Imagine staying in a glorious 19th century Provencal country estate surrounded by mighty cedars, olive trees and resplendent vineyards framed by the rolling Luberon hills of the Durance Valley. Transformed in 2013 by architect Alexandre Lafourcade, Domaine de Fontenille is now a luxury spa hotel and exceptional wine domaine, with nineteen beautifully appointed bedrooms, two restaurants and a spa. The original architecture has been carefully restored subtly blending the old and new to create this delightful haven.

Location

Situated on the outskirts of the Luberon village of Lauris, Domaine de Fontenille is 5 minutes from Lourmarin, 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence, 45 minutes from Avignon and Marseille Airport, 50 minutes from Marseille and just over an hour from the coastal destinations of Cassis and Bandol. If you're visiting the region a stay in Fontenille would be the perfect place to explore the serenity and beauty of the Luberon.

History

The original bastide dates from 1638 and belonged to the Savornin family. In 1850 Alphonse de Savornin built the gorgeous Provencal country property we see today. His granddaughter Amélie, later developed the park like grounds. In 2014 the current owners restored and developed it to its present glory.

The 17th century vaulted cellar has become the reception hall and the old wine cellars a Center for Contemporary Art. The ground floor reception rooms opening onto the terrace have been tastefully refurbished and overlook the stunning gardens.

Wine at Domaine de Fontenille

Under the guidance of oenologist and agricultural engineer Laurence Berlemont, an expert in Provence wines, the estate has now been fully restored to the 35 hectares it was in 1748. Since 2018 the production has been totally organic.

Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille

Sample the domaine's cuvées; Amélie, Fontenille and Alphonse in white, rosé and red at the tasting rooms; Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille (across the road from the hotel). Open every day all year: 10.00 -13.00 & 14.00 -19.00, no reservations required.

La Boutique du Lourmarin

From April 1 to September 30 tasting is also available in Lourmarin on Place de la Fontaine, 2 rue du Grand Pré: Open every day : 10.00 - 13.00 & 14.00-18.00

At any time of year Fontenille's terrace is the perfect setting to enjoy one of the domaine's vintages, surrounded by the ambience of this special place.

Restaurants at Domaine de Fontenille

Fontenille has two restaurants overseen by Chef Benjamin Pâtissier. Both profile locally sourced products about 80% from the hotel's own garden.

Le Champ des Lunes

Le Champ des Lunes is a Michelin-starred gourmet treat. Open all year, (From February to the end of May closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday all day). Set Menu from 58 euros. Click here for full details and reservations

La Cuisine d'Amélie

From the terrace overlooking the beautiful grounds or in the south reception rooms, La Cuisine d'Amélie offers a delicious and creative choice of small plates. Breakfast is also served here. Open all year, (February to the end of May closed Wednesday and Thursday all day). Prices between 14-20 euros. Click here for menus and reservations

Summer musical evenings

Throughout the summer the hotel hosts wonderful musical evenings set within its breathtaking grounds

Enjoy a casual BBQ supper on the terrace or come just for the music. We loved it, the food was delicious and the performances were excellent, we're looking forward to returning this year.

The Spa at Fontenille

In addition to the fitness room and 20 meter heated outdoor swimming pool Fontenille also has a spa. Combining the natural beauty of the hotel’s tranquil setting the spa offers bespoke treatments to meet client’s specific needs.

Spa Senses Day I'm excited to try one of Fontenille's special Senses Days ~ a 50 minute treatment with lunch at either La Cuisine d'Amélie, or Le Champ des Lunes restaurant and complimentary use of the hotel pool all day. A perfect indulgence to pamper oneself. Price: 155 Euros Click here for Reservations and Spa Menu

For more information about Domaine de Fontenille visit their website

Domaine de Fontenille Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris

+33 (0)4 13 98 00 00

info@domainedefontenille

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

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When Philippe Franc, the owner of La Maison FRANC first came to live in Pertuis, near Lourmarin, his neighbor welcomed him with a gift, a lavender wand or Coeur de Lavande.

It was a defining moment and the first step in a story which led to the opening of his exquisite shop in Lourmain, La Maison FRANC.

