Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Artists have always been drawn to Provence, inspired by its' striking beauty and the brilliance of its natural light which so illuminates this stunning part of France. For me, the artist who spectacularly showcases the radiance of the region, is Paul Cézanne. This year, Carrières des Lumières paid tribute to Cézanne. Its title says it all, “Cezanne Le Maître de la Provence”. The performance is an emotional encapsulation of the very essence of Provence and all that I love about it.

Carrières des Lumières: the art spectacle in a quarry

I've been fortunate to visit Carrières des Lumières almost every year since it opened in 2012. If you have not yet experienced its wonder, Carrières des Lumières (literally translated 'Caves of Light') is a musical, art extravaganza where the works of the Masters are splashed across the towering walls of a former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer.

The magic of Carrières des Lumières has now been transported across the globe in its dazzling Van Gogh production, Van Gogh La Nuit étoilée. But it began here, in Provence.

Carrières des Lumières is a short drive from St Rémy-de-Provence through a twisting, boulder strewn hillside between the pine trees where suddenly the magnificent ruins of a medieval château come into view. Hugging precariously to the craggy, limestone escarpment, it’s almost possible to hear the sounds of distant gunfire being fired from the ramparts over the perched village of Les Baux-de-Provence which tumbles down the hill below.

Carrières de Lumières is just a few hairpin turns further. Once inside the quarry's vast, cavernous space, one is immediately entranced. Invisible paintbrushes sweep more than 2000 digital images of artistic genius across the 7000 square meters of the quarry’s walls, floors and ceiling. And this year it is Cézanne’s brush strokes that hold the audience spellbound.

Vassily Kandinsky

The spectacle was accompanied by the work of Vassily Kandinsky (1866-1944).

Known as the founder of abstract art, Kandinsky was greatly influenced by Cézanne.

Born in Moscow, Kandinsky was also a poet and art theorist. In 1900 he settled in Munich studying painting and traveling across Europe with his partner Gabriele Münter. After meeting Cézanne, Monet and Matisse, Kandinsky's neo-impressionist art became replaced with landscapes. Subsequently he became interested in abstract art and his work constantly challenged conventional esthetical norms.

Forced to return to Moscow in 1914, Kandinsky witnessed the Russian revolution finally leaving Russia for good in 1921 with his wife Nina, to join the faculty of the Bauhaus in Weimer, Germany.

In 1933 Kandinsky fled Nazi Germany eventually settling in Neuilly-sur-Seine, west of Paris, where he spent the rest of his life. Here he became influenced by local surrealist painters. His palette of colours softened and small creatures and cellular shapes appeared in his work.

Paul Cézanne

Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence in 1839. His father had grand ambitions for him. Having risen from humble beginnings as a hat maker, he'd become the owner of a bank where he expected his son to join him. He sent Paul to boarding school (1852-1858) where Paul was influenced by the future writer Emile Zola, forming a life-long friendship with him. In 1837 Paul joined the drawing academy in Aix and to the great disappointment of his father he abandoned his law degree and moved to Paris. Spending time with Zola he studied at the Académie Charles Suisse but traveled frequently back to Provence.

Cézanne was a prolific painter creating multiple versions of his work.

He produced numerous still lives, restoring the nobility of what at the time was regarded as a minor genre.

"With an apple I will amaze Paris" he is said to have exclaimed.

In 1866 Cézanne began a series of paintings of his Uncle. He used a technique where he applied thick layers of paint to model the face and modulate the color. It marked a turning point in his career. This unconventional style was rejected by the Salon in Paris who mockingly declared his portraits were painted 'not only with a knife, but rather with a pistol'.

In 1869 Cézanne met his mistress Hortense Fiquet and began working along side his friend, Camille Piassarro. Cézanne refined his technique painting the outdoors, capturing the beauty of forests, gardens, ponds, bathers and outdoor picnics.

Until the end of his life Cézanne painted the bathers in multiple settings, blending the human form into the landscape, concentrating his efforts on the body as a whole using them to structure space.

In 1874 Cézanne participated in his first impressionist exhibition.

In 1883 he met Monet and Renoir but they, like many others in their world failed to recognise his genius. In 1883 Cézanne married Hortense with whom he’d had a son in 1872. In 1888 Cézanne returned from Provence to Paris. In 1895 the art dealer Vollard exhibited 150 of Cézanne 's works including his oil painting the card players. The exhibition was a resounding success.

In 1901 Cézanne established his workshop on Lauves Hill in Aix-en-Provence which overlooked Mt Sainte-Victoire.

From 1902 until he died in 1906, Cézanne painted Mt Sainte-Victoire many times.

Like much of his work he painted it from several viewpoints,

studying the effect of light on his subjects.

Cézanne’s later works were predominantly of his native Provence where he found serenity painting scenes of every-day life, colourful houses, the local people, and landscapes. These landscapes illustrate how he regarded Provence, as the essence of nature.

