London – Shutters & Sunflowers https://shuttersandsunflowers.com Travel tips from an English girl in California, in love with Provence. Mon, 17 Apr 2023 04:02:53 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.8.8 124587098 Speaking at The Pilsudski Institute about the Poles who cracked Enigma https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/speaking-at-the-pilsudski-institute-about-the-poles-who-cracked-enigma/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/speaking-at-the-pilsudski-institute-about-the-poles-who-cracked-enigma/#comments Fri, 03 May 2019 06:37:43 +0000 https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/?p=9969 I'm delighted to have been invited to speak at the Pilsudski Institute, London on May 14th 2019 about my novel  THE SUNFLOWER FIELD Interwoven with a modern day, fictitious wartime mystery, THE SUNFLOWER FIELD  tells the true story of three Polish mathematicians who ...

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I'm delighted to have been invited to speak at the Pilsudski Institute, London on May 14th 2019 about my novel  THE SUNFLOWER FIELD

Interwoven with a modern day, fictitious wartime mystery, THE SUNFLOWER FIELD  tells the true story of three Polish mathematicians who in 1932 first cracked the ENIGMA code. Considered completely unbreakable, the ENIGMA code was used by the Nazi's to encrypt their messages before transmission. Sharing this intelligence with the Allies on the eve of World War II, it was one of the most significant contributions to the Allied victory and the foundation for subsequent wartime code-breaking efforts.

Barely acknowledged and forgotten within the folds of history it's a story that's hardly been told, until now.

'The Sunflower Field' novel by Caroline Lonsgtaffe

 

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'The Spread Eagle' Midhurst, an historic English Inn https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-spread-eagle-midhurst-a-historic-english-inn/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-spread-eagle-midhurst-a-historic-english-inn/#comments Sun, 22 Oct 2017 19:06:31 +0000 http://shuttersandsunflowers.com/?p=8312 The Spread Eagle Hotel can be found in the pretty market town of Midhurst, West Sussex, in the heart of the beautiful South Downs, just over an hour south of London. Steeped in history, it is one of the oldest ...

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The Spread Eagle Hotel, Midhurst, Sussex England

The Spread Eagle Hotel can be found in the pretty market town of Midhurst, West Sussex, in the heart of the beautiful South Downs, just over an hour south of London. Steeped in history, it is one of the oldest buildings in the region, boasting original medieval lattice windows, exposed oak beams, ancient doorways, equisite tapestries, undulating floors and inglenook fireplaces large enough to sit in next to squashy sofas and an inviting bar! Dine in the room which once hosted medieval Lords, sleep where a Tudor Queen once rested her head or just sit and sip something delicious in the place where Nazi leaders once conspired. The Spread Eagle oozes ambience from every crook and cranny, safely guarding centuries of history, an atmospheric and charming place to visit whether it be to sip, dine, stay or if you have time, all three!

The Spread Eagle, Midhurst , a historic Inn, Midhurst, Sussex, England

Dating back to 1430, The Spread Eagle was built on the foundations of an early medieval building, next to the estates of the local Knights of St John. Following the growth of a new merchant class during the Tudor period, after 1650, as the need for travel accommodation increased, the inn underwent extensive improvements. Eventually The Spread Eagle became an important stage coach inn on the route between the docks at Portsmouth and London.

Over the centuries further renovations have been completed each being careful to preserve the hotel's delightful historical character. You can dine today right next to this tremendous inglenook fireplace!

Dining room at The Spread Eagle Hotel, Midhurst, Sussex England

The Christmas puddings dangling above the fireplace hang there all year ready for guests to enjoy for their annual Christmas lunch!

The Spread Eagle, Midhurst Christmas puddings, Midhurst, Sussex, England

Cowdray House

The story of The Spread Eagle has close connections to the nearby ruins of Cowdray House, constructed by Sir David Owen, the illegitimate son of the Tudor dynasty’s founder Owen Tudor. Sir David inherited the estate through marriage into the de Bohun family and his role in placing Henry Tudor on the English throne meant that Cowdray became an estate of immense importance. Cowdray attracted many distinguished guests some of whom stayed at The Spread Eagle Hotel.

Ruins of Cowdray House, Midhurst, Sussex, England

Guests at The Spread Eagle

Other famous guests to the hotel include Queen Elizabeth I, you can still stay in the room where she slept! Also Admiral Horatio Nelson with his mistress Emma and later, Prince Charles, H.G. Wells  the Maharajah of Cooch Behar and my grandparents in the 1950's!

Sign at The Spread Eagle, Midhurst, Sussex, England

The link to the  'Spread Eagle' and the inn

The ‘Spread Eagle’ was a powerful symbol in European history. During the Middle Ages the German dominated Holy Roman Empire adopted it as its emblem which is maybe why the Knights of St John came to Midhust.

