I have strolled through the beautiful Carmel Mission many times but when I visited it recently I felt as if I’d stepped through a portal and arrived in Europe. Maybe the sense of familiarity and the past was so profound because I’ve wandered the cloisters of so many ancient churches and cathedrals in Europe, particularly in France and England. But in this historic building, on a sun-drenched, spring morning with the sky wearing her best cornflower blue bonnet, the lavender blooming and the air perfumed with flowers it felt that I was no longer in Carmel, California but 5000 miles away, basking in the peaceful serenity of a place of worship, somewhere in a small European village, maybe even in Provence.

My time at the mission inspired to discover its' story. All ten year old children in California study Mission history but neither of our children attended 4th grade and I’m embarrassed to admit that until now all I knew was that the missions were established as part the colonization of California by Spanish priests and one in particular, Father Junípero Serra. I also have a personal reason to learn more. As many of you know, we’re building a house in Carmel, it's located on Serra Avenue and steps away is a memorial and statue of this esteemed man, but who was he?

Junípero Serra Memorial, Serra Avenue, Carmel

Father Junípero Serra

Junípero Serra was born Miguel José Serra Ferrer on November 24, 1713 in Petra, on the Spanish Balearic island of Mallorca. He was the son of peasant farmers, the 3rd of 5 children. At the age of 16, as a close follower of St. Francis of Assisi, Miguel entered the Franciscan friary and took the name Junípero. Before his ordination he spent 17 years an academic, earning his a doctorate in 1744 as a Professor of Philosophy and was regarded as a bright, articulate scholar, speaker and writer.

The statue of Father Junípero Serra in the Carmel Mission garden

In 1749, Father Junípero Serra, aged 36, responded to a call for Franciscan missionaries to the New World, he left Mallorca and after a long and difficult voyage, on December 8, 1749 he arrived at the port of Vera Cruz, Mexico. From there he walked to Mexico City, a grueling 24 day journey during which he injured his leg, an affliction that made walking difficult for him for the rest of his life. He spent the next 17 years preaching to the indigenous people of Mexico, for nine years in the rugged, mountainous Sierra Gorda region of North-Central Mexico and the following 8 years in coastal villages and mining camps.

In 1767, when King Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuits from all Spanish territories, the 14 Jesuit missions in Baja California were suddenly left unstaffed. The Franciscans were asked to take them over and Father Junípero Serra was appointed the new Superior of the region. In 1768, Jose de Gálvez, the Spanish inspector-general decided to establish presidios (military garrisons) and missions in Alta California, (present day California) as a deterrent against Russian and British rivals. The following year Father Serra asked to join an expedition to establish missions in San Diego, the Monterey Bay area, and the Santa Barbara Channel area. After another fraught journey, on June 27, 1769 Father Serra reached San Diego where he founded the first mission. In April 1770 he founded the Presidio  (military base) and 2nd mission in Monterey moving it in 1771 to its current location beside the Carmel River where it became known as The Carmel Mission (also known as San Carlos Borromeo) and became the headquarters of all mission operations in Alta California.

The location of the Carmel Mission Cross, put here by Father Junípero Serra in August 1771

There is evidence of human habitation in California dating back to over 15,000 years. When Father Serra arrived in Carmel he found only 500 people living there, the Rumsen people, spread out across 5 villages, some year round some seasonal. Showing nothing but kindness and respect, Father Serra reached out to these people to teach them about his Christian faith.

Original stone church walls and bell tower, at the Carmel Mission quarried from the Santa Lucia Mountains

From the Carmel Mission Father Serra oversaw the planning, construction, and staffing of a total of nine missions: San Diego de Alcalá (1769), San Carlos Borromeo (Carmel) (1770), San Antonio de Padua (1771), San Gabriel Arcángel (1771), San Luis Obispo de Tolosa (1772), San Francisco de Asis (1776), San Juan Capistrano (1776), Santa Clara de Asis (1777), and San Buenaventura (1782). He was also present at the founding of the Presidio of Santa Barbara (1782). It is estimated he travelled about 6000 miles on foot to supervise mission work and to confer the sacrament of Confirmation.