These pieces offer a glimpse into Cézanne's inner struggles, the independence of his style and his unique relationship with nature.

Today Cézanne is regarded as the pioneer of modernity. His particular use of forms and color set him apart from the impressionists which later influenced later early 20th century avant guarde-artists.

Cézanne continued to exhibit his works until 1906, the year he died.

Paul Cézanne, le Mâitre de Provence.

Visiting Carrières de Lumières

Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2022
Admission: 14.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. Booking online advance is recommended

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières
Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

The post Cézanne, Le Maître de la Provence at Carrières des Lumières appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

It's December and people everywhere are getting ready for Christmas. After weeks of blue skies and gentle warm days it’s raining where I live in California and temperatures have plummeted. The puddles are splattered with the last remnants of autumn and the mornings are frosty with low lying mists hanging over the hills. Pumpkins have been cast aside replaced with Christmas sparkle, draped across roof tops and porches sometimes quite dramatically, beckoning in the Festive season.

And I know, in Lourmarin preparations for Christmas, le Fête Noël  are also underway. I'm not going to be there but can imagine it, the bustle and excitement, the decorating, the cooking, shops bursting with enticement and my little street festooned with twinkling fairy lights.

Christmas markets

In the larger European cities wooden chalets straight from a German Christmas story are now peppered throughout the streets. Each weekend tiny villages play host to Christmas markets, near Lourmarin these Marchés de Noël  are held in local schools, town halls and  wineries. My favorite is in Aix-en-Provence where the Cours Mirabeau will have become lined with festive wooden chalets.

Provence Traditions

Calissons d'Aix

Calissons d'Aix are sweet treets made from an ancestral recipe; a mixture of finely ground almonds, melon de Provence and candied orange peel, on a wafer bed covered with a royal icing setting, délicieux!

Santons

A charming part of Christmas in Provence, Santons are hand-painted terracotta nativity scene figurines. They were first created during the French Revolution by an artisan from Marseilles, Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822). A Provencal crib scene would traditionally have about 55 Santons, depicting different characters from the region.

The 13 deserts of Christmas

 The Provencal 13 desserts of Christmas are an age old custom eaten after Gros Souper, the equivalent of Christmas dinner, thought to have represented Jesus and the 12 apostles.

The 13 deserts normally include a Fougasse (an olive oil flatbread), a Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), a platter of fresh fruit, a fig stuffed with walnuts, dates and white nougat. Not all are home made and  different regions offer their own variations; but everywhere has the Bûche de Noël!

Shopping in Lourmarin

If I were in Lourmarin here are some of the shops I would be browsing for my Christmas gifts

La Maison FRANC  ~16 Rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin

What could be more special than a handmade gift interwoven with beautiful ribbon exuding the evocative fragrance of Provence, a Lavender wand (Coeur de Lavande) or Lavender boule for your tree ? La Maison Franc has some of the very finest and they ship all over the world.

KOT for linen clothing & gifts  ~ rue de la Juiverie, Lourmarin

Rose de Bagatelle  for clothing & gifts ~ 8 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Mizso for handmade jewelry ~ 1 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Souleo de Provence for pottery ~ 14 rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin. Their Lourmarin shop opened this spring but was previously in the Lourmarin market.  Also available online from USA, albeit for a tad bit more!

A book gift about Provence

If like me you love all things French, treat yourself or your friends to a gift of these wonderful little books, 'One Sip at a Time' & 'Are we French Yet'. Written by fellow franophile Keith-Van-Sickle who lives near me in California, (read my review here) they are full of wit and charm and 'Are we French Yet' is also available in an audio edition. Keith is offering a free copy up until Wednesday 11th December 2019. Click here and you might get lucky!

What are the Festive customs and traditions where you live? Are you expecting a white Christmas? Maybe my fairy tale village will be sprinkled with snow completing the magic of this special time of year.

Happy Christmas wherever you are!

The post Christmas traditions & shopping in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Since opening in 2012 the stunning video art show at Carrières de Lumières has entranced millions. Situated just steps from the medieval perched village of Les Baux-de-Provence each year, the work of the Masters is splashed across the cavernous walls of this former bauxite quarry. This year, 'Van Gogh, La Nuit étoilée' pays tribute to one of the world’s greatest artists, Vincent Van Gogh (1853-1890).

From a selection of about 500 paintings, Carrières de Lumières’ talented artistic directors Gianfranco Iannuzzi, Renato Gatto and Massimiliano Siccardi, showcase Van Gogh's incredible genius. His story is told across the quarry’s 7000 square meters of walls, many of which loom over 15 meters high. Starting from the sun-drenched wheat fields of Arles, to Paris and then back to Provence, from where Van Gogh strove tirelessly to capture the light and colours of this region which so bewitched him.

