'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

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We decided we'd like to explore a little more of the region beyond the Luberon and spend a few days on the Côte d'Azur. We were in search of a quiet, boutique hotel, one that offered good food where we could relax for a few days by a pool and feel a little indulged. With lots of places to chose from you're never completely sure if you've made a good selection until you arrive. Nestled on the cliffs above the sparkling Mediterranean, Hôtel La Villa La Duce, proved to be a gem!

About a three hour drive from Lourmarin we chose to drive across country instead of taking the autoroute. It was a scenic journey, through vast areas of sweeping vineyards into the beautiful countryside of the Var.

We stopped for lunch by the Mediterranean at the pretty beach town of Le Lavandou, just 13km west of our destination at Rayol-Canadol-sur-Mer and 30km west of the beaches of the Saint Tropez Peninsular.

Le Lavandou bustles with restaurants, shops and cafés, cheerily strung along the quay.

We wandered by the water until we found somewhere that seemed impossible to resist. Doubtless tempted by a display of one of our favourite rosés, Léoube, from nearby Bormes-Les-Mimosas. (There's a story to Léoube which I'll share next time.)

After lunch we wound our way a little further along the oleander fringed corniche. Mediterranean villas, smothered with bright purple and fushia bougainvillea clung to the hillside either side of us, painting a profusion of color along our pathway

Then we arrived at Hôtel La Villa La Duce, perched amongst the clay tiled roof tops with dazzling views from the terrace, of our beautifully appointed room, of the Mediterranean and Côte d'Azur.

Champagne and rosé were some of the offerings at cocktail hour, carefully positioned to show case the view.

As was the hotel's restaurant, Le Café l’Envol.....

The cuisine was a delicious work of art without being pretentious and it was reasonably priced.

View the menu here.

Breakfast was served on the upper terrace at Le Club Papillon with sweeping views across the glistening, blue water.

The breakfast buffet was a sumptuous feast, we certainly didn't need lunch!

After 2 days of  indulgence we decided to explore a little further and visited Gassin one of Les plus beau villages de France, a medieval village high above the beautiful Saint-Tropez Peninsular.

Jean-Luc Ducreux' incredible bronze and steel sculpture dangled by the village entrance.

Where 'Don Quixote' seemed to be guarding the secrets of this picturesque little spot.

And it was really very pretty.

A visit to one of Les beau villages never disappoints.

We stopped on the short drive back at the beach near Croix-Valmer.

Where we were enticed to stay for dinner with the sand between our toes.

Gambas et frites..... très délicieux!

We only had a few days in this little haven,

and it was hard to tear ourselves away.

Only open a few years, we've already booked to go back. If you'd like to visit Hôtel La Villa La Duce click here, it's cheaper to book direct!

Where do you like to stay on the Côte d'Azur?

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Why you should include a visit to Lourmarin and the Luberon on a trip to Provence

Lourmarin is a tiny, medieval village huddled under the southern Luberon’s gently folded landscape.

Resplendent with vineyards, olive groves, abundant fruit trees, timeless perched villages and in the summer, endless fields of sunflowers and fragrant lavender.

A magical place of meandering, cobbled streets lined with crumbling clay tiled, golden stone buildings, watch the video here.

Lourmarin is full of vibrant cafes and restaurants, a handful of chic boutiques and enticing art galleries.

Every Friday it is host to a bustling market, colourful stores packed with locally grown produce.

Table cloths flap in the gentle breeze alongside baskets and all the treasures of a Provencal marché

A tour round Lourmarin’s mystical 15th century château should not be missed nor an evening at one of its’ lavish music concerts.

The nearby enchanting perched villages are well worth exploring, especially Bonnieux, Goult, Ménerbes, Lacoste,  Oppède-le-Vieux, Roussillon and Gordes & despite Lourmarin itself not being ‘perched’ its’ mesmerizing beauty has won it the honor of being one of ‘les plus beaux villages de France.’ Watch the video tour of the Luberon villages here

Every Sunday there is an incredible antiques market and Provencal market at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a pretty 30 minute drive along the Luberon Valley. Get there before 9.30am as the parking can be very busy!

Just 68km to the north lies the stunning wall city of Avignon, watch the video tour here

37km to the south is the vibrant university town, Aix-en-Provence.

A short drive further the coastal towns of Bandol and Cassis and the sparkling Cote d’Azur.

It is no surprise that living near Lourmarin inspired Peter Mayle to write; ('A Year in Provence', 'A Good Year')  for the region's timeless beauty reaches into the soul, it is utterly captivating.

