After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

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The COVID pandemic has consumed us all. My heart goes out to those that have lost loved ones and the debt owed to our health care workers can never be repaid. Globally the world has been tipped on its axis. As it continues to spin it sometimes feels that it will never stop, will life ever return to normal?

For us, amongst other things, we have been disappointed not to be able to travel to Lourmarin. We’ve kept in touch with friends we’ve made there and just recently I heard from Susan and Towny in New Hampshire who like us have a long enduring love affair with Lourmarin. It was wonderful to hear from them but also very humbling as reading Susan’s email I realized that however frustrating and financially challenging the effects of COVID might be, compared to the life changing tragedy they’ve been forced to deal with our problems pale into insignificance.

Two years ago, unrelated to COVID, Susan and Towny lost their beautiful, vivacious, twenty-six-year old daughter Alex to a devastating little-known illness called PANDAS.

Susan and Towny lived with Alex in Lourmarin in 2002 and during that time made lifelong friends. It is actually because of Susan that we met our friend Walter, whose help with the purchase and renovation of our house was invaluable.

Three years ago our families spent a wonderful evening together in Lourmarin. Our lovely daughter Kate was with us. Two bright, bubbly young women of a similar age found they had much in common, a mutual love of Provence being one of them. We still have our Kate but Alex is gone......

It is impossible to recover from such terrible loss but Susan and Towny are an incredible inspiration. Determined that other people don’t have to endure their suffering and pain they have bravely committed themselves to educating people about PANDAS which if detected and diagnosed can be treated. By establishing The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund, and attending medical conventions they are committed to telling her story and with the help of dear friends in Lourmarin have begun a project, À Table! to help spread awareness.

There’s is a story of deep sorrow but it is also a thought provoking story of courage and a reminder of the goodness of people. It's one I asked Susan if I could share, to help raise awareness about this ugly disease which so cruelly stole their only child away from them.

Several of Susan and Towny's friends from Lourmarin have joined with them in the À Table! project to help. I know Gérard and Christine Isirdi, Gérard did a commission  for my friend which we are in!

Madeleine Premmereur of Château Barbebelle I’ve not met but I’m hoping to do so. And Hervé Giustiniani, the owner of De la cuisine Au 20 in Lourmarin, I don’t know personally, yet, but I know his smiling face and his delightful shop.

So how are they helping the À Table! project and what exactly is it?

Susan and Towny are dedicated wine connoisseurs, they author a wonderful blog Provencewinezine and decided to use their knowledge and passion for wine via the À Table! project as one of their ways to raise awareness about PANDAS.

As Susan wrote “….. we got the idea of using bottles of wine to spread the word about the deadly role of strep in causing neuropsychiatric symptoms. Many people know that strep infections can seriously affect the heart, kidneys, skin, and joints (e.g., rheumatic fever, scarlet fever, and even necrotizing fasciitis) but they don’t know how it can lead to very serious inflammatory conditions in the basal ganglia part of the brain. The label on the wine bottle and an attached booklet would contain information about strep and PANDAS (and a related condition called PANS)”.

Gérard is a renowned painter whose atelier is on the main street in Lourmarin.

His iconic scenes of village life and the Luberon are admired across the continents.

Gérard has designed the wine label

Madeleine Premmereur (née Herbeau), is the 4th generation of her family to manage the 16th century Château Barbebelle, one of the oldest estates in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, located in Rognes, near Aix-en Provence.

Madeleine, here with Susan, has supplied the vintages

Hervé, pictured here with Towny, is selling the wine in Lourmarin

Susan wondered if somehow I might have found my way to Lourmarin and be able to interview their dear friends to write this article. Sadly, like Susan and Towny we have not been able to get there. It will however be my first blog post when I return but for now I hope I can help in this tiny way to let you all know about the incredible work they are doing.

COVID has currently prevented them, for now, from moving their project forward in the way they’d hoped. Travel to Lourmarin from USA is almost impossible but Hervé has the wine for sale at De La Cuisine Au 20 Wine and Épicerie in Lourmarin.

From July 31st 2020 the wine has also been for sale in Susan’s local wine merchant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire at the South Street and Vine Wine and Cheese Shop.