"Van Gogh is one of the most important painters that ever lived. The exhibition produced for Carrières de Lumières highlights the artist's unique approach. We realised it was important to show the thickness of the paint medium and the impact of colors, and focus on the decisiveness of the brushstrokes and use of line, all of which are so characteristic of Van Gogh's works" Gianfranco Iannuzzi

As in the preceding performances there is an enthralling accompanying exhibit. This year's 'Dreamed Japan Images of the Floating World' profiles art from the land of the rising sun which inspired Van Gogh profoundly.

Vincent Van Gogh's childhood

Born in Groot Zundert in the Netherlands in 1853, Vincent Van Gogh was the eldest of six children. Inspired by his father who as a pastor used imagery to illustrate his sermons, Van Gogh began painting as a young child. Difficult, shy and socially awkward he left school at 16 and went on to work at art galleries in the Hague, Brussels, London and Paris.,

Van Gogh the young artist

During his time in London and Brussels, distressed by the plight of the poor and sick, this troubled young man sought to find his soul in painting. His work from then reflects the sorrow he felt for the disenfranchised.

The Potato Eaters ~ Vincent Van Gogh

In 1880, at the age of 27 Van Gogh enrolled at Academie Royale des Beaux-Arts in Brussels. From here he began to paint in earnest, initially mostly landscapes and then scenes from every day life. After his father's death in 1885 his paintings became more liberated and he began 'to paint what I feel and feel what I paint.' (Vincent Van Gogh)

Van Gogh in Provence 1888 -1889

Wishing to escape hectic city life, in February 1888 Van Gogh moved to Arles, Provence. Initially he lived in a room at Café de la Gare before moving to the La Maison Jaune. Surrounded by the natural light and colours of Provence Van Gogh found the perfect place to develop his talents.

His use of bold colours and powerful brushstrokes demonstrates the dialogue he saw between light and shadows. Expressed dramatically in the multi-coloured petals of one of his most famous pieces, The Sunflowers, les Tournsoles, flowers which are still so synonomous with Provence and which he painted both in full bloom and dying.

'The Sunflowers' ~ a series of three paintings, 1888.

The sunflowers at Carrières de Lumières.

During his time in Arles Van Gogh became fascinated by the local people which he considered to be so different from elsewhere.

Turbulent Housemates by Van Gogh

From Arles he continued to develop his unique treatment of light, depicted most famously in Terrasse de café le soir, Le café de nuit, La Maison Jaune and La Chambre.

La Chambre ~ Vincent Van Gogh

Brilliantly capturing the beauty of Provence within which he'd immersed himself, Van Gogh's work also continued to reflect the intensity of his thinking and his inner torment. The turmoil he saw and then painted in nature perhaps mirrored his own anguish, illustrated in the sublime but ominous atmosphere of the sky in Nuit étoilée sur le Rhône (1888) and La Nuit étoilée (1889).

La Nuit étoilée ~ Vincent Van Gogh

His paintings of the olive and cypress trees (1889) also show this chaos he saw in natural beauty.

After a brief collaboration with Paul Gaugin, who joined him in Arles, Van Gogh's unbalanced mind led him to cut off his own ear.

He was treated locally and again several times afterwards suffering from insomnia and hallucinations. Finally in May 1889 he admitted himself to Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, an asylum for the mentally ill in nearby Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. He stayed there for a year still continuing to paint hoping to find solace in his work.

Van Gogh's paintings of the interior of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum

Van Gogh's irises painted during his stay at the Saint-Rémy asylum

During his time at the asylum Van Gogh also completed a series of self portraits.

His omin0us stare and the use of robust brushstrokes and intense colors mirror his agonized emotional state.

In May 1890, his health still extremely fragile, Van Gogh left Saint-Rémy and moved to Auvers-sur-Oise where he lived over a café. From here he famously painted the local church.

L'église d'Auvers-sur-Oise, vue du chevet by Vincent Van Gogh

Carrières de Lumières' 'La Nuit étoilée' ends with one of Van Gogh's last works 'The Wheat Field with Crows' (1890). Immersed into major landscapes he tried to capture the order of nature painting a threatening sky which contrasted sharply with the gold hues of a wheat field.

Unable to reconcile his increasingly disturbed state of mind on 27 July 1890 Van Gogh tragically shot himself. He died two days later never understanding his own genius or the fame that his incredible work would achieve. His astounding talent in over 2000 works remain on display as part of priceless collections around the world, magnificently portrayed in this year's spectacle at Carrières de Lumières.

If you'd like to learn more about Van Gogh there are countless places you can visit, the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam is a good place to start.

Visiting Carrières de Lumières
Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2020
Admission: 13 Euros, family and other discounts available. Booking online advance is recommended

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières
Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in  Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

The post Carrières de Lumières 2019 Van Gogh, La Nuit étoilée appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

What motivates and inspires someone to leave where they live where everything is safe and familiar and move to another country? Somewhere with a completely different language, culture and way of doing things? What happens if you need medical attention or a plumber, or if your car breaks down, or if you get stopped by the local police, especially when you scarcely speak the language? Why would anyone do this unless they had to? Even if the place is Provence, which although utterly beguiling, still doesn't induce it's very many visitors to actually move there!

