I have strolled through the beautiful Carmel Mission many times but when I visited it recently I felt as if I’d stepped through a portal and arrived in Europe. Maybe the sense of familiarity and the past was so profound because I’ve wandered the cloisters of so many ancient churches and cathedrals in Europe, particularly in France and England. But in this historic building, on a sun-drenched, spring morning with the sky wearing her best cornflower blue bonnet, the lavender blooming and the air perfumed with flowers it felt that I was no longer in Carmel, California but 5000 miles away, basking in the peaceful serenity of a place of worship, somewhere in a small European village, maybe even in Provence.

My time at the mission inspired to discover its' story. All ten year old children in California study Mission history but neither of our children attended 4th grade and I’m embarrassed to admit that until now all I knew was that the missions were established as part the colonization of California by Spanish priests and one in particular, Father Junípero Serra. I also have a personal reason to learn more. As many of you know, we’re building a house in Carmel, it's located on Serra Avenue and steps away is a memorial and statue of this esteemed man, but who was he?

Junípero Serra Memorial, Serra Avenue, Carmel

Father Junípero Serra

Junípero Serra was born Miguel José Serra Ferrer on November 24, 1713 in Petra, on the Spanish Balearic island of Mallorca. He was the son of peasant farmers, the 3rd of 5 children. At the age of 16, as a close follower of St. Francis of Assisi, Miguel entered the Franciscan friary and took the name Junípero. Before his ordination he spent 17 years an academic, earning his a doctorate in 1744 as a Professor of Philosophy and was regarded as a bright, articulate scholar, speaker and writer.

The statue of Father Junípero Serra in the Carmel Mission garden

In 1749, Father Junípero Serra, aged 36, responded to a call for Franciscan missionaries to the New World, he left Mallorca and after a long and difficult voyage, on December 8, 1749 he arrived at the port of Vera Cruz, Mexico. From there he walked to Mexico City, a grueling 24 day journey during which he injured his leg, an affliction that made walking difficult for him for the rest of his life. He spent the next 17 years preaching to the indigenous people of Mexico, for nine years in the rugged, mountainous Sierra Gorda region of North-Central Mexico and the following 8 years in coastal villages and mining camps.

In 1767, when King Charles III of Spain banished the Jesuits from all Spanish territories, the 14 Jesuit missions in Baja California were suddenly left unstaffed. The Franciscans were asked to take them over and Father Junípero Serra was appointed the new Superior of the region. In 1768, Jose de Gálvez, the Spanish inspector-general decided to establish presidios (military garrisons) and missions in Alta California, (present day California) as a deterrent against Russian and British rivals. The following year Father Serra asked to join an expedition to establish missions in San Diego, the Monterey Bay area, and the Santa Barbara Channel area. After another fraught journey, on June 27, 1769 Father Serra reached San Diego where he founded the first mission. In April 1770 he founded the Presidio  (military base) and 2nd mission in Monterey moving it in 1771 to its current location beside the Carmel River where it became known as The Carmel Mission (also known as San Carlos Borromeo) and became the headquarters of all mission operations in Alta California.

The location of the Carmel Mission Cross, put here by Father Junípero Serra in August 1771

There is evidence of human habitation in California dating back to over 15,000 years. When Father Serra arrived in Carmel he found only 500 people living there, the Rumsen people, spread out across 5 villages, some year round some seasonal. Showing nothing but kindness and respect, Father Serra reached out to these people to teach them about his Christian faith.

Original stone church walls and bell tower, at the Carmel Mission quarried from the Santa Lucia Mountains

From the Carmel Mission Father Serra oversaw the planning, construction, and staffing of a total of nine missions: San Diego de Alcalá (1769), San Carlos Borromeo (Carmel) (1770), San Antonio de Padua (1771), San Gabriel Arcángel (1771), San Luis Obispo de Tolosa (1772), San Francisco de Asis (1776), San Juan Capistrano (1776), Santa Clara de Asis (1777), and San Buenaventura (1782). He was also present at the founding of the Presidio of Santa Barbara (1782). It is estimated he travelled about 6000 miles on foot to supervise mission work and to confer the sacrament of Confirmation.

Founding of the Missions

The missions were all established near Native American settlements next to fertile agricultural land and a reliable water source. There were careful negotiations with the local Indians whose support was crucial, without it a newly built mission could be destroyed. These people were enticed to join the missions by the promise of a stable food supply and the offer of protection. If they joined, they were then expected to abide by Spanish law.

Cloisters at The Carmel Mission

Initially the Indians lived in traditional conical-shaped houses made of tree branches. They then built permanent houses made of adobe bricks close to the mission church. They were allowed to travel outside the mission to visit kin, to hunt or for trade and military purposes. Each mission was staffed by 1 or 2 Franciscan priests with Native American supervisors and with 5-7 soldiers who acted as guards and a police force. At the height of the mission period, as many as 1,500 native people lived under the jurisdiction of a mission. Over 80 different languages were spoken many of which were not understood by each tribe. To overcome the difficulties this created the missionaries composed short books about the Christian faith in native languages, younger people were taught Spanish and others learned it through their dealings with soldiers and settlers. To prevent conflict between rival Indian tribes the Padres encouraged marriage between the tribes.

Daily life in the Missions

The missions were all working farms. Cattle were raised for food and to trade hides and a variety of agricultural goods were produced, wheat, fruits, vegetables, grapes for wine and olives for oil.

Traditionally the local Indians wore little clothing. Women wore just skirts made of animal skin or woven plants and apart from ceremonial dances or special occasions men were normally naked. To the Padres, nakedness was a sign of poverty, so all who entered the mission were given a long sleeved shirt called a cotón, and a blanket, both were made of wool. Women received a woolen petticoat and men a breechclout to cover their groin area. A new set of garments was handed out annually.

Everyone had a role to play at the mission working about five hours a day during autumn and winter and up to seven hours a day during spring and summer. Sundays were for rest and religious services, in addition to special Catholic feast days which could be as many as 92 a year.

Inside the Carmel Mission Basilica

Each day began with prayers and mass, followed by breakfast, normally a corn soup called atole, still popular in Mexico today. At midday everyone would gather for prayers and lunch, normally boiled wheat, corn, peas, beans, vegetables and fruit.

In the Carmel Mission kitchenThis was followed by a nap or siesta, as was the Spanish tradition. Work then resumed until sunset when everyone gathered again for prayers and supper which would be similar to breakfast but often with beef which was widely eaten. Meals would be taken communally or in families' homes.

