'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

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I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

The post The Lourmarin market, re-opening this Friday!! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

A visit to Lourmarin would not be complete without at least one visit to a local market in Provence. Friday is market day in Lourmarin But from early morning until about 1pm you'll find a market in Provence, somewhere, every day:

Markets in Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin (evenings)

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Uzès

Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

Regional produce found in the markets in Provence

Sold by smiling friendly locals

Goats Cheese

and other cheeses

 the perfect accompaniment to.....

 a baguette!

Olives

Candied fruits

 Garlic

Gifts from the markets in Provence

All things Olive!

Hats and bags

 Beautiful local handcrafts

Oils and vinegars

Nougat ~ although this might not make it to your suitcase!

A shopping basket full of evocative, sensory pleasures to provoke fond memories when you’re far away.

 My favourite market schedule:

Saturday ~ Apt or Uzes (click here for a video tour!)

 Sunday ~ L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Monday ~ Cadenet

Tuesday ~ Gordes & Lourmarin evening produce market

Wednesday ~ St Remy-de-Provence

Thursday ~ Aix-en-Provence

Friday ~ Lourmarin

Next time, we'll visit the Sunday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue!

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Early on Friday morning, around when the clock chimes eight, the sound of clanking metal posts gently peppers the air. White vans fill the car park outside my door and market stalls spring up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy spilling out along the streets. Friday is market day in Lourmarin and as I grab my basket, no matter how many times I've ambled through its' stalls, I wonder, 'what might I find today?'

Delicious local produce,

mouthwatering seasonal offerings,

 freshly picked and often just dug from the earth.

Sensory pleasures

to taste

and smell.

 Gifts from Provence to take back home,

maybe in a new basket?

So many to choose from

and fill with things encapsulating the essence of Provence.

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

I love the terrace of La Maison Café where you're serenaded from the street below.

And then maybe lunch at Café Gaby, merging into the ambience of this special corner of Provence.

And if you can't wait until next week, there's many other markets quite close by just begging to be explored, not forgetting Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

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Lourmarin, charming and captivating, come here and wander through the meandering streets, explore the chic boutiques and galleries and then sit and gaze upon life as you ponder all the things to see and Lourmarin activities before a delicious lunch in the shade, there are many places to choose from.

Whilst there is lots to see and do in Lourmarin, people here just ‘be', surrounded by beauty, relaxing on lazy, sun drenched days, maybe becoming lost in a good book. It’s an intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away.

The Lourmarin Château

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century.

The château was saved from demolition in 1920 by Robert Laurent Vibert, having completed major restorations he tragically died in a car accident a few years later. He left the château to the French Academy for Art and Science in Aix-en-Provence on the condition that young artists could perform there. It now plays hosts to many wonderful concerts and exhibitions, these are one of the key Lourmarin activities, especially in the summer which attracts artists, writers and musicians from across the globe.

The Luberon area has always been an artists haven; writers Henri Bosco (1888–1976) and Albert Camus (1913–1960) both lived in Lourmarin and are buried in the local cemetery and British writer, Peter Mayle, whose books include, 'A Year in Provence' and A Good Year, lives in Lourmarin today.

Art galleries and shops

As a place of artists, it is hardly surprising that amidst the trendy boutiques and shops, Lourmarin has several art galleries profiling some incredible artistic ability, visiting these galleries should definitely be included on your list of Lourmarin activities.

The Isirdi Gallery is probably the most famous, where the extraordinary talent of its owner Gérard Isirdi, with the help of his wife Christine, will entice you to take home a memory of your time in this special place. You might even be able to persuade him to paint something with you in the landscape, like our friends did, read how here!! 

The Lourmarin Market

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm, all year round, the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce and all things Provencal! A visit to this market is a must on your itinerary of Lourmarin activities.
Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadanet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Sault,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt

Wine in Lourmarin and beyond

Lourmarin is surrounded by the rolling hills of the stunning Luberon Valley, strewn with olive groves, fruit orchard and vineyards. Make sure you make time to include a visit to at least of these on your list of Lourmarin activities.