Author Keith Van Sickle does a marvelous job of attempting to explain why. His first book, succinctly articulates the key to survival in the title; ‘One Sip at a Time’! Yet while Keith and his wife Val may well have drawn courage sampling the splendid offerings of the local vintners, they have also made valiant efforts to really embrace this other place they call home.

And there is much to understand, the customs, the food, the language, a feat in itself, as Keith explains: 'there are a mind blowing 26 (yes, 26) tenses of French verbs!'

Refusing to be daunted by all those very many declensions, Keith and Val have opened their hearts and minds to the entire way of life in Provence and what they cherish most of all, the people. Perhaps it’s of little surprise that the title of Keith’s second book is the question they’ve so often asked themselves: ‘Are We French Yet?’ You’ll have to read it to decide. Click here to buy

Both of Keith’s books are fun, easy reads, full of charming, witty accounts of the many exploits, discoveries and occasional mystifying challenges he and Val have encountered in Provence. Many of which I can totally relate to.

There’s the issue of kissing when you greet people: 'If you gave three kisses when it should be two, would people think you were rather pushy and forward? If you only gave two kisses instead of three, would you be considered standoffish?'

And the Pharmacies; much tinier than in the US and with different rules where you can’t just help yourself to over-the-counter medications: 'Instead, you have to wait in line to see a pharmacist, and then describe your problem so that… everyone in line can hear what you’re saying.' And if you don’t speak great French the Pharmacist will announce for the entire shop to hear: '“Speak up! You say you have a HORRIBLE LOOKING FUNGUS on your WHAT?” '

Then there’s the all-important thing our 'children' tease about, the wearing of scarves, not by me but my husband, an obligatory accessory whether male or female when living in Provence or as it turns out much to the 'children’s' amusement when you return to California! For as my husband (modeling below) and Keith know 'the French wear scarves year-round. AND they know how to tie them.'

Keith does a great job of articulating why he and Val love Provence. How it makes them feel, its’ alluring pace, its’ natural beauty, its’ people, its’ way of life, its’ fascinating history whose timeless traditions still reach out to touch life today. A myriad of tiny details as abundant as a basket filled with fresh sunflowers picked from the local fields, ones which have also smiled upon us and totally resonate.

We actually have much in common. We both live near San Francisco, we both enjoy food and good wine, we are both curious explorers interested in people. We might originate from different continents but we share a deep-seated passion for Provence which inspired us both to write, not just our blogs which connected us but to write a book. I'm still embarking upon the arduous conventional publication path for my World War II novel set in Provence telling the true story of the Poles who first cracked the Enigma code. With two successful publications to his name Keith is way ahead of me and I’ve enjoyed both of them

I’m in awe of Keith and Val’s impressive efforts to master the French language, somehow succeeding in declining all those tenses and getting their tongues to roll those r’s correctly. It’s inspiring to learn how it’s helped them build close friendships in St Remy-de-Provence, the delightful Provencal town I also love, where they spend the majority of their time.

I'm also impressed how by determinedly reading French literature and studying French newspapers and TV Keith and Val have developed a good grasp on what it is that makes French people French.

I would suggest that the answer to Keith’s latest book's title ‘Are we French yet?’ is ‘mais oui, bien sûr!'

You don’t have to be a Francophile to enjoy Keith’s books; they’re endearing because they’re about living. As Keith explains, just like us, he and Val are constantly asked: 'why do you want to spend so much of the year in Provence, what do you do when you are there, what new things have you visited?'

Whilst there is an abundance of things to still discover, that is not why either of us go there. We’re not tourists seeking to check off the next list of ‘must see’ sights, we go there to live: 'we’re just 2 people living in Provence and the business of living fills our days…..'

And that business of living is not only real but magical. And for us, just like for Keith and Val. 'Magical is the right word. Magic seems to happen to us in France.' 

The post 'Are we French yet?' ~ The magic of living in Provence by Keith Van Sickle appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Nestled among rolling vineyards between the historic city of Aix-en-Provence (14km) and the stunning Luberon Valley (21km) you will find Château La Coste. Purchased by Irish real estate developer Paddy McKillen in 2002, the ordinary has been transformed into the extraordinary. Château La Coste is now a stunning domain set within 600 hectares, dedicated not just to fine wine but art, architecture and well-being.

Come to enjoy the wine, stroll through the extensive grounds, admire the incredible art and be sure to leave time to eat at one of the estate's scrumptious restaurants. Details below, reservations might be required.

The wine at Château La Coste

The Cuverie at Château La Coste, is a revelation bringing fresh life to a centuries old tradition skillfully merging the past with the present. Using state of the art technology, this new generation winery, created by architect Jean Nouvel opened in 2008. Over 10m high and extending 17m below ground it provides a perfect environment for preserving wine.

Accessible only by guided tour: Daily in French from 11am and 3pm, 1pm in English. Fee 12€ - 10€.