As part of their awareness campaign Susan and Towny are asking everyone to raise their glasses (of Alex's wine or their favorite beverage, even tea or sparkling water) to Alex and every other person diagnosed with PANDAS with the promise that they will spread the word about this horrible disorder.  Please take a photo of the toast and send it to Susan at: susan@provencewinezine.com. She will post them all on Instagram (@TheAlexManfullMemorialFund) on Alex's birthday, September 7.

I wish Susan and Towny all the luck in the world. This is written with so much love and respect for them and the special people that are helping them from the beguiling little village in the Luberon that connects us all so profoundly, our enchanting village of Lourmarin.

To purchase the wine contact Susan: susan@provencewinezine.com

Contact Information:

Château Barbebelle
Route D 543, 13840 Rognes, France
Tel: (33) 4 42 50 22 12 Email: contact@barbebelle.com

Gérard Isirdi
Atelier Isirdi, 4 rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 4 90 08 50 96 Email: isirdi@wanadoo.fr

De La Cuisine Au 20
20 Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 9 53 96 96 61 Email: contact@delacuisineau20.com

South Street and Vine
359 Marcy St, Portsmouth, NH 03801            Tel: (603) 430-2984 Email: robin@southstreetandvine.com

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As we've spent increasing amounts of time in Lourmarin we've come to know more of the people in the village, all of whom have been warm and welcoming.  Like us, many of them are not originally from the area but similarly captivated by its' enchantment they have chosen to make it their home. Teresa Gaik, the owner of the beautiful linen, clothing, and interior store KOT, is one such person.

Born near Krakow, Poland, we first met four years ago in the Lourmarin market. Teresa collects antique linens, and as an extremely talented seamstress and crochetiere she transforms these vintage pieces into stunning throws, curtains, cushions and bags restoring and dying table cloths and napkins for a new generation to enjoy.

Teresa came to the south of France as a fairly young girl. She met her French husband just after High School whilst holidaying in Greece, he was from Marseille and enticed her to Provence. With an eye for interior decoration and floral artistry, once their three children were old enough Teresa began working for a floral and interior design shop in Aix-en-Provence. Accomplished and passionate about her work Teresa became responsible for three shops traveling and buying from all over Europe.

Seeking a change of direction, seven years ago Teresa decided to begin a new venture on her own. Working from home she started restoring old wood furniture and from her collection of antique linens she began sewing. Dying the linens with natural colours she bought vintage lace and using her considerable talents at crochet work transformed them into cushions, bags and curtains. She started selling her linens in the markets at Gordes, Lourmarin and Uzès taking on decorating projects for Weddings and other special events.

Like me, Teresa also fell in love with Uzès and seriously considered moving there. However, with her children living closer to the Luberon she opened her first shop, KOT, in Bonnieux, hoping at some point for an opportunity to move it to Lourmarin.

Within a year her patience was rewarded and in the early summer of 2018 Teresa re-opened KOT in Lourmarin. Within a few months she made a further move to a slightly larger premise, one that she’d actually fallen in love with five years earlier when she'd been asked to collaborate with an existing business. The actual shop had felt perfect but not wishing to partner with someone else, with some misgivings, she'd turned the opportunity down. Destiny had now intervened and for Teresa is felt like a dream come true, she moved her business to somewhere that truly felt perfect.

Situated on rue de la Juiverie this small area of Lourmarin was originally part of a small but vibrant Jewish community and the shop was once a tiny synagogue. Local Jewish women had come to the shop to collect water for purification from the tiny stream which ran beneath it. As a woman of faith this religious connection means a great deal to Teresa

Teresa is thrilled to now have her delightful daughter Olga involved in running the shop which frees up some of her time to devote to interior design commissions.

Set within a centuries old curved limestone cave type setting Teresa has already begun renovating the rear of this charming space. Oozing with ambience she will soon be offering design classes beginning with the creation of unique and beautiful Japanese lampshades taught by another equally talented French lady Teresa has come to know. I am looking forward to seeing their combined mastery at work knowing whatever Teresa turns her hand to will be not only beautiful but created with a thoughtful, loving hand.

