Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

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If you get the chance to go to L'Isle sur la Sorgue do visit the stunning candied fruit shop of Lilamand Confiseur. The little sister to the one in Saint-Rémy de Provence, where the business was founded by Marius Lilamand in 1866 but just as enticing!

A family owned business, five generations after it's first production, today's owner, Pierre Lilamand, applies the same recipes used by Nostradamus and Olivier de Serres from over four centuries earlier.

Despite considerable diversification, candied fruits, the original staple remains their speciality. Carefully selected from an abundance of locally grown provencal fruits, several of which are quite rare varieties, expert hands transform them into shiny jewels, helping to preserve these unique varietals.

Beautifully displayed in their shops

with many carefully pre-wrapped, mouthwatering selections.

Alongside his wife Sophie, Pierre has expanded the business considerably. Today they now offer an extensive choice of delicious syrup and confitures.

In 2009 they also opened a new workshop dedicated to calisson production, small almond paste artisan candies, famous all over Provence. In 2016 they planted 2000 almond trees in the hills of Les Alpilles to ensure their calissons are the very best possible.

Dedicated to quality and the highest of standards their two beautiful shops in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Isle-sur-Sorgue are a shining tribute to their values.;

 “they reflect our history, rich in history, know-how and tradition handed down since 5 generations…… spreading the values of Provence, …. to transmit truth and to provide a moment of joy.”

Lilamand Confiseur can be found at:

13 Rue de la République, 84800 L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, France

5 Avenue Albert Schweitzer, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

20 Rue de la Commune, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

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Over the last 30 years L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has become known all over France for its antiques. This picturesque little town has over 250 antique, art and decoration shops offering an extensive array of treasures from amongst its incredible collections. I told you last time how on Sundays, in addition to its traditional Provencal market an antiques market can be found strung between the main street and the river side. But also, twice a year, in April and August the entire town is transformed into a huge antique collectors market.

This April we spent a delightful day at the Foire Internationale Brocante & Antiquités browsing through the treasures.

Over 200 stalls ribbon their way by the quayside of the Sorgue and through the streets.

Experts are on hand with advice about the origins and authenticity of items for sale, it is an antiques extravaganza not to be missed!

Gautier Park becomes a stunning antiquarian village.

Exhibitors from across France and Europe offer their finest goods;

antiques, secondhand goods, old books, contemporary art, design & decoration pieces.

Just 25 km east of Avignon, between Carpentras and Cavaillon, even if you're not into shopping for antiques or strolling through markets, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue should be part of every itinerary for this part of Provence.

Abundant with history, wander the narrow ancient streets, and watery fringes resplendent with bright foliage where its waterwheels and little bridges will charm and delight.

The next faire will be August 15 – 18 2019

Sadly I won't be able to make it but if you do I'd love to hear what you found!

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Sunday morning is market day in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Known throughout Europe for its astounding array of antique shops, alongside its' conventional Provencal market, this charming town also hosts an incredible Sunday Antiques market too. Just 39km from Lourmarin, the pretty drive through the Luberon Valley takes about 40 minutes. Leave early as parking can be a challenge especially in the height of summer and don't forget, like most markets in Provence, everything will start packing up by around 1pm. Remember lunch is very important in France!

Often described as the Venice of Provence, the market stretches along the canal side. It's fun to take your time and browse, you never know what you might find.

There is always an abundance of vintage treasures to discover,

some more unique than others.

Of course not everyone comes to shop .....

There's also the local park to explore ~ Parc Municipal Gautier

The main Provencal market meanders its way through the medieval streets and there are numerous waterside dining spots to watch the water rush its way over the weir.

Maison Jouvaud

Our favourite spot for a coffee or light lunch is Maison Jouvaud, they serve the most delicious pastries, sweet and savoury, home-made soups, sandwiches and salads. Spoil yourself and choose something to take home, they have a mouth watering array of meringues, chocolate, gateaux, candies and breads. There'a also a lovely gift shop and sister patisseries in nearby Carpentras, Avignon and not quite so near Tokyo!

Maison Jouvaud 5 Avenue des 4 Otages, 84800 Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, open 7 days a week 10am -7pm

Next time I'll tell you about the antiques fairs held here twice a year!