The Mission Kitchen at the Carmel Mission

In addition to traditional farming, specialized workers made soap, tanned leather, wove or were blacksmiths. Men were often vaquers (cowboys), or shepherds, cobblers, masons, carpenters, blacksmiths, tanners and farmhands. Women attended to washing, sewing or grinding wheat. Most work was done on a quota system, once their quota was met, the people were allowed free time.

Farm equipment used at the Carmel Mission

Indian men also often served on military expeditions and helped protect the missions. The Catholic Fathers kept records about the number of people they administered the sacraments to which sadly reveal a high mortality rate. This was often because of exposure to diseases carried by Spanish and Mexican soldiers and settlers who visited the missions in addition to the primitive nature of local medicine and lack of doctors.

The Grand Sala at the Carmel Mission where guests were entertained, the terra cotta flooring and furnishings are original

Father Serra fought the Spanish authorities for control over the missions urging them to establish an overland route to Alta California, which led to Juan Bautista de Anza establishing settlements at San Francisco in 1776 and at Los Angeles in 1781. As the number of missions grew so did Father Serra’s own political power because in addition to their religious role the missions also served political and economic purposes. The number of civilian colonists with their Indian populations kept the region within Spain’s political orbit and economically they produced all the colony’s cattle and grain.

A Padre's bedroom at the Carmel Mission

During the remaining 3 years of his life, Father Junípero Serra visited the missions from San Diego to San Francisco, travelling more than 600 miles where he confirmed all who had been baptized. During his 14 years at the California Missions Father Junípero Serra confirmed 5,309 people, he founded 9 of the total 21 missions which were eventually established along the 700 mile route from San Diego to Sonoma along the El Camino Real, (The Royal Road) named in honor of the Spanish monarchy which financed the expeditions into California in their quest for empire.

Father Junípero Serra's cell at the Carmel Mission where he died

On August 28, 1784, at the age of 70 Father Junípero Serra died at The Carmel Mission. He was buried there the next day under the sanctuary floor. It was 35 years to the day that he left Cadiz, Spain for the missions of the New World.

The remaining 12 California missions were founded after Father Serra's death. Gradually some of the Indians abandoned the missions especially after 1810 when the Spanish government stopped supplying the presidios and ordered the missions to do so instead. This greatly increased the Indians’ work load which created great resentment. The missions however were never meant to be permanent institutions. The Spanish authorities felt the Indians should leave after ten years although the missionaries believed this was not enough time for indigenous people to adapt to Hispanic ways. Nevertheless, once Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821, by the mid-1830s the Franciscans had been replaced with civilian administrators and the process of secularization begun. The new administrators were unpopular with the Indians, most of the mission land was sold or distributed to the families of local ranchers or to the administrators themselves. Most Indians did not receive a land grant, and were forced to earn a living elsewhere.

The Ava Maria bell

The Ava Maria bell at the Carmel Mission was cast in Mexico in 1807 & installed in the Mission in 1820. It was removed for safe keeping by local Indians when the Mission was secularized in 1834 & was not restored to the Mission until 1925. It eventually cracked but an exact duplicate was cast in Holland in 2010. Today it hangs in its original setting on the south side of the bell tower. The wall visible here was erected in 2011 to celebrate the 300th anniversary of Father Junípero Serra's birth in 1713, it was part of a campaign to preserve the historical buildings of the Carmel Mission.

Father Junípero Serra was canonized as a Saint of the Catholic Church by His Holiness Pope Francis during his official visit to the United States on September 23, 2015. In His address His Holiness Pope Francis said:

“ Junípero Serra left his native land and its way of life. He was excited about blazing trails, going forth to meet many people, learning and valuing their particular customs and ways of life. He learned how to bring to birth and nurture God’s life in the faces of everyone he met; he made them his brothers and sisters. Junípero sought to defend the dignity of the native community, to protect it from those who had mistreated and abused it.”

On September 17 2017, His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited The Carmel Mission. The plaque commemorating his visit lays in the Bethlehem Chapel at the Mission where his Holiness spent time during his visit in personal prayer.

In His address about Father Junípero Serra, His Holiness Pope Francis said:

"and much to be envied are those who can give their lives for something greater than themselves in loving service to others...."

Whatever one's faith or beliefs, these profound words about Father Junípero Serrano beautifully and distinctly describe this humble man who gave his all for what he believed in.

Today the Carmel Mission is an active parish. You can learn more here.

If you'd like to visit, both the Basilica and Museum are open to the public:

Monday & Tuesday, CLOSED
Wednesday & Thursday 10:00 – 4:00 pm
Friday & Saturday 10:00 – 5:00 pm
Sunday 11:30 – 5:00 pm

Admission Rates
Adults: $13      Seniors (62+): $10      Youths (7-17): $7      Child (6 and under): FREE

The post The story of Father Junípero Serra and the Carmel Mission appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We have driven through France, north to south and back, (about 1000km each way), more times than I can remember. As children, both our families took holidays driving through France, often headed for Spain. Slightly crammed between siblings, before cars were air-conditioned, we both had fathers who preferred not to take the auto-routes, so the days in the car were long, yet both of us have cherished memories and a seed was sown. With our own children, especially when we lived in England, we had many holidays driving to France. Today, even though our travels begin in California we always fly to London, to see family and friends and often we then drive to France. Now we keep a car in Lourmarin, we've driven back and forth several times, sometime with just one overnight stop but with so much more of France to explore we prefer to take more time. We could easily spend a few weeks just ambling our way through this beautiful country. And I'm often asked, what route do we take and how do we know where to stay?

I'd like to say that we just stop wherever it takes our fancy, but I'm a planner and would rather know that after a long day in the car we have somewhere to rest our head for the night, preferably with easy parking and a place to eat. My go to resource is the English site Sawdays, always reliable, where we've found anything from a château with a gourmet restaurant to an old mill eating family style with just the owners and sometimes with other guests. We've spent delightful evenings with like minded, interesting people from all over the world all with stories stemming from a shared love of France. If Sawdays doesn't have good options, Hotel Guru have a very good, wide range of recommendations. They use Booking.com as their reservation tool and as a stand alone site Booking.com is good too.

