

Buckingham Palace

In the garden, from the other side of that famous balcony. You can tour this incredible royal palace, the busiest working palace in the world, annually from July to October, visit their site here
Buckingham Palace, London, England, from the garden

Tower Bridge, London from the River ThamesTower Bridge

From underneath on the Thames; grab a boat tour along the River Thames from Westminster Bridge. For the next 3 months you won't be able to drive across it, this Victorian masterpiece will be closed for renovations.

Harrods Christmas shop, London, EnglandHarrods

A Harrods' distinctive green delivery van packed with teddies ready for Christmas!

St Paul's Cathedral

Sir Christopher Wren's masterpiece from under the Millennium Pedestrian Bridge. Visit the cathedral on the
350th anniversary of the fire of London.

And did you know that:

 Big Ben & The Houses of Parliament from Waterloo Bridge, LondonThe Houses of Parliament at Westminster

Parliament is looking for somewhere else to reside, as their 'home' is about to be closed for a major refurbishment?

The Cutty SarkThe Cutty Sark, Greenwich, London, England

At Greenwich, (home to the world's time; Greenwich Mean Time) is one of the last tea clippers built is
1869. It was nearly lost in a tragic fire in 2007 but mercifully saved and beautifully restored.
Now floating on an incredible sea of glass and open for viewing.


The Tower of London

 

Truly one of London's most enduring monuments; it was established by William the Conqueror in 1066 and those that were almost certainly about to loose their head would enter the tower from the River Thames through Traitors' Gate (You can buy your tickets online here)

The Tower of London, England

The London Eye, London, England

London Eye

Have you seen the magnificent views from the largest ferris wheel in the world, remarkably already in its 18th year?

London Skyline

London continues to have a dramatic and rapidly changing skyline; 'The Gherkin' (30 St Mary Axe) now joined by 'The Cheese Grater', (the Leadenhall Building) and 'The Walkie Talkie' (20 Fenchurch St)? Click the links here for information about how to enjoy London's spectacular views from any of these modern icons!


The Shard

And dominating the sky across the Thames, is the Shard, a towering shaft of glass piercing the clouds above this historic city,

The Shard by Southwark Cathedral, LondonSouthwark Cathedral

A glimpse of the Shard seen here by Southwark  Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in London, (over 1000 years old), steeped in the history of the East End. Here, Shakespeare once lived and at his monument in the cathedral he can still be found, perhaps pondering his next masterpiece!

Ted's Veg' at Borough Market, LondonBorough Market

Close by is Borough Market where market stores have been since 1014, today an artisanal foodies' heaven! Of course I could go on and on, there is simply so much to learn and thrill.

 

 
And talking of markets...... come back next time and I'll tell you about our latest market discovery; if you enjoy Borough Market you will love this one!!

 

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My capital city; London, England https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/my-capital-city-london-england/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/my-capital-city-london-england/#respond Wed, 23 Sep 2015 07:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/my-capital-city-London-england When I was a little girl and first travelled to London I remember feeling so excited to visit our country's capital city, London, the name I had seen so many times on road signs! It was a big family outing, ...

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The Tower of London, England

When I was a little girl and first travelled to London I remember feeling so excited to visit our country's capital city, London, the name I had seen so many times on road signs! It was a big family outing, we got dressed up and went out to lunch AND dinner. Our parents, full of enthusiasm eagerly toured us round, it all seemed so wondrous and unending; from Harrods, to Hyde Park Corner and Marble Arch, round back to Buckingham Palace, up the Mall to Trafalgar Square then down Whitehall passing Downing Street where that important person, the Prime Minister lived, on to Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, the list was endless; the museums, St Paul's Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, The Tower of London, so many famous buildings and sights which I'd only seen in photographs or on the television. Red London buses, black London taxis, incredible museums, outstanding theatre and shops bigger and grander than I'd ever seen, bridge after bridge over the River Thames which seemed unrecognisable as the same river I was used to feeding the swans by in our home town! I remember feeling very tiny but I also remember thinking it was all so fabulous! So many years have now slipped by, so many beautiful cities now visited all across the globe but my capital city, London, still holds the most special place in my heart and I still think that it's pretty fabulous!