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Many people dream of owning a winery; a romantic illusion of strolling through carefully tended vines sharing your vintages within the shadows of a sprawling château, which for me would have to be in Provence. Of course dreams like this seldom come true, such a highly competitive, risky venture would require a fairly hefty dose of courage not to mention immense commitment and hard toil. A ‘little bit’ of money would help and a great deal of skill and knowledge. But it surely begins with a dream, a passion to follow your heart, along with a resolute but gentle sprinkling of determination to do so.

The Bagnis family

This is the story of the Bagnis family from Marseille; Daniel a pharmacist, his lovely wife Anne-Marie, whose family for three generations have been involved in the distribution of exotic fruits and their daughters Mathilde and Camille. The Bagnis had such a dream, a dream to own a wine domain in Provence. Minutes from Lourmarin, I was fortunate to get to know a little of their story and how they have dedicated themselves to making their dream come true.

The family's initial step was for Anne-Marie to complete three years of study at Lycee Agricole de Gardanne learning about viticulture and the marketing and exporting of wine. With Camille having also finished her business and master’s degrees the family began their search for the right property. Having first considered the Eastern Appellation in the Var they realised that they preferred the more traditional charms of the Luberon.

Looking for about 15-20 hectares, as Anne Marie told me “not too small to be limited but not too large to become complicated”, it also had to have a beautiful ‘house’, one that exuded charm and character. Having visited about ten properties they came to the stunning 18th century Le Château Constantin about a kilometer from Lourmarin.

Le Château Constantin

A glorious 18th château surrounded by olive groves and oak forests nestled by the river L’Aigue Brun whose century old deposits of limestone had created a terroir similar to that at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, about 80km to the north-west. Believed to be a former Roman site where Emperor Constantin took the natural waters, the 3 fountains on the property bare testament to this legacy, one of them being the symbol of Le Château Constantin wines.

It is not hard to understand what captivated the Bagnis family and in 2016 it became theirs, the dream was coming true and the work began.

Originally a farm, Le Château Constantin had been producing wine for about 40 years. The Bagnis' purchased it from William Chase, a distiller from England. However it had been its previous owner, Allen Chevalier, who had been responsible for establishing both the name and reputation of Le Château Constantin, and who from 1990 -2011 had produced some of the most esteemed vintages in the AOC Luberon.

The terroir

Embarking on this exciting but enormous venture, the Bagnis asked Chevalier’s vintner to return to work for them. The production under Chase has been about 90% rose but believing the limestone carpeted terroir could produce excellent red and white wines they took the focus in a different direction.

That was two years ago, today 60% of the estate is Syrah and Grenache for red wine and unusually for the Luberon, Cabernet Sauvignon. 20% is planted with Vermentino and Viognier for white wine and also not typical in this region, Chardonnay. Mature Mourvèdre vines have also been planted which will yield its first crop within 3 years. From the Mourvèdre the Bagnis hope to produce a sophisticated, complex red wine suitable for laying down for 10 -15 years.

Currently, by fermenting the grapes in both new and old oak barrels for about 12 months, the château is yielding more fruity wines best consumed within 3 years. Some of their wine is also fermented in concrete and very unusually in terra cotta barrels bought by Chase for his rosé production.

Used in Greece and Italy for centuries the fermenting process in the terra cotta barrels is more complicated as the terra cotta is very porous and changes the complexity of the wine. But as I will explain it produces a wine with excellent minerals much quicker than wood or metal barrels. In the terra cotta white wine can ferment within as little as 4 months.

The wines of Le Château Constantin

Cuvée Tradition AOP Luberon

White wine ~ A subtle suggestion of exotic fruits and citrus. Vermentino and Viognier grapes, pairs beautifully with bouillabaisse or grilled sea bass.

Red wine ~ A deep red coloured, expressive wine with notes of blackberry, cherry and cranberry embellished by sweet spices. 10% Syrah and 90% Grenache grapes, excellent with red meat and spicy food.

Rosé wine ~ A fresh and delicate pale rosé with aromas of strawberry, gooseberry and a subtle suggestion of lemon. Syrah, Grenache and Vermentino grapes, delicious with poultry, lightly spiced curries and citrus deserts.

