'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

"Life is what happens when you're busy doing other things." Words of wisdom I've often heard from a dear friend, for indeed sometimes life does throw you off course and you find yourself in unexpected circumstances. Such was our story when we returned from Lourmarin to California last December when unexpected knee surgery meant that the biggest decision of my day became whether I should attempt to stand. But nothing lasts forever, time heals and despite the uncertainty of whether I'd be able to travel, just a few weeks ago we were outside the door to our little house. It felt a million miles away from our 'other life' but we were back.

As we strolled down our street into the village the next morning everything was just as we'd left it. When we're not there, Lourmarin, and our life there, really does feel 'a million miles away'. It takes on a dream like quality and after a while I find myself questioning, is it really as special as my reminiscences? The fact that on our return it actually is, always brings me such joy, why do I persistently doubt myself?

Sipping coffee outside Café Gaby, watching the world stroll by, our morning baguette just purchased, it felt as if we'd never been away.

A few days before Easter, when visitors would be returning, the village was ready. Restaurant tables and chairs were neatly arranged and fresh flowers carefully placed. The shops were newly stocked with temptations, their enticing displays spilling out onto the streets.

On Friday market day the village began to bustle.

At this time of year local asparagus and strawberries dominate the grocery stalls, deliciously sweet with their promise of summer.

The band was back in their regular spot filling the air with a their melodious sound, contributing to the festive atmosphere.

And within days we were returning to the places we love.

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ~Sunday market day

The Antique Fair at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the Antique Capital of Provence with its plethora of antique shops and galleries. Each Sunday, alongside a traditional Provencal market, there is an antique market. In addition, twice a year, a spectacular Antiques Fair settles itself within this delightful little town. We wandered from stall to stall hoping to discover an irresistible temptation!

Tintin

This year, amongst all the antique treasures sat a Tintin display. Who doesn't remember this courageous Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy? Created by Georges Remi, a Belgian cartoonist, who wrote under the pen name Hergé, the adventures of Tintin first appeared in 1929 in Le Petit Vingtième. It became one of the most popular European comic stores of the 20th century, published in more than 70 languages with sales over over 70 million and adapted for radio, television and film. If anyone wanted a souvenir of their childhood hero, here it was!

Château la Coste

La Terrasse at Château la Coste

Sat at a brightly coloured bistro table, under the trellis at Château la Coste's La Terrasse restaurant, listening to the soft chuckle of the fountain and the charming lilting tones of excited French chatter, is one of favourite lunchtime spots.

Château La Coste is a stunning wine domain 14km from Aix-en-Provence. It showcases not only fine wine but food, (La Terrasse being just one of of its five restaurants) art, architecture and well-being.

THE ART AND ARCHITECTURE WALK

Art is a particular feature at Château La Coste. The Art and Architecture Walk is a two hour stroll between the olive groves and vines, where one meanders through the woods stopping to admire the incredible pieces of modern art which pepper the walk. I wasn't quite up for a walk that long but I'm hoping to do is soon.

Open March 1st – November 1st Everyday 10 am – 7 pm
November 2 – February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Dominating the art collection is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue 'The Crouching Spider'. The spider hovers just above the glistening water by the Art Center, its' twisting, muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the surrounding vines

This year even the trees beside the restaurants reflect the artistic vibe, adorned with golden bauble necklaces

And let's not forget the wine!

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00. Learn more here.

At the end of the day, our terrace seems to be the perfect place to enjoy a local vintage, admiring our view as slowly the sky changes color and nightfall settles itself upon the village.

And so Lourmarin is no longer a million miles away. As we settle back into our life in Provence it's now our other life that begins to flicker, rippling like reflections on the water until we return.

This time we're here for a while, battling the detritus of Brexit we have long stay visas. We have so much to look forward to, most of all just 'being' in this special place, 'busy' with the 'business of living', living in Provence. September will come quickly, and Maison des Cerises will be then be available (as it is for a short while in July & August) should you want to sample this enchanting little corner of France.

A bientôt!