Having travelled the world as a Merchant Marine engineer, Philippe has extensive experience of different cultures and traditions and they've made a significant impression ~"People, places, tastes and smells are the things we remember." 

Philippe was touched by his neighbor's gift particularly as it was one of perfume, knowing that people everywhere understand the language of the scent. "It brings peace to offer someone a gift of welcome, it makes you feel a little better about your day.”

Coming from a family of artists, whose grandmother in the 1920’s worked for Haviland porcelain in Limoges, Philippe told me “I believe art and design have a great impact on humanity. I love to combine poetry with purpose." And so Philippe became involved in the art of creating the Coeur de Lavande.

Lavender in the Luberon, Provence

Lavender bushes have fanned their purple fronds along the arid ridges of Provence for centuries. The lavender wand's birthplace is in nature. Where the lavender grows, the elevation and orientation of the land, the purity and humidity of air and the nature of the soil defines its quality.

Philippe's lavender is farmed in the breathtaking Luberon hills above Apt about 35 minutes from Lourmarin. Philippe grows fine lavender and like other lavender associated businesses, a hybrid, lavendine. Grown at lower altitudes than lavender, around 500-700m, surrounded by trees and fields it is nurtured without pesticides.

Lavendine is a stronger plant than lavender with longer stems, each with two small branches. It produces more oil than lavender and also camphor, well know for its soothing massage properties. 40kg of flowers are need to provide one litre of essential lavendine oil.

La Maison FRANC’s farmers tend and harvest their lavendine with great expertise as if they're cultivating grapes for champagne or fine wine. Blooming at the end of June and harvested mid July to August, they ensure the lavender is not overexposed to the sun, cutting it when the stems are fresh and the seeds are full of their essential oil.

Making the Coeur de Lavande

To make the Coeur de Lavande it is important to get the best stems and when cutting to leave the seeds on the stem to optimize the fragrance.

Philippe showed me the basics of the wands' construction. It can take up to two months to properly learn the technique and perfect Philippe's exemplary standards.

Committed to quality and excellence La Maison FRANC only uses the finest of ribbons predominantly from the best producers in St. Etienne, France.

La Maison FRANC offers two shapes, as a standard, the wand and the boule both in a variety of sizes, priced according to the luxury of the ribbon. Click here for design details.

The story of Lavender

People have been using lavender medicinally for centuries. Both the Greeks and the Romans recognized its' healing properties and the Bible refers to it as 'spikenard' used to wash the feet of Jesus. Lavender began to be used medicinally in France in the 11th century, initially in Montpellier, 160km from Lourmarin. In England in the 16th century Queen Elizabeth I insisted on fresh lavender throughout her residences and in the 17th century it was used as a remedy for the Great Plague in London. During the Victorian era lavender became extremely popular both in gardens and perfumed products.

The story lavender as a perfume, often called the ‘blue gold’ by perfume manufacturers. really begins in Grasse, 200km from Lourmarin, in the Provencal hills above The French Riviera. In the 12th century, rather than perfume, Grasse was renown for it’s leather-tanning industry, especially its leather gloves coveted among the nobility of Europe. Soaked in urine to soften the leather the gloves smelt unpleasant until a local tanner created a leather scent of rose water and spices. When a pair of scented gloves were presented to Catherine de Medici she was enchanted and the rare scents from around Grasse, myrtle, jasmine, rose, orange blossom wild mimosa and of course lavender began to be captured and bottled. And so Grasse became established as the perfume capital of the world.

Future Dreams

Philippe currently has two workshops. Firmly believing in the essence of peace these perfumed gifts can bring he would love to open workshops in Israel to have Palestinian and Israeli women working alongside each other and one in Tasmania with Aborigines and Australians working together.

Involved in this business for over 13 years, Philippe is hoping to create similar products with amber and rose and is going to Oman to harvest frankincense to apply the same principals he’s used with lavender.

Already selling to numerous exclusive hotels and brands throughout the world Philippe opened La Maison FRANC in Lourmarin this summer. He is partnering with a jewelry shop in St Johns Wood, London and was leaving for Dubai as we spoke.

What could be more special than a present made of natural products which when squeezed releases the evocative fragrance of Provence?