Trafalgar Square

Admiralty Arch leading down to that famous royal palace
Trafalgar Square, London

Buckingham Palace

We had tea at the palace, sadly the Queen was too busy to join us! The tour of Buckingham Palace, the busiest royal palace in the world, was absolutely incredible (sorry no photography allowed inside!) It's a palace befitting our wonderful Queen Elizabeth II, who on September 9th 2015 became the longest reigning British monarch ever; serving her people with unwavering dedication and a tireless commitment to duty for over 63 years.
Buckingham Palace, London from the garden!
a glimpse back through the trees
A glimpse of Buckingham Palace, London from the garden
in the beautiful grounds of Buckingham Palace where annually the Queen hosts her garden parties.
A view of Buckingham Palace, London from the garden
Queen Victoria started the tradition of the Royal Garden party at Buckingham Palace, depicted in this painting by Frederick Sargent, June 20th 1887.
Queen Victoria's garden party at Buckingham Palace

Iconic London

A red London letter boxes and black London taxi
Red London letter boxes and black London taxis
An English telephone box
Red telephone boxes
Beautiful London red brick buildings in Mayfair
Red brick buildings of Mayfair London
and despite of all the luxury cars one finds lining the streets of Mayfair to me this 'Chelsea tractor'
is one of the best, still the ultimate British vehicle, albeit somewhat redundant here!
Landrover Defender, Mayfair, London, England
Selfridges, Oxford Street
Selfridges Oxford Street, London
On a late Friday afternoon London pubs are packed with people spilling out onto the streets
Early Friday evening at a London pub
Piccadilly Circus at dusk
Piccadilly Circus, London at dusk
London theatre district, Shaftesbury Avenue ~ 'Thriller Live' was fantastic, Michael lives on!
London's theatre district, Shaftsbury Avenue, Lyric Theatre
London, a city that never disappoints!
London, the British flag, the Union Jack
What do you love most about London?!

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Three different worlds on three different Saturdays! https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays/#respond Mon, 09 Mar 2015 07:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/Three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays We all know how a plane journey can transport us to a different world in a matter of hours. I have spent the last three Saturdays, just three weeks apart, in three completely different places thanks to the miracle of flight. From ...

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A view of Westminster from the Embankment, London, England

We all know how a plane journey can transport us to a different world in a matter of hours. I have spent the last three Saturdays, just three weeks apart, in three completely different places thanks to the miracle of flight. From the sophistication of a glamorous, world class, capital city; London, to the breathtaking beauty of the ski slopes of Lake Tahoe, to the sun drenched beaches and palm trees of Southern California.

London, from the Embankment

A '747' jet had carried me the 5000 miles home to England and my beautiful capital city of London. On a crisp February morning, under clear blue skies overhead we strolled along the Embankment admiring the view and the famous sights of this iconic city.
A walk along London's Embankment

 Admiralty Arch by Trafalgar Square

Admiralty Arch London

Lake Tahoe from  Northstar, ski resort

A week later another '747' had returned me back to where we live. The skies were a deeper blue, the air was considerably colder and the view was also of water, this time of a lake not a river; from the top of the mountain it was quite breathtaking!

A view of Lake Tahoe from the top of Northstar Ski resort
The corduroy runs were mostly man made but surprisingly good considering the dismal lack of precipitation. The camera pointed in one direction showed near perfect slopes for a day on skis, yet you only had to turn 180 degrees and  the reality of months of dry weather was revealed. Without the man made powder there would be no skiing whatsoever! The pine trees wore a mantel of dark green and were prematurely bursting with new growth, it seemed as if the white world of 'Narnia' had gone forever!
Bare slopes at Northstar, Lake Tahoe, California
Yet how the world can be transformed in 12 hours by just one winter storm!

Giant caterpillar snow ploughs soon got to work to clear the roads.