Haunted by childhood trips, lasting about 8 hours, on a cross channel ferry from Southampton to Cherbourg most of which I spent in the bathroom, I was thrilled when in 1994 the Channel Tunnel opened.

Sitting in our car, traveling by car/train, under the sea, rather than over it, is far more preferable and it only takes 30 minutes!

Routes  we've taken~ places to stay & visit

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ Two night stops Solutré-Pouilly (near Maçon) & Champagne

Day 1: First night in Solutré-Pouilly 8 km (5.0 mi) west of Mâcon ~  Journey time from Lourmarin: 3hours 40mins, 350km

Accommodation: La Courtille de Solutre Rte de la Roche, 71960 Solutré-Pouilly, France

A simple, family run, modernized former inn, nestled in the village square of Solutré, in the heart of the stunning Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, with an excellent restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 90-115 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

View from the hotel of the village square of Solutré

Wines from the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation

Visit nearby:

Roche de Solutré

Overlooking the village of Solutré-Pouilly, you can't miss this incredible limestone escarpment, Le Roche de Solutré. We had no idea this rare, geological prehistoric site was there. Occupied by humans for at least 55,000 years, it is also the cradle of the Pouilly-Fuissé wine appellation. It attracted media coverage in the 1980s when President François Mitterrand began making annual ritual ascents up the peak.

Day 2: Second night in the champagne region ~ Journey time, 4hours 15mins, 417km.

Accommodation Lots of great choices on Sawdays, the place we actually stayed has since closed but this area was a good location to stay in giving us time to visit other places on route and its distance to Calais the next day (3 hours, 300km) gave us a 3rd full day to explore.

Visit on route

Dijon: The beautiful medieval city of Dijon, is en-route, and just 1hour 30mins further north. Once the home of the Dukes of Burgundy and today famous for its mustard!

Provins 2hours 50mins 250km northwest of Dijon. The UNESCO heritage site of Provins involved a detour off the most direct route north to the Champagne region but it was well worth it. A jewel of the Champagne fairs, Provins is one of the most authentic and complete 11th, 12th and 13th century medieval towns of Europe.

The city is walled by towering ramparts. its' fortified gates are still intact and remain the entry to the city.

The medieval buildings are beautifully preserved dating back to when Provins was a trading hub and host to major, annual trade fairs.

The 12th century, hilltop César Tower is a prominent site, possible to climb up and explore the ramparts and extensive views across the area.

St Quiriace Collegiate Church, Provins

Provins is an unmissable place to visit in northern France.

Day 3: Champagne Area to Calais ~Journey time, 3hours 300km

Visit on route

The Somme

This was a small detour from the autoroute, one that we've always intended to make. It's World War I heritage is both tragic and humbling, I wrote about it here. It's a place we should all visit and reflect, with so much more to see, we will return.

Battlefields of the Somme

The World War I Museum at Albert

Lochnagar Crater The detonation at Lochnagar, by the village of La Boisselle, on July 1st 1916, signaled the beginning of the Battle of the Somme. The explosion created this enormous crater, approx 30 meters (98 ft) deep and 90 meters (295 ft) in diameter.

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial ~ an incredible Canadian WWI memorial where it is still possible to walk in the original trenches.

Traveling south: Calais to Lourmarin ~ One night stop, Langres

Day 1: Night stop in Langres ~ Journey time from Calais: 5hours 20mins, 515km

Accommodation: Hotel Cheval Blanc 4 Rue de l'Estres. 52200 Langres France

Part of the Logis chain, this is a small, basic hotel, but clean and comfortable with a gourmet restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros  Dinner: 40-50 euros (plus wine) Langres is a great half-way location in the Haute-Marne between Calais and southern France.

Views of the Haute-Marne

Langres is a charming little town famous for being the home of Denis Diderot, father of the Encyclopedia. His statue takes pride of place in Langres' central square .

Day 2: Langres to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5hours 30mins, 545km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop Nitry, Chablis

Day 1: One night stop in Nitry ~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 5hours 18 mins, 545km

Accommodation: Auberge de la Beursaudière 9 Chemin de Ronde, 89310 Nitry, France.

Close to Chablis in Burgundy, this hotel is recommended by Sawdays  ~ a pretty, former priory and collection of farm buildings with wooden verandas topped with patterned Burgundian roof tiles. The simply furnished bedrooms are all decorated in the theme of a local trade; the writer, the laundress, the ploughman, the vintner, etc it’s charming and the staff are warm and friendly. The restaurant is very good and the breakfast excellent. There's a wonderful terrace in the summer, reservations essential.  Rooms per night: 80-120 euros Dinner 25- 40 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

The courtyard at Auberge de la Beursaudière

Day 2: Nitry to Calais ~ Journey time, 5hours, 511km

The vineyards of Chablis

Wine shop in Chablis

Driving south, Calais to Lourmarin ~ One stop Noyers-sur-Serein, Burgundy.

Day 1: One night stop in Noyers-sur-Serein, ~ Journey time from Calais: 5 hours 26 mins, 503 km

Accommodation: Le Prieuré 5, rue de la République, 89310 Noyers-sur-Serein, France.

This gorgeous, former priory sits on the edge of the picturesque village of Noyers-sur-Serein, one of Les beaux village de France. There are five spacious, ensuite bedrooms, decorated in a very eclectic style but beautifully equipped and comfortable. Rooms per night: 130-170 euros including an excellent breakfast. Although there is no restaurant, Le Prieuré's charming owners, Annick and Oliver speak English and are happy to help with restaurant reservations. The village is only a five minute stroll away. Highly recommended

Noyers-sur-Serein ~ allow yourself some time to explore this enchanting little town,

where time seems to have almost stood still.

Day 1: Visit on route

Beaune ~ One of the most splendid town's in Burgundy. Beaune beautifully showcases one of the architectural characteristics of this region, the multi-coloured polychrome roofs. Made of glazed, flat tiles they are carefully laid in colourful patterns. A symbol of prestige, their opulence reflected that of the owner of the building. Initially they covered many of the great 13th century cathedrals and then the princely residences of the 14th century, before becoming available to the rich urban bourgeoisie of the 15th century.

Hospices de Beaune: the wine-makers’ hospital

Beaune's most iconic building, and one of France's most prestigious historic monuments is Hôtel Dieu, or Hospices de Beaune. It was founded in 1443, by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin just as Beaune was coming out of the 100 years war, a period of unrest and plague that had decimated the countryside.

