Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

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Just under a three hours drive north west of Lourmarin lies the Aveyron region of southern France. A place of mystical fairy-tale châteaux, (we were fortunate enough to stay in one), medieval villages, gothic cathedrals, and a past where swash buckling knights fought to protect their land. A rich, verdant landscape where sheep and cattle graze happily just below the Massif Central. A region suddenly more accessible in the 21st century by the completion of the breathtaking Millau Viaduct.

Millau Viaduct

The Millau Viaduct, an incredible feat of engineering, spanning the Tarn Valley, it is the tallest viaduct and bridge in the world, forming part of the A75 from Paris to Béziers and Montpellier. It was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster and French engineer, Michel Virlogeux  and was built by Eiffage. After 14 years of preparation, it took just three years to build and opened in 2004 at cost of 400 million euros.

Award winning and internationally acclaimed, the viaduct is often referred to as 'the structure which broke all records'. It is 2460 meters long and spans 242 meters, the Eiffel Tower could fit sideways between its two piers. Its steel deck weighs 36000 tonnes, the equivalent of 5100 African elephants. Its pylons are 87m high, equivalent to a 29-storey building and as the world's tallest bridge it rises 343 meters into the clouds, 19 meters taller than the Eiffel Tower.

Château de Labro

Hidden down a quiet, leafy lane an hour away, near the cathedral city of Rodez, we found our way to the 16th century Château de Labro. Our 'home' for a few nights whilst we explored this intriguing corner of France.

Our bedroom was in the original part of the old château, our bathroom in the turret.

A spiral, 'Rapunzel' staircase led up to our room,

through the château's Games Room,

into our sumptuously decorated bedroom.

The turret bathroom was perhaps a little different to navigate, with its hand-held shower over the toilet, becoming a true wet room once used!

Boasting a rich history of plots and intrigue, sadly the château became neglected. But, in 2002, Jean and Nizou Rouquet fell under its spell and embarked on an extensive restoration to bring it back to life.

Some of the bedrooms are in the lovely adjoining building, by the Spa and other receptions room.

Great care has been taken to create an authentic but luxurious place to stay. The exterior details are a subtle but charming nod to the past.

A clever blending of old and new,

with reminders of the château's rural setting.

The château is now run by the Rouquet' son, Michel, who hopes its visitors will be able to relax, surrounded by the serenity of the château and its carefully chosen furnishings and fixtures and the beauty of the surrounding Aveyron countryside.

Sauveterre de Rouergue

The Aveyron is home to several 'Plus Beaux Villages de France'. Sauveterre de Rouergue was the first one we visited. A charming medieval village, dating back to 1281, it is located in the heart of Ségala, the land of a hundred valleys, between Rodez and Albi.

The central square with its 47 arches, edged with timber framed and stone houses is a delightful place to sit and become immersed in the age-old ambience.

One can almost hear the clatter of small carts as people from a bygone era hurry across the cobbles below the arches to the market.

Belcastel

Thirty minutes to the north of Sauveterre de Rouergue lies Belcastel, also a 'Plus Beau Village de France'.

The magnificent fortress of Château de Belcastel, perched on a giant rock face, dates back over 1000 years. Initially it was a 9th century chapel which grew in size as generations of knights and nobles made their mark. It was abandoned in the 16th century until 1973, when renowned architect, Ferdinand Pouillon, began an eight year restoration process to make it his private home. An incredible historical landmark, the family still welcomes visitors to admire its art gallery, medieval armor and enjoy its stunning panoramic views.

Crossing the medieval bridge to the church,

one is reminded of the power that religion played in people's lives.

This place of worship, a short stroll across the water, might have been small but its importance in this tiny, medieval village, would have been immense for hundreds of years.

Rodez

Our explorations for the day finished back in Rodez, the capital of the Aveyron region, in the north east of the Midi- Pyrenees region, between the foothills of the Massif Central and the plains of the southwest.

Set on a hill, Rodez's gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame dominates the skyline. Its intricately carved tower reaching up above the old narrow streets. Inside it is just as magnificent.