Cuvée Premium AOP Luberon Rosé

An elegant fresh rosé with notes of nectarine, apricot and strawberry and touches of citrus. Similar to the Cuvée Tradition Rosé it is a perfect accompaniment for lightly spiced dishes and desserts. Cuvée Tradition White will be available in May 2018.

Amphore by Constantin – PGI Mediterranee White

Aged in the terra cotta barrels, (which in French translates as amphoras, hence cuvée amphore), this pale gold, rounded wine has notes of white peach and pear with slight floral and mineral touches. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Viognier grapes, Amphore pairs beautifully with sashimi, richer meat dishes and local goat's cheese.

Committed to becoming organic

Already using organic/bio methods with fewer sulfites, by next year all the château's wines will be labeled bio. It takes 3 years of bio production to be able to say that you are a bio producer.

The market

The Bagnis’ goal is to produce a high quality mid priced boutique wine. In my humble opinion they have already more than exceeded that goal! Currently they are selling directly at the domain itself, at local Lourmarin restaurants No 9, Le Moulin, Auberge La Fenière, in Lourmarin’s 'Cave du Château' and theepicerie 'Super Taf 2' and also in restaurants and small boutique shops in Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.

The château

Part of the dream was to also own a beautiful château. One that would be a home but one that could also be rented for large family gatherings and Weddings.

The main part of the château is already available with 2 kitchens, 2 elegant living rooms, a dining room, a large shaded patio and stunning pool, 4 stylish en-suite bedrooms and a further 3 en-suites currently being restored. Set amongst the vines of a working domaine this is a stunning setting for any family get together. During such times the Bagnis' would live in the newly converted pied-a-terre above the tastefully restored tasting room.

If you are interested contact the Bagnis here.

Weddings at the château

Their first Wedding will be this July, the ceremony in the grounds and the reception by the pool. In such an enchanted setting it cannot fail to be anything other than romantically breathtaking!

The next phase of this project will be the conversion of their very grand Pigeonnier into a summer kitchen.

Not only did I have the pleasure of meeting Daniel and Anne Marie but also their delightful daughter Camille. Sadly I did not have the opportunity to meet Mathilde, a nurse in Marseille who comes often to the château to help out. Camille, like her mother is both charming and already impressively knowledgeable and I am sure invaluable to the realisation of this exciting family venture.

Standing with Camille admiring chateau’s sprawling vineyards and watching her father laboring with his team I can only imagine the effort but also the wonder and joy of being part of such an incredible undertaking.

I wish them every success and look forward to getting to know them better, to get to drink more of their delicious wine and watch their story unfold.

Château Constantin D139 Route du Jas de Puyvert 84160 LOURMARIN

Tel. : +33(0)4 90 68 38 99  chateau.constantin@gmail.com

www.chateau-constantin.fr

Directions

Château Constantin can be found on the  D139 just outside Lourmarin. From the village take the D27 towards Lauris. After you have passed the view of the village on your right take the fork on the left, the D139.Château Constantin is on the left with parking on the right opposite.

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It's December in Provence, snow has already sprinkled its magic across the villages and as the nights draw in and daylights fades each day, a bitter chill drapes itself like a frozen mantle across the dark golden, sprawling vineyards.

Everywhere Christmas preparations abound as people ready themselves for le Fête Noël and all the traditions of  the season. In the larger cities wooden chalets straight from a German Christmas story pepper the streets and each weekend, scattered throughout the region, the villages play host to Christmas markets, Marchés de Noël 

Marchés de Noël of Aix-en-Provence

From the end of November the Cours Mirabeau, in beautiful Aix-en-Provence, is strung with a line of wooden chalets, each one offering the bounties of Provence for Christmas.

Gifts of Lavender

Lavender of course, is one of the jewels of the Provence terroir. In June vast rows of previously sleeping little hedgehogs (well that's what they look like to me!) are transformed into stunning bushes of wafting fragrance gently scenting the air with their special perfume. By November those delicate blooms have been neatly wrapped and packaged ready to stuff  Christmas stockings!