The best lavender interwoven with beautiful ribbon distinguishes this exceptional gift, its beautiful scent expressing welcome, friendship & love. No wonder they are so often used for celebrations of both.

La Maison FRANC ships all over the world. There's still time to buy one of their lovely lavender boules to hang on your Christmas tree, they're so pretty and fragrant you should keep them out all year.

Visit Philippe's shop should you come to Lourmarin, he'll tell you his story far better than I!

La Maison FRANC  17-7 Rue Henri de Savornin, 84160 Lourmarin, France

www.franc1884.com

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Many people dream of owning a winery; a romantic illusion of strolling through carefully tended vines sharing your vintages within the shadows of a sprawling château, which for me would have to be in Provence. Of course dreams like this seldom come true, such a highly competitive, risky venture would require a fairly hefty dose of courage not to mention immense commitment and hard toil. A ‘little bit’ of money would help and a great deal of skill and knowledge. But it surely begins with a dream, a passion to follow your heart, along with a resolute but gentle sprinkling of determination to do so.

The Bagnis family

This is the story of the Bagnis family from Marseille; Daniel a pharmacist, his lovely wife Anne-Marie, whose family for three generations have been involved in the distribution of exotic fruits and their daughters Mathilde and Camille. The Bagnis had such a dream, a dream to own a wine domain in Provence. Minutes from Lourmarin, I was fortunate to get to know a little of their story and how they have dedicated themselves to making their dream come true.

The family's initial step was for Anne-Marie to complete three years of study at Lycee Agricole de Gardanne learning about viticulture and the marketing and exporting of wine. With Camille having also finished her business and master’s degrees the family began their search for the right property. Having first considered the Eastern Appellation in the Var they realised that they preferred the more traditional charms of the Luberon.

Looking for about 15-20 hectares, as Anne Marie told me “not too small to be limited but not too large to become complicated”, it also had to have a beautiful ‘house’, one that exuded charm and character. Having visited about ten properties they came to the stunning 18th century Le Château Constantin about a kilometer from Lourmarin.

Le Château Constantin

A glorious 18th château surrounded by olive groves and oak forests nestled by the river L’Aigue Brun whose century old deposits of limestone had created a terroir similar to that at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, about 80km to the north-west. Believed to be a former Roman site where Emperor Constantin took the natural waters, the 3 fountains on the property bare testament to this legacy, one of them being the symbol of Le Château Constantin wines.

It is not hard to understand what captivated the Bagnis family and in 2016 it became theirs, the dream was coming true and the work began.

Originally a farm, Le Château Constantin had been producing wine for about 40 years. The Bagnis' purchased it from William Chase, a distiller from England. However it had been its previous owner, Allen Chevalier, who had been responsible for establishing both the name and reputation of Le Château Constantin, and who from 1990 -2011 had produced some of the most esteemed vintages in the AOC Luberon.

The terroir

Embarking on this exciting but enormous venture, the Bagnis asked Chevalier’s vintner to return to work for them. The production under Chase has been about 90% rose but believing the limestone carpeted terroir could produce excellent red and white wines they took the focus in a different direction.

That was two years ago, today 60% of the estate is Syrah and Grenache for red wine and unusually for the Luberon, Cabernet Sauvignon. 20% is planted with Vermentino and Viognier for white wine and also not typical in this region, Chardonnay. Mature Mourvèdre vines have also been planted which will yield its first crop within 3 years. From the Mourvèdre the Bagnis hope to produce a sophisticated, complex red wine suitable for laying down for 10 -15 years.

Currently, by fermenting the grapes in both new and old oak barrels for about 12 months, the château is yielding more fruity wines best consumed within 3 years. Some of their wine is also fermented in concrete and very unusually in terra cotta barrels bought by Chase for his rosé production.

Used in Greece and Italy for centuries the fermenting process in the terra cotta barrels is more complicated as the terra cotta is very porous and changes the complexity of the wine. But as I will explain it produces a wine with excellent minerals much quicker than wood or metal barrels. In the terra cotta white wine can ferment within as little as 4 months.