Founding of the Missions

The missions were all established near Native American settlements next to fertile agricultural land and a reliable water source. There were careful negotiations with the local Indians whose support was crucial, without it a newly built mission could be destroyed. These people were enticed to join the missions by the promise of a stable food supply and the offer of protection. If they joined, they were then expected to abide by Spanish law.

Cloisters at The Carmel Mission

Initially the Indians lived in traditional conical-shaped houses made of tree branches. They then built permanent houses made of adobe bricks close to the mission church. They were allowed to travel outside the mission to visit kin, to hunt or for trade and military purposes. Each mission was staffed by 1 or 2 Franciscan priests with Native American supervisors and with 5-7 soldiers who acted as guards and a police force. At the height of the mission period, as many as 1,500 native people lived under the jurisdiction of a mission. Over 80 different languages were spoken many of which were not understood by each tribe. To overcome the difficulties this created the missionaries composed short books about the Christian faith in native languages, younger people were taught Spanish and others learned it through their dealings with soldiers and settlers. To prevent conflict between rival Indian tribes the Padres encouraged marriage between the tribes.

Daily life in the Missions

The missions were all working farms. Cattle were raised for food and to trade hides and a variety of agricultural goods were produced, wheat, fruits, vegetables, grapes for wine and olives for oil.

Traditionally the local Indians wore little clothing. Women wore just skirts made of animal skin or woven plants and apart from ceremonial dances or special occasions men were normally naked. To the Padres, nakedness was a sign of poverty, so all who entered the mission were given a long sleeved shirt called a cotón, and a blanket, both were made of wool. Women received a woolen petticoat and men a breechclout to cover their groin area. A new set of garments was handed out annually.

Everyone had a role to play at the mission working about five hours a day during autumn and winter and up to seven hours a day during spring and summer. Sundays were for rest and religious services, in addition to special Catholic feast days which could be as many as 92 a year.

Inside the Carmel Mission Basilica

Each day began with prayers and mass, followed by breakfast, normally a corn soup called atole, still popular in Mexico today. At midday everyone would gather for prayers and lunch, normally boiled wheat, corn, peas, beans, vegetables and fruit.

In the Carmel Mission kitchenThis was followed by a nap or siesta, as was the Spanish tradition. Work then resumed until sunset when everyone gathered again for prayers and supper which would be similar to breakfast but often with beef which was widely eaten. Meals would be taken communally or in families' homes.

The Mission Kitchen at the Carmel Mission

In addition to traditional farming, specialized workers made soap, tanned leather, wove or were blacksmiths. Men were often vaquers (cowboys), or shepherds, cobblers, masons, carpenters, blacksmiths, tanners and farmhands. Women attended to washing, sewing or grinding wheat. Most work was done on a quota system, once their quota was met, the people were allowed free time.

Farm equipment used at the Carmel Mission

Indian men also often served on military expeditions and helped protect the missions. The Catholic Fathers kept records about the number of people they administered the sacraments to which sadly reveal a high mortality rate. This was often because of exposure to diseases carried by Spanish and Mexican soldiers and settlers who visited the missions in addition to the primitive nature of local medicine and lack of doctors.

The Grand Sala at the Carmel Mission where guests were entertained, the terra cotta flooring and furnishings are original

Father Serra fought the Spanish authorities for control over the missions urging them to establish an overland route to Alta California, which led to Juan Bautista de Anza establishing settlements at San Francisco in 1776 and at Los Angeles in 1781. As the number of missions grew so did Father Serra’s own political power because in addition to their religious role the missions also served political and economic purposes. The number of civilian colonists with their Indian populations kept the region within Spain’s political orbit and economically they produced all the colony’s cattle and grain.

