'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

The post Lourmarin, The Luberon, Provence, Travel guide appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We departed Lourmarin just as winter had arrived, with Christmas round the corner. The trees were almost bare, only a few remnants of their golden autumn gown still clinging to the branches. Temperatures had fallen, especially when the Mistral blew her cruel, icy breath down the Rhône Valley. There were occasional early morning frosts and mists creeping across the ground at first light. But most days the skies were still cornflower blue, with bright, dazzling rays of sunlight illuminating the world with a clarity only found in Provence. Perfect conditions for the olive harvest.

It's barely been two weeks since we were there, and now, from so far away, it's hard to believe it's all just as we left it. The air perfumed with woodsmoke, and an air of expectancy swirling below the strings of twinkling lights. Below them, along the Lourmarin streets, carefully positioned baby sapins proudly displaying cheery crimson bows.

Brightly decorated shop fronts, our wonderful artist Isirdi's Gallery looking splendid.

Many strung with tiny sparkles.

A profusion of temptations enticingly displayed.

One of my favorite at this time of year, La Maison Franc, their beautiful lavender wands and boules a special treat for the Christmas tree.

Lourmarin's delightful new Boucherie was preparing to supply the village with an array of delicious, festive food!

The weekly markets still arriving, somewhat depleted except for food stalls, happy to help the locals to stock the local people's Christmas pantries.

Warm lazy days sipping rosé in the shade were a distant memory. But café terraces still bustled, their patrons swaddled in coats and scarves, huddled around steaming hot drinks.

Christmas markets were popping up each weekend, we visited this one in the pretty fishing town of Cassis.

Tethered boats bobbed in Cassis harbor where we enjoyed lunch on the quayside.

And in Aix-en-Provence, its famous Cours Mirabeau was lined with a white ribbon of festive stalls.

Provencal gifts from the region; lavender products, incredible carved chocolate sets,

Calissons, a local almond paste speciality.

Festive bow ties.

presents made of wood,

and Santons, the hand-painted terracotta scene figurines made to decorate Provencal Nativity Crèches.

The Christmas Traditions of Provence

The Santons

Santons were first created during the French Revolution by Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822), an artisan from Marseilles. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene had about 55 Santons, depicting not only religious characters but local figures from ordinary life. To this day the Santons are positioned around a traditional crib scene surrounded by small buildings from the village.

Santon fairs take place all over Provence and officially mark the beginning of the Christmas season. We admired the Santon nativity scene displayed inside the magnificent cathedral of Aix-en-Provence, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur.

Le blé de la Sainte-Barbe

Christmas in Provence begins on December 4th, the day of Ste-Barbe. In the days before Christmas little bags of wheat are sold or handed out free at boulangeries. Ste Barbe is celebrated by planting this wheat in small pots. The belief is, that if the wheat grows straight the year ahead will be prosperous.

Traditionally families grow 3 pots of wheat to represent the Holy Trinity. These pots decorate the table on Christmas Eve for the Gros Souper. This is a meatless meal, often beginning with a garlic soup, followed by a fish dish and thirteen desserts. After the Christmas day lunchtime meal the wheat is placed in the crèche among the santons, laid there to symbolise the fields.

Les Treize Desserts~ the 13 desserts

Les Treize desserts is an ancient tradition and steeped in symbolism, thirteen representing the Last Supper with Jesus and the 12 Apostles.

Although it is now possible to buy a simplified, boxed version, traditionally the 13 desserts would have included dried and fresh fruit, two types of nougat, candied fruit and Fougasse, a flatbread made of olive oil and orange flower water. The custom is that the fougasse should be torn not sliced, to do otherwise is to cause financial ruin for the coming year! The desserts are often eaten after Midnight Mass and served together with vin cuit, a fortified wine. Everyone is meant to try a little of each dessert.

Provence and Lourmarin seem very far away from California. And since we left, winter has dusted our little village with a coat of snow. I've been there when it snows, when my fairy tale village seems even more magical, as it waits patiently for Christmas.

I hope you're waiting patiently, not too tied up in wrapping paper, tinsel and chaos!

Wishing you all a Happy Christmas wherever in the world you may be

and thank you for loyally following my ramblings!

The post Christmas in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

The post Returning somewhere special, Lourmarin, our village in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The COVID pandemic has consumed us all. My heart goes out to those that have lost loved ones and the debt owed to our health care workers can never be repaid. Globally the world has been tipped on its axis. As it continues to spin it sometimes feels that it will never stop, will life ever return to normal?

For us, amongst other things, we have been disappointed not to be able to travel to Lourmarin. We’ve kept in touch with friends we’ve made there and just recently I heard from Susan and Towny in New Hampshire who like us have a long enduring love affair with Lourmarin. It was wonderful to hear from them but also very humbling as reading Susan’s email I realized that however frustrating and financially challenging the effects of COVID might be, compared to the life changing tragedy they’ve been forced to deal with our problems pale into insignificance.