From the village stroll to Château Fontvert,  Path Pierrouret 84160 Lourmarin Tel: 04 9068 35 83

There is a great local wine selection available at both Les Caves du Château, where you can make your selection within the ancient, stone caves of the château and La Cave à Lourmarin, the excellent wine shop at Place H. Barthélémy in the village.

La Cave's apt slogan perhaps sums up the region's attitude to their wonderful wine:

Other activities

Exploring the region around Lourmarin

Exploring the surrounding region, the villages and cities should also be part of your Lourmarin activities. Within a short drive there are many other vineyards to stop by as you explore the stunning perched villages of the Luberon; each with their own fascinating history. The vibrant cities of Avignon and Aix-en-Provence are both less than an hour away and the sparkling Mediterranean coast line, with its quaint fishing towns, a short drive further; more next time!

The post What to see and do in Lourmarin appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

One of the things I love about Provence are their wonderful weekly markets, Lourmarin's is exceptional. Even though I rarely missed a weekly stroll, each time there were new things that captured my attention, filling my basket with fresh aromas and fragrances! Each Friday morning I would wake up to the clatter and clink of metal poles and stall holders' vehicle engines maneuvering themselves into place to stake out their position and unload their wares. Such hard work, especially in the rain but they always came no matter the weather. True, the market diminished in size during the winter months restricting itself more to local fresh produce. However just like the blooming of the blossoms it grew and flourished as spring approached, the weather warmed up and the crowds swelled.

Table cloths

Like Joseph's Coat of many colours, they are a staple at a Provencal Market. Bright, vibrant shades, splashing colour everywhere, it is hard to make a choice, maybe one of each?!

For the kitchen!

Each week we would something new we couldn't live without from this incredible selection

Provencal local food - deliciousness!

Cheese

Olives, tapenade and garlic!

Saucisson

Local fresh produce

Flowers

The Springtime Wisteria

Kissed with rain drops, these fragrant blooms were profusive!
As we wound our way from the market back down into the streets of Lourmarin it was with great nostalgia, wondering when we would next be here to fill our basket, probably sooner than you'd imagine!

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When you have been to one market you have been to them all. Well in one sense that is true. They all sell similar things in an outside setting, scattered round a town square or along a few streets. Maybe we could apply the same analogy to a sports match, 2 teams on a pitch, surrounded by eager fans, the outcome always the same in so much as there will be a winner and a looser. One group of supporters will be happy and the other disappointed…………but we wouldn't apply that correlation because of course each match is different. Each has its own unique energy and vibe and the excitement is in watching and enjoying that particular game. But have you ever been to the Lourmarin Marché? I believe that each marché offers its own vibe and excitement, even when it is the same market, in the same location each week. Stalls in different locations, different vendors, different personalities, who by themselves or what they are selling will engage you in different ways.

After living in Uzès for 4 months and going to the twice weekly markets there, reportedly the biggest in southern France, I was not expecting to be impressed by my first visit to the Lourmarin Marché, held every Friday in much smaller Lourmarin.

Why I should have thought that when everything else has impressed me so much I am not sure! Well of course it was a delightful, and just as enjoyable.
There was a similar focus on fresh produce and regional specialties; breads,

olives, olive oil, tapenades,

local honey, cheeses and flowers.

In October mushrooms, so many varied shapes and sizes it was hard to believe they were edible.

Being ‘local’ is actually what made it exceptional. The produce was really local. By that I mean from within a radius of probably less than 10 miles, so yes it wasn’t the same as Uzes over 60 miles away. Each vendor was proud to display his particular variety of  'fungi', or cheese, unique and distinct, nurtured, grown and produced in a specific part of a specific area just down the road……

Why is this appealing? Probably for me because in our global world of often sterile, mass production these marché vendors are reminiscent of a bygone time, a simpler age when artisans created from what they were able to produce from the land they owned.
The Lourmarin marché, winding along the cobbled streets of a golden medieval French village, under the diminishing canopy of autumnal plane trees will be somewhere you will find me each week for it fills my heart…..maybe yours too?

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region of Provence

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