The wines of Le Château Constantin

Cuvée Tradition AOP Luberon

White wine ~ A subtle suggestion of exotic fruits and citrus. Vermentino and Viognier grapes, pairs beautifully with bouillabaisse or grilled sea bass.

Red wine ~ A deep red coloured, expressive wine with notes of blackberry, cherry and cranberry embellished by sweet spices. 10% Syrah and 90% Grenache grapes, excellent with red meat and spicy food.

Rosé wine ~ A fresh and delicate pale rosé with aromas of strawberry, gooseberry and a subtle suggestion of lemon. Syrah, Grenache and Vermentino grapes, delicious with poultry, lightly spiced curries and citrus deserts.

Cuvée Premium AOP Luberon Rosé

An elegant fresh rosé with notes of nectarine, apricot and strawberry and touches of citrus. Similar to the Cuvée Tradition Rosé it is a perfect accompaniment for lightly spiced dishes and desserts. Cuvée Tradition White will be available in May 2018.

Amphore by Constantin – PGI Mediterranee White

Aged in the terra cotta barrels, (which in French translates as amphoras, hence cuvée amphore), this pale gold, rounded wine has notes of white peach and pear with slight floral and mineral touches. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Viognier grapes, Amphore pairs beautifully with sashimi, richer meat dishes and local goat's cheese.

Committed to becoming organic

Already using organic/bio methods with fewer sulfites, by next year all the château's wines will be labeled bio. It takes 3 years of bio production to be able to say that you are a bio producer.

The market

The Bagnis’ goal is to produce a high quality mid priced boutique wine. In my humble opinion they have already more than exceeded that goal! Currently they are selling directly at the domain itself, at local Lourmarin restaurants No 9, Le Moulin, Auberge La Fenière, in Lourmarin’s 'Cave du Château' and theepicerie 'Super Taf 2' and also in restaurants and small boutique shops in Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.

The château

Part of the dream was to also own a beautiful château. One that would be a home but one that could also be rented for large family gatherings and Weddings.

The main part of the château is already available with 2 kitchens, 2 elegant living rooms, a dining room, a large shaded patio and stunning pool, 4 stylish en-suite bedrooms and a further 3 en-suites currently being restored. Set amongst the vines of a working domaine this is a stunning setting for any family get together. During such times the Bagnis' would live in the newly converted pied-a-terre above the tastefully restored tasting room.

If you are interested contact the Bagnis here.

Weddings at the château

Their first Wedding will be this July, the ceremony in the grounds and the reception by the pool. In such an enchanted setting it cannot fail to be anything other than romantically breathtaking!

The next phase of this project will be the conversion of their very grand Pigeonnier into a summer kitchen.

Not only did I have the pleasure of meeting Daniel and Anne Marie but also their delightful daughter Camille. Sadly I did not have the opportunity to meet Mathilde, a nurse in Marseille who comes often to the château to help out. Camille, like her mother is both charming and already impressively knowledgeable and I am sure invaluable to the realisation of this exciting family venture.

Standing with Camille admiring chateau’s sprawling vineyards and watching her father laboring with his team I can only imagine the effort but also the wonder and joy of being part of such an incredible undertaking.

I wish them every success and look forward to getting to know them better, to get to drink more of their delicious wine and watch their story unfold.

Château Constantin D139 Route du Jas de Puyvert 84160 LOURMARIN

Tel. : +33(0)4 90 68 38 99  chateau.constantin@gmail.com

www.chateau-constantin.fr

Directions

Château Constantin can be found on the  D139 just outside Lourmarin. From the village take the D27 towards Lauris. After you have passed the view of the village on your right take the fork on the left, the D139.Château Constantin is on the left with parking on the right opposite.

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Some of most 'beautiful villages of France' plus beaux villages de France' are found in the Vaucluse region of Provence. Of the seven Vaucluse villages classified as 'plus beaux villages de France', five are in the Luberon Valley; Lourmarin and four villages perchés (hilltop villages); Ansouis, Menerbes, Gordes and Roussillon. Mostly dating from the Middle Ages and usually clustered around a château they are perched high above the region's sweeping vineyards and orchards they define this breathtaking region. Golden stone walls weathered by time, tall, shaded, narrow streets, occasionally splashed with sunlight as the sun momentarily casts its rays to peep around the corners as the day unfolds. Radiating their own unique charm and all within a few miles of one another, one cannot be failed to be captivated.