Two years ago, unrelated to COVID, Susan and Towny lost their beautiful, vivacious, twenty-six-year old daughter Alex to a devastating little-known illness called PANDAS.

Susan and Towny lived with Alex in Lourmarin in 2002 and during that time made lifelong friends. It is actually because of Susan that we met our friend Walter, whose help with the purchase and renovation of our house was invaluable.

Three years ago our families spent a wonderful evening together in Lourmarin. Our lovely daughter Kate was with us. Two bright, bubbly young women of a similar age found they had much in common, a mutual love of Provence being one of them. We still have our Kate but Alex is gone......

It is impossible to recover from such terrible loss but Susan and Towny are an incredible inspiration. Determined that other people don’t have to endure their suffering and pain they have bravely committed themselves to educating people about PANDAS which if detected and diagnosed can be treated. By establishing The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund, and attending medical conventions they are committed to telling her story and with the help of dear friends in Lourmarin have begun a project, À Table! to help spread awareness.

There’s is a story of deep sorrow but it is also a thought provoking story of courage and a reminder of the goodness of people. It's one I asked Susan if I could share, to help raise awareness about this ugly disease which so cruelly stole their only child away from them.

Several of Susan and Towny's friends from Lourmarin have joined with them in the À Table! project to help. I know Gérard and Christine Isirdi, Gérard did a commission  for my friend which we are in!

Madeleine Premmereur of Château Barbebelle I’ve not met but I’m hoping to do so. And Hervé Giustiniani, the owner of De la cuisine Au 20 in Lourmarin, I don’t know personally, yet, but I know his smiling face and his delightful shop.

So how are they helping the À Table! project and what exactly is it?

Susan and Towny are dedicated wine connoisseurs, they author a wonderful blog Provencewinezine and decided to use their knowledge and passion for wine via the À Table! project as one of their ways to raise awareness about PANDAS.

As Susan wrote “….. we got the idea of using bottles of wine to spread the word about the deadly role of strep in causing neuropsychiatric symptoms. Many people know that strep infections can seriously affect the heart, kidneys, skin, and joints (e.g., rheumatic fever, scarlet fever, and even necrotizing fasciitis) but they don’t know how it can lead to very serious inflammatory conditions in the basal ganglia part of the brain. The label on the wine bottle and an attached booklet would contain information about strep and PANDAS (and a related condition called PANS)”.

Gérard is a renowned painter whose atelier is on the main street in Lourmarin.

His iconic scenes of village life and the Luberon are admired across the continents.

Gérard has designed the wine label

Madeleine Premmereur (née Herbeau), is the 4th generation of her family to manage the 16th century Château Barbebelle, one of the oldest estates in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, located in Rognes, near Aix-en Provence.

Madeleine, here with Susan, has supplied the vintages

Hervé, pictured here with Towny, is selling the wine in Lourmarin

Susan wondered if somehow I might have found my way to Lourmarin and be able to interview their dear friends to write this article. Sadly, like Susan and Towny we have not been able to get there. It will however be my first blog post when I return but for now I hope I can help in this tiny way to let you all know about the incredible work they are doing.

COVID has currently prevented them, for now, from moving their project forward in the way they’d hoped. Travel to Lourmarin from USA is almost impossible but Hervé has the wine for sale at De La Cuisine Au 20 Wine and Épicerie in Lourmarin.

From July 31st 2020 the wine has also been for sale in Susan’s local wine merchant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire at the South Street and Vine Wine and Cheese Shop.

As part of their awareness campaign Susan and Towny are asking everyone to raise their glasses (of Alex's wine or their favorite beverage, even tea or sparkling water) to Alex and every other person diagnosed with PANDAS with the promise that they will spread the word about this horrible disorder.  Please take a photo of the toast and send it to Susan at: susan@provencewinezine.com. She will post them all on Instagram (@TheAlexManfullMemorialFund) on Alex's birthday, September 7.

I wish Susan and Towny all the luck in the world. This is written with so much love and respect for them and the special people that are helping them from the beguiling little village in the Luberon that connects us all so profoundly, our enchanting village of Lourmarin.

To purchase the wine contact Susan: susan@provencewinezine.com

Contact Information:

Château Barbebelle
Route D 543, 13840 Rognes, France
Tel: (33) 4 42 50 22 12 Email: contact@barbebelle.com

Gérard Isirdi
Atelier Isirdi, 4 rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 4 90 08 50 96 Email: isirdi@wanadoo.fr

De La Cuisine Au 20
20 Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 9 53 96 96 61 Email: contact@delacuisineau20.com

South Street and Vine
359 Marcy St, Portsmouth, NH 03801            Tel: (603) 430-2984 Email: robin@southstreetandvine.com

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I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

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It’s May and the poppies are blooming in Provence. Their tiny black faces almost obscured by their bright red hats, delicate, vibrant, petals wafting in the breeze.