Calissons d'Aix

Calissons d'Aix, come from the almonds grown all over Provence and most especially around Aix-en-Provence. References to Calissons can be found as far back as the late fifteenth century, they are still produced today from an ancestral recipe; a mixture of finely ground almonds, melon de Provence and candied orange peel, all drawn on a wafer bed covered with a royal icing setting, délicieux!

Santons

Centrally positioned among the gifts of Calissons is a santon. Santons are small, hand-painted terracotta nativity scene figurines produced in Provence. They were originally created by an artisan from Marseilles, Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822) during the French Revolution. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene would be made up of 55 Santons depicting the different characters of a Provencal village, the scissors grinder, the fishwife, the blind man, and the chestnut seller. It is not certain how many such artisans still exist today but the Santons remain a very big part of Christmas in Provence.

Olive wood

A collection of gifts from another bounty of the local terroir, the olive tree!

Candle holders

Cakes and patisseries

Perhaps in preparation for the traditional Provencal 13 desserts of Christmas, an age old custom after Gros Souper, (the equivalent of Christmas dinner) representing Jesus and the 12 apostles.

The 13 deserts normally include a Fougasse (an olive oil flatbread), a Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), a platter of fresh fruit, a fig stuffed with walnuts, dates and white nougat. Different regions have their own variations for what is offered; in Apt, preserved fruit is normally served, in Aix-en-Provençe Calissons, in Marseille Navettes and Croquants, in Nice almond pastes, in the Alps of Haute-Provençe the Bugnes and everywhere the Bûche de Noël!

Chocolate

But there was nothing ordinary about the chocolate at this stall at Aix's Marché de Noël. Each gift piece was a work of art, a masterpiece of every theme imaginable!

A chocolate medical kit!

A chocolate platter

Incroyable!

Marchés de Noël around Provence

The Marchés de Noël are held in local schools or town halls and sometimes in the enchanted setting of a local winery such as Château Val Joanis just a ten minute drive from Lourmarin. I have to admit we didn't find too much to buy apart from their divine wine! It's lucky our little maison de village has a cellar!

Château Val Joanis is nestled at the foot of the Grand Luberon mountain, minutes from Pertuis and close to Lourmarin. This stunning, 400 hectares estate sits on the site of an ancient roman villa and the château originally belonged to Jean of Joanis, secretary to King Louis III of Naples.

As part of the Marché de Noël, in addition to wine, there were all sorts of tempting offerings, gourmet vinegars, olives, preserves and other gifts.

The wine itself was too tempting to resist. Powerful and elegant reds, a rosé of Syrah and Grenache which now is our local favourite and a fresh, crisp, white composed mostly of Viognier, Roussanne and white Grenache, magnifique!

Outside there were pony rides and walks around the château's beautiful gardens which we will be returning to in warmer weather. There was also this wonderful children's book stall, aptly named for just like Château Val Joanis  it was supercalifragilisticexpialidcocious! 

Joyeux Noel everyone from Provence, enjoy your Christmas shopping!!

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I always love to discover a new village in the Luberon. On an previous trip we had eaten in the delightful and delicious, family run restaurant and hotel, L'Auberge des Tilleuls which sits at the bottom of the tiny village of Grambois. This time we returned to explore Grambois itself, a pretty, country drive 24km east of Lourmarin. It's a picturesque spot whose cobblestone streets wind between the walls of ancient houses. Tranquil and lacking the bustle and commercialism of some its neighbours it's easy to loose yourself along its narrow, vaulted passages and become immersed in a bygone era of medieval knights and romance.

On Saturdays the central square hosts the village's market. When we strolled though it, it was deserted with just the sound of the pretty stone fountain chuckling good-naturedly to itself. Beside the square lies the Gothic-Romanesque Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir church, topped by its original 12th century tower and 19th century campanile.

In the 14th century, Grambois was one of Provence's twelve fortresses which explains its rich heritage. Walking the town today you'll pass by the door of the ramparts and the passage-way "de templiers" with its ornate windows and the beautiful nobles' residence built on the foundations of a 9th century chateau, now privately owned.

Pretty doorways such as this pepper Grambois' meandering alleyways.

Well trodden and crumbling stone steps lead enticingly to the entrances of its Renaissance properties,

many of which make up the walls of the village and have stood for centuries within its enfold.