And I wondered if we were completely crazy to try to return home and to brave the freeways in such blizzard conditions.

We found our way home safely and within just another week I found climbing into another plane, only this one was considerably smaller than a '747'!

A view of the wineries of The Livermore Valley, Northern California

At 3000 feet, being navigated south, as the small, single engine plane lurched and bounced through the turbulence I did wonder whether sitting in a commercial plane might be preferable!
Flying over Livermore, Northern California
Within an hour we had sped across the Central Valley and were high above the Grapevine where the '5' Freeway wound its way through the hills down into the Los Angeles Basin.

Minutes later the sprawl of Los Angeles was below us.
The conurbation of Los Angeles, California
Famous landmarks were clearly visible.

 'The Rose Bowl', Pasadena

'The Rose Bowl' in Pasadena, Los Angeles County, California
On the ground at Orange County's John Wayne Airport, the jets arrived next to us.
Landed at John Wayne Airport Orange County, California
When we arrived to return home our 'Vans RV6A' looked very tiny parked up next to a Gulfstream G5 jet!!
Vans RV6A looking tiny parked next to a Gulf stream G5
Southwest Airlines taxied ahead of us,
Southwest Airlines taxing ahead of us at John Wayne Airport, Orange County, Southern California
we had to wait for them to take off first, it was quite impressive!
Southwest Airlines taking off ahead of us at John Wayne Airport, Orange County, Southern California

The Los Angeles Hills from 9000 feet

The Los Angeles Hills from 9000 feet

Approaching Mt Diablo

Approaching Mt Diablo, Northern California

Livermore Airport on descent

On approach at Livermore Airport, Northern California

Approaching at Livermore Airport, Northern California

Landing at Livermore Airport, Northern California
the miracle of flight!

 

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London, from Borough Market to Covent Garden https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden/#respond Sun, 07 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden When ever you visit a major city don't you feel you walk miles? I think it is one of the best ways to see everything, to become part of where you are and notice the details. With the hectic pace ...

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When ever you visit a major city don't you feel you walk miles? I think it is one of the best ways to see everything, to become part of where you are and notice the details. With the hectic pace most of us live our lives, it's actually a treat to have the time to amble, to stop at things that just happen to draw you and in London that's a lot! We had lunch at Nopi, where I had been longing to eat, we strolled through Borough Market and along The Southbank, crossing Waterloo Bridge to the Strand and on to Covent Garden. There was much to catch our attention! We had a quick rest back at our hotel before heading out again to the theater, what better way to spend a night in this fabulous and most beloved capital city!

The London Underground ~ Clear blue skies and mild weather had us walking by .
The London Underground
Shaftsbury Avenue  ~ the heart of London's theater district.

Shaftsbury Avenue, London, England

Nopi, Ottolenghi's restaurant

Yotam Ottolenghi became legendary in our household this summer, as my family inquired which combination of Ottolenghi's recipes I had prepared from one of his two wonderful cookery books, 'Jerusalem' or 'Plenty'.  Born in Jerusalem, Ottolenghi has shared some incredibly inspiring and mostly, very healthy recipes in his fabulous books and so to be able to eat in his esteemed restaurant, Nopi, was a real thrill.

Salads at NOPI, Yotam Ottolenghi's London restaurantThe food was delcious, roasted eggplant, with lemon yoghurt, spicy seeds and pickled cucumber, followed by courgette and manouri (a soft greek cheese) fritters with cardamon yoghurt.
We would highly recommend Nopi but you need to book in advance, it was packed even when we left at 4pm with dinner guests just beginning to trickle in. When I asked if there were plans to open any more restaurants (Nopi is the only one, although there are several Delis across London, some of which have seating) I was told 'no', Yotam likes to be personally involved to maintain quality. I was also told that Yotam is a very caring person and great to work for, it made me like him even more!!