Ansouis

Ansouis is the first of the 'beautiful villages of France' we are going to visit. A meandering collection of winding, cobbled streets and brightly coloured shutters. Lying in the southern Luberon, it is just 15 minutes (6.5 miles) from Lourmarin, tiny but captivating!! Don't miss a peek into its incredibly well preserved chateau which dates back to 961 to admire its incredible collection of 17th and 18th century furniture and tapestries and the neighbouring pretty little church St Martin.

Ansouis has an excellent restaurant La Closerie (Boulevard des Platanes, 84240 Ansouis Tel: +33 (0)4 90 09 90 54 ) charming and elegant with delicious food but make you sure you book!

There is also a slightly bizarre little museum, Musée Extraordinaire set in a recreated underwater grotto housing the collection of one man's diving finds, it is open most afternoons!

Ménerbes

You will find the delightful, fortified village of Ménerbes on the other side of the valley from Lourmarin (14 miles away) just beyond Bonnieux. Ménerbes has been home to many artists and writers. Picasso lived within its enfold and Peter Mayle wrote his best seller ‘A Year in Provence' here.

Ménerbes has several beautiful renaissance properties and in the town hall square, Place de l’Horloge, you'll find a 17th century belfry and the lovingly restored ‘Maison de la truffe et du vin‘ where you can sample local truffles and wines. There are several places to eat. Market day is Thursday and there is a really good lavishly stocked épicerie open most days!

You can sample wonderful local Luberon vintages at the nearby domains. The wonderful Domaine de Marie and on your way on to Gordes, Domaine de la Citadelle, home to the Corkscrew museum, a fascinating, collection of over 1,000 corkscrews showcasing the history of the corkscrew.

Gordes

Gordes, is our next 'beautiful villages of France' and is another 7 miles further, on the opposite side of the valley floor. Following the olive tree flanked hairpins, the road will begin to straighten and as you turn one of the last corners you will suddenly be greeted by a breathtakingly spectacular view. It almost looks as if someone has collected a cluster of stone buildings, grabbed them in their hand and scattered them to tumble dramatically down the  hillside....

A peek along the streets through Gordes' honey stone buildings. The ancient doorways and carefully restored stone-faced buildings preserve the stories of centuries of history.

L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

On your way to the next of the 'beautiful villages of France' Roussillon, don't miss L' Abbaye Notre-Dame Sénanque, a Cistercian Monastery nestled at the foot of the hills below Gordes. It looks at its most splendid when the surrounding lavender fields are in full bloom, around late June each year.

At this time of year, in early spring. the lavender fields look more like rows of fat little hedgehogs, you'll pass many of them on your approach to Roussillon.

Roussillon

Roussillon, the fifth of our 'beautiful villages of France', is famous for its vibrant blood orange colours ~ the natural pigment of the surrounding rock, the rich, vibrant ochre.

The Roussillon ochre bathed in late afternoon sunlight

Driving back towards Lourmarin, you'll be spoiled by the incredible views before winding your way back through Bonnieux and down to the southern side of the Valley where Lourmarin will lay waiting for you.

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When ever I am feeling far away, yearning to be back in the Luberon in Provence, one of my solutions is to re watch, yes for the hundredth time, 'A Good Year.' Filmed at Château La Canorgue, minutes from Lourmarin, it perfectly encapsulates this stunning region; the alluring natural light, the breathtaking 'campagne', the picturesque perched villages and most of all its entrancing way of life. Comedy, romance, beauty, maybe not oscar winning, but heart warming and delightful, transporting you to this special corner of Provence. Come with me on a tour of its locations and I think you’ll see what I mean

Château La Canorgue

'A Good Year,' was written by Peter Mayle (who lives in Lourmarin) and the movie was directed by Ridley Scott. Château La Canorgue, (Château Siroque in the film), an organic winery, tucked within the shadows of the lovely hill top village of Bonnieux.