The wines

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. In 2008, just one year after their first harvest, they earned the prized organic ‘AB” distinction. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00.

The Art Center of Tadao Ando

Designed by Tadao Ando, a self taught Japanese architect born in 1941, the Art Center at Château La Coste opened in 2011. Dramatic, somewhat austere concrete walls, dotted with small conical punches, lay at an angle to its V-shaped structure composed entirely of imposing bay windows.

Sub divided into two, one area houses the reception area and book store, the other a cutting edge restaurant. Facing the vines it is set next to an infinity pool which cleverly conceals the underground parking below it.

'What I tried to do here, because of Cézanne's presence in Aix, is to create a new work close to nature.' Explained Tadao Ando.' I wanted to capture the same, very humble spirit of Cézanne's paintings.'

The Art and Architecture Walk

The Art and Architecture Walk at Château La Coste is a fascinating two hour stroll next to olive groves and rolling vineyards meandering through the woods beside some stunning pieces of art.

Open March 1st - November 1st Everyday 10 am - 7 pm
November 2 - February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Below are some of the 31 marvels which particularly caught my attention.

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Taking pride of place next to the art center and hovering just above the glistening water is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue, created in 2003 and installed here in 2011. Believing spiders protect us, it was designed in homage to the artist’s mother, its twisted muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the vines surrounding it.

Small Crinkly~Alexander Calder 1976

Created in 1976 by American artist Alexander Calder, famous for his interpretation of mobiles, this is the only piece not specifically made for the domain. At its home at Château La Coste it becomes its most vibrant when swept up by the Mistral, a spectacle to witness!

Wall of light Cubed ~ Sean Scully 

Best known for his paintings, Sean Scully's Wall of Light consists of 1000 tonnes of limestone bought from Portugal.

Pavilion of Music ~Frank O. Gehry 2008 

The pavilion was created as a partnership between world renowned Canadian-American Artist, Frank O. Gehry and the Serpentine Gallery in London where it was first exhibited in 2007. Gehry's famous designs include The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and The Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles.

Psicopompos ~ Tunga 2011

Combining cast iron magnets from China, quartz from Peru and local stone from nearby Rognes, this Brazilian artist's work attempts to portray the link between the spirit and material.

The Chapel ~Tadao Ando 2011

In Tado Ando’s restoration of this 16th century place of worship, the remains of the original structure have been wrapped in glass.

It is situated at the pinnacle of the Art and Architecture Walk offering magnificent unobstructed views of the region.

The Restaurants at Château La Coste

La Terrace

Set under shaded pergolas, where there is often live music, La Terrace is ideal for lunch, especially after a ramble exploring the grounds.

A casual bistro style menu of delicious salads, home-made soups and tarts. Approx. 16€ for a main course.

Tadao Ando Cafe

More formal than La Terrace, this sleek, modern setting within the art center offers both indoor and outdoor dining for lunch and dinner. A la carte menu approx. 70€ for three courses, menu of the day 34€ per person.

Francis Mallmann

Rustic and elegant, decorated in the colors of a Cézanne Studio, offering local flavors with an Argentinian twist by its Argentinan born chef from whom it takes its name. (Featured on Netflix' Chefs Table) A la carte menu approx. 100€ for three courses per person

Le Louison

A truly gourmet experience at this one star Michelin restaurant at the hotel from chef Gérald Passedat. In keeping with the splendor of the estate each course is an artistic masterpiece. Five course set menus from 95€ -165€ per person

 Salon

Describe as "bistronomic" (blending gastronomic and bistro), open daily for lunch and dinner; from 38€  for lunch and from 50€ for dinner.

Villa La Coste ~ the hotel at Château La Coste

Situated on the hillside amongst the vines the hotel at Château La Coste, Villa La Coste, opened in 2017. A luxury haven offering twenty eight villa suites, ten with a private pool, and terraces boasting panoramic views of the Luberon. The contemporary architecture is accentuated by the use of local materials. It has beautiful, extensive gardens, a pool, bar, library and spa.

Even if you don't have time to rest your head at this sumptuous spot be sure to leave time to visit the estate should you be in this beautiful part of Provence.

Plan your special occasion here:

Join one of the chateaus special events, bring a group for an organized day visit, or become part of one of the outdoor movie screenings, art exhibits, art and wine workshops (normally 2.5 hours long 20-25€ per person) and concerts. Click here for the schedule

Click here to plan your visit. I'd love to know what you think and which pieces of art you especially loved!

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Recently someone who only had four days to spend in Provence asked me if I had to choose between a visit to Aix-en-Provence or Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, which would it be. Preferably I’d find the time for both but as stunning a city as Aix is, in June, on a first visit to Provence I think I’d choose Saint-Rémy. A happy little town, so charming and colorful and so typically Provence!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ why it charms!

It’s pretty! Meandering cobbled streets shaded under a canopy of plane trees, packed with cafes, restaurants, galleries and cute boutiques happily mingled together.