The city squares are flanked by fine medieval and renaissance buildings built from either local creamy pale limestone or red sandstone, like these city walls.

We returned to our château, a short drive from this lovely city, to dinner and wine in the hotel restaurant, wondering what we'd discover the following day on our continued exploration of the Aveyron.

Map from Lourmarin

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On Saturday we went back to the beautiful bastide town of Uzès. An hour and a half from Lourmarin, just west of Avignon, we often visit on a Saturday. We get up early to stop off on route at the Antique Market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, a weekly event across the river from Avignon, to then hurry on to Uzès where on a Saturday Uzès plays host to arguably one of the finest markets in the region. This delightful duchy holds a special place in my heart. It's where we lived in 2012 and where the story of Shutters and Sunflowers began. It's also the stage for my World War II historical novel, The Sunflower Field, the true story of the Polish cryptologists who having cracked The Enigma Code in 1932, lived in hiding in Uzès, for two years during the war.

And within minutes of arriving back I was reminded of the inspiration for the title of my blog. The shutters adorning the windows of Uzès that so captivated me,

and the golden smiling faces of the sunflowers, which long after they've danced their annual repertoire in nearby fields, still fill the flower baskets in the market.

A market that was in full swing when we found our way there, shaded below its' leafy canopy in Uzès central square, Place-aux-Herbes.

Amongst the abundance of fresh produce was local purple garlic,

and colorful whicker baskets, greatly reduced in price as the summer season has begun to dwindle to a close.

And announcing the arrival of autumn, there was a wide variety of mushrooms, including a Provençal speciality, cèpes, only available for a few weeks at this time of year.

The market winds its way along the cobbled streets between the town's splendid golden arches.

And by lunchtime the restaurant tables are full, weary shoppers tempted by the plat du jours. Laughter and chatter fill the air and no-one seems to notice the market slowly slip away.

Leaving the bustle behind, it's an ideal time to explore the now deserted streets.

One quickly becomes immersed in the charming ambience of this truly special place. A timeless enchantment which never fades.

The worn steps of Rue rue Saint-Théodorit entice us down.

And finding our way back to Place-aux-Herbes, all swept and cleaned, it's hard to believe just moments earlier this was the hub of a busy, heaving market.

Crossing the square we wandered into a local favorite, the one shop I always have to return to, Les Pots d'Uzès

I wished I could buy some more, especially the very largest ones for my outdoor patio.

I had to content myself with just looking ......

As we made our way back through the streets we caught a glimpse of one of the treasures of Uzès, the Fenestrelle Tower, peeking its head above the roof tops.

Nearby a sunflower smiled in greeting outside one of the local artisan's shops.

We passed by more ancient, shuttered buildings,

and lingered for one last time in Place-aux-Herbes, not wanting to leave.

Standing wistfully outside the house where we lived (which I've featured in my novel)

we wandered back down the street and as always, I wondered disloyally, if maybe we should have bought in Uzès, it always beguiles me so....

Driving back, we promised ourselves to soon make a trip back to the magnificent walled city of Avignon.

And through the front windscreen, as we caught a glimpse of Le Pont Saint Benezet, we found ourselves humming the nursery tune we'd both learned in Primary school, 'Sur la Pont d'Avignon...'

That evening, back in Lourmarin, sitting outside our beloved Café Gaby, my doubts about where we should have our house in Provence, fade. I'll always adore Uzès and love every moment we spend there, but this is where we belong.....

Come and see for yourself!

Download  The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès my travel tips about Uzès

Rent Maison des Cerises ~our house in Provence, already taking bookings for 2022!

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Fly fishing in Montana

Montana is renowned for its beautiful fly fishing rivers. Enthusiasts come from all over the country to float the rivers and fish. For me, the idea of wading into cold water, albeit with waterproofs on, to wait for hours, to maybe catch one fish, did not sound very appealing. But we were going to be spending a few days at our friend's beautiful property on The Big Hole River, one of the premier fly fishing rivers in Montana, so I was open to see what all the fuss was about.

