I haven’t written a post for a while, feeling unsure during these difficult times about what people might want to read.

Springtime in Provence?

But then I’m not actually there, and like most people can’t even get there.....

Life on the ski slopes of Lake Tahoe?

Perhaps that would sound too idyllic? Living on the ski slopes at Lake Tahoe's ski resort, Northstar, especially now, has been very special. We've felt blessed to be surrounded by such breathtaking winter beauty, able to ski from our front door, but even here, life has been restricted and often lonely.....

Then I thought about comparing life under COVID in Britain, California and Provence? But despite the glimpses of light at the end of the tunnel, would people really want to read any more about COVID?

I started to question why I even write this blog, that perhaps my silence had driven my readers away?

And then I received two comments on posts I’d written several years ago. One about the WWII American Air base at Greenham Common in England (written in 2018) and the other about Changi Gaol in Singapore (written in (2015). Both very personal and both connected to World War II. A reminder that however challenging and for some tragic, this last year has been, we haven’t had to endure the horrific challenges of war ~ the tyranny of occupation, the terror of being bombed or despair of parting with our loved ones leaving to fighting a war no one ever wanted……

That these people had reached out to me also helped me realize why I write; connecting with others, that my ramblings get found and resonate. I often fret that my focus should be about sharing useful information, travel related or otherwise, when in fact the posts which receive the most love are often those about the journey of life, written from the heart. So forgive me, here are some seasonal, heart-felt perspectives about my three special places.

Provence in the spring

I've been in Provence in the spring many times and of course it’s beautiful!  Like many other places at this time of year the air smells fresh and crisp, the buds and leaves are bursting, Provence's abundant fruit trees kissed with blossom petals. These cherry blossoms bloom outside our front door, hence the name of our house ~ Maison des Cerises ~House of the Cherry Trees.

All across the region, throughout the sprawling vineyards, the vines' gnarly fists begin to show the promise of the coming season's abundance as the leaves of surrounding trees unfurl into a canopy of green.

Spring flowers splash cheer along the roadside heralding new life, brimming their radiance in the market stalls and shops. Lourmarin's delightful florist 'Une Fleur M'a Di' welcoming the season with a whimsical touch.

And in Provence's markets, bright yellow bouquets of Mimosa take center stage.

El-fresco diners flow onto the cobbled streets where below the clay tiled rooftops and shuttered windows the ambience of this ancient place is so beguiling.

The video art spectacle Carrières de Lumières resumes next month, April 3 2021, one of my favorite places to visit and take our visitors. This year it will be profiling the work of Cezanne and Kandinsky. Even though Carrières de Lumières' stunning Van Gogh production is  now being shown in other cities, including San Francisco, its' setting at Les Baux-de-Provence in an old bauxite quarry cave, nestled under the crumbling ramparts of a medieval Provencal village perché, is somehow more enticing!!

There’s been some changes in the 13 months since we've been in Lourmarin. An impressive new shop for our wonderful bakery ~ Boulangerie de Stéphane Riquier ~an even shorter stroll from our house! And next door Lourmarin has been blessed with the addition of a butcher, Boucherie de Lourmarin ~ Avenue du 8 mai 1945 Route d'Apt 84160 Lourmarin ~ thanks to the wonders of their social media posts I know I'm going to be a regular customer! I so hope later this year we can return to our enchanting Provencal village.

England in the spring

In early March the British Isles become resplendent with spring flowers and blossoms, stunning banks of primroses tumbling throughout the woodlands. My own Home thoughts from Abroad, so aptly written by Robert Browning, years ago, resonate deeply ~ “Oh to be in England now that Spring is here”

Fields of baby lambs.

Normally at this time of year pub gardens get busy, people happy to be able to enjoy a pint and lunch outside. Sadly, this year, during COVID, they'll have to wait, hopefully only until mid April.

And in spring, English gardens everywhere burst into life.

A tad cooler than Provence, but that same feeling of expectancy, with blossoms sprinkling a confetti of petals across the tree branches.

Lake Tahoe, California

When we first arrived in Lake Tahoe in mid-November, just the highest slopes of The Northstar Ski Resort, where we've been living, were dusted with snow.

And then the snow came and the resort sprung to life. Thanks to Northstar's efficiency and their COVID precautions, the resort has stayed open and we've felt safe enjoying skiing in this stunning place.

Those initial days of powder were soon followed by winter storms. The view from our window became a blanket of winter white.

Not without its challenges for those that needed to travel!

But making the magnificent views across the lake from the top of the mountain even more spectacular.

The nearby town of Truckee became carpeted with banks of thick cotton wool.

And we watched in delight and pride as our our 2 year-old granddaughter became competent with her tiny boots and skis for the first time ~ "More Grandpa! More!"