How to get to Lourmarin

The nearest major airport is Marseilles (MRS), a 45 minute drive from Lourmarin. There are numerous international connections to Paris, London, Frankfurt, Munich & other major European cities. If driving, Lourmarin is about 20km from the A7 autoroute traveling north and the A51 to the A8 is 20km to the south.

What to see and do in Lourmarin

Lourmarin is in the Luberon Valley in the Vaucluse department of Provence, in south eastern France. A small enchanting area of sprawling vineyards, olive trees, sunflowers, shuttered, limestone buildings and medieval villages. Stunningly beautiful, people come to stay in Lourmarin to just ‘be’; to spend long, lazy days under cornflower blue skies, lavender perfuming the air and crickets chattering through the night. It’s intoxicating, a place of artists and authors, a place to dream about and yearn for when you are far away

THE LOURMARIN CHATEAU

A part of Lourmarin since the 12th century, it now hosts many wonderful performances and exhibitions and every summer is home to artists, writers and musicians.

THE LOURMARIN MARKET

Every Friday 8.30am -1.00pm the streets are bursting with a vibrant collection of wonderful local produce & all things Provencal. Unlike some, The Lourmarin market operates year round.

Other Luberon Markets: (NB: some are seasonal)
Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris
Tuesday: Cucuron, Gordes. Lacoste
Wednesday: Merindol, Pertuis, Salt,
Thursday: Goult, Menerbes Rousillon
Friday: Lourmarin, Bonnieux
Saturday: Apt
Sunday: L'Isle sue La Sorgue

Where to stay in Lourmarin

RENTING A PROPERTY

You can rent my house, Maison des Cerises, right in the middle village!

Completely renovated (December 2017) it has air-conditioning, two double bedrooms – both with en-suites bathrooms – a terrace, separate laundry (washer and drier) Wifi, Smart TV and American style fridge freezer. Do contact me if you are interested!

Renting a house provides a tiny snapshot of what it is like to actually live here; having more space to relax and shop in the local stores and markets to cook at home. If my house is unavailable or doesn't suit, Nikki at Rent Our Home  offers a charming selection of other properties.

HOTELS & BED & BREAKFASTS

LE MOULIN DE LOURMARIN

Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 68 06 69 Price: €150 -€450 per night (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. A boutique hotel set within an old olive mill  located in the center of the village.

HOTEL BASTIDE DE LOURMARIN Route de Cucuron, 84160 Lourmarin  +33 (0)4 90 07 00 70  Price from €140 great central location with pool, spa and restaurant.

MAISON COLLONGUE 44 Chemin de Collongue 84160 Lourmarin  + 33 (0)4 90 77 44 69 Price: From €150 per room Closed beginning of the year 5 luxurious modern bedrooms, within a Provencal Mas.Breakfast included, brunch on request €27. On Tuesdays, a fabulous dinner is served in the garden, €75 per person Lovely pool and gardens to relax in, on site massages can be arranged.

COTE LOURMARIN Impasse du Pont du Temple, 84420 Lourmarin  +33 (0)6 09 16 9180 Price: €170- 250. A beautiful, historic mansion offering accommodation in 2 elegant rooms. Decorated with exquisite taste by your charming hostess, for whom nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast included, brunch available on request €18.

MAS DE LA LOMBARDE  Puyvert  BP 32 84160 Lourmarin + 33 (0)4 90 09 97 40 Price: from €160 Closed November – March, check website.An exceptional place offering varied options; stay within the honied walls of an old Mas or at the neighbouring old domaine, both minutes from Lourmarin. Rent the newly renovated chic, apartment in the village. Enjoy the pool and the gardens from the shade of the old truffle oaks,  it will be hard to tear yourself away!

HOTEL AUBERGE DE LA FENIÈRE Route de Lourmarin [ D943 ] 84160 Cadenet  +33 (0)4 90 68 11 79 Price: €150 enquire from website (breakfast buffet €18.00 per person) Closed: mid January - February. Hotel Auberge de La Fenière is a 4 star boutique hotel just 2 miles from Lourmarin. One gourmet restaurant (closed Mondays and Tuesdays)and a more casual Bistro offering  a gluten free menu. (closed Wednesday and Thursday)

LAURIS

DOMAINE DE FONTENILLE Route de Roquefraiche, 84360 Lauris +33 4 13 98 00 00 Price: from €170

A luxury spa retreat just 10 minutes from Lourmarin set within beautiful grounds adjacent to its wine domaine, with two good restaurants: Le Champ des Lunes, & La Cuisine d'Amélie, gorgeous!