The Big Hole River, Montana

I've learned that there's always a story if you look for it, and even with a river I found one! The Lewis and Clark expedition discovered and named the Jefferson River in 1805, also naming its three tributaries, Philosophy, Philanthropy and Wisdom in honor of President's Jefferson's virtues. The Wisdom was the most western of the three. Fur trappers later renamed it and the valley where it's situated, The Big Hole, a traditional term for a winter shelter. A community about 50 miles to the west still carries the name Wisdom today. The other two tributaries eventually became known as the Ruby and Beaverhead Rivers. But we floated the Big Hole and it was thrilling. The water spluttered and rushed ahead of us, bald eagles circled the sky and one of us even caught a fish. I was excited for the our next day out. But first we had some other places on the itinerary to explore.

Anaconda, Montana

About 45 miles north of Melrose, where we were staying, is Anaconda. At the beginning of the 20th century Anaconda was a thriving mining town. The mines have been closed for decades and the original mining area has been miraculously transformed into a Jack Nicklaus golf course discreetly peppered with mining relics paying tribute to Anaconda's past. The mining company's former pay role office in the center of town is now home for The Smelter City Brewery.

It was great to see such a grand historic building restored to life, with the original 1900's elevator and early electric fuse box still on the wall. The beer was pretty good too!

Butte, Montana

North west from Melrose, is Butte. Captivated by a local guide's enthusiasm and his vast knowledge of a place he was clearly proud to talk about, he took us back to Butte's former glory years. And the past of this crusty old city was brought to life.

Hennessy's Department Store

According to our guide there are more historical buildings in Butte than any other city in USA. The building where the tour started was built in 1887.  The first three floors of this building, was originally the department store, Hennessy's, which, we were told, in its day rivaled any Macy's. Above it the corporate offices of The Copper Company, had been located. At one time this had been the 19th biggest corporation in USA.

The Hirbour Tower

Built in 1901, the Hirbour Tower has earned it's place on the historic register as Butte's first skyscraper.

Finlen Hotel

The art deco Finlen Hotel was built in 1924 and is still a hotel today. A grand, 9-story hotel with 250 rooms, it was designed after the Hotel Astor in New York City. Some of its former guests include John F. Kennedy, Thomas Edison, Richard Nixon, and Charles Lindbergh.

In the early 1900’s Butte was one of the richest cities in the USA and grew to become the largest city between Minneapolis and Seattle. Butte had many famous visitors, Teddy Roosevelt, Mark Twain and Al Capone all came to Butte, in addition to some of the big entertainers of the time. Al Jolson, Bing Crosby and Bob Hope all performed in Butte as did Charlie Chaplin in 1911. Chaplin wrote in his memoirs that he had became worn out in Butte, performing one show every 8 hours to coincide with the miner's shifts. He also commented that the ladies in Butte were the fairest in the West. At the time Butte had the second largest Red-Light district in the region.

Butte's basement businesses

As more people came to work in Butte its population exploded. In its prime, the city was so busy that the sidewalks were made two story because space was at such a premium. Many businesses were established underground with glass blocks placed in the sidewalk to bring in the light. Up until 1929 it was possible to travel six blocks below ground visiting these basement businesses.

This former barber's shop remained operational from 1924 until 1968.

The graffiti found on the walls here tell their own stories. Some of the graffiti was written by a sick child whose family were Norwegian. Based on what he wrote, the boy's family have been traced back to their arrival in USA at Ellis Island.

Our guide also referenced the visit of two women from Sacramento who, having found a shoe box belonging to their grandfather, containing memorabilia from Butte, came to trace their grandfather's origins. We were told that it was an emotional moment when their search led them to this basement and graffiti written in shoe polish by their grandfather.

Butte and Prohibition

As Butte grew, it ended up with 212 bars and was entered into the Guinness Book of Records twice. Once because its bar on Broadway was the longest in the world, a city block long requiring seventeen bar tenders to run it. And secondly, because it had the country’s smallest bar seating, only eight. Butte also has the oldest Chinese restaurant in USA, still operating from its original premise. It has just celebrated 100 years in business.