Château La Canorgue, is a magnificent property, sadly you can’t go inside but just as in the film, it looks warm and inviting, gently 'aged to a soft patina'. Staring up at it next to the vines you can almost hear Monsieur Duflot humming to himself behind you and Uncle Henry, muttering to the young Max about his next chess move.
It is possible to sample the wine, a major feature of the film, not surprisingly its Coin Perdu (very significant in the film) being one of its best! The winery is open Monday to Friday 9.00am ~7.00pm Saturday 9.00 am~12.00 & 2.00~7.00pm.

Of course, I love to drink good wine, so was excited to read this article extolling the health benefits of doing so, an article I just had to share, thanks Jen Reviews!

Dining near Bonnieux

There are great dining choices in Bonnieux, near Château La Canorgue, My favourite is 'La Bergerie' part of chef, Edouard Loubet's, sensational Relais and Château hotel, Domaine de Capelongue, enjoy the gardens & spectacular views of the Luberon. For a truly gastronomic experience dine at the main restaurant. Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78  Booking essential for either.

Gordes

A few miles further at the impressive perched village of Gordes you can circle the war memorial as did the star of the film, Max, (Russell Crowe), in his 'little yellow car'.

You can eat at Hôtel le Renaissance, Fanny's Café in the story (Fanny, played by Marion Cotillard)
1 Place du Château, 84420 Gordes   +33 4 90 72 02 02

The Luberon

Driving back across the valley, on the meandering roads by Bonnieux and Lacoste is where Max topples Fanny from her bike.

Near Ménerbes you can stop by the road sign for the 'D3' which so confused the irate Max and you will pass the tree lined avenues where he yells at the unsuspecting bikers!

Cucuron

On the other side of Lourmarin, Cucuron is where Max and Fanny have their first date, watching a black and white movie in the square by the basin under the plane trees.

You could also dine here, a bit of a splurge but worth it: La Petite Maison de Cucuron, Place de l’Étang, 84160 Cucuron +33 (0) 4 90 68 21 99

I love this film not just because it is set against the stunning backdrop of the Luberon but also for the profound part its story. It’s a story about someone 'finding' themselves, coming to understand what is really important, realizing that ‘This place’ which ''doesn't fit into their life' is not the issue rather that it is ‘their life that does not fit into this place'.

It’s about embracing the soul of somewhere different, a captivating place, where often the only important appointment of the day is lunch, where people stop to smell the lavender, where values are deeply rooted, a place which is intoxicating.

I am of course hopelessly sentimental, few of us can just abandon our lives to move to Provence; and Max was hardly giving it all up; inheriting a stunning château, a thriving boutique vineyard and in love with a 'French Goddess'; this, after all is a Hollywood movie!
Yet those words are imprinted in my heart '....it is your life that does not fit into this place'
Ask yourself are you really living the life you want, in the place you want to be?
And if not what could you do to make your life more authentic more special. It’s something to think about…………..

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

Driving 'The Good Year route' from Lourmarin you could start at Curcuron, take the route back through Lourmarin, on to Bonnieux, then Gordes returning via Ménerbes and Lacoste.

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A twisting road leads you down into a small market square, flanked on every side with restaurants and you are in Fontaine de Vaucluse. With the high surrounding 'mountainous' hills encasing it in, Fontaine de Vaucluse feels as if it has been enfolded into the the end of the narrow valley.

Here the Sorgue River inexplicably takes its source, from the beautiful and mysterious spring feeding it. This spring, one of the world’s largest, is from deep underground – no one has been able to discover how deep, even Jacques Yves Cousteau in the 1950’s could not find its bottom! Once known as the 'closed valley' ~ Vaucluse, it is from this that not only the town derives its name, but also the department of Vaucluse when it was created in 1793.
As you wind your way alongside the stunningly clear, turquoise blue water, on one side are the ruins of a Roman canal. Towering dramatically high above are the ruins of the Bishop of Cavillon's castle.

The crystal rushing water beside you swirls with fresh green bamboo, washed down from the hills, bouncing its way over the natural weirs and waterfalls. A canoeist’s haven and there were several of them out, negotiating the bubbling froth which rapidly becomes the sparkling, vivid emerald Sorgue river dominating Fontaine de Vaucluse. One cannot help but wonder whether the cave  like features in the hills above once provided shelter for the very earliest settler. It would hardly seem out of context or even surprising to see a man clad in animal skins suddenly appear holding a long, hand carved spear. The entire setting lends itself to such imaginings and drama!