And then there's Lake Tahoe itself ..........

My three vey special places in the early spring. I hope you are reading this from somewhere you love as much, stay safe, things are getting better!

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I'm delighted to have been invited to speak at the Pilsudski Institute, London on May 14th 2019 about my novel  THE SUNFLOWER FIELD

Interwoven with a modern day, fictitious wartime mystery, THE SUNFLOWER FIELD  tells the true story of three Polish mathematicians who in 1932 first cracked the ENIGMA code. Considered completely unbreakable, the ENIGMA code was used by the Nazi's to encrypt their messages before transmission. Sharing this intelligence with the Allies on the eve of World War II, it was one of the most significant contributions to the Allied victory and the foundation for subsequent wartime code-breaking efforts.

Barely acknowledged and forgotten within the folds of history it's a story that's hardly been told, until now.

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On June 5th 1944, with the world spinning on its axis, General Dwight Eisenhower addressed 1430 American paratroopers, from Greenham Common, England. “The eyes of the world are upon you.”  He announced, watching at just before midnight, as at 11 second intervals, eighty one C-47 Dakotas took off for Normandy to participate in one of the most decisive events of World War II, D-DAY.

Greenham Common's military past

Eisenhower was sixty miles west of London at a United States Air Force (USAF) base on Greenham Common, a well established historical military site. In 1643, during the English Civil War, Oliver Cromwell’s men had waited there to stop the forces of King Charles I. In 1745, it was where five thousand troops prepared to quell an invading Scottish rebellion led by Bonnie Prince Charlie. In World War I, British tank troops had trained there and in March 1941 before America became involved in World War II, RAF Bomber Command was based there.

Greenham Common as an American World War II base

When the USAF arrived at Greenham in 1942 one of its lodges became the HQ for the 101st Airborne division and one of its manors, Bowden House, the HQ for USSAF 51st Troop Carrier Wing. It was from here that the invasion of North Africa was planned and where in 1944 Churchill, De Gaulle and Eisenhower planned the airborne element of the D-Day landings.

During the time the Americans were based at Greenham, it hosted several famous American stars who visited to entertain the troops. Bing Crosby, Betty Grable, Dorothy Lamour, Louis Armstrong and Glenn Miller were just some of it’s illustrious visitors.

It was also from here that my father, whose family home was a couple of miles away, first became acquainted with Americans. Servicemen, who according to my father's teenage recollections, were all handsome and smartly dressed, happy to share their candy with ration deprived English children. It was the beginning of a life long respect and admiration for a country, that over fifty years later, would be where I would live.

Greenham Common is nestled next to the bustling market of town of Newbury where my parents met and to the south lies Watership Down, (immortalized in Richard Adam’s novel of the same name) where bunnies still hop. Close by is Highclere Castle, now world famous as the location for Downton Abbey.

Covering just over two square miles, resplendent with gorse, bracken and purple heather it was where as a child I was taken to pick blackberries and where a few days ago I returned. I went to visit its 1951 Control Tower, recently opened to the public to tell its Cold War story.

The Greenham Common Control Tower

Surveying the panorama before me and blessed with clear skies I discovered other fascinating facts about Greenham. In addition to its military connections, in 1839 it was at Greenham that the winning post of one of England's finest horse race tracks stood, for the Newbury races. In 1873 it was the site of the Crookham Golf Club, one of the first inland courses in England.

Beginning in 1973 it became the host for Six International Air tattoos several of which I had attended! In 1980 Richard Noble broke the British land speed record here, reaching a speed of 245mph. Chosen by Noble probably because of the length of its runaway, for the same reason, at one point Greenham was designated as an alternative to Heathrow airport for Concorde and as the European landing ground for the Space shuttle.

At the top of the Control tower

The Control Tower was built in 1951 during the Cold War, when the USAF returned to Greenham, and new runways and buildings were constructed. B47 jets were deployed from Greenham followed by B52 bombers until the Americans departed again in 1964. The USAF maintenance hangers, are clearly visible from the tower now part of New Greenham Park Industrial Park.

Greenham as a Cruise Missile Base

The threat of the Cold War gripped the world on into the 1980's and as a consequence the Americans returned. Greenham became a controversial cruise missile base resulting in a woman’s protest camp being established round its boundaries. When it was announced that 96 cruise missiles would be arriving, on 12 December 1980, thirty thousand people, mostly women, joined hands in protest, circling Greenham’s entire 9 mile perimeter fence. In 1981 seventy thousand people formed a human fourteen mile chain from Greenham to the Atomic Weapon and Research Establishment at Aldermaston where Britain’s nuclear weapons are made.

