Throughout the Luberon region the landscape is peppered with fields of small, round shaped lavender bushes which for almost nine months of the year lie dormant like sleeping hedgehogs. In the spring they begin to sprout and from about the middle of June their fragrant flowers burst into bloom, fanning their purple fronds along the arid ridges of Provence as they have for centuries.

The fields of Provence become splashed with soft shades of violet and lilac as an unseen paintbrush strokes the earth with color. Framed by a backdrop of rich, velvet green from the surrounding hills, with its vineyards, pine trees, orchards and olive groves, the stage is set for this annual symphony of the senses.

The lavender from Sault in the Luberon

Nowhere is the lavender more spectacular in the Luberon hills than in the fields around Sault, about an hour north of Lourmarin. The drive up through the hills and undulating plateaus of the Luberon is spectacular with breathtaking views of Mont Ventoux.

Famous for being one of the toughest climbs in Le Tour de France, Mont Vent0ux is a dramatic, 1,909 m (6,263 ft) high peak which dominates the Luberon skyline. It looks particularly splendid at this time of year with a skirt of ribboned lavender at its feet.

The picturesque little town of Sault sits high on a ridge, from mid June to the end of August the fields in the valley below are resplendent with lavender.

Every summer people flock to see the lavender and Sault's pretty streets and squares bustle with visitors.

No more so than in August during The Sault Lavender Festival which for the last 35 years has celebrated these fragrant jewels carpeting the fields at this time of year.

There are over thirty lavender species and hundreds of varietals. In this region of Provence, most lavender associated businesses grow the hybrid, lavendine. Lavendine is grown at lower altitudes than lavender at around 500-700m. (1650-2300 feet). It is tended with great expertise and surrounded by trees and fields, without pesticides.

Lavendine blooms at the end of June and to ensure it’s not overexposed to the sun is harvested from mid July to August. 40kg (89Ilbs) of flowers are needed to provide one litre (2.2Ilbs) of essential lavendine oil. When we were there in mid July the harvest had already begun.

THE STORY OF LAVENDER

Lavender has been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Both the Greeks and the Romans recognized its’ healing properties and the Bible refers to it as ‘spikenard’ used to wash the feet of Jesus. Lavender was first used medicinally in France in the 11th century, initially in Montpellier, 160km (100 miles) from Lourmarin. In 16th century England, Queen Elizabeth I insisted on having fresh lavender throughout her residences and in the 17th century it was used as a remedy for the Great Plague in London. During the Victorian era lavender became extremely popular both in gardens and perfumed products.

Often called the ‘blue gold’ by perfume manufacturers, the story of lavender as a perfume, began in Grasse, 200 km (125 miles) from Lourmarin, in the Provencal hills above The French Riviera. In the 12th century, rather than perfume, Grasse was a center for the leather-tanning industry, and its' leather gloves were coveted by the nobility of Europe. These gloves were softened by being soaked in urine, the smell was obviously not pleasant but a local tanner resolved the problem by using a scent of rose water and spices to overcome the aroma. When Catherine de Medici, (Queen of France by marriage to King Henry II from 1547 until 1559), was presented with a pair of these scented gloves she was enchanted. Shortly afterwards, the rare scents from around Grasse, myrtle, jasmine, rose, orange blossom wild mimosa and of course lavender began to be captured and bottled. And so began Grasse's perfume legacy eventually establishing it as the perfume capital of the world.

July Lavender Festival in Apt

The Provençals are quite rightly very proud of their way of life and their traditions which often pay tribute to the bounty of the land in this beautiful region they live. Customs have been handed down through the generations, ones they still love to celebrate. The local lavender legacy is one of these and each year Apt is one of the Luberon towns that hosts a lavender festival.

Lavender products are for sale,

and the farm machinery which harvests the lavender is proudly displayed, both old

and modern.

Distilleries are brought into town and their beaming operators patiently explain how the lavender is distilled.

Hugh bales of lavender are displayed on farm carts and local children hand out sprigs to the visitors.

I'm so blessed to be able to be part of this, to live for several months of the year in this stunning part of Provence is a gift. Celebrating with these warm, generous hearted people, becoming friends with some of them and understanding their simple but profound connection to the land is so special. With its shutters and sunflowers, it vineyards and at this time of year its lavender, the Luberon is truly an enchanting place, one that I cherish, a place I'm so fortunate to be able to fit into my life, for now at least, lucky me!