In 1457, Guillemette Levernier made the first gift of vineyards to the Hospices de Beaune, a tradition that was to continue for five centuries. Today, the wine estate is around 60 hectares, of which 50 are devoted to Pinot Noir and the rest to Chardonnay. Beaune and the Burgundy region are a truly beautiful region of France to spend time in.

Day 2: Noyers-sur-Serein to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5.5hours 555km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop in Matougues (south of Reims)

Day 1: Lourmarin to Matougues~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 7 hours 720 km

Accommodation:  Auberge Des Moissons 8 National Road, 51510 Matouges, France

Part of the Logis group, this is a modern, fairly basic hotel conveniently located just minutes from the A26 autoroute. The rooms are spacious and clean, family rooms are available. The on-site restaurant is very good, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 100-135 euros . Great breakfast 12 euros. Dinner 30- 47 euros (plus wine). A comfortable, easy night stop.

Visit on route:

Pérouges ~ One of Les beaux village de France, Pérouges is another delightful, medieval, walled town, 30km northeast of Lyon, in the Ain department. Perched on a small hill it overlooks the plain of the river Ain.

House of The Princes who lived here from 1365

Dole ~  this lovely town in Burgundy, 52km (43 minutes) south east of Dijon in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, is best known for being the birth place of Louis Pasteur, considered to be the father of vaccinations and pasteurisation.

The house in Dole where Louis Pasteur was born, December 27 1822 now a museum.

The Commemorative garden by the Louis Pasteur House

Bust of Louis Pasteur

Day 2: Matougues to Calais ~ journey time 3hours 32okm

Driving south: Lourmarin to Calais via The Normandy Beaches and The Loire Valley ~ Two stops: Crépon, Normandy, Amboise, Loire

Day 1 & 2: Two nights in Crépon, Normandy ~  Journey time from Calais: 3hours 48 mins, 368km

Accommodation Ferme de la Rançonnière, Crépon, Normandy.

A charming 3 star hotel oozing with character and charm. Traditionally furnished, some rooms with four poster beds, several family rooms available. Excellent restaurant reservations advised. Rooms per night: 90-265 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine). Excellent breakfast 16 euros each. Highly recommended.

Visit nearby: The Normandy beaches

Visiting the Normandy beaches from England is not on a direct route to southern France. Many people would choose to take the ferry from England to Le Harve or Cherbourg, but as I said earlier, I prefer the 30 minute crossing under the sea on ‘Le Shuttle, despite the longer drive once in France. We stopped here for 2 nights but could have stayed several more. Normandy is picture postcard pretty and its’ history phenomenal. You can read here about the incredible World War II D-day sites we visited:

Remembering D.Day

The Normandy beaches: D.Day, Operation OverLord

Arromanches and the Normandy Memorials

There is so much to see, including the lovely town of Bayeaux, home of the Bayeaux Tapestry, the 70 meter long tapestry which depicts the Norman conquest of England in 1066.

Further along the coast is the iconic Mont St Michel

Day 3: Pocé-sur-Cisse near Amboise in The Loire Valley ~  Journey time from Crepon, Normandy: 3hours, 311km

Accommodation: Maison de Triboulet 9 Chem. de la Basse Vallerie, 37530 Pocé-sur-Cisse, France

This is a small, 2 bedroom property meticulously renovated, with every possible attention to detail by its charming owners Nathalie and Eric who could not have made us feel more welcome. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros. Dinner: By prior arrangement, Nathalie and Eric will happily cook dinner for you which they serve in their kitchen as if you were their personal guests. Alternatively they can recommend local restaurants. Breakfast is included and is delicious, with home baked croisssants, brioche and preserves. Highly recommended.

Bedroom at Maison de Triboulet

Breakfast at Maison de Triboulet

The hosts Nathalie and Eric

The Châteaux of the Loire

There is the whole of the Loire Valley to explore, its stunning chateau and countryside. You can read a little about it here we could have spent many nights exploring, we will return!

Château du Chaumont

Day 4: Amboise to Lourmarin 7 hours 20 mins 737km

We are always loathe to leave but know it is only au revoir. Do let me know where you have found to stay on your travels through la belle France!

The post Driving through France appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Throughout the Luberon region the landscape is peppered with fields of small, round shaped lavender bushes which for almost nine months of the year lie dormant like sleeping hedgehogs. In the spring they begin to sprout and from about the middle of June their fragrant flowers burst into bloom, fanning their purple fronds along the arid ridges of Provence as they have for centuries.

The fields of Provence become splashed with soft shades of violet and lilac as an unseen paintbrush strokes the earth with color. Framed by a backdrop of rich, velvet green from the surrounding hills, with its vineyards, pine trees, orchards and olive groves, the stage is set for this annual symphony of the senses.

The lavender from Sault in the Luberon

Nowhere is the lavender more spectacular in the Luberon hills than in the fields around Sault, about an hour north of Lourmarin. The drive up through the hills and undulating plateaus of the Luberon is spectacular with breathtaking views of Mont Ventoux.

Famous for being one of the toughest climbs in Le Tour de France, Mont Vent0ux is a dramatic, 1,909 m (6,263 ft) high peak which dominates the Luberon skyline. It looks particularly splendid at this time of year with a skirt of ribboned lavender at its feet.

The picturesque little town of Sault sits high on a ridge, from mid June to the end of August the fields in the valley below are resplendent with lavender.

Every summer people flock to see the lavender and Sault's pretty streets and squares bustle with visitors.

No more so than in August during The Sault Lavender Festival which for the last 35 years has celebrated these fragrant jewels carpeting the fields at this time of year.

There are over thirty lavender species and hundreds of varietals. In this region of Provence, most lavender associated businesses grow the hybrid, lavendine. Lavendine is grown at lower altitudes than lavender at around 500-700m. (1650-2300 feet). It is tended with great expertise and surrounded by trees and fields, without pesticides.

Lavendine blooms at the end of June and to ensure it’s not overexposed to the sun is harvested from mid July to August. 40kg (89Ilbs) of flowers are needed to provide one litre (2.2Ilbs) of essential lavendine oil. When we were there in mid July the harvest had already begun.