In July 1939, Hitler's Ambassador to England, Joachim Von Ribbentrop dined at The Spread Eagle with Hermann Goering and four other officers after attending the Goodwood Races. Before coming to The Spread Eagle, Goering had been visiting Leonardslee near Horsham, then the home of Lady Loder, and it is believed that he had selected this beautiful property to be his H.Q. after the invasion of England.

Here is Von Ribbentrop signature in the The Spread Eagle's guest book.

Von Ribbentrop's signature on The Spread Eagle Hotel's Register July 1939, Midhurst, Sussex England

During the World War II American GI’s based at Cowdray House often came to The Spread Eagle. It is rumored that when they returned to Midhurst after the war they bought with them this Eagle taken from Hermann Goering’s office in the Reichstag, Berlin.

The eagle at The Spread Eagle Hotel, Midhurst, Midhurst, Sussex, England

They donated it to the hotel to thank them for all the happy times spent there during World War II.

The Reichstag Eagle at The Spread Eagle Midhurst

The Spread Eagle today

The Spread Eagle  Midhurst is now privately owned, one of three in a group of historic Sussex hotels, each one having their own fascinating story to tell.

Do stop off at The Spread Eagle should you be visiting this pretty corner of southern England, even if it's just for a drink, although I would suggest you find the time to spend longer!!

English properties in Midhurst, Sussex, England

 The Spread Eagle Hotel, South Street, Midhurst, Gu29 9NH +44 (0)1730 816911

Click here to read more about other places to visit about an hour from London

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Chelsea, London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/chelsea-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/chelsea-london/#comments Sun, 08 Oct 2017 06:45:01 +0000 http://shuttersandsunflowers.com/?p=8163 Chelsea, London, SW1, one of the most exclusive and of course expensive addresses in London, if not Britain. Close to the River Thames, Chelsea boasts streets of grand mansions and delightful mews properties and some of the capital's most high ...

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Chelsea Properties, Chelsea, London, England

Chelsea, London, SW1, one of the most exclusive and of course expensive addresses in London, if not Britain. Close to the River Thames, Chelsea boasts streets of grand mansions and delightful mews properties and some of the capital's most high end luxury shops, with world class museums, theatres and parks all nearby. Chelsea is home to amongst other things, The Chelsea Barracks, The Chelsea Flower Show, The Royal Hopsital and The Chelsea Foot Ball Club based at Stamford Bridge in neighbouring Fulham.

As a Brit living in California I was interested to learn that Chelsea is home to one of the largest communities of Americans living outside the United States,not a bad place to be an expat in!

Properties on Lower Sloane Street, Chelsea, London, England

Just off of Chelsea's Sloane Square is The Sloane Club where I was fortunate enough to stay and be suitably pampered and indulged all thanks to the generosity of a dear friend, lucky me!

Entrance to the Sloane Club, Chelsea, London, UK

Strolling Chelsea's streets it was impossible to not be impressed by the varied and beautiful architecture. From the red brick of Lower Sloane Street to these, quite different in style

Properties in Chelsea, London, England

and these, where one almost expected to meet an Elizabeth or Jane Bennet!

The Properties of Chelsea, London, England

Royal Hospital Chelsea ~ home to Chelsea Pensioners

The Royal Hospital Chelsea is the home of the iconic Chelsea Pensioners, retired soldiers of the British Army. The hospital was founded in 1681 by King Charles II to provide care for old and injured soldiers. Charles II commissioned Sir Christopher Wren for its design and construction and a site next to the River Thames was chosen in the countryside of Chelsea. Work was completed in 1692 and the first Chelsea Pensioners were admitted in February 1692. By the end of March 476 men were in residence and the home was full.

Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, home to Chelsea Pensioners

A Grade I and II listed site, it remains today as a beautiful architectural legacy left to the nation by Charles II and Christopher Wren, offering care and comradeship for any former soldier of the British Army over the age of 65, who is alone.

Today the Royal Hospital Chelsea is home to over 300 army veterans who have served in World War II, Cyprus, Korea, the Falkland Islands and Northern Ireland.

Bram Stoker's Home

Who would have known that the creator of this dark character of fiction, Count Dracula, once resided in Chelsea? Abraham, 'Bram' Stoker (8 November 1847 – 20 April 1912), an Irish novelist, wrote his Gothic novel Dracula in 1897 from 18 St Leonard's Terrace, his home in Chelsea, SW3. St Leonard's Terrace was also once the home of Sir Laurence Olivier and is listed as one of 200 most expensive addresses in Britain.