BONNIEUX

There are several excellent choices in this pretty perched village, which seemingly hangs on the hillside, just 20 minutes from Lourmarin

DOMAINE DE CAPELONGUE Chemin des Cabanes, Les Claparèdes, 84480 Bonnieux  + 33 (0)4 90 75 89 78 Price: from €180 enquire from website

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"Life is what happens when you're busy doing other things." Words of wisdom I've often heard from a dear friend, for indeed sometimes life does throw you off course and you find yourself in unexpected circumstances. Such was our story when we returned from Lourmarin to California last December when unexpected knee surgery meant that the biggest decision of my day became whether I should attempt to stand. But nothing lasts forever, time heals and despite the uncertainty of whether I'd be able to travel, just a few weeks ago we were outside the door to our little house. It felt a million miles away from our 'other life' but we were back.

As we strolled down our street into the village the next morning everything was just as we'd left it. When we're not there, Lourmarin, and our life there, really does feel 'a million miles away'. It takes on a dream like quality and after a while I find myself questioning, is it really as special as my reminiscences? The fact that on our return it actually is, always brings me such joy, why do I persistently doubt myself?

Sipping coffee outside Café Gaby, watching the world stroll by, our morning baguette just purchased, it felt as if we'd never been away.

A few days before Easter, when visitors would be returning, the village was ready. Restaurant tables and chairs were neatly arranged and fresh flowers carefully placed. The shops were newly stocked with temptations, their enticing displays spilling out onto the streets.

On Friday market day the village began to bustle.

At this time of year local asparagus and strawberries dominate the grocery stalls, deliciously sweet with their promise of summer.

The band was back in their regular spot filling the air with a their melodious sound, contributing to the festive atmosphere.

And within days we were returning to the places we love.

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ~Sunday market day

The Antique Fair at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the Antique Capital of Provence with its plethora of antique shops and galleries. Each Sunday, alongside a traditional Provencal market, there is an antique market. In addition, twice a year, a spectacular Antiques Fair settles itself within this delightful little town. We wandered from stall to stall hoping to discover an irresistible temptation!

Tintin

This year, amongst all the antique treasures sat a Tintin display. Who doesn't remember this courageous Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy? Created by Georges Remi, a Belgian cartoonist, who wrote under the pen name Hergé, the adventures of Tintin first appeared in 1929 in Le Petit Vingtième. It became one of the most popular European comic stores of the 20th century, published in more than 70 languages with sales over over 70 million and adapted for radio, television and film. If anyone wanted a souvenir of their childhood hero, here it was!

Château la Coste

La Terrasse at Château la Coste

Sat at a brightly coloured bistro table, under the trellis at Château la Coste's La Terrasse restaurant, listening to the soft chuckle of the fountain and the charming lilting tones of excited French chatter, is one of favourite lunchtime spots.

Château La Coste is a stunning wine domain 14km from Aix-en-Provence. It showcases not only fine wine but food, (La Terrasse being just one of of its five restaurants) art, architecture and well-being.

THE ART AND ARCHITECTURE WALK

Art is a particular feature at Château La Coste. The Art and Architecture Walk is a two hour stroll between the olive groves and vines, where one meanders through the woods stopping to admire the incredible pieces of modern art which pepper the walk. I wasn't quite up for a walk that long but I'm hoping to do is soon.

Open March 1st – November 1st Everyday 10 am – 7 pm
November 2 – February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Dominating the art collection is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue 'The Crouching Spider'. The spider hovers just above the glistening water by the Art Center, its' twisting, muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the surrounding vines

This year even the trees beside the restaurants reflect the artistic vibe, adorned with golden bauble necklaces

And let's not forget the wine!

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00. Learn more here.

At the end of the day, our terrace seems to be the perfect place to enjoy a local vintage, admiring our view as slowly the sky changes color and nightfall settles itself upon the village.

And so Lourmarin is no longer a million miles away. As we settle back into our life in Provence it's now our other life that begins to flicker, rippling like reflections on the water until we return.

This time we're here for a while, battling the detritus of Brexit we have long stay visas. We have so much to look forward to, most of all just 'being' in this special place, 'busy' with the 'business of living', living in Provence. September will come quickly, and Maison des Cerises will be then be available (as it is for a short while in July & August) should you want to sample this enchanting little corner of France.

A bientôt!

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We departed Lourmarin just as winter had arrived, with Christmas round the corner. The trees were almost bare, only a few remnants of their golden autumn gown still clinging to the branches. Temperatures had fallen, especially when the Mistral blew her cruel, icy breath down the Rhône Valley. There were occasional early morning frosts and mists creeping across the ground at first light. But most days the skies were still cornflower blue, with bright, dazzling rays of sunlight illuminating the world with a clarity only found in Provence. Perfect conditions for the olive harvest.