Built on a promontory, like a fortress, Grambois overlooks the resplendent valley of Aigues. Lush with vineyards, fruit trees and Provencal crops it stretches across the horizon beyond the Luberon hills.

I would highly recommend Grambois restaurant L’Auberge des  Tilleuls  

Dine in its pretty garden at lunchtime or in its charming dining room in the evening.

Download the PDF travel guide for Lourmarin and the surrounding area here

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I am often asked if I could help to plan a stay in Lourmarin, so voilà! This itinerary would work from any of the nearby Luberon villages, I've planned it round my favourite market days, listed below. But don't rush around too much, allow yourself to simply ‘be’ ~ to enjoy just being there, immersing yourself in the captivating ambience of this intoxicating part of the world! And don't forget if you need a place to stay I have a village house right in the middle of the village, do get in touch if you're interested in learning more.

SUNDAY

Maybe a day to stay home, explore the village, discover the story of the Lourmarin chateau.Perhaps take a drive around the immediate vicinity, visit the chateau in tiny Ansouis or sample the local wine at the neighbouring vineyards, Château Constantin just along the road from should not be missed, tell the owners that I recommended you visit them, they will take extra special care of you! Sunday is a very popular day for the French to go out for lunch so definitely make a reservation. If you have just arrived & need to stock the pantry, local supermarkets close at lunch time, locations & hours below.

MONDAY

Within 30 minutes
 THE LUBERON
Drive up to Bonnieux, visit the Bread Museum (1 April - 31 October: 1 pm to 6 pm every day except Tuesdays). Enjoy a lazy lunch in the lovely gardens of La Bergerie, afterwards discover Lacoste Ménerbes & the nearby wine domaines before meandering the streets of the ghost town of Oppède-le-Vieux. If you wanted to book a wine tour for later in the week we loved Avignon Wine Tours.

Within 90 minutes 
Avignon (70Km) visit Les Palais des Papes and Avignon's famous bridge Pont d'Avignon/Bénézet, remember the song 'Sur La Pont D'Avignon?' Click here for what to see in Avignon.  Combine a trip to Avignon with a visit to its neighbouring iconic wine region Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

 The Roman towns of Arles (84km) and Nimes (115km) & their incredible Roman arenas.
Aigues Mortes (130km) the most well preserved medieval walled city in Europe, famous for its salt, Le Saunier de Camargue, mined since the 8th century, factory tours available, so worth the drive!

TUESDAY

Gordes and Roussillon
Tuesday is market day in Gordes! After lunch maybe visit the Le Village des Bories. Don't miss L'Abbaye de Notre-Dame de Senanque, a great photo opportunity especially in June when the lavender is blooming. The tour takes an hour & is in French but is a fascinating insight into a working Silent Order. Then continue on to explore the ochre wonders of the village of nearby Roussillon.

WEDNESDAY

 St Remy-de-Provence, Les Baux de Provence & Carrières de Lumières
If you only do one day trip it should be to the video art spectacle at Carrières de Lumières by the perched village of Les Baux de Provence. Admission to the château ruins at Les Baux (an excellent self-guided audio tour, allow an hour)  and to Carrières de Lumières is combined at a discounted rate if you have time. 

Visit on a Wednesday, stopping first at the charming town of St Remy-de-Provence where it's market day. Have lunch in St Remy (poor options at Les Baux) before you take the short drive through the olive groves & vineyards; the view of Les Baux will catch your breath as it become visible on the rocky escarpment to your right!

Within 90 minutes
If you are feeling in need of some sea breezes, Wednesday (& Friday) is also market day in the pretty coastal town of Cassis.
 Take a boat tour to see the incredible finger like inlets Les Calanques de Cassis.

THURSDAY

Within 30 minutes
Bonnieux  Lacoste, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux  ~ see Monday. This time have lunch at the delicious La Terrasse in Goult. If like me, you love the film 'A Good Year' (shot locally in Bonnieux & The Luberon) you could visit Chateau la Canorgue & the filming locations, click here for details.

If you haven't already done so maybe this is your day to spend in beautiful Aix-en-Provence. (39km)

Within 90 minutes
Avignon(70Km), Nimes(115km), Arles(84km) and Aigues Mortes(130km) ~ (see Monday)

FRIDAY

Lourmarin market day
Stay local enjoy the market and lunch in the village!!