Whether you want something stylish to wear or to decorate your home or a small gift of jewelry, you could do no better than to stop by Teresa’s delightful shop. And even if you walk away not having made a purchase you’ll return for you'll have met someone very special.

KOT ~ Teresa Gaik

Boutique rue de la Juiverie 84160 Lourmarin

+33 78192068 gaikt@msn.com

Instagram

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When Philippe Franc, the owner of La Maison FRANC first came to live in Pertuis, near Lourmarin, his neighbor welcomed him with a gift, a lavender wand or Coeur de Lavande.

It was a defining moment and the first step in a story which led to the opening of his exquisite shop in Lourmain, La Maison FRANC.

Having travelled the world as a Merchant Marine engineer, Philippe has extensive experience of different cultures and traditions and they've made a significant impression ~"People, places, tastes and smells are the things we remember." 

Philippe was touched by his neighbor's gift particularly as it was one of perfume, knowing that people everywhere understand the language of the scent. "It brings peace to offer someone a gift of welcome, it makes you feel a little better about your day.”

Coming from a family of artists, whose grandmother in the 1920’s worked for Haviland porcelain in Limoges, Philippe told me “I believe art and design have a great impact on humanity. I love to combine poetry with purpose." And so Philippe became involved in the art of creating the Coeur de Lavande.

Lavender in the Luberon, Provence

Lavender bushes have fanned their purple fronds along the arid ridges of Provence for centuries. The lavender wand's birthplace is in nature. Where the lavender grows, the elevation and orientation of the land, the purity and humidity of air and the nature of the soil defines its quality.

Philippe's lavender is farmed in the breathtaking Luberon hills above Apt about 35 minutes from Lourmarin. Philippe grows fine lavender and like other lavender associated businesses, a hybrid, lavendine. Grown at lower altitudes than lavender, around 500-700m, surrounded by trees and fields it is nurtured without pesticides.

Lavendine is a stronger plant than lavender with longer stems, each with two small branches. It produces more oil than lavender and also camphor, well know for its soothing massage properties. 40kg of flowers are need to provide one litre of essential lavendine oil.

La Maison FRANC’s farmers tend and harvest their lavendine with great expertise as if they're cultivating grapes for champagne or fine wine. Blooming at the end of June and harvested mid July to August, they ensure the lavender is not overexposed to the sun, cutting it when the stems are fresh and the seeds are full of their essential oil.

Making the Coeur de Lavande

To make the Coeur de Lavande it is important to get the best stems and when cutting to leave the seeds on the stem to optimize the fragrance.

Philippe showed me the basics of the wands' construction. It can take up to two months to properly learn the technique and perfect Philippe's exemplary standards.

Committed to quality and excellence La Maison FRANC only uses the finest of ribbons predominantly from the best producers in St. Etienne, France.

La Maison FRANC offers two shapes, as a standard, the wand and the boule both in a variety of sizes, priced according to the luxury of the ribbon. Click here for design details.

The story of Lavender

People have been using lavender medicinally for centuries. Both the Greeks and the Romans recognized its' healing properties and the Bible refers to it as 'spikenard' used to wash the feet of Jesus. Lavender began to be used medicinally in France in the 11th century, initially in Montpellier, 160km from Lourmarin. In England in the 16th century Queen Elizabeth I insisted on fresh lavender throughout her residences and in the 17th century it was used as a remedy for the Great Plague in London. During the Victorian era lavender became extremely popular both in gardens and perfumed products.

The story lavender as a perfume, often called the ‘blue gold’ by perfume manufacturers. really begins in Grasse, 200km from Lourmarin, in the Provencal hills above The French Riviera. In the 12th century, rather than perfume, Grasse was renown for it’s leather-tanning industry, especially its leather gloves coveted among the nobility of Europe. Soaked in urine to soften the leather the gloves smelt unpleasant until a local tanner created a leather scent of rose water and spices. When a pair of scented gloves were presented to Catherine de Medici she was enchanted and the rare scents from around Grasse, myrtle, jasmine, rose, orange blossom wild mimosa and of course lavender began to be captured and bottled. And so Grasse became established as the perfume capital of the world.