A Padre's bedroom at the Carmel Mission

During the remaining 3 years of his life, Father Junípero Serra visited the missions from San Diego to San Francisco, travelling more than 600 miles where he confirmed all who had been baptized. During his 14 years at the California Missions Father Junípero Serra confirmed 5,309 people, he founded 9 of the total 21 missions which were eventually established along the 700 mile route from San Diego to Sonoma along the El Camino Real, (The Royal Road) named in honor of the Spanish monarchy which financed the expeditions into California in their quest for empire.

Father Junípero Serra's cell at the Carmel Mission where he died

On August 28, 1784, at the age of 70 Father Junípero Serra died at The Carmel Mission. He was buried there the next day under the sanctuary floor. It was 35 years to the day that he left Cadiz, Spain for the missions of the New World.

The remaining 12 California missions were founded after Father Serra's death. Gradually some of the Indians abandoned the missions especially after 1810 when the Spanish government stopped supplying the presidios and ordered the missions to do so instead. This greatly increased the Indians’ work load which created great resentment. The missions however were never meant to be permanent institutions. The Spanish authorities felt the Indians should leave after ten years although the missionaries believed this was not enough time for indigenous people to adapt to Hispanic ways. Nevertheless, once Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821, by the mid-1830s the Franciscans had been replaced with civilian administrators and the process of secularization begun. The new administrators were unpopular with the Indians, most of the mission land was sold or distributed to the families of local ranchers or to the administrators themselves. Most Indians did not receive a land grant, and were forced to earn a living elsewhere.

The Ava Maria bell

The Ava Maria bell at the Carmel Mission was cast in Mexico in 1807 & installed in the Mission in 1820. It was removed for safe keeping by local Indians when the Mission was secularized in 1834 & was not restored to the Mission until 1925. It eventually cracked but an exact duplicate was cast in Holland in 2010. Today it hangs in its original setting on the south side of the bell tower. The wall visible here was erected in 2011 to celebrate the 300th anniversary of Father Junípero Serra's birth in 1713, it was part of a campaign to preserve the historical buildings of the Carmel Mission.

Father Junípero Serra was canonized as a Saint of the Catholic Church by His Holiness Pope Francis during his official visit to the United States on September 23, 2015. In His address His Holiness Pope Francis said:

“ Junípero Serra left his native land and its way of life. He was excited about blazing trails, going forth to meet many people, learning and valuing their particular customs and ways of life. He learned how to bring to birth and nurture God’s life in the faces of everyone he met; he made them his brothers and sisters. Junípero sought to defend the dignity of the native community, to protect it from those who had mistreated and abused it.”

On September 17 2017, His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited The Carmel Mission. The plaque commemorating his visit lays in the Bethlehem Chapel at the Mission where his Holiness spent time during his visit in personal prayer.

In His address about Father Junípero Serra, His Holiness Pope Francis said:

"and much to be envied are those who can give their lives for something greater than themselves in loving service to others...."

Whatever one's faith or beliefs, these profound words about Father Junípero Serrano beautifully and distinctly describe this humble man who gave his all for what he believed in.

Today the Carmel Mission is an active parish. You can learn more here.

If you'd like to visit, both the Basilica and Museum are open to the public:

Monday & Tuesday, CLOSED
Wednesday & Thursday 10:00 – 4:00 pm
Friday & Saturday 10:00 – 5:00 pm
Sunday 11:30 – 5:00 pm

Admission Rates
Adults: $13      Seniors (62+): $10      Youths (7-17): $7      Child (6 and under): FREE

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The Spread Eagle Hotel can be found in the pretty market town of Midhurst, West Sussex, in the heart of the beautiful South Downs, just over an hour south of London. Steeped in history, it is one of the oldest buildings in the region, boasting original medieval lattice windows, exposed oak beams, ancient doorways, equisite tapestries, undulating floors and inglenook fireplaces large enough to sit in next to squashy sofas and an inviting bar! Dine in the room which once hosted medieval Lords, sleep where a Tudor Queen once rested her head or just sit and sip something delicious in the place where Nazi leaders once conspired. The Spread Eagle oozes ambience from every crook and cranny, safely guarding centuries of history, an atmospheric and charming place to visit whether it be to sip, dine, stay or if you have time, all three!