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When the USA fell in love with rosé

It wasn’t that long ago that rosé wine was hard to find in USA. Initially it was often confused with white zinfandel, wine of a similar color but not similar in any other way. I can even remember rosé being dismissed as being a watered down red with half the alcohol content! But then, about ten years ago, Provençal rosé hit the American supermarket shelves and when sales exploded it sent the local vintners scampering to produce something to rival it. And small wonder that Provençal rosé has been such a success, for this subtle, pale pink shimmer in your glass, so crisp and refreshing seems to define what so many of us love about Provence. As it sparkles like sunshine, with every sip one is transported to be sitting at a bistro table below the shaded branches of gently swaying plane trees, cicadas chattering incessantly above as you ponder the biggest decision of the day, what are you going to order for lunch?

Léoube

I digress, what has this got to do with Léoube the wonderful rosé from a wine château near Bormes-Les-Mimosa in Provence? Well believe it or not the first time I tasted Léoube was not in Provence but in California. A dear friend found it at our favourite, local épicerie, Diablo Foods in Lafayette, 30 miles east of San Francisco near where we live, and we were smitten.

Daylesford

The second time I saw it was a year later, again not in Provence, but at a gorgeous organic farm shop, Daylesford, in The Cotswolds, England.

Courtyard at Daylesford

In fact, I remember it was the only wine I saw there.

Léoube wine for sale at Daylesford

Situated next to an organic farm, belonging to the Bamford family, in addition to the farm shop, Daylesford offers a collection of stunning home, gift, clothing and garden shops, a cookery school, several fabulous dining options and the Bamford Wellness Spa.

There are also several equally lovely deli style farm shops and cafés in London, click here for locations

A few weeks after my first visit to Daylesford we were having lunch at a nearby pub in the Cotswolds, The White Rabbit, in Kingham and once again Léoube featured predominantly on the menu. Intrigued we got chatting to the manager who explained, Daylesford owns the White Rabbit, Daylesford is owned by Lord and Lady Bamford who also own a château in Provence, volia Léoube!!

The bar at The Wild Rabbit pub

Organic farming, a JCB and a chateau in Provence

Their story goes something like this….. when the Bamfords, also owners of JCB (England’s equivalent to Caterpillar) bought a fairy tale château in Bormes-Les-Mimosa it came with a small vineyard.

They became friends with their neighbour, a local vintner, Jean-Jacques Ott. They dispatched some JCB’s, recruited Monsieur Ott and later his son, who helped them in the conversion of both the vineyards and the olive grove to organic production. It's an incredible success story!

In my opinion they have established one of the loveliest domaines in Provence. Under Lady Carole Bamford's expert care, just like their farm in England and Daylesford, the commitment to sustainability and nurturing the land shines.

Although rosé is the star of the show they also produce red, white and sparkling. They now export to more than thirty countries and are full of further aspirations.

The tasting room and shop at Château Léoube

The shop at Château Léoube has the same enticing ambience as Daylesford.

Shop at Daylesford

At both locations the understated, artistic displays reek of style and good taste.

The natural, 'feel good' look tugs at your soul and makes you ignore the price tag!

And let's not forget the opportunity to taste the wine!

Just down the road the story continues at The Léoube Café.

Café Léoube, Pellegrin Beach

The café and it's location on Pellegrin beach is yet another Daylesford style haven.

One that feels like you’ve arrived at a 5 star desert island.

Although we did think it was a bit much having to pay 11 euros to park the car when we had a reservation for lunch at the café.

The menu was delicious.

We chose the daurade ~ sea bass

The shop on the beach was a continuation of the same allure, brimming with temptation.

A beach version of  the ladies clothing shop at Daylesford.

The Daylesford ladies clothing shop.

Even the plates for sale at Café Léoube begged to be purchased.

Everything at Café Léoube and Pellegrin Beach is dedicated to relaxing with its laid back, feel good vibe.

We will be returning for sure; to Pellegrin Beach, Château Léoube and Daylesford of course!

Château Léoube

2387 Route de Lèoube 83230 Bormes-les-Mimosas

Café Léoube

Open from April - October for lunch and dinner reservations are essential.