THE STORY OF LAVENDER

Lavender has been used for medicinal purposes for centuries. Both the Greeks and the Romans recognized its’ healing properties and the Bible refers to it as ‘spikenard’ used to wash the feet of Jesus. Lavender was first used medicinally in France in the 11th century, initially in Montpellier, 160km (100 miles) from Lourmarin. In 16th century England, Queen Elizabeth I insisted on having fresh lavender throughout her residences and in the 17th century it was used as a remedy for the Great Plague in London. During the Victorian era lavender became extremely popular both in gardens and perfumed products.

Often called the ‘blue gold’ by perfume manufacturers, the story of lavender as a perfume, began in Grasse, 200 km (125 miles) from Lourmarin, in the Provencal hills above The French Riviera. In the 12th century, rather than perfume, Grasse was a center for the leather-tanning industry, and its' leather gloves were coveted by the nobility of Europe. These gloves were softened by being soaked in urine, the smell was obviously not pleasant but a local tanner resolved the problem by using a scent of rose water and spices to overcome the aroma. When Catherine de Medici, (Queen of France by marriage to King Henry II from 1547 until 1559), was presented with a pair of these scented gloves she was enchanted. Shortly afterwards, the rare scents from around Grasse, myrtle, jasmine, rose, orange blossom wild mimosa and of course lavender began to be captured and bottled. And so began Grasse's perfume legacy eventually establishing it as the perfume capital of the world.

July Lavender Festival in Apt

The Provençals are quite rightly very proud of their way of life and their traditions which often pay tribute to the bounty of the land in this beautiful region they live. Customs have been handed down through the generations, ones they still love to celebrate. The local lavender legacy is one of these and each year Apt is one of the Luberon towns that hosts a lavender festival.

Lavender products are for sale,

and the farm machinery which harvests the lavender is proudly displayed, both old

and modern.

Distilleries are brought into town and their beaming operators patiently explain how the lavender is distilled.

Hugh bales of lavender are displayed on farm carts and local children hand out sprigs to the visitors.

I'm so blessed to be able to be part of this, to live for several months of the year in this stunning part of Provence is a gift. Celebrating with these warm, generous hearted people, becoming friends with some of them and understanding their simple but profound connection to the land is so special. With its shutters and sunflowers, it vineyards and at this time of year its lavender, the Luberon is truly an enchanting place, one that I cherish, a place I'm so fortunate to be able to fit into my life, for now at least, lucky me!

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When the USA fell in love with rosé

It wasn’t that long ago that rosé wine was hard to find in USA. Initially it was often confused with white zinfandel, wine of a similar color but not similar in any other way. I can even remember rosé being dismissed as being a watered down red with half the alcohol content! But then, about ten years ago, Provençal rosé hit the American supermarket shelves and when sales exploded it sent the local vintners scampering to produce something to rival it. And small wonder that Provençal rosé has been such a success, for this subtle, pale pink shimmer in your glass, so crisp and refreshing seems to define what so many of us love about Provence. As it sparkles like sunshine, with every sip one is transported to be sitting at a bistro table below the shaded branches of gently swaying plane trees, cicadas chattering incessantly above as you ponder the biggest decision of the day, what are you going to order for lunch?

Léoube

I digress, what has this got to do with Léoube the wonderful rosé from a wine château near Bormes-Les-Mimosa in Provence? Well believe it or not the first time I tasted Léoube was not in Provence but in California. A dear friend found it at our favourite, local épicerie, Diablo Foods in Lafayette, 30 miles east of San Francisco near where we live, and we were smitten.

Daylesford

The second time I saw it was a year later, again not in Provence, but at a gorgeous organic farm shop, Daylesford, in The Cotswolds, England.

Courtyard at Daylesford

In fact, I remember it was the only wine I saw there.

Léoube wine for sale at Daylesford

Situated next to an organic farm, belonging to the Bamford family, in addition to the farm shop, Daylesford offers a collection of stunning home, gift, clothing and garden shops, a cookery school, several fabulous dining options and the Bamford Wellness Spa.

There are also several equally lovely deli style farm shops and cafés in London, click here for locations

A few weeks after my first visit to Daylesford we were having lunch at a nearby pub in the Cotswolds, The White Rabbit, in Kingham and once again Léoube featured predominantly on the menu. Intrigued we got chatting to the manager who explained, Daylesford owns the White Rabbit, Daylesford is owned by Lord and Lady Bamford who also own a château in Provence, volia Léoube!!

The bar at The Wild Rabbit pub

Organic farming, a JCB and a chateau in Provence

Their story goes something like this….. when the Bamfords, also owners of JCB (England’s equivalent to Caterpillar) bought a fairy tale château in Bormes-Les-Mimosa it came with a small vineyard.

They became friends with their neighbour, a local vintner, Jean-Jacques Ott. They dispatched some JCB’s, recruited Monsieur Ott and later his son, who helped them in the conversion of both the vineyards and the olive grove to organic production. It's an incredible success story!

In my opinion they have established one of the loveliest domaines in Provence. Under Lady Carole Bamford's expert care, just like their farm in England and Daylesford, the commitment to sustainability and nurturing the land shines.

Although rosé is the star of the show they also produce red, white and sparkling. They now export to more than thirty countries and are full of further aspirations.

The tasting room and shop at Château Léoube

The shop at Château Léoube has the same enticing ambience as Daylesford.

Shop at Daylesford

At both locations the understated, artistic displays reek of style and good taste.

The natural, 'feel good' look tugs at your soul and makes you ignore the price tag!

And let's not forget the opportunity to taste the wine!

Just down the road the story continues at The Léoube Café.

Café Léoube, Pellegrin Beach

The café and it's location on Pellegrin beach is yet another Daylesford style haven.

One that feels like you’ve arrived at a 5 star desert island.

Although we did think it was a bit much having to pay 11 euros to park the car when we had a reservation for lunch at the café.

The menu was delicious.

We chose the daurade ~ sea bass

The shop on the beach was a continuation of the same allure, brimming with temptation.

A beach version of  the ladies clothing shop at Daylesford.

The Daylesford ladies clothing shop.

Even the plates for sale at Café Léoube begged to be purchased.

Everything at Café Léoube and Pellegrin Beach is dedicated to relaxing with its laid back, feel good vibe.

We will be returning for sure; to Pellegrin Beach, Château Léoube and Daylesford of course!

Château Léoube

2387 Route de Lèoube 83230 Bormes-les-Mimosas

Café Léoube

Open from April - October for lunch and dinner reservations are essential.

Call +33 04 98 07 69 88 or book online here

Check out their summer program and the various events hosted here throughout the season.