Dating back to 1430, The Spread Eagle was built on the foundations of an early medieval building, next to the estates of the local Knights of St John. Following the growth of a new merchant class during the Tudor period, after 1650, as the need for travel accommodation increased, the inn underwent extensive improvements. Eventually The Spread Eagle became an important stage coach inn on the route between the docks at Portsmouth and London.

Over the centuries further renovations have been completed each being careful to preserve the hotel's delightful historical character. You can dine today right next to this tremendous inglenook fireplace!

The Christmas puddings dangling above the fireplace hang there all year ready for guests to enjoy for their annual Christmas lunch!

Cowdray House

The story of The Spread Eagle has close connections to the nearby ruins of Cowdray House, constructed by Sir David Owen, the illegitimate son of the Tudor dynasty’s founder Owen Tudor. Sir David inherited the estate through marriage into the de Bohun family and his role in placing Henry Tudor on the English throne meant that Cowdray became an estate of immense importance. Cowdray attracted many distinguished guests some of whom stayed at The Spread Eagle Hotel.

Guests at The Spread Eagle

Other famous guests to the hotel include Queen Elizabeth I, you can still stay in the room where she slept! Also Admiral Horatio Nelson with his mistress Emma and later, Prince Charles, H.G. Wells  the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and my grandparents in the 1950's!

The link to the  'Spread Eagle' and the inn

The ‘Spread Eagle’ was a powerful symbol in European history. During the Middle Ages the German dominated Holy Roman Empire adopted it as its emblem which is maybe why the Knights of St John came to Midhust.

In July 1939, Hitler's Ambassador to England, Joachim Von Ribbentrop dined at The Spread Eagle with Hermann Goering and four other officers after attending the Goodwood Races. Before coming to The Spread Eagle, Goering had been visiting Leonardslee near Horsham, then the home of Lady Loder, and it is believed that he had selected this beautiful property to be his H.Q. after the invasion of England.

Here is Von Ribbentrop signature in the The Spread Eagle's guest book.

During the World War II American GI’s based at Cowdray House often came to The Spread Eagle. It is rumored that when they returned to Midhurst after the war they bought with them this Eagle taken from Hermann Goering’s office in the Reichstag, Berlin.

They donated it to the hotel to thank them for all the happy times spent there during World War II.

The Spread Eagle today

The Spread Eagle  Midhurst is now privately owned, one of three in a group of historic Sussex hotels, each one having their own fascinating story to tell.

Do stop off at The Spread Eagle should you be visiting this pretty corner of southern England, even if it's just for a drink, although I would suggest you find the time to spend longer!!

 The Spread Eagle Hotel, South Street, Midhurst, Gu29 9NH +44 (0)1730 816911

Click here to read more about other places to visit about an hour from London

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War; tragic and horrific.
Creating desolation, carnage and destruction.

Causing immense suffering, misery and loss,
destroying and changing lives forever.

Singapore during World War II was thought to be an impregnable fortress.
When it fell to Japan on February 15th 1942 it was probably Britain’s most humiliating defeat.

What followed were three and half years of hardship and cruelty.
No more so than at Changi .....

Entrance to Changi Museum and Chapel

A visit today to Changi Museum and Chapel is a solemn reminder of the evils of war. Most of the original gaol has been demolished, the museum and chapel remain to tell the story of what happened there after the Japanese capture of Singapore in 1942.

In 1942 Changi Gaol was a civilian prison on the Changi Peninsular, the British Army's military base in Singapore, part of which included a collection of military barracks. Once the Japanese took control these barracks were used as prisoner-of-war (POW) camps and eventually any references to anyone of these camps just became 'Changi'. Over 40,000 Allied troops were imprisoned here, mainly in the former Selarang Barracks. Most were then sent to work as slaves in Japanese occupied territories such as Sumatra, Burma, and the Burma-Thai railway. Thousands of civilians, mostly British and Australian, were imprisoned one mile away from Selarang in Changi Gaol. During the Japanese occupation in addition to the troops that were sent to Changi Gaol, over 3000 civilian men, 400 women and 66 children were incarcerated there, crammed together in terrible living conditions often tortured and beaten. The average living space per adult was 24 square feet, room barely enough to lie down. It became a living hell.