Call +33 04 98 07 69 88 or book online here

Check out their summer program and the various events hosted here throughout the season.

Click here for directions to both the Château and Café at Pellegrin Beach.

Daylesford

Daylesford near Kingham Cotswolds GL56 0YG +44 (0)1608 731700

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We decided we'd like to explore a little more of the region beyond the Luberon and spend a few days on the Côte d'Azur. We were in search of a quiet, boutique hotel, one that offered good food where we could relax for a few days by a pool and feel a little indulged. With lots of places to chose from you're never completely sure if you've made a good selection until you arrive. Nestled on the cliffs above the sparkling Mediterranean, Hôtel La Villa La Duce, proved to be a gem!

About a three hour drive from Lourmarin we chose to drive across country instead of taking the autoroute. It was a scenic journey, through vast areas of sweeping vineyards into the beautiful countryside of the Var.

We stopped for lunch by the Mediterranean at the pretty beach town of Le Lavandou, just 13km west of our destination at Rayol-Canadol-sur-Mer and 30km west of the beaches of the Saint Tropez Peninsular.

Le Lavandou bustles with restaurants, shops and cafés, cheerily strung along the quay.

We wandered by the water until we found somewhere that seemed impossible to resist. Doubtless tempted by a display of one of our favourite rosés, Léoube, from nearby Bormes-Les-Mimosas. (There's a story to Léoube which I'll share next time.)

After lunch we wound our way a little further along the oleander fringed corniche. Mediterranean villas, smothered with bright purple and fushia bougainvillea clung to the hillside either side of us, painting a profusion of color along our pathway

Then we arrived at Hôtel La Villa La Duce, perched amongst the clay tiled roof tops with dazzling views from the terrace, of our beautifully appointed room, of the Mediterranean and Côte d'Azur.

Champagne and rosé were some of the offerings at cocktail hour, carefully positioned to show case the view.

As was the hotel's restaurant, Le Café l’Envol.....

The cuisine was a delicious work of art without being pretentious and it was reasonably priced.

View the menu here.

Breakfast was served on the upper terrace at Le Club Papillon with sweeping views across the glistening, blue water.

The breakfast buffet was a sumptuous feast, we certainly didn't need lunch!

After 2 days of  indulgence we decided to explore a little further and visited Gassin one of Les plus beau villages de France, a medieval village high above the beautiful Saint-Tropez Peninsular.

Jean-Luc Ducreux' incredible bronze and steel sculpture dangled by the village entrance.

Where 'Don Quixote' seemed to be guarding the secrets of this picturesque little spot.

And it was really very pretty.

A visit to one of Les beau villages never disappoints.

We stopped on the short drive back at the beach near Croix-Valmer.

Where we were enticed to stay for dinner with the sand between our toes.

Gambas et frites..... très délicieux!

We only had a few days in this little haven,

and it was hard to tear ourselves away.

Only open a few years, we've already booked to go back. If you'd like to visit Hôtel La Villa La Duce click here, it's cheaper to book direct!

Where do you like to stay on the Côte d'Azur?

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Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

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Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

"Life is what happens when you're busy doing other things." Words of wisdom I've often heard from a dear friend, for indeed sometimes life does throw you off course and you find yourself in unexpected circumstances. Such was our story when we returned from Lourmarin to California last December when unexpected knee surgery meant that the biggest decision of my day became whether I should attempt to stand. But nothing lasts forever, time heals and despite the uncertainty of whether I'd be able to travel, just a few weeks ago we were outside the door to our little house. It felt a million miles away from our 'other life' but we were back.

As we strolled down our street into the village the next morning everything was just as we'd left it. When we're not there, Lourmarin, and our life there, really does feel 'a million miles away'. It takes on a dream like quality and after a while I find myself questioning, is it really as special as my reminiscences? The fact that on our return it actually is, always brings me such joy, why do I persistently doubt myself?

Sipping coffee outside Café Gaby, watching the world stroll by, our morning baguette just purchased, it felt as if we'd never been away.

A few days before Easter, when visitors would be returning, the village was ready. Restaurant tables and chairs were neatly arranged and fresh flowers carefully placed. The shops were newly stocked with temptations, their enticing displays spilling out onto the streets.