To find Nopi in London click here

Borough Market

Exit to Borough Market, LondonPheasants for sale at London's Borough Market

Our food journey was to continue at fabulous Borough Market, where only the freshest of everything is on sale. If only I had had a kitchen to cook in that night and if only it were possible to buy fresh pheasants like these, for just 5 pounds each, back in California! Pheasant was always a Christmas tradition growing up, as a small child I can remember watching them being plucked.......glad I don't have to do that though!

Click on this link if you would like to read the history of this thousand year old London market!
Vegetables or sale at Borough Market, London
The incredible selection of mushrooms made me think I was back in Provence
Mushrooms for sale at Borough Market, London
and of course in December, Christmas was everywhere.
Christmas store at Borough Market, London, England
I wasn't too sure whether this old boy was reading his paper or whether he had nodded off at the end of a busy day!

An old man by the Christmas store at Borough Market, London, England

The Southbank

The Thames is iust round the corner from Borough and we ambled along the Southbank, Sir Christopher Wren's St Paul's Cathedral dominating the skyline from across the river.
St Pauls Cathedral, London, England
By the time we had reached Waterloo Bridge, where we crossed the Thames, the view back towards Borough was a modern symphony of angles and glass!

View of the Thames, London from Waterloo Bridge
Paddington Bear had greeted us several times on our stroll.
Paddington Bear on the Southbank, London, England
Each time in various dress!
Another Paddington Bear on the Southbank, London, England
Street performers were not to be outdone by a small bear!
A street performer on London's Southbank, England
Before we leave the Thames I feel I should pay tribute to the 888,246, heart rendering and beautiful poppies, created by artists Paul Cummins and Tom Piper, to mark the centenary of WWI and raise money for all war heroes. I so wish had we been in London a few days earlier, had we been we would have walked in a different direction towards Tower Bridge and the Tower of London to visit this stunning display......lest we never forget.
The Tower of London Poppies London to mark the centenary of WWI

Covent Garden

Here, Christmas was in full swing!
Covent Garden reindeer at Christmas
The Covent Garden Apple Market, packed with local artisans.
The Apple Market at Covent Garden, London, England
A Lego Santa, complete with reindeer pulling his sleigh!
Santa and his reindeer at Covent Garden, London, England

London Theater

Nowhere in the world is the theater more vibrant and exciting. It almost doesn't matter what you opt to see, you know it will be marvelous, as indeed 'The Commitments' were!
The Commitments in London's West End
We were dancing and singing in the aisles, who wouldn't be to such electrifying music?!
The Commitments Show in London's West End
Our day would not have been complete without a ride home in a London cabbie, where we pleased to see that he had 'the Knowledge'. If you are unfamiliar with what that is, click here, it is very impressive!!
The London taxis' ;Knowldege'
Have you been to London, what do you like to do there, I'd love to know?

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Exploring Charles Dickens' London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/exploring-charles-dickens-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/exploring-charles-dickens-london/#respond Thu, 04 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/exploring-charles-dickens-london Join me as we explore the London of Charles Dickens where Dickens first moved to in 1815 at the age of two. He described his time both here and then in Kent as the most idyllic period of his life, ...

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Southwark Cathedral, exploring Charles Dickins' London

Join me as we explore the London of Charles Dickens where Dickens first moved to in 1815 at the age of two. He described his time both here and then in Kent as the most idyllic period of his life, brought to a sudden end when in 1824, his father, always a poor manager of money, was sent to the Marshalsea Debtors Prison. Our tour began in the shadows of the church of St George the Martyr opposite the grave yard where stands the one remaining wall of what was once this prison. Here our highly recommended tour guide, Richard, set the scene, quoting from Dickens’ 'Little Dorrit', that whoever stands on this spot will be standing among "...the crowded ghosts of many miserable years..." And so began an incredible walk exploring Southwark, London, an area frequented by Dickens, where without Richard, many significant sights would be passed by unnoticed. A fascinating insight into this talented, somewhat tormented author whose enduring works continue to captivate millions, both in books and on the screen. I hope I do justice to what we discovered about the London of Charles Dickens!