Last year I was in Lourmarin admiring them. This year I should have been too but then the world stopped and everything changed.

But I know they're smiling once again, amid the olive trees, in the fields and along the country road sides.

A dotted carpet of crimson hats will be splashed in front of the Lourmarin château.

There’s no red poppies in northern California, where I live, 30 miles east of the City by the Bay. But in this beautiful, scenic area, in both the gardens and on the rolling hills above my house there are a mass of wild flowers, including local poppies.

Californian poppies, the dazzling orange little cousins of the poppies from Provence. This poppy, the Golden Poppy, is native to California. It grows wildly in great abundance and in 1903 was made the official state flower.

I'm sad to not be in Lourmarin and can you blame me....

But I'm lucky to be somewhere also very lovely, it's not too bad a view where I live!

And as an English girl, who might well be confused, living in California but passionately in love with Provence, I couldn't write about poppies without explaining their huge significance back at home.

Growing up in England, where poppies  flourish later in the year, I’d always associated them with the end of summer not the start. But most of all I think of them on Poppy Day, in November, dedicated to the remembrance of all those that fell among the fields of northern France and Belgium in World War I.

And those poppies that fringed the battlefields at Ypres in 1915 became immortalized in the words of a Canadian Soldier, Major John Macrae

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below

****

And as an English girl, so connected to the USA and France, the story of the poppies is entwined with these three places I hold so dear. For we owe the origins of the poppy as a symbol of remembrance to an American woman, Moina Michael, who having read In Flanders fields campaigned tirelessly for the poppy to be adopted as a symbol of Remembrance in the USA. In September 1920 the National American Legion agreed and inspired by Moina’s idea, a French woman, Anna Guerin, expanded it to help all those in need amongst the allies of France in Europe.

A year later, on November 11th 1921, Anna sent some French women to London to sell their artificial red poppies on Remembrance Day. It became the emblem for The Royal British Legion who every since have used the funds from Poppy Day to help a multitude of charitable causes.

Wherever you might be reading this I hope you have some flowers to brighten your day. In these difficult days of worry, whether red or orange, regardless of their color or where they grow, a bunch of flowers will cheer your spirits. Something I'm wishing for you all, with a speedy end to all uncertainty, when we we can all move freely and safely as we did before. Stay safe and well my friends.

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Imagine staying in a glorious 19th century Provencal country estate surrounded by mighty cedars, olive trees and resplendent vineyards framed by the rolling Luberon hills of the Durance Valley. Transformed in 2013 by architect Alexandre Lafourcade, Domaine de Fontenille is now a luxury spa hotel and exceptional wine domaine, with nineteen beautifully appointed bedrooms, two restaurants and a spa. The original architecture has been carefully restored subtly blending the old and new to create this delightful haven.

Location

Situated on the outskirts of the Luberon village of Lauris, Domaine de Fontenille is 5 minutes from Lourmarin, 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence, 45 minutes from Avignon and Marseille Airport, 50 minutes from Marseille and just over an hour from the coastal destinations of Cassis and Bandol. If you're visiting the region a stay in Fontenille would be the perfect place to explore the serenity and beauty of the Luberon.

History

The original bastide dates from 1638 and belonged to the Savornin family. In 1850 Alphonse de Savornin built the gorgeous Provencal country property we see today. His granddaughter Amélie, later developed the park like grounds. In 2014 the current owners restored and developed it to its present glory.

The 17th century vaulted cellar has become the reception hall and the old wine cellars a Center for Contemporary Art. The ground floor reception rooms opening onto the terrace have been tastefully refurbished and overlook the stunning gardens.

Wine at Domaine de Fontenille

Under the guidance of oenologist and agricultural engineer Laurence Berlemont, an expert in Provence wines, the estate has now been fully restored to the 35 hectares it was in 1748. Since 2018 the production has been totally organic.

Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille

Sample the domaine's cuvées; Amélie, Fontenille and Alphonse in white, rosé and red at the tasting rooms; Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille (across the road from the hotel). Open every day all year: 10.00 -13.00 & 14.00 -19.00, no reservations required.

La Boutique du Lourmarin

From April 1 to September 30 tasting is also available in Lourmarin on Place de la Fontaine, 2 rue du Grand Pré: Open every day : 10.00 - 13.00 & 14.00-18.00

At any time of year Fontenille's terrace is the perfect setting to enjoy one of the domaine's vintages, surrounded by the ambience of this special place.

Restaurants at Domaine de Fontenille

Fontenille has two restaurants overseen by Chef Benjamin Pâtissier. Both profile locally sourced products about 80% from the hotel's own garden.