Bram Stoker's Home, Chelsea, London, England

Shopping in Chelsea

The Kings Road is Chelsea's most famous shopping streets. On a Saturday a lively market was in full force, an upscale market of course but then we were in Chelsea......

Chelsea Market on Kings Road, England

These converted mews properties were close by

Shops in Chelsea, London, England

and this is where we had dinner. It felt just like being in Europe. Should that be a surprise, for despite the nightmare of Brexit, England is still in Europe, I think!

Chelsea Restaurant, Kings Road, London, England

Thank you again to my friend for such a special treat.

Check out more places to visit in fabulous London here. Still my favourite city in the world but then I am perhaps a tad biased!

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London's Maltby Street Market, a foodie's heaven https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/londons-maltby-street-market-a-foodies-heaven/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/londons-maltby-street-market-a-foodies-heaven/#respond Sun, 02 Oct 2016 09:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/londons-maltby-street-market If you like fresh, delicious, home cooked food and you are in London on a Saturday or Sunday, don't miss the Maltby Street Market. About a 10 minute walk from Tower Bridge, along the Ropewalk, next to Lassco, (fabulous architectural salvage ...

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The Maltby Street Market, Bermondsey, London, England

If you like fresh, delicious, home cooked food and you are in London on a Saturday or Sunday, don't miss the Maltby Street Market.

About a 10 minute walk from Tower Bridge, along the Ropewalk, next to Lassco, (fabulous architectural salvage and antiques) you'll find the Maltby Street  Market, it's a foodie's heaven!

You can stand on the street and indulge, take a table within the old Victorian railway arches and soak up the cool, atmospheric, rustic vibe or take it home to spoil your friends! Make your at the selection from around the globe, gourmet sandwiches, exotic scotch eggs, local micro-brewed beer or the best Indian food you'll ever eat; your taste buds will be thrilled by the total scrumptiousness!

One of the dining spots within the Railway arches at the market
Restaurant under the railway arches at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Artisan Breads
Artsian breads at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Scotch Eggs like you have never experienced before.
Scotch eggs at Maltby Street Market, London, England
Mouth watering, vegetarian Indian food,
Indian food at Maltby Street Market, London, England
it really was a good as it looks!
Indian vegetarian food at Maltby Street Market, London, England;Tower Bridge;London Bridge Underground Station;Bermondsey Underground Station;Artisan food
A selection from the local microbreweries at the Maltby Street  Market.
London micro brews at Maltby Street Market, London, England
And so very much more to tempt you. Check it out for yourself and let me know what your favourites are.

The Maltby Street Market: every Saturday 9am - 4pm Sunday 11am- 4pm

Closest Tube for the Maltby Street  Market : London Bridge or Bermondsey

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Three different worlds on three different Saturdays! https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays/#respond Mon, 09 Mar 2015 07:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/Three-different-worlds-on-three-different-saturdays We all know how a plane journey can transport us to a different world in a matter of hours. I have spent the last three Saturdays, just three weeks apart, in three completely different places thanks to the miracle of flight. From ...

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A view of Westminster from the Embankment, London, England

We all know how a plane journey can transport us to a different world in a matter of hours. I have spent the last three Saturdays, just three weeks apart, in three completely different places thanks to the miracle of flight. From the sophistication of a glamorous, world class, capital city; London, to the breathtaking beauty of the ski slopes of Lake Tahoe, to the sun drenched beaches and palm trees of Southern California.

London, from the Embankment

A '747' jet had carried me the 5000 miles home to England and my beautiful capital city of London. On a crisp February morning, under clear blue skies overhead we strolled along the Embankment admiring the view and the famous sights of this iconic city.
A walk along London's Embankment

 Admiralty Arch by Trafalgar Square

Admiralty Arch London

Lake Tahoe from  Northstar, ski resort

A week later another '747' had returned me back to where we live. The skies were a deeper blue, the air was considerably colder and the view was also of water, this time of a lake not a river; from the top of the mountain it was quite breathtaking!

A view of Lake Tahoe from the top of Northstar Ski resort
The corduroy runs were mostly man made but surprisingly good considering the dismal lack of precipitation. The camera pointed in one direction showed near perfect slopes for a day on skis, yet you only had to turn 180 degrees and  the reality of months of dry weather was revealed. Without the man made powder there would be no skiing whatsoever! The pine trees wore a mantel of dark green and were prematurely bursting with new growth, it seemed as if the white world of 'Narnia' had gone forever!
Bare slopes at Northstar, Lake Tahoe, California
Yet how the world can be transformed in 12 hours by just one winter storm!

Giant caterpillar snow ploughs soon got to work to clear the roads.