In 1982 the USAF's 501st Tactical Missile Wing was activated as a launching ground at Greenham and a year later the first missiles arrived. An Alert and Maintenance Area (GAMA) site had been built to house the missiles, six shelters all designed to be able to withstand a direct hit. Each one was 50 feet high, 150 feet long and 16 feet wide, covered in reinforced concrete, titanium sheeting, sand and clay one being designed to be on permanent alert with living quarters.

Today they are privately owned and often rented out as movies locations, Star Wars and Top Gear have both been filmed here as well as a music video for singer Beyoncé.

The GAMA shelters at Greenham Common

In 1988, following the signing of the Intermediate Range Nuclear Forces Treaty in which USSR & USA agreed to destroy their missiles a Soviet Inspection took place at Greenham. In 1991 the cruise missiles were destroyed and in 1992 the USAF returned Greenham Common to the Ministry of Defence.

In 1994 the airbase was designated as being of special scientific interest and in 1997 the Greenham Common Trust bought it for a million pounds. It eventually became a business park and Newbury District Council bought the open common for one pound. In 2000 the last of the peace camp disbanded and by 2002 the common was opened for all to enjoy as it is today.

In September 2018 The Greenham Common Control Tower was opened.

If you would like to visit it's free, the tower hosts events and talks, check the website for details and hours. Choose a sunny day and bring your walking shoes as the common is a delight to explore!

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“Never before in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to...." one man.

Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill  

In May 1940, after the shadow of war had descended across Europe, having been ignored for years about the increasing threat of Hitler, Winston Churchill became British Prime Minister. Driven by an incredible sense of what was right he stood alone but he stood firm and using the power of his words he galvanized a nation, "mobilizing the English language and sending it into battle.” He later commented 'It felt as if I were walking with destiny and that my whole life had been but a preparation for this hour and for this trial.”

Recently magnificently portrayed by Gary Oldman in ‘Darkest Hour’  (which has already won him a Golden Globe, a B.A.F.T.A and the Oscar nomination) this film leaves one in no doubt as to the accuracy of those words.

The story of this incredible man, arguably the greatest leader of all time, began a few miles from the university spires of Oxford, at Blenheim Palace Woodstock. I have written about and visited the palace often, twice last autumn. It's somewhere I'm always drawn back to, perhaps in large part because Blenheim is one of England's most resplendent stately homes, a UNESCO world heritage site since 1987, but also because of my passionate regard for Sir Winston Churchill.

The History of Blenheim Palace

The estate and title 'Duke of Marlborough' was given to the army General, John Churchill, Winston Churchill's great forebear, in 1705, by Queen Ann in recognition for his great victory at the Battle of Blenheim on August 13 1704. The palace was designed by Vanbrugh and took 17 years to build. John Churchill and his wife Sarah oversaw the project although only Sarah saw its completion.

The front of Blenheim Palace

Blenheim Palace remains the only property in the United Kingdom which is not a royal residence to be called a palace. This is thought to be because when it was built the locals proudly referred to it as such and the name stuck!

The Rear of Blenheim Palace

The Battle of Blenheim

The Battle of Blenheim led to the end of the War of Spanish Succession. The battle is depicted on a series of beautiful Belgian tapestries which line the walls of the palace.

Winston Churchill and Blenheim Palace

Winston always felt a deep seated connection to Blenheim Palace and his illustrious ancestor John Churchill. As a profuse historical writer Winston once remarked “The longer you look back, the farther you can look forward.” His first book was an epic biography of John Churchill. He went on to produce multi-volume works on the two world wars and then 'The History of the English-Speaking Peoples'. In 1957 he won the Nobel Prize for literature "for his mastery of historical and biographical description as well as for brilliant oratory in defending exalted human values".

Although John Churchill, was the first Duke of Marlborough, Winston was not born to the dukedom, his father Randolph, being the 3rd son to John Spencer Churchill, the 7th Duke of Marlborough. Destiny, however determined that Blenheim should be Winston's birth place when he arrived a few weeks early during a family visit to the palace. Winston was thrilled to have been born at Blenheim.“I am proud to be born at Blenheim ….. this great house is one of the precious links which joins us to our famous past, which is also the history of the English speaking people on whose unity the future of the free world depends.” 

The room at Blenheim Palace where Winston Churchill was born

The 9th Duke of Marlborough and Consuelo Vanderbilt

Winston Churchill’s mother, Jennie Jerome was American and not the only American to marry into the family. Churchill’s cousin, Charles Richard John Spencer-Churchill, the 9th Duke of Marlborough, married the beautiful American railway heiress Consuelo Vanderbilt, who at just 17 was coerced against her wishes to marry the 9th Duke.

The marriage was not happy and once 'the heir and spare' had been born it ended in divorce. But the marriages achieved  its objectives, the title’s succession was assured, the Vanderbilt money saved the Palace from near ruin and the Vanderbilts won themselves a much coveted English title.