On Friday market day the village began to bustle.

At this time of year local asparagus and strawberries dominate the grocery stalls, deliciously sweet with their promise of summer.

The band was back in their regular spot filling the air with a their melodious sound, contributing to the festive atmosphere.

And within days we were returning to the places we love.

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ~Sunday market day

The Antique Fair at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the Antique Capital of Provence with its plethora of antique shops and galleries. Each Sunday, alongside a traditional Provencal market, there is an antique market. In addition, twice a year, a spectacular Antiques Fair settles itself within this delightful little town. We wandered from stall to stall hoping to discover an irresistible temptation!

Tintin

This year, amongst all the antique treasures sat a Tintin display. Who doesn't remember this courageous Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy? Created by Georges Remi, a Belgian cartoonist, who wrote under the pen name Hergé, the adventures of Tintin first appeared in 1929 in Le Petit Vingtième. It became one of the most popular European comic stores of the 20th century, published in more than 70 languages with sales over over 70 million and adapted for radio, television and film. If anyone wanted a souvenir of their childhood hero, here it was!

Château la Coste

La Terrasse at Château la Coste

Sat at a brightly coloured bistro table, under the trellis at Château la Coste's La Terrasse restaurant, listening to the soft chuckle of the fountain and the charming lilting tones of excited French chatter, is one of favourite lunchtime spots.

Château La Coste is a stunning wine domain 14km from Aix-en-Provence. It showcases not only fine wine but food, (La Terrasse being just one of of its five restaurants) art, architecture and well-being.

THE ART AND ARCHITECTURE WALK

Art is a particular feature at Château La Coste. The Art and Architecture Walk is a two hour stroll between the olive groves and vines, where one meanders through the woods stopping to admire the incredible pieces of modern art which pepper the walk. I wasn't quite up for a walk that long but I'm hoping to do is soon.

Open March 1st – November 1st Everyday 10 am – 7 pm
November 2 – February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Dominating the art collection is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue 'The Crouching Spider'. The spider hovers just above the glistening water by the Art Center, its' twisting, muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the surrounding vines

This year even the trees beside the restaurants reflect the artistic vibe, adorned with golden bauble necklaces

And let's not forget the wine!

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00. Learn more here.

At the end of the day, our terrace seems to be the perfect place to enjoy a local vintage, admiring our view as slowly the sky changes color and nightfall settles itself upon the village.

And so Lourmarin is no longer a million miles away. As we settle back into our life in Provence it's now our other life that begins to flicker, rippling like reflections on the water until we return.

This time we're here for a while, battling the detritus of Brexit we have long stay visas. We have so much to look forward to, most of all just 'being' in this special place, 'busy' with the 'business of living', living in Provence. September will come quickly, and Maison des Cerises will be then be available (as it is for a short while in July & August) should you want to sample this enchanting little corner of France.

A bientôt!

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Artists have always been drawn to Provence, inspired by its' striking beauty and the brilliance of its natural light which so illuminates this stunning part of France. For me, the artist who spectacularly showcases the radiance of the region, is Paul Cézanne. This year, Carrières des Lumières paid tribute to Cézanne. Its title says it all, “Cezanne Le Maître de la Provence”. The performance is an emotional encapsulation of the very essence of Provence and all that I love about it.

Carrières des Lumières: the art spectacle in a quarry

I've been fortunate to visit Carrières des Lumières almost every year since it opened in 2012. If you have not yet experienced its wonder, Carrières des Lumières (literally translated 'Caves of Light') is a musical, art extravaganza where the works of the Masters are splashed across the towering walls of a former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer.

The magic of Carrières des Lumières has now been transported across the globe in its dazzling Van Gogh production, Van Gogh La Nuit étoilée. But it began here, in Provence.

Carrières des Lumières is a short drive from St Rémy-de-Provence through a twisting, boulder strewn hillside between the pine trees where suddenly the magnificent ruins of a medieval château come into view. Hugging precariously to the craggy, limestone escarpment, it’s almost possible to hear the sounds of distant gunfire being fired from the ramparts over the perched village of Les Baux-de-Provence which tumbles down the hill below.