We were fascinated to watch the worn, seemingly timeless water mill, wrapped in a mantel of sodden moss as it spluttered and halted and then suddenly sprung to life again. We soon discovered that this mill was a critical component to a 15^th century paper mill, Vallis Clausa, where they are still making paper in the traditional method today.
It is possible to watch this original, early paper making process and learn the incredible, time intensive craftsmanship that was required to manufacture the first paper. It is not surprising that paper was originally such an expensive and much prized commodity. A far cry from purchasing a bundle of 500 sheets today for virtually nothing!

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region, do let me know your recommendations !

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Garlic, onions and pumpkins, plentiful in a late October market in the Saturday market of Apt. A twisting drive through the hills passing carefully tended lavender fields, lying dormant ready for next year’s burst of fragrant blooms. We meandered our way through the autumnal vineyards towards the unique splendor of Roussillon. The soil gradually changed colour, befitting for the time of year, as if a deep orange tablecloth has been spread out ready for an autumn, harvest picnic. The ochre of this land, responsible for this marvel became richer and more dominant the closer you approached Roussillon.

It was easy to see why this is considered one of the most significant ochre deposits in the world. It is as if mother nature has collected an artist’s palette of flamboyant, colours, like the flames of a fire, warm vibrant oranges, deep crimsons, berry reds and golden sunflower yellows and spread them around. A stunningly rich vibrancy, reflected in the village’s architecture everywhere. This tiny town poised dramatically on a dominant burnt cinnamon ridge. The setting formed a spectacular mirage of contrasting colours; canopied under a deep cornflower blue, provencal sky and nestled amongst deep velvet green pines.
For over 150 years, starting in the late eighteenth century, when the demand for rich colours in the textile industry was at its peak, up until the 1930’s, Roussillon’s quarries employed thousands to mine their ochre deposits. Today the area is protected to prevent further degradation.
However the steep quarries and caverns can still be explored and the natural drama of Colorado de Rustrel provides an incredible walk through its deep gorges.
With mining long since forbidden, the area has returned to predominantly tending the land. Cherry and peach orchards and melons, much of this bounty being used for crystallized fruit production in nearby Apt. Vineyards dominate the landscape as they do much of the region and there are a profusion of local wineries to sample. The small village square, full of restaurants and cafes is encased by ancient medieval buildings reflecting the local shades of mother nature.
Roussillon is old; many Neolithic artifacts have been discovered here and also Roman from when the Romans also mined the ochre from these hills.
But what gives this area its colourful vibrancy? Reputedly it derived its golden pigment from the mineral, 'goethite', when several million years ago, Luberon was under the sea  There also exists a legend from the Middle Ages about a young girl Sermonde, married to the Lord of Roussillion, Raymond d’ Avignon. On discovering Sermonde's love affair with a local musician, Raymond cut the musician’s heart out and served it to the unsuspecting Sermonde for dinner. When Sermonde was told, she threw herself from Rousillon’s cliffs and the surrounding terrain has run red since and for eternity!

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Explore the pictoresque 'villages-perchés' of Provence's stunning Luberon Valley.
Starting in Lourmarin, join this video tour of the Luberon perched villages
through this breathtakingly beautiful countryside.
Meander through the vineyards, olive groves and fruit orchards
and discover the charms of these captivating historical villages
(and these are just some of them!);
Bonnieux, Lacoste, Ménerbes, Oppède le Vieux, Gordes and Roussillon 
Visit the Luberon perched villages' medieval châteaux, wonderful wine domaines,
galleries, restaurants and fabulous markets.
Come here because it's special, utterly intoxicating,
you'll be entranced and leave longing to return........

Bonnieux

Lacotse and Ménerbes

Oppède-le-Vieux 

Gordes

L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

Roussillon

The post A video tour of Provence's perched villages of the Luberon appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

As you approach Roussillon, the earth around you changes to a rich, vibrant, blood orange, the colour of flame, immersing you in one of the largest natural ochre deposits in the world, no wonder Roussillon is high on the list for every Luberon tour.