And I wondered if we were completely crazy to try to return home and to brave the freeways in such blizzard conditions.

We found our way home safely and within just another week I found climbing into another plane, only this one was considerably smaller than a '747'!

A view of the wineries of The Livermore Valley, Northern California

At 3000 feet, being navigated south, as the small, single engine plane lurched and bounced through the turbulence I did wonder whether sitting in a commercial plane might be preferable!
Flying over Livermore, Northern California
Within an hour we had sped across the Central Valley and were high above the Grapevine where the '5' Freeway wound its way through the hills down into the Los Angeles Basin.

Minutes later the sprawl of Los Angeles was below us.
The conurbation of Los Angeles, California
Famous landmarks were clearly visible.

 'The Rose Bowl', Pasadena

'The Rose Bowl' in Pasadena, Los Angeles County, California
On the ground at Orange County's John Wayne Airport, the jets arrived next to us.
Landed at John Wayne Airport Orange County, California
When we arrived to return home our 'Vans RV6A' looked very tiny parked up next to a Gulfstream G5 jet!!
Vans RV6A looking tiny parked next to a Gulf stream G5
Southwest Airlines taxied ahead of us,
Southwest Airlines taxing ahead of us at John Wayne Airport, Orange County, Southern California
we had to wait for them to take off first, it was quite impressive!
Southwest Airlines taking off ahead of us at John Wayne Airport, Orange County, Southern California

The Los Angeles Hills from 9000 feet

The Los Angeles Hills from 9000 feet

Approaching Mt Diablo

Approaching Mt Diablo, Northern California

Livermore Airport on descent

On approach at Livermore Airport, Northern California

Approaching at Livermore Airport, Northern California

Landing at Livermore Airport, Northern California
the miracle of flight!

 

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London, from Borough Market to Covent Garden https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden/#respond Sun, 07 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/london-from-borough-market-to-covent-garden When ever you visit a major city don't you feel you walk miles? I think it is one of the best ways to see everything, to become part of where you are and notice the details. With the hectic pace ...

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When ever you visit a major city don't you feel you walk miles? I think it is one of the best ways to see everything, to become part of where you are and notice the details. With the hectic pace most of us live our lives, it's actually a treat to have the time to amble, to stop at things that just happen to draw you and in London that's a lot! We had lunch at Nopi, where I had been longing to eat, we strolled through Borough Market and along The Southbank, crossing Waterloo Bridge to the Strand and on to Covent Garden. There was much to catch our attention! We had a quick rest back at our hotel before heading out again to the theater, what better way to spend a night in this fabulous and most beloved capital city!

The London Underground ~ Clear blue skies and mild weather had us walking by .
The London Underground
Shaftsbury Avenue  ~ the heart of London's theater district.

Shaftsbury Avenue, London, England

Nopi, Ottolenghi's restaurant

Yotam Ottolenghi became legendary in our household this summer, as my family inquired which combination of Ottolenghi's recipes I had prepared from one of his two wonderful cookery books, 'Jerusalem' or 'Plenty'.  Born in Jerusalem, Ottolenghi has shared some incredibly inspiring and mostly, very healthy recipes in his fabulous books and so to be able to eat in his esteemed restaurant, Nopi, was a real thrill.

Salads at NOPI, Yotam Ottolenghi's London restaurantThe food was delcious, roasted eggplant, with lemon yoghurt, spicy seeds and pickled cucumber, followed by courgette and manouri (a soft greek cheese) fritters with cardamon yoghurt.
We would highly recommend Nopi but you need to book in advance, it was packed even when we left at 4pm with dinner guests just beginning to trickle in. When I asked if there were plans to open any more restaurants (Nopi is the only one, although there are several Delis across London, some of which have seating) I was told 'no', Yotam likes to be personally involved to maintain quality. I was also told that Yotam is a very caring person and great to work for, it made me like him even more!!

To find Nopi in London click here

Borough Market

Exit to Borough Market, LondonPheasants for sale at London's Borough Market

Our food journey was to continue at fabulous Borough Market, where only the freshest of everything is on sale. If only I had had a kitchen to cook in that night and if only it were possible to buy fresh pheasants like these, for just 5 pounds each, back in California! Pheasant was always a Christmas tradition growing up, as a small child I can remember watching them being plucked.......glad I don't have to do that though!

Click on this link if you would like to read the history of this thousand year old London market!
Vegetables or sale at Borough Market, London
The incredible selection of mushrooms made me think I was back in Provence
Mushrooms for sale at Borough Market, London
and of course in December, Christmas was everywhere.
Christmas store at Borough Market, London, England
I wasn't too sure whether this old boy was reading his paper or whether he had nodded off at the end of a busy day!