Despite the divorce, Winston remained close to both Consuelo and his cousin (known as Sunny) who always welcomed warmly Winston to Blenheim. Throughout his life Blenheim remained dear to Winston's heart and it was at Blenheim, in 1917 that he proposed to the love of his life Clementine Hozier, marrying her just a month later in London.

Winston Churchill as a statesman

Like his great ancestor John Churchill, Winston Churchill had an illustrious military career before following his father into politics. And just like John Churchill it was a world crisis that called him to meet his greatest challenge.

As Prime Minister, during the dark days of World War II, Winston Churchill's courage and determination saved the nation he so loved. Refusing to contemplate defeat and to 'never surrender', as a master orator his speeches, broadcast around the world, inspired and strengthened the Allies' will to defeat the common Nazi enemy.

In June 1944 when victory in Europe had been secured, this much deserved poem, on display at Blenheim, was published in the Times, in England.

St Martin's Church, Bladon

The gargantuan, inspiring life of this great man began at Blenheim Palace and it ended on its doorstep. Sir Winston Churchill chose to be buried within the shadows of the palace, in the humble graveyard of St Martin's, Bladon next to the Blenheim Estate.

The grave of Sir Winston Churchill

Sir Winston Churchill should never be forgotten. The Churchill Exhibition at Blenheim Palace pays homage to this great man to whom the free world will remain indebted to for eternity.

Blenheim Palace is open to the public throughout the year hosting numerous events check the website for details.

Within in an hour of London, I highly recommend  a visit and do allow yourself time to spot by in adjacent, picturesque Woodstock, you won't be disappointed!

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Last time I wrote about my incredible and somewhat unexpected tower tour at Salisbury Cathedral. But our adventure didn't end with the tour, for apart from being a magnificent testament to medieval architecture, we discovered that the cathedral is also home to the Magna Carta, one of the world's most famous documents which for centuries has inspired and encouraged movements for freedom and constitutional government around the world.

The Magna Carta at Salisbury

Wandering along the cloisters of the cathedral you will come to the exquisite Chapter House where the Magna Carta is housed.

Entrance to the Chapter House

Handwritten in Latin on parchment (sheepskin), it is the best preserved of the four remaining original charters still in existence, all of which date back to 1215. It was bought to Sarum by the archbishop of Canterbury's chief official, Elias of Dereham who played a significant role in its negotiation. He was also responsible for the distribution of at least ten of the original charters which probably numbered between 40 to 60.

Inside the Chapter House

What is the Magna Carta?

The Magna Carta (literally meaning ‘great charter’) was written to establish the fundamental rights of people and the monarch, particularly with regards to their relationship with the church.

It was negotiated at Runnymede, near Windsor, in 1215 between King John, the Church and key Barons of England to establish constraints upon what they considered the tyrannical rule of King John. Enraged by crippling taxes imposed upon them to pay for the King’s wars in France, the Barons wished to protect their rights and wealth. At the same time, the Church, integral to all aspects of medieval life providing education, healthcare and welfare, as well as being an an immensely wealthy landowner, angered by King John’s interference and rejection of the Pope's choice for the next archbishop of Canterbury wished to assert their freedom.

Despite signing the charter, King John had no intention of abiding by it and as soon as he had regained the Pope’s support by agreeing to his choice for archbishop of Canterbury, he appealed to him for the charter’s annulment. During the resulting civil war King John died and was succeeded by his nine year old son Henry III. When those fighting on behalf of the young king were victorious, to cement the peace, his regent, William Marshall, reissued the Magna Carta and it became a document in support of the monarch.

A copy of the Magna Carta

(Photographs of the original are not permitted apologies for this poor copy)

The significance of the Magna Carta

A powerful and radical concept was thereby established namely that no King should act above the law. The Magna Carta became the test by which succeeding monarchs were judged. In 1225 Henry III issued a revised Magna Carta and by 1297 it had become a firmly established part of English law.

The Magna Carta today

The Magna Carta, has left fundamentally important legal legacies throughout the world. Four of the original clauses are still part of English law today, three of which establish individual freedoms. The Magna Carta was the foundation for the jury system, where court cases are decided by ordinary people and it also established the right to take a government to court should the law be felt to be unjust or being unfairly applied.

So my trip to Salisbury was one of fascinating discoveries! Like I said last time, don't miss the chance to visit it if you are in the area click here to visit its website for details. And as one of you so kindly wrote to remind me, if you would like to learn more about this incredible piece of English History,  'Sarum' by Edward Rutherford and 'Pillars of the Earth' by Ken Follett are great epic sagas to read.

Next time, at the request of so many of you we return to Provence and more about my house in Lourmarin, I promise!!