SATURDAY

Within 30 minutes
Market day in Apt. You could drive back from here on a different route stopping for lunch at L’Auberge des  Tilleuls in Grambois and then go on to the Occitane factory at Manosque. If you still haven't been to Aix-en-Provence go there today!!!
Within 90 minutes 
Uzès' (107km) Market day, reputedly the best market in Provence, if you haven't visited this delightful bastide city it is truly heaven, again leave early parking is tough on Saturdays, click here for the Uzès Travel Guide! Do stop at the Roman Aqueduct Pont du Gard (UNESCO site) on your way home, quite unforgettable!

SUNDAY

l'Isle sur la Sorgue antique market, stroll the rows of antique stalls by the canals! Great fun but get there early as parking is tough and beware, prices are higher than Paris!! Afterwards you could visit Fontaine de Vaucluse the mysterious source of the Vaucluse river!

MARKET DAYS IN PROVENCE

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt
Wednesday: Mérindol,Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis
Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence,- La Motte d'Aigues & Ménerbes evenings
Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cucuron evenings July & August, Cassis
Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt May- mid November, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Uzès
Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

LOCAL SUPERMARKETS
Lourmarin  
VIVAL: Place du Clos Building Savournin 84160 Lourmarin
~ just along from the Tourist Office, a small grocery shop
Tuesday - Saturday: 08:30-13:00/15:30-19:00  Sunday:08:30-13:00 Monday:closed

SUPERT TAF 2:  42 Rue Philippe De Girard 84160 Lourmarin

BOULANGERIE:  8 Rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin
Tuesday - Sunday: 07:00-13:00/15:00-19:00  (Summer hours:15h30-19h30)

Larger Supermarkets
SUPER U PUYVERT: RN 913  84160 Puyvert ~ a 5 minute drive towards Lauris.
Open every day 09.00-20.00 Sunday until 13.00

CARREFOUR PERTUIS:  Route d'Aix En Provence, 84120 Pertuis ~23 minutes drive
Mon- Sat:08.30-20.30 Sunday:08.30-12.30 (In Pertuis there are a few large supermarkets)

To read more about this beautiful region download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide

If you need an on-sight expert contact Christel. Christel manages my village house Maison des Cerises in Lourmarin. She also offers wonderful gourmet cooking and other great concierge services. Christel has a wealth of local knowledge, speaks fluent English & is charming. Tell her you found her through me, she'd be delighted to help make your visit special.

There are many others places I've yet to discover, let me know what you find!

The post Plan a stay in Lourmarin the Luberon, Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Some of most 'beautiful villages of France' plus beaux villages de France' are found in the Vaucluse region of Provence. Of the seven Vaucluse villages classified as 'plus beaux villages de France', five are in the Luberon Valley; Lourmarin and four villages perchés (hilltop villages); Ansouis, Menerbes, Gordes and Roussillon. Mostly dating from the Middle Ages and usually clustered around a château they are perched high above the region's sweeping vineyards and orchards they define this breathtaking region. Golden stone walls weathered by time, tall, shaded, narrow streets, occasionally splashed with sunlight as the sun momentarily casts its rays to peep around the corners as the day unfolds. Radiating their own unique charm and all within a few miles of one another, one cannot be failed to be captivated.

Ansouis

Ansouis is the first of the 'beautiful villages of France' we are going to visit. A meandering collection of winding, cobbled streets and brightly coloured shutters. Lying in the southern Luberon, it is just 15 minutes (6.5 miles) from Lourmarin, tiny but captivating!! Don't miss a peek into its incredibly well preserved chateau which dates back to 961 to admire its incredible collection of 17th and 18th century furniture and tapestries and the neighbouring pretty little church St Martin.

Ansouis has an excellent restaurant La Closerie (Boulevard des Platanes, 84240 Ansouis Tel: +33 (0)4 90 09 90 54 ) charming and elegant with delicious food but make you sure you book!

There is also a slightly bizarre little museum, Musée Extraordinaire set in a recreated underwater grotto housing the collection of one man's diving finds, it is open most afternoons!