The post A million miles away appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

The post Returning somewhere special, Lourmarin, our village in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

The post The Lourmarin market, re-opening this Friday!! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

It’s May and the poppies are blooming in Provence. Their tiny black faces almost obscured by their bright red hats, delicate, vibrant, petals wafting in the breeze.

Last year I was in Lourmarin admiring them. This year I should have been too but then the world stopped and everything changed.

But I know they're smiling once again, amid the olive trees, in the fields and along the country road sides.

A dotted carpet of crimson hats will be splashed in front of the Lourmarin château.

There’s no red poppies in northern California, where I live, 30 miles east of the City by the Bay. But in this beautiful, scenic area, in both the gardens and on the rolling hills above my house there are a mass of wild flowers, including local poppies.

Californian poppies, the dazzling orange little cousins of the poppies from Provence. This poppy, the Golden Poppy, is native to California. It grows wildly in great abundance and in 1903 was made the official state flower.

I'm sad to not be in Lourmarin and can you blame me....

But I'm lucky to be somewhere also very lovely, it's not too bad a view where I live!

And as an English girl, who might well be confused, living in California but passionately in love with Provence, I couldn't write about poppies without explaining their huge significance back at home.

Growing up in England, where poppies  flourish later in the year, I’d always associated them with the end of summer not the start. But most of all I think of them on Poppy Day, in November, dedicated to the remembrance of all those that fell among the fields of northern France and Belgium in World War I.

And those poppies that fringed the battlefields at Ypres in 1915 became immortalized in the words of a Canadian Soldier, Major John Macrae

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below

****

And as an English girl, so connected to the USA and France, the story of the poppies is entwined with these three places I hold so dear. For we owe the origins of the poppy as a symbol of remembrance to an American woman, Moina Michael, who having read In Flanders fields campaigned tirelessly for the poppy to be adopted as a symbol of Remembrance in the USA. In September 1920 the National American Legion agreed and inspired by Moina’s idea, a French woman, Anna Guerin, expanded it to help all those in need amongst the allies of France in Europe.

A year later, on November 11th 1921, Anna sent some French women to London to sell their artificial red poppies on Remembrance Day. It became the emblem for The Royal British Legion who every since have used the funds from Poppy Day to help a multitude of charitable causes.

Wherever you might be reading this I hope you have some flowers to brighten your day. In these difficult days of worry, whether red or orange, regardless of their color or where they grow, a bunch of flowers will cheer your spirits. Something I'm wishing for you all, with a speedy end to all uncertainty, when we we can all move freely and safely as we did before. Stay safe and well my friends.

The post The story of the poppies, in Provence and elsewhere appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Imagine staying in a glorious 19th century Provencal country estate surrounded by mighty cedars, olive trees and resplendent vineyards framed by the rolling Luberon hills of the Durance Valley. Transformed in 2013 by architect Alexandre Lafourcade, Domaine de Fontenille is now a luxury spa hotel and exceptional wine domaine, with nineteen beautifully appointed bedrooms, two restaurants and a spa. The original architecture has been carefully restored subtly blending the old and new to create this delightful haven.

Location

Situated on the outskirts of the Luberon village of Lauris, Domaine de Fontenille is 5 minutes from Lourmarin, 25 minutes from Aix-en-Provence, 45 minutes from Avignon and Marseille Airport, 50 minutes from Marseille and just over an hour from the coastal destinations of Cassis and Bandol. If you're visiting the region a stay in Fontenille would be the perfect place to explore the serenity and beauty of the Luberon.

History

The original bastide dates from 1638 and belonged to the Savornin family. In 1850 Alphonse de Savornin built the gorgeous Provencal country property we see today. His granddaughter Amélie, later developed the park like grounds. In 2014 the current owners restored and developed it to its present glory.

The 17th century vaulted cellar has become the reception hall and the old wine cellars a Center for Contemporary Art. The ground floor reception rooms opening onto the terrace have been tastefully refurbished and overlook the stunning gardens.

Wine at Domaine de Fontenille

Under the guidance of oenologist and agricultural engineer Laurence Berlemont, an expert in Provence wines, the estate has now been fully restored to the 35 hectares it was in 1748. Since 2018 the production has been totally organic.

Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille

Sample the domaine's cuvées; Amélie, Fontenille and Alphonse in white, rosé and red at the tasting rooms; Le Cave de Domaine de Fontenille (across the road from the hotel). Open every day all year: 10.00 -13.00 & 14.00 -19.00, no reservations required.

La Boutique du Lourmarin

From April 1 to September 30 tasting is also available in Lourmarin on Place de la Fontaine, 2 rue du Grand Pré: Open every day : 10.00 - 13.00 & 14.00-18.00

At any time of year Fontenille's terrace is the perfect setting to enjoy one of the domaine's vintages, surrounded by the ambience of this special place.

Restaurants at Domaine de Fontenille

Fontenille has two restaurants overseen by Chef Benjamin Pâtissier. Both profile locally sourced products about 80% from the hotel's own garden.

Le Champ des Lunes

Le Champ des Lunes is a Michelin-starred gourmet treat. Open all year, (From February to the end of May closed Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday all day). Set Menu from 58 euros. Click here for full details and reservations

La Cuisine d'Amélie

From the terrace overlooking the beautiful grounds or in the south reception rooms, La Cuisine d'Amélie offers a delicious and creative choice of small plates. Breakfast is also served here. Open all year, (February to the end of May closed Wednesday and Thursday all day). Prices between 14-20 euros. Click here for menus and reservations

Summer musical evenings

Throughout the summer the hotel hosts wonderful musical evenings set within its breathtaking grounds

Enjoy a casual BBQ supper on the terrace or come just for the music. We loved it, the food was delicious and the performances were excellent, we're looking forward to returning this year.

The Spa at Fontenille

In addition to the fitness room and 20 meter heated outdoor swimming pool Fontenille also has a spa. Combining the natural beauty of the hotel’s tranquil setting the spa offers bespoke treatments to meet client’s specific needs.

Spa Senses Day I'm excited to try one of Fontenille's special Senses Days ~ a 50 minute treatment with lunch at either La Cuisine d'Amélie, or Le Champ des Lunes restaurant and complimentary use of the hotel pool all day. A perfect indulgence to pamper oneself. Price: 155 Euros Click here for Reservations and Spa Menu

For more information about Domaine de Fontenille visit their website

Domaine de Fontenille Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris

+33 (0)4 13 98 00 00

info@domainedefontenille

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

The post Luxury Luberon spa hotel, Domaine de Fontenille appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

L'Auberge La Fenière is a delightful hotel with an award winning, Michelin star restaurant and bistro run by renowned chef Reine Sammut and her daughter Nadia. On the outskirts of Lourmarin it's one of our favourites. We've enjoyed  their delicious food and the delightful ambience several times so I was intrigued to read fellow blogger, Keith Van Sickle's recent article posted in France Today and discover that it is now totally gluten free. L'Auberge La Fenière is the world's only gluten free, Michelin star restaurant! t's an amazing achievement and fascinating story which with the addition of a few of my own photos Keith has kindly allowed me to share.

An Oasis of Serenity in Provence ~ L'Auberge la Fenière by Keith Van Sickle

The Auberge la Fenière lies at the foot of a forest-covered hillside, just beyond the charming village of Lourmarin. It’s a hotel and restaurant that have been welcoming guests for decades, with beautiful old buildings made of golden stone. Next to them is a broad, inviting lawn bordered by olive and cherry trees and a large herb garden. You can feel yourself relax the moment you walk in.

The main attraction of L'Auberge la Fenière is undoubtedly its restaurant, the proud holder of a Michelin star since 1995. It draws food lovers from all over the world for its refined and creative cuisine. And, remarkably, there’s not a speck of gluten to be found anywhere, even in its many homemade breads.

Why no gluten? Let’s find out—it’s a fascinating story.

Since its beginning, the restaurant had been run by Reine Sammut, one of France’s top chefs and one of the rare women to be honored with a Michelin star. She created what she calls a “Mediterranean cuisine,” influenced by the many countries that border that wide sea. In the last few years, Reine has handed the reins to her daughter Nadia, another talented chef who has cooked in restaurants all over the world. Reine remains active in the restaurant but Nadia has made a number of changes, some subtle and some unmistakable.