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This year I've divided my time almost equally between the three parts of the world I hold most dear. Many of you have been asking me where I think is 'home'. I am no longer sure of the place but wherever I maybe, I am and always will be an English girl and proud to be so. And so as the year dwindles to an end during this magical Christmas season it is perhaps appropriate that my last post for 2017 is from England. As you all know I love history, exploring ruins, palaces, villages perched, châteaux, churches and cathedrals to discover their stories. Whilst still in England earlier this month, on an ordinary Wednesday, standing in front of Salisbury Cathedral, little did I know what extraordinary 'trouble' my curiosity was going to led me into!

Salisbury Cathedral was built within site of Sarum, an iron age settlement dating to the 1st century B.C.

Following the 1066 Norman invasion of England, William the Conqueror built a castle and then a cathedral at Sarum which was completed in 1092.

Sarum was abandoned when a new cathedral was built in 1220 soaring 123 meters high above the city that grew up around it, Salisbury. Almost entirely Early English Gothic this resplendent place of worship took just thirty eight years to build using about 2,800 tons of oak, 420 tons of lead and 60,000 tons of local limestone from Chilmark and Tisbury about ten miles away.

The original cathedral, completed in 1258, did not have its famous landmark spire. The spire, Britain's tallest, was added between 1315 and 1330 to help make the cathedral more easy to locate for the hundreds of visiting pilgrims upon whose revenue the cathedral depended upon.

Stepping across the cathedral's threshold I was immediately enveloped within its serenity and architectural wonder. Speechless I gazed above me thinking about all the millions who, over its 750 year history, had stood marveling at this seemingly miraculous construction, pondering all the revelations it could share.

The first being that Salisbury Cathedral is home to what is believed to be the world’s oldest clock. Dating back to 1386, without hands or a face, it is powered by weights and told the time by the chiming of its bell. Commissioned in the 14th century it was originally installed in the bell tower between the cathedral and the city gate. When the tower was demolished in the late 1700's it was moved to the Cathedral tower until 1884 when it was replaced. In 1929 it was moved into the cathedral and restored in 1956.

Standing amongst the pews and gazing up at the cathedral's towering arches the magnificence of this place of worship was awe inspiring.

But I had no idea that having just agreed to go on a tour of the Cathedral tower with my friend, that I would end up standing directly below this centuries old, intricate spiders web. Thinking (or maybe we weren’t thinking!) we would just be climbing a few spiral, stone steps nothing could have prepared us for the astounding brilliance of what we were about to be shown.

Led by an amazingly knowledgeable guide (who I am sure must have been the lovely Jim Broadbent's brother), we twisted round the first series of steps quickly realising that our ascent was only just beginning. Perhaps this was not such a good idea, a thought which was quelled by the view which we were treated to following a short walk along on a narrow passsage which led us out onto a gallery above the sanctuary.

Standing with my back against the wall (I actually don’t like heights!) I was none the less transfixed, it felt as if we had become part of the very fabric of the building, immersed within the centuries old genius and craftsmanship all around us.

Encouraged by our guide we gingerly turned round and behind us was a kaleidoscope of colour, tiny pieces of medieval glass intricately pieced together to tell its religious story, disappearing above us seemingly into infinity. But before we could deliberate too long over the wonders of its creation we were ushered on to the next Rapunzel tower of winding stairs.

Just as before, when eventually and mercifully the steps ended, we were led through another corridor and this time found ourselves above the domed ceiling of the cathedral.

Once the lights were snapped on a tunnel of light revealed the cathedral's intricate, perfectly formed timber framed roof directly above us, we were utterly mesmerized! The realization that all of this had been transported and assembled at these dizzy heights, by hand, with none of the equipment or engineering knowledge we have today AND the length of time that it had been there was almost too much to comprehend.

Incredulously we listened to the story of its construction humbled by the centuries old skill, marveling at the achievement. We were further inspired to learn that there are still people today studying the same stone mason and joinery skills, available to make repairs, albeit aided somewhat by the inventions of Edison and Black & Decker……

Utterly absorbed by our guide's fascinating narrative, we followed him across the roof line into a further ‘chamber’ of spiraling medieval scaffolding.

On the way we passed window panes which astonishingly were covered in graphite. We were told that in the 1980's the panes had been carefully removed and sold for five pounds each to raise money. Anyone who bought one could engrave whatever they chose knowing their window pane would be immortalised forever within the cathedral, it had raised thousands of pounds!!

After our next ascent we found ourselves ensconced in an open space where once again a lattice of scaffolding reached up high above our heads. Quietly standing in the far corner stood a perilous looking wooden structure ascending upwards. With a sinking heart we realized with dread that we were probably going to be expected to navigate it!