Carrie A. Nation, the woman most closely associated with the temperance movement, visited Butte in 1910 to try and quell, what she considered, a rampant propensity for alcohol. Carrie was known as “Mother Nation” for her work helping unfortunate women and children. Having suffered the alcoholism of two husbands she had established a chapter of the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union (WCTU) helping to pass a Kansas law against selling alcohol. She came to Butte determined to do the same.

Not surprisingly Carrie was not welcomed by the locals! It is not certain how much influence she had, although in 1919, Prohibition started in Butte, nine months earlier than elsewhere in the country. The Federal Government, however, continued to make money from alcohol due to a clever loop hole which permitted its use for medicinal purposes, with a prescription of course. In recent years evidence of alcohol consumption during Prohibition has been found when several hidden crates of 100% proof Kentucky whiskey were unearthed in Butte. In Anaconda, the remodel of a grocery store uncovered a false wall behind which thirty cases of bottles labelled as floor wax were revealed. Small enough to be concealed in a pocket, it is thought their intended use was for whiskey. Hundreds of whiskey stills have also been discovered throughout the region.

The Rookwood Speakeasy

Prohibition lasted from 1919 into the mid 1930’s. Throughout this entire time, illicit drinking venues known as speakeasies flourished, it's believed there were over one hundred and fifty in Butte. In 2004, a speakeasy was discovered in Butte's Rookwood Hotel, a hotel which had been abandoned since 1986. Built in 1912, the hotel had a lavish interior with Terrazzo tiles from Florence, Italy. It's lobby was situated in the basement to shield it from the noise of the busy streets above. The Rookwood Speakeasy was found hidden off this lobby behind 6.5 inch thick walls and a 4.5 inch thick door.

Before entering the Speakeasy, people were told to look into the lobby mirror, which was two way, allowing those inside to see who was trying to gain admittance. Anyone entering was told to whisper, or speak easy the secret code they'd just been given; hence the term 'speakeasy'.

Despite having been abandoned for decades the Rookwood Speakeasy was remarkably intact containing many artifacts from its era of operation.

This hat, left hanging on the wall, had been worn in the late 1920's, determined from its pin supporting Herbert Hoover’s 1928 campaign for the Presidency.

It's owner is believed to be in this photograph found on the wall next to it.

The bathroom behind the bar had an original Crapper Toilet from England. Unlike standard versions of these toilets its wooden cistern had been faced with copper, Butte's local precious treasure.

As an aside note the tour guide told us an entertaining bathroom story related to early British settlers coming to America in the 1500's. Concerned about the quality of the soil they’d find in the new world, they often transported manure with them. Fearful that the methane produced from the manure might blow up the ship, an order was given to Ship High in Transit. Although amusing, my research suggests this story is as full of the proverbial as the acronym itself!

The Butte Bastille 

Our last stop on the tour was at Butte's former civic buildings.

Home to the Mayor's office, it was also the police station and the city jail, known as “Butte Bastille”.

Built in the basement in 1890 it was a grim place. The steam pipes running in the ceilings ensured a sweltering and uncomfortable temperature of about 105 degrees F. The jail remained operational until 1971 when the Federal government finally closed it down condemning it as a dungeon.

One if its most famous inmates was the daring stunt driver Robert ‘Evel’ Knievel, a local Butte celebrity.

This cell was named after him because of the time he spent here for dangerous driving. According to our guide Doc Holiday also spent time here and Wyatt Earp’s brother was a police officer here.

An unimaginably cruel and miserable place, we left the jail in need of some consolation. We found some in Metals Bar, formerly The Metals Bank, warming our souls in what had previously been the bank's vault!

Another place one did not to be locked inside!

BUTTE'S MINING LEGACY

It would be a mistake to leave Butte without learning more about its mining legacy upon which its former prosperity and wealth had been founded.