Ménerbes

You will find the delightful, fortified village of Ménerbes on the other side of the valley from Lourmarin (14 miles away) just beyond Bonnieux. Ménerbes has been home to many artists and writers. Picasso lived within its enfold and Peter Mayle wrote his best seller ‘A Year in Provence' here.

Ménerbes has several beautiful renaissance properties and in the town hall square, Place de l’Horloge, you'll find a 17th century belfry and the lovingly restored ‘Maison de la truffe et du vin‘ where you can sample local truffles and wines. There are several places to eat. Market day is Thursday and there is a really good lavishly stocked épicerie open most days!

You can sample wonderful local Luberon vintages at the nearby domains. The wonderful Domaine de Marie and on your way on to Gordes, Domaine de la Citadelle, home to the Corkscrew museum, a fascinating, collection of over 1,000 corkscrews showcasing the history of the corkscrew.

Gordes

Gordes, is our next 'beautiful villages of France' and is another 7 miles further, on the opposite side of the valley floor. Following the olive tree flanked hairpins, the road will begin to straighten and as you turn one of the last corners you will suddenly be greeted by a breathtakingly spectacular view. It almost looks as if someone has collected a cluster of stone buildings, grabbed them in their hand and scattered them to tumble dramatically down the  hillside....

A peek along the streets through Gordes' honey stone buildings. The ancient doorways and carefully restored stone-faced buildings preserve the stories of centuries of history.

L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

On your way to the next of the 'beautiful villages of France' Roussillon, don't miss L' Abbaye Notre-Dame Sénanque, a Cistercian Monastery nestled at the foot of the hills below Gordes. It looks at its most splendid when the surrounding lavender fields are in full bloom, around late June each year.

At this time of year, in early spring. the lavender fields look more like rows of fat little hedgehogs, you'll pass many of them on your approach to Roussillon.

Roussillon

Roussillon, the fifth of our 'beautiful villages of France', is famous for its vibrant blood orange colours ~ the natural pigment of the surrounding rock, the rich, vibrant ochre.

The Roussillon ochre bathed in late afternoon sunlight

Driving back towards Lourmarin, you'll be spoiled by the incredible views before winding your way back through Bonnieux and down to the southern side of the Valley where Lourmarin will lay waiting for you.

The post The Luberon's 'plus beaux villages de France', 'beautiful villages of France', appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

A twisting road leads you down into a small market square, flanked on every side with restaurants and you are in Fontaine de Vaucluse. With the high surrounding 'mountainous' hills encasing it in, Fontaine de Vaucluse feels as if it has been enfolded into the the end of the narrow valley.

Here the Sorgue River inexplicably takes its source, from the beautiful and mysterious spring feeding it. This spring, one of the world’s largest, is from deep underground – no one has been able to discover how deep, even Jacques Yves Cousteau in the 1950’s could not find its bottom! Once known as the 'closed valley' ~ Vaucluse, it is from this that not only the town derives its name, but also the department of Vaucluse when it was created in 1793.
As you wind your way alongside the stunningly clear, turquoise blue water, on one side are the ruins of a Roman canal. Towering dramatically high above are the ruins of the Bishop of Cavillon's castle.

The crystal rushing water beside you swirls with fresh green bamboo, washed down from the hills, bouncing its way over the natural weirs and waterfalls. A canoeist’s haven and there were several of them out, negotiating the bubbling froth which rapidly becomes the sparkling, vivid emerald Sorgue river dominating Fontaine de Vaucluse. One cannot help but wonder whether the cave  like features in the hills above once provided shelter for the very earliest settler. It would hardly seem out of context or even surprising to see a man clad in animal skins suddenly appear holding a long, hand carved spear. The entire setting lends itself to such imaginings and drama!

We were fascinated to watch the worn, seemingly timeless water mill, wrapped in a mantel of sodden moss as it spluttered and halted and then suddenly sprung to life again. We soon discovered that this mill was a critical component to a 15^th century paper mill, Vallis Clausa, where they are still making paper in the traditional method today.
It is possible to watch this original, early paper making process and learn the incredible, time intensive craftsmanship that was required to manufacture the first paper. It is not surprising that paper was originally such an expensive and much prized commodity. A far cry from purchasing a bundle of 500 sheets today for virtually nothing!

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region, do let me know your recommendations !

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