Future Dreams

Philippe currently has two workshops. Firmly believing in the essence of peace these perfumed gifts can bring he would love to open workshops in Israel to have Palestinian and Israeli women working alongside each other and one in Tasmania with Aborigines and Australians working together.

Involved in this business for over 13 years, Philippe is hoping to create similar products with amber and rose and is going to Oman to harvest frankincense to apply the same principals he’s used with lavender.

Already selling to numerous exclusive hotels and brands throughout the world Philippe opened La Maison FRANC in Lourmarin this summer. He is partnering with a jewelry shop in St Johns Wood, London and was leaving for Dubai as we spoke.

What could be more special than a present made of natural products which when squeezed releases the evocative fragrance of Provence?

The best lavender interwoven with beautiful ribbon distinguishes this exceptional gift, its beautiful scent expressing welcome, friendship & love. No wonder they are so often used for celebrations of both.

La Maison FRANC ships all over the world. There's still time to buy one of their lovely lavender boules to hang on your Christmas tree, they're so pretty and fragrant you should keep them out all year.

Visit Philippe's shop should you come to Lourmarin, he'll tell you his story far better than I!

La Maison FRANC  17-7 Rue Henri de Savornin, 84160 Lourmarin, France

www.franc1884.com

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It's raining today in Provence and after nearly a month of clear, blue skies and gentle, warm autumnal days, temperatures have plummeted signaling the beginnings of winter. No where, even Lourmarin, is as idyllic in the rain, or is it?

Perhaps enticed by the recently hung lights across the villages streets and the shops starting to become festooned with Christmas, with the clocks falling back this weekend, winter seems to have silently crept upon us. A low lying mist hangs over the hillsides, a mystical backdrop for the foliage's late autumnal palette of colors.

Sweaters, scarfs and umbrellas have been rooted out and fireside baskets replenished with logs ready for the approaching winter chill. Tears, from hours of relentless rain run down the drain pipes, the walls of shuttered buildings streaming as if they have head colds.

Meanwhile, my son 5000 miles away in San Francisco, reminds me that there daytime temperatures remain at a consistent 25 degrees and although the nights are drawing in winter is still a memory. Navigating the puddles along the grey twisty lanes, the vines beside me dripping like rows of forgotten washing, California seem very far away. With the weather forecast in Provence not that promising, has this special corner of the world lost its allure?

You probably know what I am going to say. For me the sensory splendor never diminishes here and despite the rain and cloudier skies it remains a beguiling delight to explore and be a part of the world.

Walking and hiking

The leaves are turning to shades of deep umber and gold and on long meandering walks the natural beauty is a visual joy. 

Wine tasting

The vendage (grape harvest) is complete but the wine domains are still open from which to sample.

Exploring local villages

During winter in Provence, popular villages like Roussillon are more serene without the  jostling tourists.

The sunflowers might long ago have ceased to dance but everywhere there are shutters to catch the eye!

Markets during winter in Provence

The market stalls have thinned out but so have the visitors so its easier to get around and there's still plenty of bounty to entice.

Olives

Nougat

Winter vegetables

Cèpes Porcini, one of the tastiest wild mushrooms one of many varieties available just before winter in Provence.

Christmas markets

Christmas Marchés de Noël  everywhere, they're about to start!

Restaurants

Restaurant reservations are easier to secure, especially those sought after el fresco spots, so hard to get during busier times!

And just being here, however simple...

remains intoxicating, particularly here ~ 'A Good Year's' Château Canorgue!

And especially here in Lourmarin,

my fairy tale village.

Looking to rent a house, rent ours!  Maison des Cerises a village house in the heart of Lourmarin.

The post Lourmarin, what to do as winter approaches in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Lourmarin is ready for Fête de Noël. Frosty white fir trees have appeared along our petite rue below a canopy of lights.

Throughout the village, once night has fallen, these fine strings of twinkle line the streets in rows of sparkling ribbons.

The stores are full of Christmas treasures and stay open later to help the busy shoppers.

Amongst ancient, stone buildings, along narrow, cobbled streets, somehow everything appears just that bit more entrancing.