Click here for directions to both the Château and Café at Pellegrin Beach.

Daylesford

Daylesford near Kingham Cotswolds GL56 0YG +44 (0)1608 731700

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We decided we'd like to explore a little more of the region beyond the Luberon and spend a few days on the Côte d'Azur. We were in search of a quiet, boutique hotel, one that offered good food where we could relax for a few days by a pool and feel a little indulged. With lots of places to chose from you're never completely sure if you've made a good selection until you arrive. Nestled on the cliffs above the sparkling Mediterranean, Hôtel La Villa La Duce, proved to be a gem!

About a three hour drive from Lourmarin we chose to drive across country instead of taking the autoroute. It was a scenic journey, through vast areas of sweeping vineyards into the beautiful countryside of the Var.

We stopped for lunch by the Mediterranean at the pretty beach town of Le Lavandou, just 13km west of our destination at Rayol-Canadol-sur-Mer and 30km west of the beaches of the Saint Tropez Peninsular.

Le Lavandou bustles with restaurants, shops and cafés, cheerily strung along the quay.

We wandered by the water until we found somewhere that seemed impossible to resist. Doubtless tempted by a display of one of our favourite rosés, Léoube, from nearby Bormes-Les-Mimosas. (There's a story to Léoube which I'll share next time.)

After lunch we wound our way a little further along the oleander fringed corniche. Mediterranean villas, smothered with bright purple and fushia bougainvillea clung to the hillside either side of us, painting a profusion of color along our pathway

Then we arrived at Hôtel La Villa La Duce, perched amongst the clay tiled roof tops with dazzling views from the terrace, of our beautifully appointed room, of the Mediterranean and Côte d'Azur.

Champagne and rosé were some of the offerings at cocktail hour, carefully positioned to show case the view.

As was the hotel's restaurant, Le Café l’Envol.....

The cuisine was a delicious work of art without being pretentious and it was reasonably priced.

View the menu here.

Breakfast was served on the upper terrace at Le Club Papillon with sweeping views across the glistening, blue water.

The breakfast buffet was a sumptuous feast, we certainly didn't need lunch!

After 2 days of  indulgence we decided to explore a little further and visited Gassin one of Les plus beau villages de France, a medieval village high above the beautiful Saint-Tropez Peninsular.

Jean-Luc Ducreux' incredible bronze and steel sculpture dangled by the village entrance.

Where 'Don Quixote' seemed to be guarding the secrets of this picturesque little spot.

And it was really very pretty.

A visit to one of Les beau villages never disappoints.

We stopped on the short drive back at the beach near Croix-Valmer.

Where we were enticed to stay for dinner with the sand between our toes.

Gambas et frites..... très délicieux!

We only had a few days in this little haven,

and it was hard to tear ourselves away.

Only open a few years, we've already booked to go back. If you'd like to visit Hôtel La Villa La Duce click here, it's cheaper to book direct!

Where do you like to stay on the Côte d'Azur?

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Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

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Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The Floating Harbours at Arromanches

There were many factors contributing to the success of D-Day. Strategic planning, deception and the successful outcome of some of the initial targets was critical, such as Pegasus Bridge, and Point du Hoc. But the major challenge of landing at Normandy was that it had no harbor. The beaches were suitable for landing heavy armor and it was within range of Allied air cover. Once liberated, the Normandy port of Cherbourg would provide vital access for further supplies but there was no where to dock ships and unload vehicles and tanks.

With remarkable intuition, Churchill had discussed this issue back in May 30th 1942, determining that if there was no port, one would have to be built. Huge mulberries comprising of floating roadways and pier heads which would go up and down with the tide were constructed in England, towed across the Channel and assembled off the Normandy coast. Misinformation spread by the Allies helped to ensure that the enemy were expecting an invasion at Calais, not Normandy and Arromanches-les-Bains was chosen to set up Churchill's incredible floating harbor.

Churchill's floating harbor is still visible at the picturesque little town of Arromanches-les-Bains.

Despite the British resources being at breaking point, they completed the work within 9 months. Arromanches was liberated by nightfall on June 6th and the first ships scuttled the next day. In order to avoid rough seas, huge hollow concrete blocks and old hulks were sunk to form a breakwater, by June 8th the first of these Phoenix Caissons had been submerged and on June 14th the first cargoes were unloaded.

Photograph of The Mulberry Harbours at The Arromanches 360 Cinema

The port at Arromanches was totally operational by the beginning of July, so later that month when Montgomery launched his large-scale offensive against Caen, up to 18,000 tonnes of goods were unloaded daily. An incredible engineering feat, this newly created port was the key to victory in Europe.

The remains of the Mulberry Harbours are still on the beach at Arromanches today.

Several dozen Phoenix Caissons continue to provide a calm and sheltered stretch of water.

 D-Day 75 Garden

High on the cliff over looking overlooking Arromanches and the Mulberry Harbors is this new garden memorial. It was designed to pay tribute to the D-Day veterans on the 75th anniversary of D-Day.

The statue depicts 97 year-old Bill Pendell MD looking back at himself as a 22 year-old landing on the beaches 75 years earlier.

The garden was first exhibited in 2019 at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, during The Chelsea Flower Show. It was gifted to the mayor of Arromanches-les-Bains by Field Marshall Montgomery's grand-children to remain as lasting legacy to D-Day.

Arromanches 360 : Circular cinema

The fascinating 360 degree cinema which brings the D-Day story to life is perched just below the D-Day 75 garden. It is well worth a visit. Tickets can be bought online, click here for details

Arromanches Museum

In the town itself, is the Arromanches Museum, also should not be missed. Click here for details

The Normandy Memorials

Visiting The Normandy Memorials like all war memorials and cemeteries is very emotional. The sheer scale of human sacrifice is intensely humbling. It's a debt that can never be repaid.

British Memorial at Normandy

It is hard to believe that until 2019 there was no official British Memorial at Normandy. Situated near the village of Ver-sur-Mer it is managed by the Common Wealth War Graves Foundation.  It was unveiled by The Prince of Wales, on 6 June 2021, the 77th anniversary of D-Day.

The pathway leading to the main monument is flanked with commemorative pillars that tell the Normandy story.