Carrières de Lumières is just a few hairpin turns further. Once inside the quarry's vast, cavernous space, one is immediately entranced. Invisible paintbrushes sweep more than 2000 digital images of artistic genius across the 7000 square meters of the quarry’s walls, floors and ceiling. And this year it is Cézanne’s brush strokes that hold the audience spellbound.

Vassily Kandinsky

The spectacle was accompanied by the work of Vassily Kandinsky (1866-1944).

Known as the founder of abstract art, Kandinsky was greatly influenced by Cézanne.

Born in Moscow, Kandinsky was also a poet and art theorist. In 1900 he settled in Munich studying painting and traveling across Europe with his partner Gabriele Münter. After meeting Cézanne, Monet and Matisse, Kandinsky's neo-impressionist art became replaced with landscapes. Subsequently he became interested in abstract art and his work constantly challenged conventional esthetical norms.

Forced to return to Moscow in 1914, Kandinsky witnessed the Russian revolution finally leaving Russia for good in 1921 with his wife Nina, to join the faculty of the Bauhaus in Weimer, Germany.

In 1933 Kandinsky fled Nazi Germany eventually settling in Neuilly-sur-Seine, west of Paris, where he spent the rest of his life. Here he became influenced by local surrealist painters. His palette of colours softened and small creatures and cellular shapes appeared in his work.

Paul Cézanne

Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence in 1839. His father had grand ambitions for him. Having risen from humble beginnings as a hat maker, he'd become the owner of a bank where he expected his son to join him. He sent Paul to boarding school (1852-1858) where Paul was influenced by the future writer Emile Zola, forming a life-long friendship with him. In 1837 Paul joined the drawing academy in Aix and to the great disappointment of his father he abandoned his law degree and moved to Paris. Spending time with Zola he studied at the Académie Charles Suisse but traveled frequently back to Provence.

Cézanne was a prolific painter creating multiple versions of his work.

He produced numerous still lives, restoring the nobility of what at the time was regarded as a minor genre.

"With an apple I will amaze Paris" he is said to have exclaimed.

In 1866 Cézanne began a series of paintings of his Uncle. He used a technique where he applied thick layers of paint to model the face and modulate the color. It marked a turning point in his career. This unconventional style was rejected by the Salon in Paris who mockingly declared his portraits were painted 'not only with a knife, but rather with a pistol'.

In 1869 Cézanne met his mistress Hortense Fiquet and began working along side his friend, Camille Piassarro. Cézanne refined his technique painting the outdoors, capturing the beauty of forests, gardens, ponds, bathers and outdoor picnics.

Until the end of his life Cézanne painted the bathers in multiple settings, blending the human form into the landscape, concentrating his efforts on the body as a whole using them to structure space.

In 1874 Cézanne participated in his first impressionist exhibition.

In 1883 he met Monet and Renoir but they, like many others in their world failed to recognise his genius. In 1883 Cézanne married Hortense with whom he’d had a son in 1872. In 1888 Cézanne returned from Provence to Paris. In 1895 the art dealer Vollard exhibited 150 of Cézanne 's works including his oil painting the card players. The exhibition was a resounding success.

In 1901 Cézanne established his workshop on Lauves Hill in Aix-en-Provence which overlooked Mt Sainte-Victoire.

From 1902 until he died in 1906, Cézanne painted Mt Sainte-Victoire many times.

Like much of his work he painted it from several viewpoints,

studying the effect of light on his subjects.

Cézanne’s later works were predominantly of his native Provence where he found serenity painting scenes of every-day life, colourful houses, the local people, and landscapes. These landscapes illustrate how he regarded Provence, as the essence of nature.

These pieces offer a glimpse into Cézanne's inner struggles, the independence of his style and his unique relationship with nature.

Today Cézanne is regarded as the pioneer of modernity. His particular use of forms and color set him apart from the impressionists which later influenced later early 20th century avant guarde-artists.

Cézanne continued to exhibit his works until 1906, the year he died.

Paul Cézanne, le Mâitre de Provence.

Visiting Carrières de Lumières

Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2022
Admission: 14.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. Booking online advance is recommended

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières
Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

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After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

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I haven’t written a post for a while, feeling unsure during these difficult times about what people might want to read.

Springtime in Provence?

But then I’m not actually there, and like most people can’t even get there.....

Life on the ski slopes of Lake Tahoe?