Enticing seasonal settings

to celebrate the time of year.

Opening the shutters to find the world transformed by a soft, powdery, icing sugar dusting of snow completed the enchantment.

Bundled in up in scarves and mittens I tried to encapsulate my fairy tale village adorned in a winter gown.

Almost expecting  'Mr Tumnus' to be hiding behind the lamp posts

and from the church, the sweet voices of children in the village choir. It felt as if Lourmarin was preparing for her very own Christmas story.

For as we ventured out, driving only a short distance, the snow seemed to have only fallen on Lourmarin. Beautiful elsewhere but not quiet as magical.

The streets of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence were lined with les sapins; fir trees adorned with satin, bows and bells.

The shop windows were bedecked in seasonal finery, both in Saint-Rémy

and Uzès.

Our lovely Rue de la Grande Bourgade, where we'd once lived in Uzès, looking more festive than any other.

A truly special part of the world at any time of year and one which was hard to tear ourselves away from.

Packing our suitcases we prepared ourselves for our journey home. No deserted stables or donkeys but crowded airport terminals and rental cars; no reindeer driven sleighs but enormous metal birds quite equally miraculous to transport us back across the skies. We're returning to our other home, briefly pausing in that treasured place where we are from before taking off again to a very different place but also a very special one. This English girl in love with Provence is finally going 'home', 'home' for the Holidays..........

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Don't you ever wonder when you ask your friends how they are and they always say ‘wonderful’? Really, always wonderful, no-one's life is wonderful all of the time, is it? I know I’m a sharer, I write a blog after all and admittedly I mostly write about all that’s wonderful, who wants to read anything else? So you might want to stop reading now because sorry, I’m about to defer from that norm! I hinted in my last post that renovating our house has had its trials. We’ve had the usual issues of workmen not turning up, supplies not being ordered and ‘interesting’ situations when walls are found to not be straight; really ‘quelle surprise’, an 18th century house in Provence with wonky walls?

Of course the solution to most things is always a bigger bill, and as your Euros go flying out the window your enthusiasm begins to wither. You try not to count the delays and how much more it is costing and then finally pushing the workmen out the door you move in knowing there are a few things to resolve but really hardly anything ……

That was over two weeks ago, seventeen days of not that much being wonderful at all! It started with the new American fridge. Yes it’s big, but before we bought it we'd checked with the builder that it would go up the curving staircase to the kitchen (by the terrace) and ‘quelle surprise’ it didn’t!

A crane was ordered to haul it in from the street below and a further 350 euros flew from our wallet. Okay, we gritted our teeth, we’d have our ice for those G&T’s and a chiller for all that rosé, it was just one of those things but the fridge decided otherwise. You know when the smoke detector is low on batteries and beeps every three seconds, always in the middle of the night which somehow amplifies the sound 100th fold? Yes that’s the sound our Samsung decided to emulate, cheerily flashing a continuous blue light announcing the door was open and then promptly turning itself off. The appliance shop shrugged because we have ‘the petite probleme’ who is going to pay to crane it out and crane a new one back in?

Wonderful? Non! But what are you going to do? On that particular day, we did what most Brits do, we went to make a cuppa. Ok so we hadn’t yet bought a kettle but we’re resourceful, we can boil water in a saucepan, can’t we? I pressed all the buttons on my brand new ceramic cooking hob, I pressed them again a tad more firmly, I reached for the instructions, I wasn’t doing anything wrong but 'NON' nothing, rien, it was dead! Dead on arrival or never connected? And now with the oven below already in situ how would it be possible to reach the electrical supply? The tea was forgotten as we checked the oven, only it was locked and with the instructions inside there was no way of knowing how to unlock it!

Frustrated and irritable, we stopped our snarling, especially at each other and decided to order pizza and relax by the fireplace with a nice local vintage. We nearly found ourselves with unexpected guests, the local Pompiers, to be precise, for within minutes black smoke was billowing into the room swirling menacingly around the newly painted cream walls. In a flurry of opening windows (mostly stuck because they had just been painted) and grabbing of towels to screeches of ‘be careful with my new White Company towels’  the by now, red hot chain (we’d wondered what that was) hanging below the hearth was yanked and miraculously a flap on the chimney top was released. So the firemen didn’t come for pizza, which was just as well as by then it was cold, but what's wrong with cold pizza, we opened another bottle of wine (for medicinal purposes) and determined to enjoy our now happily roaring fire and watch TV.