Gold was mined first in Butte followed by silver. Then, in the 1880’s copper was found. This was just a year after Edison had invented his light bulb, which requiring a copper filament, had made the international demand for copper soar. Miners arrived from all over the world to work in Butte's copper mines and the population of the city exploded. At one point there were 100,000 people living in Butte, 52,000 of which were miners from thirty two countries speaking seventeen different languages, the majority being Irish, Welsh and Cornish miners. Between 1905-1917 Butte produced one third of the world’s copper. As the guide on the underground mining tour remarked, "Gold had drawn people, silver encouraged them but copper made them rich!"

Butte's Underground Mining Tour

The tour took place at the Orphan Girl Mine, so called because it was located further away from the other mines. Originally the copper from Butte's mines was taken by ship to be smelted in Wales in the UK. The men who owned these mines became millionaires and known locally as the 'Copper Kings'. Marcus Dailey was the first Copper King and William Clark the second.

The William Clark Mansion

Clark came to Butte in 1872 building Butte's first smelter. In 1884 he began construction of this three floor, thirty room mansion. It took four years to build at a cost of $260,00. The lavish interior is richly decorated in hardwoods and its nine fireplaces are adorned with imported tiles capped by hand carved mantles to match the room's decor.

William Clark went on to found Las Vegas and at one point was the richest man in world, a position he lost in 1900 when J.P. Morgan, the owner of The Anaconda Mining Company, won it from him. The two men became great rivals. On his death bed Clark made his children promise they would not sell out to Morgan, three weeks after he died they did just that.

The reconstruction of the town recreates 1890’s Butte with nearly thirty five historical structures and buildings.

The Miner's Dry

This is where the miners changed out of their wet clothes, washing out the grease & dirt with borax soap after their shift. Some of the ground water was so acidic that after just a few shifts it had destroyed the miner's clothes.

Before the miner's dry was available the men often walked the several miles home in wet clothes. During the harsh Butte winters when the temperatures could be as low as 50 degrees below zero the men often caught pneumonia and died. The miners dry allowed the men to dry off and change into clean clothes to try to prevent this happening.

The mine operated seven days a week there were five hundred shafts. A fascinating collection of artifacts, tools and machinery were on display.

We were told copper was known as peacock ore because before it was fired it was a bright green and blue color. It was a felon and instant dismissal to converse with the mine shaft engineer, the only mine employee to have received any formal training. Once inside the mine it was easy to understand the importance of his role. It was vital that he was never distracted, the lives of all that descended these perilous mines shafts were dependent on this engineer's constant vigilance.

Outside the museum it had somehow become mid-winter, it was perishing cold and we were grateful to escape the snow and bitter temperatures, somewhat bizarrely, by entering a mine. Miners' helmets with lights were produced for us to wear and we followed our guide by foot down into the mine.

Without our lamps it was pitch black. Up until 1910 the miners only had candle light to guide them. A highly unreliable source of light and it was very dangerous. If miners became trapped in the mine, with no light they would become permanently blind within a few days.

We walked a fair distance into the mine passing several piece of original mining equipment.

A mine shaft elevator.

The miners communicated with the shaft engineer by ringing the bell a set number of times.

Looking down the shaft it was possible to see the water at the bottom, it looked a long way down!

It was a fascinating tour. Back outside we drove passed the snow covered terraces of the former mining area. Close by was the infamous Berkley Pit, a large truck-operated open-pit copper mine operational until 1982. By 1980 nearly 1.5 billion tons of material had been removed from the Pit, including more than 290 million tons of copper ore. The pit enabled Butte to claim the title 'The Richest Hill on Earth'. Today the pit is extremely toxic, laden with heavy metals and dangerous chemicals that leach from the rock. Impressive strides have been made to reduce its toxicity but it currently it remains as a hazardous blight on the landscape.

We had arrived in Butte that morning in a snow storm which seemed determined to stay. A very wintery scene was waiting for us back by the Big Hole River. It had been a full and interesting day stepping back into the past.

The next few days we stayed close to home, sadly unable to fish or float the river bundled up by a log fire!