Yet steps away from the bustle there are secluded corners where fountains who happily chuckled to others over the years, Nostradamus, (who was actually born here) Van Gogh and Princess Caroline of Monaco, still gurgle contently. So many wonderful reminders of days gone by.

Come on a Wednesday, when a colorful market sprawls along its streets overflowing into its picturesque squares.

Blessed with over 300 days of sunshine this vibrant, historic Provencal town is small enough to sample in half a day. However with so much to discover both within its enfolds and close by, Saint-Rémy is a delightful base for a few days in this region of Provence.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~What to do

A great way to discover the secrets of Saint-Rémy is via one of its self guided audio. There are two available: 'Discover the town' and 'The Van Gogh Walk'. In French and English, lasting from an hour to a full day Price: €3.00, learn more here: Saint-Rémy Audio guide.

Estrine Museum and Van Gogh Interpretation Centre 8 rue estrine 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 34 72. Built in 1749, once a splendid hotel, Estrine is now a museum where The Vincent van Gogh Interpretation Center pays tribute to this incredible artist who lived in Saint-Rémy, May 8, 1889 to May 20, 1890. The museum also hosts a constant stream of exhibitions featuring the work of many other celebrated artists. Visit their website here

Saint-Rémy tourist board website has further information for other museums, chapels and sites.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where to eat

There are so many choices, many of which I have yet to sample, do tell me your discoveries, here are a few of ours:

L’Estagnol 7 Blvd Marceau 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 05 95 Price: €8 ~ €22 Delicious tapas salads and mains, Mediterranean with a fusion twist.

Chez Fanny's Place Mireille Moatti 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 90 89 Newly opened in March 2018 this quaint courtyard spot offers yummy salads and pastas Price: from €16.

Gus 31 Boulevard Victor Hugo 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 90 27 61 Delicious menu especially for seafood loversPrice €13 ~ €30. Open all year every day lunch & dinner. Closed Mondays November~March

L’Aile ou la Cuisse  5 Rue de la commune 13210 Saint Rémy de Provence Tel: 04 32 62 00 25
Price: €13 ~ €37. Wonderful family recipes in a gourmet bistro setting. Known especially for its mouthwatering pastries and deserts. Open every day April 1st to November 15th lunch & dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday from November 16th to March 31st

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ Where to stay

I've never actually stayed in Saint Rémy but there's some wonderful places, both in the town and close by including some really special luxurious gems.

Hotel and Restaurant Tourrel   Hotel Gounod

Hotel Le Vallon de Valrugues & Spa  Hotel Image  Le Château of Alpilles 5 

I'd also check what Alistair Sawday has to recommend. This Sawdays' suggestion caught my eye Appartement d'Anges, two beautiful accommodations for 2-6 people offering personalized tours and gourmet experience.

Le petit Bijou a really special place to rent from Vicki Archer, a wonderful authority on the area!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ What's nearby

Glanum Archeological Site

Route des Baux de Provence D5 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence 04 90 92 23 79 website

Part of Provence's rich Roman heritage,  just one km from Saint-Rémy, the site of Glanum was inhabited from about 500 BC. In the 2nd century BC it became a Greek town and from the 1st to the 3rd centuries, colonized by the Romans it was a resplendent Roman city with great public, civil and religious buildings. Destroyed by barbarian invasions around 260AD the survivors founded a new village that was to become Saint-Rémy. It was virtually forgotten until 1921 when excavations began to reveal its incredible past. Definitely worth a visit!

Open: 1 April to 30 September 9:30am to 6pm  1 October to 31 March (Closed on Monday)10 am to 5 pm with various holiday closures check website for details. Fees: Adults €8, reductions for children, students and groups

Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence is just 10 minutes from Saint-Rémy on route from Glanum. One of Provence’s most atmospheric perched villages, precariously hugging the craggy limestone of the Alpilles hills, with links to the biblical Wise Men and Monaco’s Grimaldi family, it’s a place where time has stood still….Read more about Les Baux here

If time is short visit both Les Baux and Saint-Rémy together, preferably on a Wednesday for Saint-Rémy's delightful market, enjoy lunch in the town. (Sadly Les Baux has disappointing choices). Leave time to include the audio visual art spectacle of Carrières de Lumières next to Les Baux, admission to which can be combined with the entrance to its' château ruins.

Carrières de Lumières

Just an 800m strole from Les Baux de Provence, each year the artistic talent of the maestros is splashed upon the towering walls and floor of this former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer at Les Baux. Set to a mystical, musical background, it is always a spellbinding spectacle. Previous years have included Chagall, Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo, this year the work of Picasso and the Spanish masters 

For more information: Carrières de Lumières  Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel: 04 90 54 37 Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer) 7 days a week from March – January  Admission: €12.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. If time permits buy the combined ticket which includes the excellent audio tour of the château ruins at Les Baux. Check their website for details.