The original door way to Changi Gaol

Initially the Japanese seemed indifferent to what the prisoners did in Changi Gaol and the other POW camps. Concerts were organised along with quizzes and sporting events, although a meticulous military discipline was maintained.

Changi Gaol Artifacts

However, after Easter 1942, attitudes changed following a failed POW escape at the Selarang Camp. The Japanese demanded that everyone sign a document declaring that they would not attempt to escape. When this was refused over 15,000 POW’s were herded into a barrack square and told that they would remain there until the order was given to sign the document. When this failed a group of POW’s were shot. Despite this, no-one signed the document. Only when the Japanese refused to make much needed medicine available to the POW’s, was the order given to sign the document. It was a point of no-return for the POW’s who then became used for forced labour. The formula was simple – if you worked, you received food, if you did not, you would get no food.

Captivity

The shoes belonging to a POW who had been shot, left out to remind others not to disobey orders, rope used for torture

British POW's made small lamps using cigarette tins, collecting coconuts to make oil for the lamps.

There are many recollections from the POW's of how the local Chinese, including the elderly, would try to help them as they were marched through Singapore to work. Despite being beaten they would appear every day trying to give them morsels of food and drink.

By 1943, the 7,000 men left at Selarang Barracks were moved to Changi Gaol. The Changi Gaol had been built to hold about 600 people, with five or six to one-man cells this severe overcrowding, together with acute food and medicine shortages, meant death from malaria, dysentery and vitamin deficiencies became rife.

POW’s were made to dig tunnels and fox holes in the hills around Singapore as hideouts for the Japanese should the Allies return. Many POW’s believed they would then be killed; in fact when the Allies did recapture Singapore, the prison was simply handed over to them. After the war Changi Gaol, renamed Changi Prison, resumed its function as a civilian prison.

A piece of the original gaol wall

Stories from Changi Gaol

The Changi Quilts

The Changi quilts are a testament to the courage,  ingenuity and perseverance of the female Changi internees. The quilt making was initiated by Canadian, Ethel Mulvaney, to alleviate boredom and frustration. More importantly it was a way to communicate with the male internees, as all other communication was forbidden. Women were given six-inch squares of rice sack cloth to embroider her name. Sown together, under the pretext of a gift, the Quilts were handed over to the civilian men for the POW hospital. Knowledge of the women's well-being boosted the men's morale.

Changi Embroidery Cloths

This souvenir cloth is similar to a piece that British POW, Augusta M Cuthbe, had women internees embroider their names on.

St Luke's Chapel

In early 1942 Padre Fred Stallard, a chaplain in Roberts Hospital at Changi, obtained permission to convert a small room of Block 151 into a chapel. Built mainly be Australian prisoners this became St Luke’s Chapel.

The Chapel Altar Cloth

This 76cm2 piece of silk was used as the altar cloth in Changi Prison's St George's Chapel, during World War II. It fell into the hands of Singapore's then Chief Postmaster, Geoffrey Carl Allen. He died in England but when his wife heard about the worldwide 50th anniversary celebrations of World War II she donated it and 5 years later it was sent to Singapore when the Changi Chapel Museum was being redeveloped.

St Luke's Chapel Murals

The wall murals in St Luke's Chapel were painted by Stanley Warren who had been a commercial artist before the war. He had come to Changi Gaol hospital as a critically ill British POW and despite severe physical limitations was encouraged to paint murals on the chapel walls. Although paint was not readily available, with the aid of other prisoners, who unquestionably put themselves at risk, materials were gradually acquired. Crushed billiard cue chalk was used to produce blue. Warren began the first of the Changi Murals on 6 October 1942.