I had my doubts as to whether the weather was going to permit us to continue our journey.

My driver of course was undaunted. Ice scraper and snow chains at the ready, three days later we set off again, heading 300 miles north to Glacier National Park, Montana!

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Our final morning at Yellowstone was possibly the most incredible. The clear blue skies probably helping to make our final Yellowstone stop, the Midway Geyser Basin, look even more spectacular. The basin was only a five minute drive from where we'd been staying, and was most definitely a dramatic au revoir to this wondrous place.

Midway Geyser Basin

Following the 1/2 mile board walk trail by the banks of the aptly named Firehole River. The hydrothermal sights we were about to see were both breathtaking and astonishing.

Firehole River

Each day, water from the hot springs and geysers in the Midway Geyser Basin pours nearly 500 gallons per minute of steaming water into the adjacent Firehole River. Scalding, bubbling ribbons rush down the rocks into the river below.

Excelsior Geyser Crater

The first geyser, just above the river, was the Excelsior Geyser. When Excelsior erupted in the 1880's, it reached heights of up to 300 feet. The sheer violence of its force formed the crater's jagged edge rupturing its underground system and causing eruptions to cease, it was thought forever.

However, on September 14 1985, the Excelsior Geyser roared back to life with forty seven hours of major activity. Despite its erratic pattern, this geyser still contributes to the gallons of boiling water pouring into the river.

The Microbial Mat

Around the edges of the rugged craters in the basin, thousands of years of past life have been preserved.

Microbes have grown in the run off channels extending from the geysers to become buried alive. The hot flowing water in the channels has deposited a crust of silica minerals called sinter which has helped preserve the shape of the resulting microbial mat. As new mats have grown, more layers have developed.

The Grand Prismatic Spring

This stunning pool of golden, burnt umbers and blue is often referred to as a 'Prism of Light', and 'Spectrum of Life'. One of the most brilliant of Yellowstone's hot springs, it is perhaps the most beautiful and the most spell binding. The intense blue color is caused by the sunlight being scattered by fine particles suspended in the water.

Grand Prismatic Spring is the largest spring in Yellowstone. It's massive expanse spans approximately 200 feet across the water. With temperatures normally exceeding 160F, the spring is normally cloaked in steam. Incredulously, deep below the spring, magma from an active volcano still heats water which rises to the surface through fissures in the rocks, a further part of the scorching water streaming into the Firehole River.

A living forest

Minerals dissolved in the hot water are deposited and gradually build up the terraced shoulders of the springs. Within the rainbow of golden colors microbes exist in thick mats of vertical forests, barely a few inches deep. Those near the top (similar to a forest canopy) use sunlight to perform photosynthesis which fuels the mat's community. Organisms further below the mat (similar to a forest understory) derive energy produced by those at the surface. They perform vital functions decomposing and recycling nutrients to the mat's canopy just like their counterparts in a forest. The lifeforms found here have helped scientists understand the types of life that developed on earth billions of years ago

The Grand Prismatic Spring has some stunning neighbors:

The Thermal Pool

The Opal Pool

The Turquoise Pool

It was hard to leave this entrancing place and as I already know, it's impossible to forget....

We headed through the park from Madison to pass the edge of the Caldera one last time.

The distant snow capped peaks of the mountains were a stunning backdrop to the snaking Madison River as we made our way back towards the small town of West Yellowstone.

Those mountains loomed closer as we proceeded on Highway '20' into Montana.

Ennis

Ennis was a charming western town where we stopped for lunch. Delicious food and delicious people, if people can be described as such, warm and inviting!

After Ennis we climbed up onto Highway '287' arriving in the nearby historic cowboy towns, which we had no idea were even there!

Virginia City, Montana

This old western town is a living tribute monument to the bygone era when it was first settled.

The Local Saloon

All that was missing were the cowboys, there were plenty of rails to tie up the horses.

A cabin by the Big Hole River

Our destination was our friend's beautiful cabin by the river across the other side of the railway tracks.