An old man by the Christmas store at Borough Market, London, England

The Southbank

The Thames is iust round the corner from Borough and we ambled along the Southbank, Sir Christopher Wren's St Paul's Cathedral dominating the skyline from across the river.
St Pauls Cathedral, London, England
By the time we had reached Waterloo Bridge, where we crossed the Thames, the view back towards Borough was a modern symphony of angles and glass!

View of the Thames, London from Waterloo Bridge
Paddington Bear had greeted us several times on our stroll.
Paddington Bear on the Southbank, London, England
Each time in various dress!
Another Paddington Bear on the Southbank, London, England
Street performers were not to be outdone by a small bear!
A street performer on London's Southbank, England
Before we leave the Thames I feel I should pay tribute to the 888,246, heart rendering and beautiful poppies, created by artists Paul Cummins and Tom Piper, to mark the centenary of WWI and raise money for all war heroes. I so wish had we been in London a few days earlier, had we been we would have walked in a different direction towards Tower Bridge and the Tower of London to visit this stunning display......lest we never forget.
The Tower of London Poppies London to mark the centenary of WWI

Covent Garden

Here, Christmas was in full swing!
Covent Garden reindeer at Christmas
The Covent Garden Apple Market, packed with local artisans.
The Apple Market at Covent Garden, London, England
A Lego Santa, complete with reindeer pulling his sleigh!
Santa and his reindeer at Covent Garden, London, England

London Theater

Nowhere in the world is the theater more vibrant and exciting. It almost doesn't matter what you opt to see, you know it will be marvelous, as indeed 'The Commitments' were!
The Commitments in London's West End
We were dancing and singing in the aisles, who wouldn't be to such electrifying music?!
The Commitments Show in London's West End
Our day would not have been complete without a ride home in a London cabbie, where we pleased to see that he had 'the Knowledge'. If you are unfamiliar with what that is, click here, it is very impressive!!
The London taxis' ;Knowldege'
Have you been to London, what do you like to do there, I'd love to know?

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Exploring Charles Dickens' London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/exploring-charles-dickens-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/exploring-charles-dickens-london/#respond Thu, 04 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/exploring-charles-dickens-london Join me as we explore the London of Charles Dickens where Dickens first moved to in 1815 at the age of two. He described his time both here and then in Kent as the most idyllic period of his life, ...

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Southwark Cathedral, exploring Charles Dickins' London

Join me as we explore the London of Charles Dickens where Dickens first moved to in 1815 at the age of two. He described his time both here and then in Kent as the most idyllic period of his life, brought to a sudden end when in 1824, his father, always a poor manager of money, was sent to the Marshalsea Debtors Prison. Our tour began in the shadows of the church of St George the Martyr opposite the grave yard where stands the one remaining wall of what was once this prison. Here our highly recommended tour guide, Richard, set the scene, quoting from Dickens’ 'Little Dorrit', that whoever stands on this spot will be standing among "...the crowded ghosts of many miserable years..." And so began an incredible walk exploring Southwark, London, an area frequented by Dickens, where without Richard, many significant sights would be passed by unnoticed. A fascinating insight into this talented, somewhat tormented author whose enduring works continue to captivate millions, both in books and on the screen. I hope I do justice to what we discovered about the London of Charles Dickens!


The ominous wall of Marshalsea Debtors Prison,
where Dickens visited his father.
Only wall of Marshalsea Debtors Prison, Southwark, London
Previously schooled to become a gentleman, Dickens was now forced to work in Warren's Blacking Warehouse, (today the site of Charing Cross Station) pasting labels onto boot polish pots. The trauma he endured here emotionally impacted him forever, and is reflected in many of his subsequent great works, most notably David Copperfield. Just like many of the children he was to write about, this sad, little boy, quite abandoned, explored the sights of London, discovering all aspects of its life which later he wrote about so eloquently.

Looking back from the prison wall across the graveyard to the church, it was not hard to imagine the bleakness of this twelve year old's situation.
Church of St George the Martyr Southwark, London
However things did improve and on his father’s release from prison, Dickens resumed his education and two years later became a clerk for Ellis and Blackmore, solicitors in London’s Gray’s Inn. Here he taught himself shorthand and within just 18 months had set himself up as a shorthand recorder at Doctors’ Commons, by St Paul’s Cathedral.
St Paul's Cathedral London, England
Archway into White Hard Yard where Dickens workedIn 1832 he became a reporter for ‘The Mirror of Parliament’ and, in 1833, his first story ‘A Dinner at Poplar Walk’ was published. A year later he began working for the ‘Morning Chronicle’ becoming friends with its music critic George Hogarth. When, in 1835, Hogarth became editor of the 'Evening Chronicle', working in White Hart Yard, he asked Dickens to contribute sketches which became Sketches by ‘Boz’, (Dickens’ pseudonym) In 1836 Dickens married Hogarth’s daughter, and his first installment of Pickwick Papers appeared. To the left is the Archway into White Hart Yard where Dickens then worked whilst writing Pickwick Papers.