In addition to the local wine domains and olive mills there are also the delightful small towns and villages of Les Alpilles to explore such as Eygalières and Maussane-les-Alpilles. The splendid Roman city of Arles (23km ) is full of archeological treasures, including its original amphitheater and as another home of Van Gogh it has its own Van Gogh museum and sites to further tell his story.

Enjoy your visit to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and let me know what you discover!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where it is

Nestled at the foot of Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Provence.

Marseilles Airport: 70km (60min)      Avignon: 25km (30min)       Arles: 23km (36min)

Aix en Provence: 73km (65mins)      Lourmarin: 52km (55min)

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It's December in Provence, snow has already sprinkled its magic across the villages and as the nights draw in and daylights fades each day, a bitter chill drapes itself like a frozen mantle across the dark golden, sprawling vineyards.

Everywhere Christmas preparations abound as people ready themselves for le Fête Noël and all the traditions of  the season. In the larger cities wooden chalets straight from a German Christmas story pepper the streets and each weekend, scattered throughout the region, the villages play host to Christmas markets, Marchés de Noël 

Marchés de Noël of Aix-en-Provence

From the end of November the Cours Mirabeau, in beautiful Aix-en-Provence, is strung with a line of wooden chalets, each one offering the bounties of Provence for Christmas.

Gifts of Lavender

Lavender of course, is one of the jewels of the Provence terroir. In June vast rows of previously sleeping little hedgehogs (well that's what they look like to me!) are transformed into stunning bushes of wafting fragrance gently scenting the air with their special perfume. By November those delicate blooms have been neatly wrapped and packaged ready to stuff  Christmas stockings!

Calissons d'Aix

Calissons d'Aix, come from the almonds grown all over Provence and most especially around Aix-en-Provence. References to Calissons can be found as far back as the late fifteenth century, they are still produced today from an ancestral recipe; a mixture of finely ground almonds, melon de Provence and candied orange peel, all drawn on a wafer bed covered with a royal icing setting, délicieux!

Santons

Centrally positioned among the gifts of Calissons is a santon. Santons are small, hand-painted terracotta nativity scene figurines produced in Provence. They were originally created by an artisan from Marseilles, Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822) during the French Revolution. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene would be made up of 55 Santons depicting the different characters of a Provencal village, the scissors grinder, the fishwife, the blind man, and the chestnut seller. It is not certain how many such artisans still exist today but the Santons remain a very big part of Christmas in Provence.

Olive wood

A collection of gifts from another bounty of the local terroir, the olive tree!

Candle holders

Cakes and patisseries

Perhaps in preparation for the traditional Provencal 13 desserts of Christmas, an age old custom after Gros Souper, (the equivalent of Christmas dinner) representing Jesus and the 12 apostles.

The 13 deserts normally include a Fougasse (an olive oil flatbread), a Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), a platter of fresh fruit, a fig stuffed with walnuts, dates and white nougat. Different regions have their own variations for what is offered; in Apt, preserved fruit is normally served, in Aix-en-Provençe Calissons, in Marseille Navettes and Croquants, in Nice almond pastes, in the Alps of Haute-Provençe the Bugnes and everywhere the Bûche de Noël!

Chocolate

But there was nothing ordinary about the chocolate at this stall at Aix's Marché de Noël. Each gift piece was a work of art, a masterpiece of every theme imaginable!

A chocolate medical kit!

A chocolate platter

Incroyable!

Marchés de Noël around Provence

The Marchés de Noël are held in local schools or town halls and sometimes in the enchanted setting of a local winery such as Château Val Joanis just a ten minute drive from Lourmarin. I have to admit we didn't find too much to buy apart from their divine wine! It's lucky our little maison de village has a cellar!

Château Val Joanis is nestled at the foot of the Grand Luberon mountain, minutes from Pertuis and close to Lourmarin. This stunning, 400 hectares estate sits on the site of an ancient roman villa and the château originally belonged to Jean of Joanis, secretary to King Louis III of Naples.

As part of the Marché de Noël, in addition to wine, there were all sorts of tempting offerings, gourmet vinegars, olives, preserves and other gifts.

The wine itself was too tempting to resist. Powerful and elegant reds, a rosé of Syrah and Grenache which now is our local favourite and a fresh, crisp, white composed mostly of Viognier, Roussanne and white Grenache, magnifique!

Outside there were pony rides and walks around the château's beautiful gardens which we will be returning to in warmer weather. There was also this wonderful children's book stall, aptly named for just like Château Val Joanis  it was supercalifragilisticexpialidcocious! 

Joyeux Noel everyone from Provence, enjoy your Christmas shopping!!

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Yesterday was special, leaving our paintbrushes and plumbing issues behind, we drove towards the jagged hills of Les Alpilles through Le plaine de la Crau, winding our way through the lush valley floor of silvery, green olive trees and golden vineyards

Suddenly, dominating the sky-line, hugging precariously to the craggy, limestone hillside the magnificent ruins of a medieval château became visible.