Now when I say I don’t like heights, I really don’t and yes I have been known to get a tad claustrophobic in confined places, so what on earth was I doing here?! I glanced at my trusted friend who also looked somewhat concerned but just as we were about to articulate our trepidation our guide had disappeared within the timbered tower of terror and with thumping hearts off we followed!

Gritting my teeth and tightly gripping the open wooden sides I forced myself not to look down and to concentrate on the sound of the brightly chattering narrative leading me upwards. And yes I was frightened but also enthralled.....

In truth it wasn’t as bad as it had seemed from the bottom, well not after we had reached the top, where once more we gasped in wonder, finding ourselves in a large and lofty space, phew.... we had reached our destination, the top of the tower.

But maybe not, for there in the corner sat yet another pylon of death defying steps and as I glanced at my intrepid friend, now looking a little bit pale, we both realised, deep joy, that our guide was once again vanishing among them…..

This time it was even more tense, but fairly confident that this had to be the last upwards ascent and refusing to think about the fact that what goes up has to come down, I pushed the prospect of negotiating the descent from my mind. At the top (yes we had made it) we found ourselves in a surprisingly large chamber and gazed in awestruck amazement at the sight above our heads.

It was almost too much to believe, that this incredible feat of engineering was the age it was, that it had been achieved at all and so long ago and clearly constructed completely brilliantly, definitely brilliant, for it was still here!

Taking pride of place was a medieval windlass used to winch the stone and timber building materials, up to these dizzy heights. We were told that the windlass  is one of just three which have survived in situ, the other two being in Peterborough Cathedral and Tewkesbury Abbey.

Once the various modifications over the centuries at the hands of other geniuses such as Sir Christopher Wren and subsequent Victorian engineers had been explained we were led out for the final thrill, the view from the top of the tower.

Quite frighteningly thrilling, it was utterly breathtaking. Old Sarum was pointed out to us, the small green mound in the far distance.

A close up of Old Sarum

And no, there wasn’t a lift down and yes, clearly we lived to tell the tale and to not regret any part of it. It actually felt like a privilege to have been able to see at such close quarters such mind blowing, centuries old talent!

Somewhat chuffed at our achievement, totally paltry compared to what we’d been admiring, we realised in amazement that our little adventure had lasted almost three hours! Arm in arm, like two over excited, puffed up school girls we went off to enjoy a very late lunch, wondering what scampers we might led each other into next time we went out to do some Christmas shopping!

Salisbury Cathedral is open year round and the Tower Tour is available most days click here to visit its website for details. An hour & half from London, not far from other famous sights like Stonehenge and the Roman city of Bath, it is a truly memorable place to visit. It is also home to another spectacular piece of English history, The Magna Carta, more about that next time, in the New Year, which I hope it is full of peace and joy for you all!

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The Spread Eagle Hotel can be found in the pretty market town of Midhurst, West Sussex, in the heart of the beautiful South Downs, just over an hour south of London. Steeped in history, it is one of the oldest buildings in the region, boasting original medieval lattice windows, exposed oak beams, ancient doorways, equisite tapestries, undulating floors and inglenook fireplaces large enough to sit in next to squashy sofas and an inviting bar! Dine in the room which once hosted medieval Lords, sleep where a Tudor Queen once rested her head or just sit and sip something delicious in the place where Nazi leaders once conspired. The Spread Eagle oozes ambience from every crook and cranny, safely guarding centuries of history, an atmospheric and charming place to visit whether it be to sip, dine, stay or if you have time, all three!

Dating back to 1430, The Spread Eagle was built on the foundations of an early medieval building, next to the estates of the local Knights of St John. Following the growth of a new merchant class during the Tudor period, after 1650, as the need for travel accommodation increased, the inn underwent extensive improvements. Eventually The Spread Eagle became an important stage coach inn on the route between the docks at Portsmouth and London.

Over the centuries further renovations have been completed each being careful to preserve the hotel's delightful historical character. You can dine today right next to this tremendous inglenook fireplace!

The Christmas puddings dangling above the fireplace hang there all year ready for guests to enjoy for their annual Christmas lunch!

Cowdray House

The story of The Spread Eagle has close connections to the nearby ruins of Cowdray House, constructed by Sir David Owen, the illegitimate son of the Tudor dynasty’s founder Owen Tudor. Sir David inherited the estate through marriage into the de Bohun family and his role in placing Henry Tudor on the English throne meant that Cowdray became an estate of immense importance. Cowdray attracted many distinguished guests some of whom stayed at The Spread Eagle Hotel.

Guests at The Spread Eagle

Other famous guests to the hotel include Queen Elizabeth I, you can still stay in the room where she slept! Also Admiral Horatio Nelson with his mistress Emma and later, Prince Charles, H.G. Wells  the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and my grandparents in the 1950's!