When its originator and illustrator, Robert Seymour, committed suicide Dickens replaced him with Hablot Browne, who remained his illustrator for the next 20 years. Once Dickens introduced the character of Sam Weller to Pickwick Papers it became a publishing phenomenon making Dickens a celebrity of his time! His success was in some part due to that this endings were always cliff hangers, leading his readers to want to return and read more!

Around the corner from White Hart Yard is George Inn, frequented by both Shakespeare and Dickens. Only one side of its original courtyard survives and it is the only inn of this design still in existence in London today.
St George's Inn Southwark, London
When plays were originally performed in the 16th century and before, they were done so on minstrel galleries such as these, the design of which was replicated in the first theaters, notably Shakespeare’s Globe, just a short walk from here.
Shakespeare's Globe theatre, London
Following the untimely death of his sister-in-law, in 1837, a broken hearted Dickens threw himself into his writing. He finished Oliver Twist, Nicholas Nickleby and started work on Barnaby Rudge, becoming one of the most popular writers of the age. A year later he visited America where he was met with an almost hysterical welcome. He then wrote Martin Chuzzlewit (1843–44) followed by, possibly his best known work, A Christmas Carol (1843).

We stopped by this small insignificant patch of land, known as Crossbones Graveyard which many believe to be what Dickens had in mind when he described the graveyard visited by Scrooge with 'the ghost of Christmas yet to come'.
Crossbones graveyard, Southwark, London
For centuries this had been the burial ground for prostitutes. The surrounding land stretching down to the Thames, was once owned by the Bishops of Winchester. As sailors stopped along the water, several brothels grew up. Although willing to take rent for the brothels, the bishops refused the burial of their inmates, 'the Geese of Winchester', on consecrated land and hence they were buried here. After the dissolution of monasteries it became a burial site for paupers until the late 1850s when it was realized it was not healthy to bury the dead so close to where people lived! Since the building of the underground's Jubilee line there has been an on going dispute about destroying the graveyard. Local people have protested that it would be wrong to eradicate somewhere where approximately 15,000 people have been buried. On the railings outside are flowers and ribbons remembering those that were buried here. Their objections have been heard and there is now going to be a memorial garden on the site.

As Dickens fame grew he became friends with some influential people such as the great reformer Octavia Hill the founder of the National Trust, the first building that they saved being George's Inn!
Cottages built by Octavia Hill in Southwark, London
They believed that the best way to help the poor escape the poverty trap was through self improvement, cottages such as these were built across London, tenants were taught a simple trade and to grow produce from the gardens and they were required to pay rent. Today this garden is one of the only remaining, it is still owned by a trust and provides shelter for the old. Now overshadowed by the 21st century, the view is quite different! I wonder what Dickens and the Victorians would have made of The Shard?!
View from the cottage garden Southwark, London
Another influential association of Dickens was with Miss Angela Burdett-Coutts, who in 1846, at the age of 18 inherited the Coutts 1.8 million pound fortune. Wanting to use her money for good works she turned to Dickens for help with a project which became known as Urania Cottage to provide shelter for prostitutes. Dickens and Coutts became close friends and she even paid for Dickens' son to go to Eton.
We continued on to the river, passing the Hop Exchange, where the hops from Kent were bought to be sold in London.
The Hops Exchange, Southwark, London
We stopped under the shadows of Southwark Cathedral which Dickens would have known well, although in his time it would have just been a church.

Looking out across the Thames to a skyline, very much changed since Dickens’ time, the inscription on the wall, by another famous man, Sir Walter Raleigh, (1552-1618) was very poignant;

"There are two things scarce matched in the universe, the sun in heaven and on the Thames on earth"
London skyline from Southwark, much changed since Dickens time
Our tour came to an end by fabulous Borough Market, also featured in Pickwick Papers.
Borough Market, Southwark London
We stood below the only archway of the original London Bridge which would have existed during Dickens' life, the remaining was bought by an American and today is at Lake Havasu in Arizona.
Only remaining archway of London Bridge from Dickens' times
and looked up at the steps where Nancy was murdered by Bill Sykes in Oliver Twist.
Steps by London Bridge where Dickens wrote of Nancy's murder by Bill Sykes in Oliver Twist
Sadly by 1858 Dickens' personal life had fallen into disarray. He divorced his wife, devastating his family and went on to live a very clandestine life style.