Stretching into the distance they reminded me of the 1950's children's TV show about a western train driver, 'Casey Jones', I used to love as a small child.

And then we were there.

Our luxurious resting place for the next few nights with our dear friends, by the Big Hole River, a few miles from the tiny little hamlet of Melrose, Montana. With a view to die for!

Watching the sun dip down over the Big Hole River I thought about the last few days. The ski slopes of Deer Valley and majestic peaks of the Grand Tetons. I hope you get to visit them. And then there's Yellowstone.....

Yellowstone is truly one of the most phenomenal places on earth. A living and vibrant testament to the miraculous and often inexplicable forces of Mother Nature. It's that special somewhere that leaves its footprint in your soul creating memories you’ll cherish in your heart forever.

Start planning........

The post Day 8 of our American Road Trip ~ Yellowstone's Midway Geyser Basin & driving to Montana appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

The post The Lourmarin market, re-opening this Friday!! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

It's Christmas Eve, Christmas is so close you can almost touch it. Homes everywhere are bedecked with Christmas finery, refrigerators bulge with Christmas indulgence, for most of us the shopping's been done and the presents wrapped. Where did you shop this year? I was fortunate enough to visit the Cologne Christmas market, glittering beneath the mighty spires of the magnificent Cologne Cathedral it exceeded all expectations!

Cologne has hosted a Christmas market since 1820. There are several markets but the biggest and most famous fills the Roncalliplatz. Huddled beside the resplendence of Cologne’s cathedral, over 150 stalls sparkle and entice. Open from the last week in November until the night before Christmas Eve it thrills the several million eager Christmas shoppers who visit it each year from all across the globe.

The German Christmas markets are world famous. I've been to Christmas markets in Belgium, England and of course in France and although I've enjoyed the Christmas market in Aix-en-Provence, elsewhere I've been fairly underwhelmed. I was actually in Germany for work and after a fairly long day never mind my usual struggle with jet lag , despite it being about forty minutes away by train, the Cologne Christmas market seemed just too close to miss. It really was wunderbar, I hope I've succeeded in capturing some of its splendour below.

Christmas decorations and gifts to buy

Natural products with fire cones and cinnamon sticks.

Traditional decorative Christmas villages

Christmas baubles and decorations for the Christmas tree

Sweets and candies

Mistletoe for sale

and locally made gin!

Strudel bakers in traditional dressed looking as if they've just stepped from a Christmas card.

Delicious baked sweet treats

Cosy cabins to nestle in and sip your gluhwein

Everything sparkling with Christmas festivity and magic

If you missed the Cologne Christmas Market this year it will be back in 2020, click here for details. Maybe you've visited a Christmas market somewhere that you've loved, do let me know I'd love to hear about it.

And finally, Happy Christmas to you all. Thank you for following my blog, I hope you continue to do so in the coming year and may 2020 be filled with joy and peace for you all, in which ever corner of the world you may be!

The post The Cologne Christmas Market appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Some of most 'beautiful villages of France' plus beaux villages de France' are found in the Vaucluse region of Provence. Of the seven Vaucluse villages classified as 'plus beaux villages de France', five are in the Luberon Valley; Lourmarin and four villages perchés (hilltop villages); Ansouis, Menerbes, Gordes and Roussillon. Mostly dating from the Middle Ages and usually clustered around a château they are perched high above the region's sweeping vineyards and orchards they define this breathtaking region. Golden stone walls weathered by time, tall, shaded, narrow streets, occasionally splashed with sunlight as the sun momentarily casts its rays to peep around the corners as the day unfolds. Radiating their own unique charm and all within a few miles of one another, one cannot be failed to be captivated.

Ansouis

Ansouis is the first of the 'beautiful villages of France' we are going to visit. A meandering collection of winding, cobbled streets and brightly coloured shutters. Lying in the southern Luberon, it is just 15 minutes (6.5 miles) from Lourmarin, tiny but captivating!! Don't miss a peek into its incredibly well preserved chateau which dates back to 961 to admire its incredible collection of 17th and 18th century furniture and tapestries and the neighbouring pretty little church St Martin.