The link to the  'Spread Eagle' and the inn

The ‘Spread Eagle’ was a powerful symbol in European history. During the Middle Ages the German dominated Holy Roman Empire adopted it as its emblem which is maybe why the Knights of St John came to Midhust.

In July 1939, Hitler's Ambassador to England, Joachim Von Ribbentrop dined at The Spread Eagle with Hermann Goering and four other officers after attending the Goodwood Races. Before coming to The Spread Eagle, Goering had been visiting Leonardslee near Horsham, then the home of Lady Loder, and it is believed that he had selected this beautiful property to be his H.Q. after the invasion of England.

Here is Von Ribbentrop signature in the The Spread Eagle's guest book.

During the World War II American GI’s based at Cowdray House often came to The Spread Eagle. It is rumored that when they returned to Midhurst after the war they bought with them this Eagle taken from Hermann Goering’s office in the Reichstag, Berlin.

They donated it to the hotel to thank them for all the happy times spent there during World War II.

The Spread Eagle today

The Spread Eagle  Midhurst is now privately owned, one of three in a group of historic Sussex hotels, each one having their own fascinating story to tell.

Do stop off at The Spread Eagle should you be visiting this pretty corner of southern England, even if it's just for a drink, although I would suggest you find the time to spend longer!!

 The Spread Eagle Hotel, South Street, Midhurst, Gu29 9NH +44 (0)1730 816911

Click here to read more about other places to visit about an hour from London

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Chelsea, London, SW1, one of the most exclusive and of course expensive addresses in London, if not Britain. Close to the River Thames, Chelsea boasts streets of grand mansions and delightful mews properties and some of the capital's most high end luxury shops, with world class museums, theatres and parks all nearby. Chelsea is home to amongst other things, The Chelsea Barracks, The Chelsea Flower Show, The Royal Hopsital and The Chelsea Foot Ball Club based at Stamford Bridge in neighbouring Fulham.

As a Brit living in California I was interested to learn that Chelsea is home to one of the largest communities of Americans living outside the United States,not a bad place to be an expat in!

Just off of Chelsea's Sloane Square is The Sloane Club where I was fortunate enough to stay and be suitably pampered and indulged all thanks to the generosity of a dear friend, lucky me!

Strolling Chelsea's streets it was impossible to not be impressed by the varied and beautiful architecture. From the red brick of Lower Sloane Street to these, quite different in style

and these, where one almost expected to meet an Elizabeth or Jane Bennet!

Royal Hospital Chelsea ~ home to Chelsea Pensioners

The Royal Hospital Chelsea is the home of the iconic Chelsea Pensioners, retired soldiers of the British Army. The hospital was founded in 1681 by King Charles II to provide care for old and injured soldiers. Charles II commissioned Sir Christopher Wren for its design and construction and a site next to the River Thames was chosen in the countryside of Chelsea. Work was completed in 1692 and the first Chelsea Pensioners were admitted in February 1692. By the end of March 476 men were in residence and the home was full.

A Grade I and II listed site, it remains today as a beautiful architectural legacy left to the nation by Charles II and Christopher Wren, offering care and comradeship for any former soldier of the British Army over the age of 65, who is alone.

Today the Royal Hospital Chelsea is home to over 300 army veterans who have served in World War II, Cyprus, Korea, the Falkland Islands and Northern Ireland.

Bram Stoker's Home

Who would have known that the creator of this dark character of fiction, Count Dracula, once resided in Chelsea? Abraham, 'Bram' Stoker (8 November 1847 – 20 April 1912), an Irish novelist, wrote his Gothic novel Dracula in 1897 from 18 St Leonard's Terrace, his home in Chelsea, SW3. St Leonard's Terrace was also once the home of Sir Laurence Olivier and is listed as one of 200 most expensive addresses in Britain.

Shopping in Chelsea

The Kings Road is Chelsea's most famous shopping streets. On a Saturday a lively market was in full force, an upscale market of course but then we were in Chelsea......

These converted mews properties were close by

and this is where we had dinner. It felt just like being in Europe. Should that be a surprise, for despite the nightmare of Brexit, England is still in Europe, I think!

Thank you again to my friend for such a special treat.

Check out more places to visit in fabulous London here. Still my favourite city in the world but then I am perhaps a tad biased!

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If, like me, you enjoy becoming immersed in classic period dramas such as 'The Crown', 'Downtown Abbey' or 'Poldark', which, biased as I am, the Brits excel in producing, have you ever wondered where they are filmed? It is rarely possible to use iconic locations, such as London's Westminster Abbey or Buckingham Palace, so not surprisingly, in the highly acclaimed epic about Queen Victoria, VICTORIA, the scenes which take place in Buckingham Palace were actually shot several hundred miles from London in Harewood House, West Yorkshire. Designed by architects John Carr and Robert Adam, Harewood House was built between 1759 and 1771 for wealthy plantation owner Edwin Lascelles, 1st Baron of Harewood and remains one of England's most stunning 18th century country homes.