Dickens began a series of highly profitable reading tours which continued, despite his failing health, for twelve years when on 8th June, 1870, at just 58, Dickens collapsed at dinner and died the next evening.........

Should you be in London, I would so recommend one of Richard's tours. They last just under 2 hours but you leave wishing he could be your guide all day! He brings magic and life to all he describes with such passion and animation, it's almost like stepping back in time! You can discover more about this and other tours he offers by clicking here

Where to find Borough in the Southwark District of London ~ England

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The streets of London at Christmas https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas/#respond Tue, 02 Dec 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/the-streets-of-london-at-christmas Growing up in England, I always associate cold and frosty weather with Christmas. Wandering around the streets of London last week bought those childhood memories flooding back. The weather was mixed, mostly damp and drizzly, quite mild but bundling up in ...

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Oxford Street, London, England at Christmas

Growing up in England, I always associate cold and frosty weather with Christmas. Wandering around the streets of London last week bought those childhood memories flooding back. The weather was mixed, mostly damp and drizzly, quite mild but bundling up in a coat was still required. The clouds did part on occasion but even then the light had that subdued, wintry quality. By 4.30pm darkness had enveloped us and London’s sparkling lights of Christmas shone above like small twinkles of seasonal expectation. Everywhere on the streets of London there was an air of excitement and anticipation. London's Oxford Street bustled with impatient shoppers as the city's iconic London red buses and London black taxi's rumbled by.

As I approached the legendary department store Selfridges,
Selfridges Department Store, Oxford Street, London
and having recently watched the story of its beginnings in 'Mr Selfridges'
Selfridges sign, Oxford Street, London

I wondered what it's famous founder, Harry Selfridge would think of this years Christmas window display.
Selfridges, London, Christmas window 2014
Further along Oxford Street was my favourite store, John Lewis proudly showing off their 'Christmas penguin', the star of Britain's 2014 favorite Christmas advert. Watch it to see why, it perfectly encapsulates the magic of Christmas; a child's imagination. To watch, click here  and do let me know what you think! 'The Christmas they've been dreaming of.'
The John Lewis Christmas advert 2014
Shop windows everywhere exuded Christmas
Christmas window in London
A Christmas window in London
No more so in ultra exclusive Mayfair, this was one of the windows of an outfitters who supply 'Their Majesties',
A Christmas window in Mayfair, London
and this is where they get their stationary...'by Royal Appointment'!
London Stationers at Christmas
Some of these expensive Mayfair establishments had liveried doormen waiting at the door to greet you. Peeking in through their windows it was like stepping into the times of Downton Abbey's Dowager Countess of Grantham, to an era where when one arrived by horse and carriage with a servant hurrying behind you to gather up your purchases, a world of extreme opulence which for some, clearly still exists today, incredible!

Bohemian Carnaby Street beat to a totally different rhythm with the most up to date fashions reflecting its 1970's vibe
Carnaby Street, London
The streets became more swollen as daylight faded where I waited for the traffic to come to its momentary halt to be able to cross the road at Piccadilly Circus.
Piccadilly Circus, London
Behind me the stately tower of Westminster Abbey was just visible in the late afternoon haze
Tower of Westminster Abbey from St James', London
and when I back turned around it was if the lights of Piccadilly Circus and somehow instantly been switched on
Piccadilly Circus,London at dusk
The Regent Street lights, sponsored this year by Hollywood (I don't remember that happening as a child!) made the sky seem blue.

Christmas lights of Regents Street London
A lone Christmas tree in Berkeley Square seemed much more in keeping, far removed from the commercialism on every other corner.
Christmas tree in Berkley Square, London
The lights of the surrounding streets were more subtle as befitting this upscale neighborhood

Christmas 2014, lights of Mayfair London
There was more to explore the following day. Join me next time as I discover Charles Dickens' London and appropriately for Dickens, in the words of the famous song 'let me take you by the hand and lead you through the streets of London'..............

I'd love to know what your neighborhood looks like at this time of year, do comment and share your thoughts with each other below!

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Flying back to my life in England! https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/flying-back-to-my-life-in-england/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/flying-back-to-my-life-in-england/#respond Mon, 17 Nov 2014 08:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/flying-back-to-my-life-in-england On Tuesday evening I fly to London…. Despite being fortunate enough to be able to make the journey a few times a year, each trip I make is still very special, if not somewhat unbelievable. It alway feels surreal and ...