In August 1943 Robert Hospital was relocated to Selarang Barracks, and a new St Luke's Chapel was set up, the original chapel was eventually converted into a store used by both the Japanese and the RAF. The walls were painted over and the murals concealed. In 1958 an RAF serviceman detected traces of color on the walls, layers of distemper were scraped off and the murals were once again revealed but no one knew the identity of the artist. The RAF Changi Magazine, 'Tale Spin', published pictures of them in an attempt to locate the artist. At the same time a book entitled ‘Churches of Captivity in Malaya’ was found in the Far East Air Force Educational Library revealing the name of the painter. In January 1959 Stanley Warren was found, he was an arts master at Sir William Collins Secondary School in North London. He was asked to return to Singapore in the early 1960's to restore the murals.

Initially Stanley was very reluctant to return because of his horrific war time memories. However in December 1963, despite the great distress it caused him, Stanley went back. He became very dedicated to the restoration, returning to Changi again in July 1982 and May 1988, which was his final visit. He passed away in Bridport, England on 20 February 1992, his murals however remain a legacy forever.

In 1980 Changi Gaol was refurbished into a modern penal institution. By 2005 most of the original prison was demolished and a larger facility built. Today only a 180m stretch of the prison wall facing Upper Changi Road remains. The iconic main gate of the prison, two guard towers and the clock from the original clock tower have been preserved at the original site.

A visit to the Changi Museum and Chapel is distressing but very moving, a testament to the courage and determination of people bravely overcoming great adversity. It's well worth including on your itinerary whilst visiting Singapore.

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Driving south down California’s Interstate ‘5’, from San Francisco to Los Angeles, any time between mid July to mid September, you cannot fail to notice the caravan of northbound trucks hauling tomatoes in huge, white, open pallets. Where are they coming from and where are they headed? Why are the tomatoes not all carefully tissue wrapped in boxes, instead of being piled high and exposed to the elements? How do the not get ruined, especially the ones at the bottom which surely must be ground to a pulp? I decided to do some research and was astounded at what I discovered.

Central Valley produce and tomatoes!

Interstate '5', winds its way through California’s Central Valley, an abundant crop growing area, this much I knew but I never realized just the extent of this abundance. The Central Valley grows about 50% of America’ s fruit and nuts in addition to wheat, cotton and other crops. But the tomatoes!
13 million tones of tomatoes are grown here every year; it is a business worth about $1.5 billion annually! California produces between 90-95% of the processing tomatoes used in the United States and 1/3 of the world’s processed tomato products. During the summer a steady stream of trucks transport tomatoes north on Interstate '5', from areas like Yolo county, to plants close to Modesto, Lodi, Stockton and Sacramento in Northern California. Every day ½ million tones of tomatoes are processed in these northern Central Valley’s plants, producing goods such as canned tomatoes, pizza sauce, ketchup and salsa.

Canning tomatoes

These huge white bins trailing north, all contain canning tomatoes; they are small and have a thick skin which enables them to survive the harvesting and transporting process. They don't have to look pretty like the tomatoes we purchase in the grocery store. Those tomatoes have a thinner, more tender skin. They are generally hand picked and boxed before transport since the automated harvesting techniques would crush or bruise them.
The canning tomatoes are transported in open top bins, without a tarp to reduce the transportation loading times at both ends and also to maintain quality. Using a tarp would trap heat in the tubs, and potentially degrade the quality of the tomatoes. Also with some loads being picked in as little as 15 minutes, and a charge per load by the hauler, many growers try to get as many tomatoes in as few trailers as possible. This means filling them to the brim and a little over in order to save costs.

The Central Valley Project, providing water

So why is the Central Valley such a productive region? Up until the 1930’s this area was a bare desert.

However the soil here was very fertile soil and its wide temperature range of 90–100 degrees in the day, cooling down to a mild 60’s at night, made it a potentially ideal growing region, the only thing it lacked was water. In the 1940's the Central Valley Project (CVP) resolved the water issue, building dams such as Shasta, Friant and Folsom to divert water south to irrigate 3 million acres of farmland, one of the largest water systems in the world. This project has not been without controversy and has become a huge political issue. Without the water there would be no crops and what would chefs and consumers everywhere do without these tomatoes?!

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