Well not the TV exactly because that also didn’t actually work yet, 'un autre petit problème', but the remote had a Netflix button so we’d be able to watch something, wouldn't we? Retrieving the remote from its plastic wrapping we stared at it miserably. It was not the one we’d seen demonstrated, the one we'd specifically selected for its roller ball mouse so one doesn’t have to annoyingly type in every letter on a key board……….Okaaaaay perspective is everything, we could return the two day old remote, we had the receipt, didn't we? NON, vanished! Nowhere to be seen, not in the files with all the other carefully saved receipts or in the suitcases or in the brief cases or under the bed or in the drawers or in the bin no, nowhere, gone completely!!!!!!

So finally to bed, we did at least have a bed, just! Our brand new beds, paid for months ago, had also been a trial for when asking to have them delivered we were been told  ‘NON, ce n'est pas possible! The beds are in the quarantine, they have the flies as do all new beds in France, they have been returned to Holland from whence they’d come.’  Yes, something was lost in translation, we hope! Suffice to say the two beds had arrived but sadly without their legs 'un autre petit problème!' Clad with socks and scarves because its November and the Mistral was blowing and we had no heating because of the plumber, we pulled the duvet over our heads.....

Of course we got the cooking top working, unlocked the oven, the smoke damage was non existent, we have changed the remote and the fridge is no longer talking to us. The integral dishwasher has got over its non-opening issues, the drier finally seems to be actually drying things, and the bucket from underneath the sink has been removed from where it was dripping water. But the other plumbing issues  are unresolved, leaking radiators, missing parts and worse of all scratches on the new travertine floors where the plumber 'tried' and failed to correctly install the loos. Thank goodness for Walter and our builder who are helping us. Suffice to say, 'ce n'est pas une surprise', we will not be recommending the plumber.

I have to admit, when I opened the shutters yesterday morning, even though the biting wind had subsided and the sun was shining I did wonder, had we made a horrible mistake?

Despondently I walked to the bakery for croissants and a baguette, (another pleasure we’d mistakenly been denying ourselves, ‘cos you know you’re not meant to be eating carbs….) and in the three minutes or so that it took to get to the boulangerie, down the cobbled street, passing the golden, shuttered windowed buildings,

through the square, where even early on a Sunday, people were sipping their cafés, I remembered why we'd bought our house in Lourmarin.

By the time I had done the return walk back to my little house I felt as if my fairy tale village had pulled out all the stops to reassure me. Yes we'd had some hiccups, all eventually resolvable and in the whole scheme of life, very trivial, ‘first world’ problems....

‘Caroleeene..' my little village seemed to be whispering to me ‘ne t'inquiète pas, ce n'est pas un problème, tout ira bien’. It’s so true, 'don’t worry, it isn’t a problem, all will be well.'

So how’s your week going, you know it’s ok to say 'actually it’s been a total pain!

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There is a line in a wonderful story I love, Rebecca, by Daphne du Maurier:'Last night I dreamt I went to Manderley again'. People often dream about places which caused their emotions to become heightened, sometimes it’s not a good thing and sometimes it’s quite wonderful…...

A few nights ago I dreamt of what I cannot say but that morning, I had that warm, luxurious feeling
of waking up and remembering that this was going to be a special day, that I was going somewhere special. True it was my birthday and for the first time in several months I was waking up at home, in England. But surprisingly neither of those things were what had my pulse racing, I was going on a journey, yes, yet another plane ride…..

So after 2 days in what has got to be the city of all city’s, New York, where there is so much happening why was I so happy to be going somewhere so stratospherically different where quite honestly not that much is happening! Enduring two flights, half a night of snatched sleep, time changes and unpacked and repacked suitcases I was still excited. Thrilled to be going somewhere with comparatively scant dining and retail choices, just a handful of ‘sites’, albeit beautiful........