The young Princess Victoria actually visited Harewood House, in 1935, with her mother, The Duchess of Kent, to enable her to become acquainted with her future subjects.

The house is also currently hosting an exhibition of the costumes created for the production. This dress, worn by Jenna Coleman, who so brilliantly plays Queen Victoria, was used in the title scene for each episode of the series.

The dresses below were worn by Anna Wilson-Jones, playing Lady Portman & Margaret Clunie portraying the Duchess of Sutherland. Ironically both women had connections to Harewood House. Lady Portman was the daughter of the 2nd Earl of Harewood and first met Princess Victoria when she visited Harewood House in 1935, she became a Lady in Waiting in 1937. The Duchess of Sutherland, daughter of the 6th Earl of Carlisle, was a sister-in-law to the 2nd Earl of Harewood' son, William Sebright Lascelles, she became Mistress of the Robes for Queen Victoria.

The bed in this lavish stateroom, reserved solely for visiting royalty and heads of state, is the most expensive piece of Chippendale furniture ever commissioned. It was only ever used twice, once by the Grand Duke Nicholas in 1816 and then by Princess Victoria in 1835. Henrietta ( 2nd Countess of Harewood) wrote to her sister describing the fitting of the green silk bed for Princess Victoria's visit:

"The company are to come at three and shown in the yellow and white rooms: Lord Harwood and I await them in the Salon and take the Duchess and Princess there, then comes the tug of war with so many ladies to be presented."

Later in the Victorian period the room was converted to the Countess' sitting room as it is perfectly positioned to be able to admire the Terrace.

This dress was worn by Victoria when she meets Albert for the first time in Buckingham Palace in the dining room, Episode 2: Ladies in Waiting.

The Gallery, where many of the costumes are on display, was built to hold grand banquets and balls and it was in here that Princess Victoria was entertained in 1835.

The Gallery was used in VICTORIA for the dining room scene set at Buckingham Palace. Harewood's state dining room table was repositioned here and ornately dressed as befitting a royal occasion!

This printed, silk and fine wool gauze dress was worn when Queen Victoria proposed to Albert in Episode 4: The Clockwork Prince.

The coronation robes, made of gold damask, were based on the original designs worn by Queen Victoria. Embroidered with gold thistles, roses and shamrocks representing the United Kingdom they were edged with heavy gold fringing.

The dining room at Harewood House was designed by Sir Charles Barry who built the Houses of Parliament. Barry raised the original ceiling to make it more spacious, created new service passages to the kitchens and added full length panels to better display the family portraits. The walnut dining table replaced the four original tables and could seat thirty two. Much of the original Chippendale furniture remains including the two urn topped pedestals and wine cooler.

The music room was used in VICTORIA when Victoria & Albert played Schubert together.

The Terrace was also built by Sir Charles Barry in the 1840's and is one of the most distinguished Victorian gardens designed in the classical Italianate style. The terrace and rear of the property features many times in VICTORIA  as the rear of Buckingham Palace.

The impact of death duties and rising labour costs after World War II saw the Terrace and gardens at Harewood House fall into decline. However it was restored in the 1990's once the Harewood House Trust had been created receiving financial assistance from English Heritage and the E.U.

In the UK, ITV is currently airing the second series of VICTORIA on Sundays at 9pm and it will be shown in USA on PBS early in 2018. Do visit Harewood House if you are in the north of England, the VICTORIA Exhibition is on until October 29th 2017 and for lovers of fashion should not be missed!

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"Oh, to be in England now that April's there,"
Robert Browning's words could not have rung more true for me this springtime in England.
Simply put it's pretty, breathtakingly pretty,
especially in the spring.

Springtime in England ~ rolling fields dotted with sheep tending their newly born lambs,

and endless stretches of bright yellow rape melting into the horizon.

 Gathering primroses on a woodland walk.

Springtime in England ~ where the trees are laden with blossom.

and everyone's delighted to be eating outside again,
there's nowhere nicer than an English country pub.

Wandering through beautiful gardens

and garden centers.

Springtime in England ~ at picturesque villages like Turville,
this one especially beloved by movie makers.
(This is the windmill from 'Chitty, Chitty, Bang, Bang')

With their cottages,

and
ancient country churches

Springtime in England ~ by the River Thames,

meandering along the towpath, bursting with spring growth.

Springtime in England ~ just warm enough for a game of that very English past time, lawn bowls.

Springtime in England ~ lucky me that I was there to enjoy it,

Where were you this springtime?

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