The ominous wall of Marshalsea Debtors Prison,
where Dickens visited his father.
Only wall of Marshalsea Debtors Prison, Southwark, London
Previously schooled to become a gentleman, Dickens was now forced to work in Warren's Blacking Warehouse, (today the site of Charing Cross Station) pasting labels onto boot polish pots. The trauma he endured here emotionally impacted him forever, and is reflected in many of his subsequent great works, most notably David Copperfield. Just like many of the children he was to write about, this sad, little boy, quite abandoned, explored the sights of London, discovering all aspects of its life which later he wrote about so eloquently.

Looking back from the prison wall across the graveyard to the church, it was not hard to imagine the bleakness of this twelve year old's situation.
Church of St George the Martyr Southwark, London
However things did improve and on his father’s release from prison, Dickens resumed his education and two years later became a clerk for Ellis and Blackmore, solicitors in London’s Gray’s Inn. Here he taught himself shorthand and within just 18 months had set himself up as a shorthand recorder at Doctors’ Commons, by St Paul’s Cathedral.
St Paul's Cathedral London, England
Archway into White Hard Yard where Dickens workedIn 1832 he became a reporter for ‘The Mirror of Parliament’ and, in 1833, his first story ‘A Dinner at Poplar Walk’ was published. A year later he began working for the ‘Morning Chronicle’ becoming friends with its music critic George Hogarth. When, in 1835, Hogarth became editor of the 'Evening Chronicle', working in White Hart Yard, he asked Dickens to contribute sketches which became Sketches by ‘Boz’, (Dickens’ pseudonym) In 1836 Dickens married Hogarth’s daughter, and his first installment of Pickwick Papers appeared. To the left is the Archway into White Hart Yard where Dickens then worked whilst writing Pickwick Papers.

When its originator and illustrator, Robert Seymour, committed suicide Dickens replaced him with Hablot Browne, who remained his illustrator for the next 20 years. Once Dickens introduced the character of Sam Weller to Pickwick Papers it became a publishing phenomenon making Dickens a celebrity of his time! His success was in some part due to that this endings were always cliff hangers, leading his readers to want to return and read more!

Around the corner from White Hart Yard is George Inn, frequented by both Shakespeare and Dickens. Only one side of its original courtyard survives and it is the only inn of this design still in existence in London today.
St George's Inn Southwark, London
When plays were originally performed in the 16th century and before, they were done so on minstrel galleries such as these, the design of which was replicated in the first theaters, notably Shakespeare’s Globe, just a short walk from here.
Shakespeare's Globe theatre, London
Following the untimely death of his sister-in-law, in 1837, a broken hearted Dickens threw himself into his writing. He finished Oliver Twist, Nicholas Nickleby and started work on Barnaby Rudge, becoming one of the most popular writers of the age. A year later he visited America where he was met with an almost hysterical welcome. He then wrote Martin Chuzzlewit (1843–44) followed by, possibly his best known work, A Christmas Carol (1843).

We stopped by this small insignificant patch of land, known as Crossbones Graveyard which many believe to be what Dickens had in mind when he described the graveyard visited by Scrooge with 'the ghost of Christmas yet to come'.
Crossbones graveyard, Southwark, London
For centuries this had been the burial ground for prostitutes. The surrounding land stretching down to the Thames, was once owned by the Bishops of Winchester. As sailors stopped along the water, several brothels grew up. Although willing to take rent for the brothels, the bishops refused the burial of their inmates, 'the Geese of Winchester', on consecrated land and hence they were buried here. After the dissolution of monasteries it became a burial site for paupers until the late 1850s when it was realized it was not healthy to bury the dead so close to where people lived! Since the building of the underground's Jubilee line there has been an on going dispute about destroying the graveyard. Local people have protested that it would be wrong to eradicate somewhere where approximately 15,000 people have been buried. On the railings outside are flowers and ribbons remembering those that were buried here. Their objections have been heard and there is now going to be a memorial garden on the site.