About ten years ago, Nadia became very ill and doctors determined that she has celiac disease, a severe gluten intolerance, as well as an intolerance to lactose. This is a big problem for a chef! But the resourceful Nadia, who is also a trained chemist, decided to team up with her mother and convert the restaurant’s menu to make it entirely gluten-free. The menu is also nearly lactose free, though you can still order a cheese course and get milk for your coffee and things like that.

This menu conversion was quite a risk, to fundamentally change an approach that had been successful for decades. And it wasn’t without tension, because how do you tell your mother she needs to change? But Reine and Nadia persisted and three years ago the menu became entirely gluten-free.

Then came the big questions: what would the inspectors from Michelin think? And would customers still come?

The news was good on both fronts. The people at Michelin loved the new menu and the restaurant kept its coveted star, making it today the only completely gluten-free restaurant in the world so honored. And customers continue to flock to Fenière for its delicious food, with most of them not even realizing that it’s gluten-free!

This new approach to cooking means not only changes to recipes, but changes to the way ingredients are sourced and prepared. “The challenge is that gluten is found in so many places where you wouldn’t expect it,” explains Nadia, “like bouillons for sauces or chocolate for desserts. Even things that you would expect are ok, like chickpea flour, is often milled on equipment that also mills wheat, so it becomes contaminated.”

“The answer is what I call pure food. We source directly from local farmers as much as possible and work closely with them to make sure that they meet our standards. We even mill our flours ourselves—chestnut, oat, buckwheat, and others. Then we start from these pure ingredients for all of our dishes. And we cook at a low heat to retain all of the freshness and goodness of these wonderful ingredients. The result is pure flavors.”

And what flavors! A recent menu included a “bourbouillade,” a kind of stew made of whole baby artichokes in a broth with onions and herbs—the artichokes were so tender you could cut them with a fork. Another dish featured bacon from a special breed of pig that roams wild in the nearby countryside. The meal was topped off with a Paris-Lourmarin, Fenière’s version of the famous dessert Paris-Brest—a rich layer of thick whipped cream between two flaky crusts. At Fenière, the whipped cream is made of almond milk (homemade, of course) and the dish is so good that once you’ve had it, you may never go back to Paris-Brest again.

Bread is a specialty at Fenière and is one of the highlights of any meal. And interestingly, the chefs there use an ancient technique to keep their breads moist—cooking them in clay pots! Gluten-free bread tends to be dry, because gluten is what helps retains moisture. But it turns out that back in olden days, our ancestors had the same problem because wheat back then had less gluten in it. So they came up with the trick of using clay pots and Fenière does the same thing. What’s old is new again!

Besides the gourmet restaurant, Fenière also has a fun bistro that serves lunch and dinner, plus a Sunday brunch. It’s in a rustic, relaxed setting, just perfect for the casual fare it serves. And for guests lucky enough to stay in one of the auberge’s rooms, the morning breakfast buffet will definitely start the day off right, with a wide variety of fresh juices, breads, jams, fruits and nuts, plus eggs, prosciutto, yogurt, and chia pudding.

Nadia wants to change the world and her vision extends far beyond L'Auberge la Fenière. She has started a movement she calls Cuisine Libre (Free Cuisine), training other chefs in her approach to cooking. The famous Parisian baker Eric Kayser, for example, developed some of his bread recipes in collaboration with Nadia. She also gives cooking classes and has started her own bakery, and a book on Cuisine Libre will be published next spring. She is certainly keeping busy!

Many people today hear “gluten-free” and think “ick,” but that needn’t be true. One visit to the L'Auberge la Fenière will change their minds in a hurry. Article by Keith Van Sickle

Thanks Keith! I will definitely be making a return visit to L'Auberge la Fenière when I'm back in Lourmarin in a few weeks time!