Squinting in the bright winter sunshine, one could almost hear the distant shouts from its ramparts and imagine the clanking of armour and swishing of velvet gowns as the ghosts of a bygone age scurried between the shadows of the medieval buildings of this mystical place, the stunning perched village of Les Baux de Provence.

We twisted up the hairpins approaching the village and as it fell behind us we followed the road’s curving path downwards merely a few hundred meters further towards the hidden bauxite caves nestled just below. Our destination was Carrières de Lumières where we knew its video art extravaganza would transport us, this year into the world of the artists Bosch, Brueghel, Arcimboldo, ‘from the fantastic to the wonderful’.

A visit to Carrières de Lumières was something I had been looking forward to all year, I wasn’t disappointed. An enchanting visionary thrill, each years’ multi-media spectacle is as captivating as the last, where within this vast, cavernous space, utterly breathtaking in its own right,

the incredible geniuses of the maestros are splashed upon the towering space of the former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer. Transformed by art of the world’s Masters, it is an unforgettable and heart stirring experience.

This year was no exception, once again we were entranced, both by the brilliance of the artists and the modern technology as unseen paintbrushes swept over 2000 digital images of incredible artistic talent across the 7000 square meters of the quarry’s walls, floors and ceiling.

Miraculously, the stage of Carrières de Lumières was consumed by the fantastical creatures and allegorical figures of the fifteenth & sixteenth century artists Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo.

Magically it was bought to life by an invisible conductor, skillfully orchestrating the music of Carmina Burana by Carl Orff, The Four Seasons by Antonio Vivaldi and Stairway to Heaven by Led Zeppelin as each scene faded in an ever-changing kaleidoscope of wonder.

Every year, no matter the artist, the length of time you stay or how many of the 30 minute performances you watch you will be spellbound.

Gazing in wonder you’ll be reluctant to tear yourself away

and you will leave enchanted but excited to return.

If you haven’t been yet hurry, there are just a few more weeks of Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo’s fantastique et merveilleux performance, it ends January 7th.

We will then all wait, in eager anticipation for next years spectacle, 'Picasso et Les Modern Espagnols' it opens March 2018, I’ll be going won’t you!?

Visiting Carrières de Lumières

Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2018
Admission: 12 Euros, family and other discounts available.

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières

Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in  Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

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The incredible art of Russia's Marc Chagall at Carrières de Lumières has been a 2016 sensation! Yet another maestro’s talent splashed upon the towering walls and floor of the former bauxite quarry in Val d'Enfer, by Les Baux de Provence.  Set to a mystical, musical background, the spellbinding spectacle was breathtaking once again.

Even for the art philistines amongst us, this video extravaganza never fails to captivate and Marc Chagall at Carrières de Lumières was no exception. It is an enchanting visionary thrill, hard to tear yourself away from but one you'll leave excited to return to for the following year's stunning performance!

How to visit Carrières de Lumières

Located: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9(Nimes) and A54(Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 5th 2017
Admission: 12 Euros, family and other discounts available.

Marc Chagall at Carrières de Lumières 2016 ~ Midsummer's Night Dream

Tip: Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour which will transport you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Les Baux de Provence

This ancient perched Provencal village, set high on a rocky escarpment above Les Alpilles is believed to date back to the times of Balthazar, one of the three wise men.

Owned by the Grimaldi family of Monaco, it is only a five minute stroll from Carrières de Lumières.
Wander its meandering cobbled streets and peek into its chapel, simple but serene.

Tip: The chateau tour is excellent, don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Tip: Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

Tip: If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains as you wind your way through the valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

History of the quarries of Val d'Enfer, site for Carrières de Lumières

Located in the heart of Les Alpilles, the quarries of the Val d'Enfer have been known for their white colored limestone since the second century BC. In 1821 a red mineral used for the extraction of aluminium was discovered. It was named bauxite after the neighbouring village of Les Baux, it was mined industrially until 1935.

Mining in Val d'Enfer

Today the walls still reveal the intensive marks of the crocodile saw used to extract the stone.
This saw was operated by a single worker, with its large, trapezoid form its teeth only cut when the worker pulled the saw towards him. Easier to handle than a two man saw it was also cheaper, cutting about two meters of soft stone a day.

Val d'Enfer as a center for the arts

The magical atmosphere and cool temperatures of the site have inspired many. It has been the setting for Dante’s 'Divine Comedy', Gounod’s opera 'Mireille' and Cocteau's film 'The Testament of Orpheus'. In 1977 the combined vision of Cocteau and research of stage designer Joseph Svoboda led to the transformation of the walls into projection screens. In 2010 Culturespaces selected it for to become Carrières de Lumières, profiling the art of the Masters, it is an artistic sensation!

Carrières de Lumières 2016, Chagall ~ Midsummer's Night Dream

Next year Bosch, Brueghel, Arcimboldo, 'from the fantastic to the wonderful' ~ not to be missed on any trip to this part of Provence.

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