Perhaps that would sound too idyllic? Living on the ski slopes at Lake Tahoe's ski resort, Northstar, especially now, has been very special. We've felt blessed to be surrounded by such breathtaking winter beauty, able to ski from our front door, but even here, life has been restricted and often lonely.....

Then I thought about comparing life under COVID in Britain, California and Provence? But despite the glimpses of light at the end of the tunnel, would people really want to read any more about COVID?

I started to question why I even write this blog, that perhaps my silence had driven my readers away?

And then I received two comments on posts I’d written several years ago. One about the WWII American Air base at Greenham Common in England (written in 2018) and the other about Changi Gaol in Singapore (written in (2015). Both very personal and both connected to World War II. A reminder that however challenging and for some tragic, this last year has been, we haven’t had to endure the horrific challenges of war ~ the tyranny of occupation, the terror of being bombed or despair of parting with our loved ones leaving to fighting a war no one ever wanted……

That these people had reached out to me also helped me realize why I write; connecting with others, that my ramblings get found and resonate. I often fret that my focus should be about sharing useful information, travel related or otherwise, when in fact the posts which receive the most love are often those about the journey of life, written from the heart. So forgive me, here are some seasonal, heart-felt perspectives about my three special places.

Provence in the spring

I've been in Provence in the spring many times and of course it’s beautiful!  Like many other places at this time of year the air smells fresh and crisp, the buds and leaves are bursting, Provence's abundant fruit trees kissed with blossom petals. These cherry blossoms bloom outside our front door, hence the name of our house ~ Maison des Cerises ~House of the Cherry Trees.

All across the region, throughout the sprawling vineyards, the vines' gnarly fists begin to show the promise of the coming season's abundance as the leaves of surrounding trees unfurl into a canopy of green.

Spring flowers splash cheer along the roadside heralding new life, brimming their radiance in the market stalls and shops. Lourmarin's delightful florist 'Une Fleur M'a Di' welcoming the season with a whimsical touch.

And in Provence's markets, bright yellow bouquets of Mimosa take center stage.

El-fresco diners flow onto the cobbled streets where below the clay tiled rooftops and shuttered windows the ambience of this ancient place is so beguiling.

The video art spectacle Carrières de Lumières resumes next month, April 3 2021, one of my favorite places to visit and take our visitors. This year it will be profiling the work of Cezanne and Kandinsky. Even though Carrières de Lumières' stunning Van Gogh production is  now being shown in other cities, including San Francisco, its' setting at Les Baux-de-Provence in an old bauxite quarry cave, nestled under the crumbling ramparts of a medieval Provencal village perché, is somehow more enticing!!

There’s been some changes in the 13 months since we've been in Lourmarin. An impressive new shop for our wonderful bakery ~ Boulangerie de Stéphane Riquier ~an even shorter stroll from our house! And next door Lourmarin has been blessed with the addition of a butcher, Boucherie de Lourmarin ~ Avenue du 8 mai 1945 Route d'Apt 84160 Lourmarin ~ thanks to the wonders of their social media posts I know I'm going to be a regular customer! I so hope later this year we can return to our enchanting Provencal village.

England in the spring

In early March the British Isles become resplendent with spring flowers and blossoms, stunning banks of primroses tumbling throughout the woodlands. My own Home thoughts from Abroad, so aptly written by Robert Browning, years ago, resonate deeply ~ “Oh to be in England now that Spring is here”

Fields of baby lambs.

Normally at this time of year pub gardens get busy, people happy to be able to enjoy a pint and lunch outside. Sadly, this year, during COVID, they'll have to wait, hopefully only until mid April.

And in spring, English gardens everywhere burst into life.

A tad cooler than Provence, but that same feeling of expectancy, with blossoms sprinkling a confetti of petals across the tree branches.

Lake Tahoe, California

When we first arrived in Lake Tahoe in mid-November, just the highest slopes of The Northstar Ski Resort, where we've been living, were dusted with snow.

And then the snow came and the resort sprung to life. Thanks to Northstar's efficiency and their COVID precautions, the resort has stayed open and we've felt safe enjoying skiing in this stunning place.

Those initial days of powder were soon followed by winter storms. The view from our window became a blanket of winter white.

Not without its challenges for those that needed to travel!