L'Auberge la Fenière 1680 Route de Lourmarin, Cadenet, France  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79

The post L'Auberge La Fenière, Reine Sammut's stunning Lourmarin restaurant appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

If you get the chance to go to L'Isle sur la Sorgue do visit the stunning candied fruit shop of Lilamand Confiseur. The little sister to the one in Saint-Rémy de Provence, where the business was founded by Marius Lilamand in 1866 but just as enticing!

A family owned business, five generations after it's first production, today's owner, Pierre Lilamand, applies the same recipes used by Nostradamus and Olivier de Serres from over four centuries earlier.

Despite considerable diversification, candied fruits, the original staple remains their speciality. Carefully selected from an abundance of locally grown provencal fruits, several of which are quite rare varieties, expert hands transform them into shiny jewels, helping to preserve these unique varietals.

Beautifully displayed in their shops

with many carefully pre-wrapped, mouthwatering selections.

Alongside his wife Sophie, Pierre has expanded the business considerably. Today they now offer an extensive choice of delicious syrup and confitures.

In 2009 they also opened a new workshop dedicated to calisson production, small almond paste artisan candies, famous all over Provence. In 2016 they planted 2000 almond trees in the hills of Les Alpilles to ensure their calissons are the very best possible.

Dedicated to quality and the highest of standards their two beautiful shops in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and Isle-sur-Sorgue are a shining tribute to their values.;

 “they reflect our history, rich in history, know-how and tradition handed down since 5 generations…… spreading the values of Provence, …. to transmit truth and to provide a moment of joy.”

Lilamand Confiseur can be found at:

13 Rue de la République, 84800 L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, France

5 Avenue Albert Schweitzer, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

20 Rue de la Commune, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, France

The post Lilamand Confiseur~ candied fruits of Provence in L'Isle sur la Sorgue appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Over the last 30 years L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has become known all over France for its antiques. This picturesque little town has over 250 antique, art and decoration shops offering an extensive array of treasures from amongst its incredible collections. I told you last time how on Sundays, in addition to its traditional Provencal market an antiques market can be found strung between the main street and the river side. But also, twice a year, in April and August the entire town is transformed into a huge antique collectors market.

This April we spent a delightful day at the Foire Internationale Brocante & Antiquités browsing through the treasures.

Over 200 stalls ribbon their way by the quayside of the Sorgue and through the streets.

Experts are on hand with advice about the origins and authenticity of items for sale, it is an antiques extravaganza not to be missed!

Gautier Park becomes a stunning antiquarian village.

Exhibitors from across France and Europe offer their finest goods;

antiques, secondhand goods, old books, contemporary art, design & decoration pieces.

Just 25 km east of Avignon, between Carpentras and Cavaillon, even if you're not into shopping for antiques or strolling through markets, L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue should be part of every itinerary for this part of Provence.

Abundant with history, wander the narrow ancient streets, and watery fringes resplendent with bright foliage where its waterwheels and little bridges will charm and delight.

The next faire will be August 15 – 18 2019

Sadly I won't be able to make it but if you do I'd love to hear what you found!

The post Spring Antiques Fair in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

A visit to Lourmarin would not be complete without at least one visit to a local market in Provence. Friday is market day in Lourmarin But from early morning until about 1pm you'll find a market in Provence, somewhere, every day:

Markets in Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin (evenings)

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Uzès

Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

Regional produce found in the markets in Provence

Sold by smiling friendly locals

Goats Cheese

and other cheeses

 the perfect accompaniment to.....

 a baguette!

Olives

Candied fruits

 Garlic

Gifts from the markets in Provence

All things Olive!

Hats and bags

 Beautiful local handcrafts

Oils and vinegars

Nougat ~ although this might not make it to your suitcase!

A shopping basket full of evocative, sensory pleasures to provoke fond memories when you’re far away.

 My favourite market schedule:

Saturday ~ Apt or Uzes (click here for a video tour!)

 Sunday ~ L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Monday ~ Cadenet

Tuesday ~ Gordes & Lourmarin evening produce market

Wednesday ~ St Remy-de-Provence

Thursday ~ Aix-en-Provence

Friday ~ Lourmarin

Next time, we'll visit the Sunday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue!

The post Markets in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.