Le Champ des Lunes

Le Champ des Lunes is a Michelin-starred gourmet treat. Open all year, (From February to the end of May closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday all day). Set Menu from 58 euros. Click here for full details and reservations

La Cuisine d'Amélie

From the terrace overlooking the beautiful grounds or in the south reception rooms, La Cuisine d'Amélie offers a delicious and creative choice of small plates. Breakfast is also served here. Open all year, (February to the end of May closed Wednesday and Thursday all day). Prices between 14-20 euros. Click here for menus and reservations

Summer musical evenings

Throughout the summer the hotel hosts wonderful musical evenings set within its breathtaking grounds

Enjoy a casual BBQ supper on the terrace or come just for the music. We loved it, the food was delicious and the performances were excellent, we're looking forward to returning this year.

The Spa at Fontenille

In addition to the fitness room and 20 meter heated outdoor swimming pool Fontenille also has a spa. Combining the natural beauty of the hotel’s tranquil setting the spa offers bespoke treatments to meet client’s specific needs.

Spa Senses Day I'm excited to try one of Fontenille's special Senses Days ~ a 50 minute treatment with lunch at either La Cuisine d'Amélie, or Le Champ des Lunes restaurant and complimentary use of the hotel pool all day. A perfect indulgence to pamper oneself. Price: 155 Euros Click here for Reservations and Spa Menu

For more information about Domaine de Fontenille visit their website

Domaine de Fontenille Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris

+33 (0)4 13 98 00 00

info@domainedefontenille

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

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It's December and people everywhere are getting ready for Christmas. After weeks of blue skies and gentle warm days it’s raining where I live in California and temperatures have plummeted. The puddles are splattered with the last remnants of autumn and the mornings are frosty with low lying mists hanging over the hills. Pumpkins have been cast aside replaced with Christmas sparkle, draped across roof tops and porches sometimes quite dramatically, beckoning in the Festive season.

And I know, in Lourmarin preparations for Christmas, le Fête Noël  are also underway. I'm not going to be there but can imagine it, the bustle and excitement, the decorating, the cooking, shops bursting with enticement and my little street festooned with twinkling fairy lights.

Christmas markets

In the larger European cities wooden chalets straight from a German Christmas story are now peppered throughout the streets. Each weekend tiny villages play host to Christmas markets, near Lourmarin these Marchés de Noël  are held in local schools, town halls and  wineries. My favorite is in Aix-en-Provence where the Cours Mirabeau will have become lined with festive wooden chalets.

Provence Traditions

Calissons d'Aix

Calissons d'Aix are sweet treets made from an ancestral recipe; a mixture of finely ground almonds, melon de Provence and candied orange peel, on a wafer bed covered with a royal icing setting, délicieux!

Santons

A charming part of Christmas in Provence, Santons are hand-painted terracotta nativity scene figurines. They were first created during the French Revolution by an artisan from Marseilles, Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822). A Provencal crib scene would traditionally have about 55 Santons, depicting different characters from the region.

The 13 deserts of Christmas

 The Provencal 13 desserts of Christmas are an age old custom eaten after Gros Souper, the equivalent of Christmas dinner, thought to have represented Jesus and the 12 apostles.

The 13 deserts normally include a Fougasse (an olive oil flatbread), a Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), a platter of fresh fruit, a fig stuffed with walnuts, dates and white nougat. Not all are home made and  different regions offer their own variations; but everywhere has the Bûche de Noël!

Shopping in Lourmarin

If I were in Lourmarin here are some of the shops I would be browsing for my Christmas gifts

La Maison FRANC  ~16 Rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin

What could be more special than a handmade gift interwoven with beautiful ribbon exuding the evocative fragrance of Provence, a Lavender wand (Coeur de Lavande) or Lavender boule for your tree ? La Maison Franc has some of the very finest and they ship all over the world.

KOT for linen clothing & gifts  ~ rue de la Juiverie, Lourmarin

Rose de Bagatelle  for clothing & gifts ~ 8 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Mizso for handmade jewelry ~ 1 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Souleo de Provence for pottery ~ 14 rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin. Their Lourmarin shop opened this spring but was previously in the Lourmarin market.  Also available online from USA, albeit for a tad bit more!

A book gift about Provence

If like me you love all things French, treat yourself or your friends to a gift of these wonderful little books, 'One Sip at a Time' & 'Are we French Yet'. Written by fellow franophile Keith-Van-Sickle who lives near me in California, (read my review here) they are full of wit and charm and 'Are we French Yet' is also available in an audio edition. Keith is offering a free copy up until Wednesday 11th December 2019. Click here and you might get lucky!

What are the Festive customs and traditions where you live? Are you expecting a white Christmas? Maybe my fairy tale village will be sprinkled with snow completing the magic of this special time of year.

Happy Christmas wherever you are!

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