Ansouis has an excellent restaurant La Closerie (Boulevard des Platanes, 84240 Ansouis Tel: +33 (0)4 90 09 90 54 ) charming and elegant with delicious food but make you sure you book!

There is also a slightly bizarre little museum, Musée Extraordinaire set in a recreated underwater grotto housing the collection of one man's diving finds, it is open most afternoons!

Ménerbes

You will find the delightful, fortified village of Ménerbes on the other side of the valley from Lourmarin (14 miles away) just beyond Bonnieux. Ménerbes has been home to many artists and writers. Picasso lived within its enfold and Peter Mayle wrote his best seller ‘A Year in Provence' here.

Ménerbes has several beautiful renaissance properties and in the town hall square, Place de l’Horloge, you'll find a 17th century belfry and the lovingly restored ‘Maison de la truffe et du vin‘ where you can sample local truffles and wines. There are several places to eat. Market day is Thursday and there is a really good lavishly stocked épicerie open most days!

You can sample wonderful local Luberon vintages at the nearby domains. The wonderful Domaine de Marie and on your way on to Gordes, Domaine de la Citadelle, home to the Corkscrew museum, a fascinating, collection of over 1,000 corkscrews showcasing the history of the corkscrew.

Gordes

Gordes, is our next 'beautiful villages of France' and is another 7 miles further, on the opposite side of the valley floor. Following the olive tree flanked hairpins, the road will begin to straighten and as you turn one of the last corners you will suddenly be greeted by a breathtakingly spectacular view. It almost looks as if someone has collected a cluster of stone buildings, grabbed them in their hand and scattered them to tumble dramatically down the  hillside....

A peek along the streets through Gordes' honey stone buildings. The ancient doorways and carefully restored stone-faced buildings preserve the stories of centuries of history.

L'Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

On your way to the next of the 'beautiful villages of France' Roussillon, don't miss L' Abbaye Notre-Dame Sénanque, a Cistercian Monastery nestled at the foot of the hills below Gordes. It looks at its most splendid when the surrounding lavender fields are in full bloom, around late June each year.

At this time of year, in early spring. the lavender fields look more like rows of fat little hedgehogs, you'll pass many of them on your approach to Roussillon.

Roussillon

Roussillon, the fifth of our 'beautiful villages of France', is famous for its vibrant blood orange colours ~ the natural pigment of the surrounding rock, the rich, vibrant ochre.

The Roussillon ochre bathed in late afternoon sunlight

Driving back towards Lourmarin, you'll be spoiled by the incredible views before winding your way back through Bonnieux and down to the southern side of the Valley where Lourmarin will lay waiting for you.

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Many of you have been asking Shutters and Sunflowers
“where are you?”
“why haven’t there been any posts?”

Well before I explain, firstly Happy New Year!
Somewhat belated, but surely it’s never too late to send good wishes?

The truth is, apart from the annual tangle with wrapping paper, tinsel and mince pies,
I have been busy.
Busy designing a new site for Shutters and Sunflowers which I will be able to share with you very soon!

I hope the new Shutters and Sunflowers will be more informative, easier to navigate
and finally resolve the issue that has been the source of great frustration;
drum role ~ easier to comment!

So, yes I'm still here, back in beautiful Northern California 
after my travels in Britain 
Amsterdam
 Uzes 
Lourmarin & The Luberon

So keep an eye on your inboxes,
a new look for ‘Shutters and Sunflowers’ is just around the corner.

Thank you all, as always, for your support
and I look forward to sharing more with you in 2017.

The post New shutters and fresh sunflowers for 2017! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Do you remember being a small child and the wonder and magic of Christmas?
The excitement and anticipation and most of all the magic;
Father Christmas and reindeer landing on snow covered roof tops,
woodland creatures creating their own celebrations,
a sparkling world of make believe which fired your imagination and filled you with joy?

Our favourite Christmas stories

Our favourite Christmas films

The post The magic of Christmas... appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.