As Dickens fame grew he became friends with some influential people such as the great reformer Octavia Hill the founder of the National Trust, the first building that they saved being George's Inn!
Cottages built by Octavia Hill in Southwark, London
They believed that the best way to help the poor escape the poverty trap was through self improvement, cottages such as these were built across London, tenants were taught a simple trade and to grow produce from the gardens and they were required to pay rent. Today this garden is one of the only remaining, it is still owned by a trust and provides shelter for the old. Now overshadowed by the 21st century, the view is quite different! I wonder what Dickens and the Victorians would have made of The Shard?!
View from the cottage garden Southwark, London
Another influential association of Dickens was with Miss Angela Burdett-Coutts, who in 1846, at the age of 18 inherited the Coutts 1.8 million pound fortune. Wanting to use her money for good works she turned to Dickens for help with a project which became known as Urania Cottage to provide shelter for prostitutes. Dickens and Coutts became close friends and she even paid for Dickens' son to go to Eton.
We continued on to the river, passing the Hop Exchange, where the hops from Kent were bought to be sold in London.
The Hops Exchange, Southwark, London
We stopped under the shadows of Southwark Cathedral which Dickens would have known well, although in his time it would have just been a church.

Looking out across the Thames to a skyline, very much changed since Dickens’ time, the inscription on the wall, by another famous man, Sir Walter Raleigh, (1552-1618) was very poignant;

"There are two things scarce matched in the universe, the sun in heaven and on the Thames on earth"
London skyline from Southwark, much changed since Dickens time
Our tour came to an end by fabulous Borough Market, also featured in Pickwick Papers.
Borough Market, Southwark London
We stood below the only archway of the original London Bridge which would have existed during Dickens' life, the remaining was bought by an American and today is at Lake Havasu in Arizona.
Only remaining archway of London Bridge from Dickens' times
and looked up at the steps where Nancy was murdered by Bill Sykes in Oliver Twist.
Steps by London Bridge where Dickens wrote of Nancy's murder by Bill Sykes in Oliver Twist
Sadly by 1858 Dickens' personal life had fallen into disarray. He divorced his wife, devastating his family and went on to live a very clandestine life style.

Dickens began a series of highly profitable reading tours which continued, despite his failing health, for twelve years when on 8th June, 1870, at just 58, Dickens collapsed at dinner and died the next evening.........

Should you be in London, I would so recommend one of Richard's tours. They last just under 2 hours but you leave wishing he could be your guide all day! He brings magic and life to all he describes with such passion and animation, it's almost like stepping back in time! You can discover more about this and other tours he offers by clicking here

Where to find Borough in the Southwark District of London ~ England

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The streets of London at Christmas https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas/#respond Tue, 02 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas Growing up in England, I always associate cold and frosty weather with Christmas. Wandering around the streets of London last week bought those childhood memories flooding back. The weather was mixed, mostly damp and drizzly, quite mild but bundling up in ...

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Oxford Street, London, England at Christmas

Growing up in England, I always associate cold and frosty weather with Christmas. Wandering around the streets of London last week bought those childhood memories flooding back. The weather was mixed, mostly damp and drizzly, quite mild but bundling up in a coat was still required. The clouds did part on occasion but even then the light had that subdued, wintry quality. By 4.30pm darkness had enveloped us and London’s sparkling lights of Christmas shone above like small twinkles of seasonal expectation. Everywhere on the streets of London there was an air of excitement and anticipation. London's Oxford Street bustled with impatient shoppers as the city's iconic London red buses and London black taxi's rumbled by.