THE BEACHES AND THE BRIDGEHEAD 6 June -15 June 1944

STRUGGLING TO ADVANCE 16 June -30 June 1944

BATTLE FOR CAEN 1 July- 15 July 1944

This incredible story continues as the path way continues towards the main monument

THE BREAK-OUT BEGINS 30 July-15 August 1944

VICTORY IN NORMANDY 16 August-31 August 1944

And then you arrive at the monument's center.

On the main walls words of key World War II leaders have been chosen for each face. On the front, motivational encouragement from Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery's before he led his soldiers into battle:

“To us is given the honor of striking a blow for freedom which will live in history And in the better days that lie ahead men will speak with pride of our doings” Field Marshal B.L. Montgomery

On the opposite side, running up from the beach is a statue of those soldiers.

They are facing the other side of the monument, engraved with Churchill's famous 'We shall fight on the beaches' speech alongside King George VI's inspiring D-Day broadcast:

“Four years ago our nation and empire stood alone against an overwhelming enemy with our backs to the wall tested as never before in our history once more the supreme test has to be faced this time the challenge is not to fight to survive but to win the final victory for the good of all and for a world in which goodness and honor may be the foundation of the life in every land” King George VI June 6 1944

There is also the support offered by Charles de Gaulle from London, aimed specifically at the French:

"The supreme battle has begun . An immense force of attack or to us of assistance has begun to be deployed from the shores of old England. France submerged for four years, but by no means reduced or defeated stands ready to participate. From behind the heavy cloud of our blood and our tears the sun of our grandeur is starting to reappear.”  Charles de Gaulle June 6 1944

And then there are the names. Thousands of brave British soldiers who lost their lives, for all of us, on the beaches of Normandy............

Harry Billinge

One of the soldiers who landed on Gold Beach all those years ago, was a young 17 year-old soldier, Harry Billinge. Harry survived while all around him his friends fell. He has never forgotten them and throughout his life Harry strived continually to champion the building of this memorial. He was able to be here when it was opened and only passed away a few weeks before my own visit. Much loved by all who knew him and a hero of Normandy you can read his heartfelt tribute here.

Like all the Normandy memorials, it is free to visit this thought provoking, astounding place, sat above the beach known as 'Gold Beach' on D-day. Click here for more information

The Canadian Memorial

The Canadian War Cemetery, is situated about 11km east of the British Memorial, closer to Caen, at Bény-sur-Mer.

At this beautiful, tranquil spot we remember Canadian soldiers from the ‘Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada House’, now known simply as Canada House.

The Canadians landed at 'Juno Beach'.

The 2,049 Canadians who lie here were killed either on that beach or during the subsequent month-long Battle of Caen, or were executed while prisoners of war.

This immaculately kept memorial with its beautiful plants and shrubs is one of two Commonwealth burial grounds also maintained by the The Commonwealth War Graves Commission devoted to Canadians. Click here for more information

The second memorial can be found at the Juno Beach Centre and memorial park near Courseulles-sur-Mer. The centre runs its own guided tours of the museum and the beach, and the German beach defences there can be visited underground (April to October) Click here to learn more

The American Normandy Memorial and Cemetery

The American Normandy Memorial is at Colleville-sur-Mer. If you were driving along the coast you'd probably visit the Canadian Memorial first (45km to the east of the American) then the British (27km east) before continuing to the American. Situated above Utah Beach where the Americans landed there is an informative museum which tells the American's D-Day story. The memorial is run by the American Battle Monuments Commission

The entrance to the memorial gardens is stunning.

Like the other memorials, the American memorial looks down 'Omaha Beach' one of the D-Day beaches where the Americans Landed, 'Utah Beach' being the other.

The thousands of white crosses are a stark reminder of the tragic loss of life. Like their British and Canadian allies these young American boys landed in Normandy with no thought of personal gain but to fight for the freedom of the world. The fighting on Omaha beach on D-Day was one of the the bloodiest with over 3000 casualties.

The memorial pays tribute to those soldiers. Click here for more information about visiting this site.

Ultimately the Allies were successful, the careful planning, deception and strategy meant that three months after D-Day, Normandy was captured, it marked the beginning of the end. Yet the loss of life which the memorials attest to, was horrendous.

There are many other sites to visit at Normandy which remember what happened there on D-Day.  Click here to learn more and plan your visit.

words of General Bradley spoken about the landings, which I read at the American memorial, will remain with me and seem an appropriate way to end this post:

"The battle belonged that morning to the thin, wet line of khaki that dragged itself ashore on the channel coast of France" 

General Omar Bradley US First Army Commander June 6 1944

A line of khaki we should never forget.....

The post Arromanches and The Memorials of Normandy appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

D-Day, June 6 1944, known by the brilliant strategists that oversaw it as 'Operation Overlord', is perhaps one of the most meticulously researched and planned military operations ever executed. An immortal day, forever written in the sands of time that mercifully changed the fate of the world in the battle to overcome oppression. Four years earlier, faced with impossible odds and standing almost entirely alone, the newly elected British prime minister, Winston Churchill, had inspired his nation and perhaps the entire world that, whatever the cost, he would lead them in this battle for freedom. It was a promise that he kept.

“...... we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the landing grounds, we shall fight in the fields and in the streets, we shall fight in the hills; we shall never surrender.”  Winston Churchill June 4 1940

No matter the length of time that has passed or the number of times one visits, the momentous sacrifice and achievement of Normandy remains both humbling and astoundingly impressive. Never more so than this time with my eighty-seven year old mother, watching her at the British Normandy Memorial gazing up at the statue of the soldiers, remembering her father who fought and the war that stole her childhood.

Gazing out across the calm waters and clear skies on an early summer morning it seemed almost impossible that this was the stage for such terrifying theatre.

Then the horizon flickered and you could almost hear the chilling noise of battle, imagining the horrific assault that took place here nearly eighty years ago when thousands of Allied troops landed on the Normandy Beaches. Assaulted by heavy gunfire, battling through the waves, their boots sinking into the sand, surrounded by the agonized cries of the dying and stench of death they stormed these shores.

A photograph from the Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

With the fate of the entire free world resting on their shoulders, supported throughout the day by Allied naval and air services, sixty two thousand British soldiers landed on Gold and Sword Beaches, fourteen thousand Canadians on Juno Beach and seventy three thousand Americans on Omaha and Utah Beaches.

Against all odds, with an armor of courage and determination, these predominantly very young men plundered through rapidly expanding, watery, graveyards, knowing at any moment they could fall into the same final resting place. By nightfall thousands of lives had been sacrificed but the door to liberation had been opened, the battle for Normandy begun.