A place with difficult parking and if I'm honest quite a few inconveniences, well compared to where I'f just been. So one has to wonder, why exactly do I love this certain somewhere so much?

I was going to a place that makes me truly happy for after all isn't that's what’s really important, to be able to do the things which truly fill your heart with joy?

You’ve probably guessed already and I don’t need to expound upon the cobblestones, all quite wet and slippery, the shutters, mostly closed,

or even the sunflowers, wrong time of year; and I've told you about those many times before.

What I will I tell you however is that for such a tiny place Lourmarin has a surprising number of real estate agents and I had an appointment with one of them!

I'll tell you more next time..... à bientôt!

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

The post Last night I dreamt of...... a special place appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Tucked away on one of its tiny streets, is a small jewelry shop in Lourmarin; not just any jewelry shop selling things which might be found elsewhere, but Mizso; owned by the delightful and talented Valerie. It is packed full of her beautiful, handmade treasures; création bijoux.

Valerie began her career in television, far away from Provence in Paris but she always knew that her creative spirit was calling. It led her to design unusual pieces of furniture, gluing thin cord into intricate designs, which she still uses today in her shop.

Never feeling entirely comfortable living within a city, even one as beguiling as Paris and enticed by the warmth and alluring light of the south, Valerie moved with her husband and two sons to Provence. Intrigued by a handmade ring she had purchased, one that she successfully recreated when it broke and anxious to be rid of her constantly sticky fingers, Valerie decided to start designing her own line of jewelry. Not long after that she opened her first shop in Aix-en-Provence.

Valerie then fell in love, like many of us, with the charming and captivating village of Lourmarin, she knew instantly that this is where she wanted to stay. It took sometime to find the right premise, for after all why would anyone want to leave, but five years later Valerie and Mizso opened her jewelry shop in Lourmarin at 1 rue du temple in the heart of the village.

When you step across the threshold of this delightful little shop it is easy to see why Valerie is now the proud owner of such a thriving business.

Valerie’s designs are unique and beautiful, everything is individually designed and carefully strung together, the attention to detail is exemplary. Valerie is always happy to customize and offers a wide range of colours and materials.

Maybe you need a special gift or something to spoil yourself, stop by at this very special jewelry shop in Lourmarin, Mizso ~1 rue du temple 84160 Lourmarin and talk to Valerie, (she speaks perfect English!) and she will be only too happy to create it for you!

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Lourmarin in autumn; the intensity of the sun has faded but it still has some warmth. The crowds have receded but the region's vibrancy has not diminished. The vendage is almost complete and the air is perfumed with the heady scent of grapes and woodsmoke. The golden shades of autumn sweep a paintbrush of crimson and ochre flames across the landscape. It's a beautiful time of year to be here but actually it's always a beautiful time of year here.....

Sun hats have been replaced by softly flowing scarves but the beguiling atmosphere along the streets of Lourmarin in autumn still entices.

The pace is still bustling, especially at the weekends and there is always lots to see and do. Restaurant reservations are easier to secure.

Parking on market daysalong the streets of Lourmarin in autumn is 'pas de problème' and there are still so many temptations!! Delicious fromage,

Flowers, lots of flowers, including sunflowers, of course!

Local vegetables,

and as you would expect, your choice of brightly coloured Provencal baskets.

So many stunning, vibrant French linens that it will be hard to  buy only one!

For the whole month of October in Lourmarin in autumn, Lourmarin celebrates its local artists, profiling their incredible collection of talent, hosting visitors with wine and canapes.

and a series of lectures within the mystical atmosphere of the caves of the chateau.

Gazing across the vineyards, as the late afternoon sun's golden rays bathe the creamy stone walls of Lourmarin in autumn, my heart skips a beat.

The clock tower reminds me of the time of day and I drag myself away from the captivating view to wander back through the village.

This truly is a magical place, my special place, click on all the links to remind yourself exactly what I mean.....

WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN LOURMARIN

WHERE TO STAY IN LOURMARIN

WHERE TO EAT IN LOURMARIN

The post Provence's spell binding village of Lourmarin in autumn appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.