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San Francisco International Airport, flying home to England

On Tuesday evening I fly to London…. Despite being fortunate enough to be able to make the journey a few times a year, each trip I make is still very special, if not somewhat unbelievable. It alway feels surreal and I am tempted to announce to people at the store or the bank or wherever I might be as I rush round attending to last minute details, “I’m flying to England in a few hours!” Maybe they wouldn't even care but I think it's terribly exciting, miraculous that you can sit in a piece of metal which somehow lifts into the sky and transports you to another world, and for me another life. It's such a comforting feeling landing at London Heathrow, back where I come from, home. As much as I love my life in California, I am so grateful that I can visit England as much as I do. As soon as I step off the plane, breathing in that slightly chilly, kerosene perfumed air, it’s as if I am being wrapped in a warm, welcoming embrace to be seamlessly absorbed back into my ‘other life’, my life in England……. Everything is all so wonderfully familiar, from grumpy airport staff, to English car number plates, the road signs, the somewhat greyer skies and all the special people in my life that I spend so much time separated from but who always allow me to slip back as if I had never left, thank you to you all, what adventures will we share together this time?
Arriving one more time at San Francisco International Airport
San Francisco International Airport, departures
to check in on my favourite airline, Virgin Atlantic.
Virgin Atlantic check in desk at SFO International Airport
Looking around the airport lounge it is incredulous that all these people had the same idea, to book a flight on the same plane as me to fly to London! Somehow it bonds you together even though usually you never talk to any of them or have any clue as to who they are. You share the skies with strangers for 10 or 11 hours, recognize some of them as you all wearily wait at the carousel for your luggage and then you go your separate ways.

I am excited that on this trip I will be seeing all my family, including cousins, Aunts and Uncles I haven't seen for a few years as we celebrate my mother's milestone 80th birthday, which we just celebrated here whilst she was staying, she's quite the jet setter for 80!!
Celebrating Jean Amy Fry's 80th birthday in Danville California
I have a trip to London planned,
Regents Street, London England at Christmas
the theatre booked and a Charles Dickens, guided walking tour,
Charles Dickens guided tour of London, England
which starts in fabulous Borough Market.
Borough Market, London, England
There will be pub meals, sat by the glow of a log fireside, catching up with dear friends.
An English Pub, The Wellington Arms near Baughurst, Hampshire
Hopefully a visit to Blenheim Palace,
Blenheim Palace, Woodstock, England, birth place of Sir Winston Churchill
which at this time of year will be decked out in its Christmas finery!
Blenheim Palace decorated for Christmas at Woodstock, England, birth place of Sir Winston Churchill
Walks along country lanes,
English country lanes
Christmas markets to visit and shopping sprees in charming towns like Henley-on-Thames, my home.Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire, England
and most special of all, time with those I love. I'll keep you posted!!

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Christmas Carols at the Royal Albert Hall London https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london/ https://shuttersandsunflowers.com/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london/#respond Mon, 24 Dec 2012 16:00:00 +0000 http://www.shuttersandsunflowers.com/blog/christmas-carols-at-the-royal-albert-hall-london-1 Making our way through the streets of London on a crisp but damp December afternoon the air was full of the anticipation of Christmas. We were about to become part of a very British Christmas tradition, carol singing at a ...

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The Royal Albert Hall London, England

Making our way through the streets of London on a crisp but damp December afternoon the air was full of the anticipation of Christmas. We were about to become part of a very British Christmas tradition, carol singing at a very grand venue, London's Royal Albert Hall!

Driving through London, we passed the magnificent Law Court's Rolls Building at the Royal Courts of Justice.
Royal Courts, London, England
Charles Dicken's Old Curiosity Shop.
Charles Dicken's Old Curiosity Shop, London England
Whitehall, leading to Downing Street and Westminster, congested with traffic on a this grey December day.    Whitehall, London, leading to Westminster and Downing Street
Buckingham Palace, regal and stately, clearly its most important occupant away, as the Royal Standard Flag had been replaced with the Union Jack!
Buckingham Palace, London, England
Admiring the Albert Memorial, (commissioned by Queen Victoria in memory of her beloved husband, Prince Albert who died of typhoid in 1861) in Kensington Gardens, before we escaped the drizzle.
Prince Albert Memorial, Hyde Park, London, England
Christmas carols and  a collection of seasonal favorites accompanied by the London Concert Chorus and London Concert Orchestra under the magnificent dome of The Royal Albert Hall...................can your Christmas spirits be stirred any further?!!
Royal Albert Hall, London, England
Magical, heart rousing singing  and dancing in the aisles! Hugging your family and the stranger next to you, wishing them 'Happy Christmas', in Tiny Tim's immortal words 'God bless us, one and all'!
Christmas Concert in Royal Albert Hall, London, England, December 2012
Christmas Concert in Royal Albert Hall, London, England, December 2012
Opening of Royal Albert Hall, 1871 London England

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