Pegasus Bridge

Pegasus Bridge, (originally called the Bénouville Bridge after its neighbouring village), was one of the first objectives of the entire Normandy invasion. Along with the bridge over the River Orne bridging the gap between Caen and the sea, these bridges were of immense strategic importance.

The replica of the original bridge at the Pegasus Bridge Memorial

Just after the clock struck midnight on the dawn of June 6th 1944, six Horsa gliders carrying assault troops were cast off from a Halifax tug aircraft six miles from their target.

Painting at The Pegasus Bridge Memorial of Horsa gliders landing at Pegasus Bridge

Within the first thirty minutes of the D-Day operation, the bridges were captured by the 2nd (Airborne) Battalion Oxfordshire and Buckinghamshire light Infantry, (part of the 6th Airborne Division) led by Major John Howard. The precision and courage of these pilots is considered one of the war's finest feats of airman ship.

None of the existing gliders remain in existence but in 2002 the D-Day Commemoration Committee financed a full-sized replica.

During the Normandy Landings a total of three hundred & eighteen Horsa gliders landed with the 6th British Airborne Division. These gliders could transport up to thirty troops with a jeep and trailer or six pound anti-tank gun, motorbikes and bicycles.

This photograph of Pegasus Bridge shows the three Horsa gliders in the background. The trees to the right were later cut down and used as decking for the Bailey bridges across the River Orne and Caen Canal.

Photograph at The Pegasus Beach Memorial of the original Pegasus Bridge on D-Day

For information about visiting The Pegasus Bridge Memorial click here

The Atlantic Wall

Field Marshal Erwin Rommel masterminded the defenses of Europe with a vast network of coastal fortifications known as the 'Atlantic Wall'. Built between 1943 -1944 they covered 1670 miles from The North Cape in Norway to the border between Spain and France. The strongest fortifications faced Great Britain. There were also thousands of sea and land mines and long range artillery capable of shooting up to twenty five miles known as ‘Rommel’s Asparagus’. In addition to the natural obstacles of the weather, sea and steep cliffs these defenses had to be overcome.

The Merville Coast Battery

The fortified Merville Coast Battery were part of Rommel's defenses. Its guns protected Sword Beach and had to be eliminated before the D-Day landings could take place.

Rommel's 'Atlantic Wall' fat the Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial

Early on D-Day at 0.05, seven hundred men from the British Parachute Battalion were dropped scattering over many miles, only hundred and fifty of them landed on target.

Photograph at Pegasus Bridge Memorial of a Paratrooper from Britain's 9th Parachute Battalion

With only one medium machine gun, no mortars or mine detectors and a minimum number of explosives these paratroopers heroically overran the enemy. Just half of them survived, one thousand men from the 6th Airborne division were killed.

Pointe-Du-Hoc

In addition to Pegasus Bridge the other critical place needing to be captured on D-Day was Pointe-Du-Hoc. Before the war Pointe -du-Hoc was a quiet, coastal spot which the Germans had transformed into a fortified stronghold protecting a battery of heavy guns.

The Cliffs at Pointe-du-Hoc and craters created by allied bombardments

The Germans had planned to build six gun 155mm coastal gun casements at Pointe-du-Hoc to protect their guns and the soldiers.

The remains of a German gun emplacements at Pointe-du-Hoc

However Allied bombardment and sabotage by the French Resistance meant there were only two completed by D-Day.

Inside a German gun emplacement at Pointe-Du-Hoc

This heavily defended point upon the cliffs had artillery with a range of twelve miles with the potential to destroy both ships and soldiers on Omaha and Utah beaches. Seizing Pointe-du-Hoc was one of the highest priorities on D-Day.

The tip of Pointe-du-Hoc

Its' strategic position on a narrow outcrop made an attack from the rear or a parachute drop almost impossible. An assault from the front up the perilous cliff faces below the beach was the only choice.

The cliff faces at Pointe-Du-Hoc

Following an extensive naval bombardment, the Germans were ready to attack the small landing craft carrying two hundred and twenty five men from the 2nd US Ranger Battalion. Under the command of Colonel James E. Rudder it arrived in the early morning of June 6 1944. Battling fierce gunfire and hand grenades the rangers launched their grappling hooks and rope ladders scaling the 90 foot surrounding cliffs and within twenty five minutes one hundred and fifty survivors had seized Pointe-Du-Hoc. A foothold in Normandy had been established and the liberation of France begun.

Once the Rangers had overcame the enemy they found Allied bombing raids had damaged one of the enemy guns which the Germans had replaced with wooden dummies. In addition, the guns pointing at Utah beach were unmanned. However the rangers were cornered against the clifftop of this tiny coastal spot and had to fight for two days until 8 June when tanks came to their rescue. By then there were just ninety men left.

The Memorial at Pointe-Du-Hoc

For information to visit Pointe-du-Hoc click here

Operation Fortitude

One of the contributing factors of the success of the D-Day landings was the elaborate web of deception, spun by the allies, ahead of time. Operation Fortitude involved setting up phantom field armies opposite occupied locations in Norway and Calais and helped to convince the Nazis that this was where the attack would take place.

Hundreds of fake parachutes were dropped away from the Normandy Beaches to divert attention.

German double agents working for the Allies fed false information. Deception went as far as using an Australian actor, Lieutenant M. Clifton James, to impersonate Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery. James was placed in locations to mask Montgomery’s true location.

The battle for Normandy did not end on June 6^th but took three, long grueling months. The loss of life was devastating especially on D-Day itself. After four, miserable years of occupation, despite the subsequent terrible events the French welcomed the Allies. But liberation came at a severe cost. As troops advanced towards Paris in August 1944, 225 000 were dead, wounded or missing; 134 000 Americans, 91 000 British, Canadian and Poles and 18 000 French civilians. The Germans had more than 400 000 casualties as they retreated across France.

Lives sacrificed in the name of liberty so future generations could live in freedom. How tragic that a similar bitter fight for democracy against evil and tyranny is occurring right now in Ukraine.

This has been a long post, thank you for staying with me there's much more to share. Next time I will take you to Normandy's cemeteries and memorials, an enduring testament to the brave and courageous, those who made the ultimate sacrifice, for each and everyone of us......

The post D-Day: Operation Overlord ~ The Normandy Beaches appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.