This tiny town is poised dramatically on a dominant burnt cinnamon ridge, canopied under a cornflower blue sky and nestled amongst velvet green pines, a spectacular mirage of contrasting shades. It’s as if nature has collected an artist’s palette of flamboyant colours and splashed them here upon the earth and the architecture throughout the village.

From the late eighteenth century, when the demand for rich, vibrant colours in the textile industry was at its peak, up until the 1930’s, Roussillon’s quarries employed thousands to mine their ochre deposits. Once mining was forbidden, to protect the area’s degradation, the area returned to farming; vineyards, fruit orchards and melons, much of which is used today for crystallized fruit production in nearby Apt.

You can learn about the ochre at the 'Conservatoire des Ocres et des Pigments Appliqués', situated in an old ochre factory.

It is still possible to explore Roussillon’s steep quarries and caverns. The most unforgettable being a walk through the dramatic Colorado de Rustrel, although be prepared to have your shoes and clothes covered in its ruddy dust!

Roussillon is old, many neolithic artifacts have been discovered here and also roman from when the Romans mined the ochre from these hills. Wander its spiraling streets packed with art and pottery galleries.

The small central square is bulging with restaurants and cafes, there are many to choose from, the most upscale being Le Clos de la Glycine Restaurant David, whose dining room literally hangs over the valley below.

At the summit you’ll find the Castrum and panoramic views across the Luberon. Everywhere you will be encased by ancient, medieval buildings reflecting the local shades of mother nature.

But where does gives the area’s golden pigment come from? Reputedly from the mineral, 'goethite', when several million years ago, Luberon was under the sea. There also exists a legend from the Middle Ages about a young girl, Sermonde, married to the Lord of Roussillon, Raymond d’ Avignon. On discovering Sermonde's love affair with a local musician, Raymond cut the musician’s heart out and served it to the unsuspecting Sermonde for dinner. When Sermonde was told, she threw herself from Roussillon’s cliffs and the surrounding terrain has run red since and for eternity!

Believe what you wish, but whatever you do, don’t miss a visit to this stunning little piece of the Luberon.

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Last time on our tour of the Luberon's perched villages we visited Lacoste and Ménerbes, maybe you missed our next two stops? The mystical ghost town, Oppède-le-Vieux and Gordes, perhaps the Luberon's most magnificent perched village. (Click on the village names to view).

From Gordes, the next stop has to be L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, photos of which dominate postcard displays all over Provence; stunning images normally taken in early summer when the abbey is surrounded by a carpet of fragrant lavender blooms.

This mystical Cistercian Abbey was founded in 1148 under the Bishop of Cavillon, an isolated shrine dominating the small valley floor, just a short drive from Gordes.

It is definitely worth stopping at the Abbey, even if you don’t wish to take tour or attend a service

Those that do cannot but help but become immersed in its serenity. The centuries old tranquility of a place dedicated to God. Within the Abbey’s sacred cloisters listen to its fascinating history, amidst the lavender, fragrant pines and olive trees of the Luberon.

Throughout the centuries L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque provided shelter and livelihood for a devout group of men who adhered to its the rigid religious discipline.

At its peak, in the 13th and 14th centuries, L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque owned several local estates, including 4 mills and 7 granges. At the end of the day when those that toiled the land returned to the abbey grounds, voices became hushed, if seldom heard at all.

After the French Revolution the abbey's lands were nationalized and Sénanque was sold to an individual. In 1858 a new Cistercian order returned but only until 1908 when the Abbey doors were closed once more and the abbey bells fell silent. In 1998 a small group of Cistercian monks returned, they have remained there since tending the lavender and bees to earn a living.

L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque is a truly special place, one that you won’t regret taking the time to include during a visit to Provence's beautiful Luberon valley in the Vaucluse.

When you are in the area you should also visit le Village des Bories to learn the story of how these amazing little stone huts, whose origins date back to Roman times, came to be in the Luberon!

Our next stop will be the village of Roussillon, poised dramatically on a dominant burnt ochre ridge, it's another Luberon treasure!

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