As I approached the legendary department store Selfridges,
Selfridges Department Store, Oxford Street, London
and having recently watched the story of its beginnings in 'Mr Selfridges'
Selfridges sign, Oxford Street, London

I wondered what it's famous founder, Harry Selfridge would think of this years Christmas window display.
Selfridges, London, Christmas window 2014
Further along Oxford Street was my favourite store, John Lewis proudly showing off their 'Christmas penguin', the star of Britain's 2014 favorite Christmas advert. Watch it to see why, it perfectly encapsulates the magic of Christmas; a child's imagination. To watch, click here  and do let me know what you think! 'The Christmas they've been dreaming of.'
The John Lewis Christmas advert 2014
Shop windows everywhere exuded Christmas
Christmas window in London
A Christmas window in London
No more so in ultra exclusive Mayfair, this was one of the windows of an outfitters who supply 'Their Majesties',
A Christmas window in Mayfair, London
and this is where they get their stationary...'by Royal Appointment'!
London Stationers at Christmas
Some of these expensive Mayfair establishments had liveried doormen waiting at the door to greet you. Peeking in through their windows it was like stepping into the times of Downton Abbey's Dowager Countess of Grantham, to an era where when one arrived by horse and carriage with a servant hurrying behind you to gather up your purchases, a world of extreme opulence which for some, clearly still exists today, incredible!

Bohemian Carnaby Street beat to a totally different rhythm with the most up to date fashions reflecting its 1970's vibe
Carnaby Street, London
The streets became more swollen as daylight faded where I waited for the traffic to come to its momentary halt to be able to cross the road at Piccadilly Circus.
Piccadilly Circus, London
Behind me the stately tower of Westminster Abbey was just visible in the late afternoon haze
Tower of Westminster Abbey from St James', London
and when I back turned around it was if the lights of Piccadilly Circus and somehow instantly been switched on
Piccadilly Circus,London at dusk
The Regent Street lights, sponsored this year by Hollywood (I don't remember that happening as a child!) made the sky seem blue.

Christmas lights of Regents Street London
A lone Christmas tree in Berkeley Square seemed much more in keeping, far removed from the commercialism on every other corner.
Christmas tree in Berkley Square, London
The lights of the surrounding streets were more subtle as befitting this upscale neighborhood

Christmas 2014, lights of Mayfair London
There was more to explore the following day. Join me next time as I discover Charles Dickens' London and appropriately for Dickens, in the words of the famous song 'let me take you by the hand and lead you through the streets of London'..............

I'd love to know what your neighborhood looks like at this time of year, do comment and share your thoughts with each other below!

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Christmas Carols at the Royal Albert Hall London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london/#respond Mon, 24 Dec 2012 16:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london-1 Making our way through the streets of London on a crisp but damp December afternoon the air was full of the anticipation of Christmas. We were about to become part of a very British Christmas tradition, carol singing at a ...

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The Royal Albert Hall London, England

Making our way through the streets of London on a crisp but damp December afternoon the air was full of the anticipation of Christmas. We were about to become part of a very British Christmas tradition, carol singing at a very grand venue, London's Royal Albert Hall!

Driving through London, we passed the magnificent Law Court's Rolls Building at the Royal Courts of Justice.
Royal Courts, London, England
Charles Dicken's Old Curiosity Shop.
Charles Dicken's Old Curiosity Shop, London England
Whitehall, leading to Downing Street and Westminster, congested with traffic on a this grey December day.    Whitehall, London, leading to Westminster and Downing Street
Buckingham Palace, regal and stately, clearly its most important occupant away, as the Royal Standard Flag had been replaced with the Union Jack!
Buckingham Palace, London, England
Admiring the Albert Memorial, (commissioned by Queen Victoria in memory of her beloved husband, Prince Albert who died of typhoid in 1861) in Kensington Gardens, before we escaped the drizzle.
Prince Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, London, England
Christmas carols and  a collection of seasonal favorites accompanied by the London Concert Chorus and London Concert Orchestra under the magnificent dome of The Royal Albert Hall...................can your Christmas spirits be stirred any further?!!
Royal Albert Hall, London, England
Magical, heart rousing singing  and dancing in the aisles! Hugging your family and the stranger next to you, wishing them 'Happy Christmas', in Tiny Tim's immortal words 'God bless us, one and all'!
Christmas Concert in Royal Albert Hall, London, England, December 2012
Christmas Concert in Royal Albert Hall, London, England, December 2012
Opening of Royal Albert Hall, 1871 London England

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