But making the magnificent views across the lake from the top of the mountain even more spectacular.

The nearby town of Truckee became carpeted with banks of thick cotton wool.

And we watched in delight and pride as our our 2 year-old granddaughter became competent with her tiny boots and skis for the first time ~ "More Grandpa! More!"

And then there's Lake Tahoe itself ..........

My three vey special places in the early spring. I hope you are reading this from somewhere you love as much, stay safe, things are getting better!

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Imagine staying in a glorious 19th century Provencal country estate surrounded by mighty cedars, olive trees and resplendent vineyards framed by the rolling Luberon hills of the Durance Valley. Transformed in 2013 by architect Alexandre Lafourcade, Domaine de Fontenille is now a luxury spa hotel and exceptional wine domaine, with nineteen beautifully appointed bedrooms, two restaurants and a spa. The original architecture has been carefully restored subtly blending the old and new to create this delightful haven.

Location

Situated on the outskirts of the Luberon village of Lauris, Domaine de Fontenille is 5 minutes from Lourmarin, 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence, 45 minutes from Avignon and Marseille Airport, 50 minutes from Marseille and just over an hour from the coastal destinations of Cassis and Bandol. If you're visiting the region a stay in Fontenille would be the perfect place to explore the serenity and beauty of the Luberon.

History

The original bastide dates from 1638 and belonged to the Savornin family. In 1850 Alphonse de Savornin built the gorgeous Provencal country property we see today. His granddaughter Amélie, later developed the park like grounds. In 2014 the current owners restored and developed it to its present glory.

The 17th century vaulted cellar has become the reception hall and the old wine cellars a Center for Contemporary Art. The ground floor reception rooms opening onto the terrace have been tastefully refurbished and overlook the stunning gardens.

Wine at Domaine de Fontenille

Under the guidance of oenologist and agricultural engineer Laurence Berlemont, an expert in Provence wines, the estate has now been fully restored to the 35 hectares it was in 1748. Since 2018 the production has been totally organic.

Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille

Sample the domaine's cuvées; Amélie, Fontenille and Alphonse in white, rosé and red at the tasting rooms; Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille (across the road from the hotel). Open every day all year: 10.00 -13.00 & 14.00 -19.00, no reservations required.

La Boutique du Lourmarin

From April 1 to September 30 tasting is also available in Lourmarin on Place de la Fontaine, 2 rue du Grand Pré: Open every day : 10.00 - 13.00 & 14.00-18.00

At any time of year Fontenille's terrace is the perfect setting to enjoy one of the domaine's vintages, surrounded by the ambience of this special place.

Restaurants at Domaine de Fontenille

Fontenille has two restaurants overseen by Chef Benjamin Pâtissier. Both profile locally sourced products about 80% from the hotel's own garden.

Le Champ des Lunes

Le Champ des Lunes is a Michelin-starred gourmet treat. Open all year, (From February to the end of May closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday all day). Set Menu from 58 euros. Click here for full details and reservations

La Cuisine d'Amélie

From the terrace overlooking the beautiful grounds or in the south reception rooms, La Cuisine d'Amélie offers a delicious and creative choice of small plates. Breakfast is also served here. Open all year, (February to the end of May closed Wednesday and Thursday all day). Prices between 14-20 euros. Click here for menus and reservations

Summer musical evenings

Throughout the summer the hotel hosts wonderful musical evenings set within its breathtaking grounds

Enjoy a casual BBQ supper on the terrace or come just for the music. We loved it, the food was delicious and the performances were excellent, we're looking forward to returning this year.

The Spa at Fontenille

In addition to the fitness room and 20 meter heated outdoor swimming pool Fontenille also has a spa. Combining the natural beauty of the hotel’s tranquil setting the spa offers bespoke treatments to meet client’s specific needs.

Spa Senses Day I'm excited to try one of Fontenille's special Senses Days ~ a 50 minute treatment with lunch at either La Cuisine d'Amélie, or Le Champ des Lunes restaurant and complimentary use of the hotel pool all day. A perfect indulgence to pamper oneself. Price: 155 Euros Click here for Reservations and Spa Menu

For more information about Domaine de Fontenille visit their website

Domaine de Fontenille Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris

+33 (0)4 13 98 00 00

info@domainedefontenille

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

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