It's barely been two weeks since we were there, and now, from so far away, it's hard to believe it's all just as we left it. The air perfumed with woodsmoke, and an air of expectancy swirling below the strings of twinkling lights. Below them, along the Lourmarin streets, carefully positioned baby sapins proudly displaying cheery crimson bows.

Brightly decorated shop fronts, our wonderful artist Isirdi's Gallery looking splendid.

Many strung with tiny sparkles.

A profusion of temptations enticingly displayed.

One of my favorite at this time of year, La Maison Franc, their beautiful lavender wands and boules a special treat for the Christmas tree.

Lourmarin's delightful new Boucherie was preparing to supply the village with an array of delicious, festive food!

The weekly markets still arriving, somewhat depleted except for food stalls, happy to help the locals to stock the local people's Christmas pantries.

Warm lazy days sipping rosé in the shade were a distant memory. But café terraces still bustled, their patrons swaddled in coats and scarves, huddled around steaming hot drinks.

Christmas markets were popping up each weekend, we visited this one in the pretty fishing town of Cassis.

Tethered boats bobbed in Cassis harbor where we enjoyed lunch on the quayside.

And in Aix-en-Provence, its famous Cours Mirabeau was lined with a white ribbon of festive stalls.

Provencal gifts from the region; lavender products, incredible carved chocolate sets,

Calissons, a local almond paste speciality.

Festive bow ties.

presents made of wood,

and Santons, the hand-painted terracotta scene figurines made to decorate Provencal Nativity Crèches.

The Christmas Traditions of Provence

The Santons

Santons were first created during the French Revolution by Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822), an artisan from Marseilles. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene had about 55 Santons, depicting not only religious characters but local figures from ordinary life. To this day the Santons are positioned around a traditional crib scene surrounded by small buildings from the village.

Santon fairs take place all over Provence and officially mark the beginning of the Christmas season. We admired the Santon nativity scene displayed inside the magnificent cathedral of Aix-en-Provence, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur.

Le blé de la Sainte-Barbe

Christmas in Provence begins on December 4th, the day of Ste-Barbe. In the days before Christmas little bags of wheat are sold or handed out free at boulangeries. Ste Barbe is celebrated by planting this wheat in small pots. The belief is, that if the wheat grows straight the year ahead will be prosperous.

Traditionally families grow 3 pots of wheat to represent the Holy Trinity. These pots decorate the table on Christmas Eve for the Gros Souper. This is a meatless meal, often beginning with a garlic soup, followed by a fish dish and thirteen desserts. After the Christmas day lunchtime meal the wheat is placed in the crèche among the santons, laid there to symbolise the fields.

Les Treize Desserts~ the 13 desserts

Les Treize desserts is an ancient tradition and steeped in symbolism, thirteen representing the Last Supper with Jesus and the 12 Apostles.

Although it is now possible to buy a simplified, boxed version, traditionally the 13 desserts would have included dried and fresh fruit, two types of nougat, candied fruit and Fougasse, a flatbread made of olive oil and orange flower water. The custom is that the fougasse should be torn not sliced, to do otherwise is to cause financial ruin for the coming year! The desserts are often eaten after Midnight Mass and served together with vin cuit, a fortified wine. Everyone is meant to try a little of each dessert.

Provence and Lourmarin seem very far away from California. And since we left, winter has dusted our little village with a coat of snow. I've been there when it snows, when my fairy tale village seems even more magical, as it waits patiently for Christmas.

I hope you're waiting patiently, not too tied up in wrapping paper, tinsel and chaos!

Wishing you all a Happy Christmas wherever in the world you may be

and thank you for loyally following my ramblings!

The post Christmas in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We continued our exploration of the Aveyron, weaving our way through the lush countryside with its deep red earth. We stopped off in more of the region's story book villages, (all one of 'Les Plus Beau Villages de France' ) where we unravelled a little more of the remarkable history of this lovely part of France. An hours drive north of our hotel, Château de Labro, we visited the medieval village of Conques and gazed in wonder at the gold relic of Saint Foy. The following day, traveling south back towards Montpellier, we found ourselves surrounded by the hills and gorges of the Tarn in Le Parc naturel régional des Grands Causses, a stunning UNESCO parkland. Here we sampled it's famous  cheese, made in the park's nearby caves. Our final stop was a step back in time where we learnt the fascinating story of the Orders of The Knights Templars and Knights Hospitaller.

Salles La Source

Salles La Source is a picturesque village nestled in the foothills of the Causse Comtal. It clings to the cliff on over three stories winding its way up to meet a rolling plateau up on the higher elevations.

The Cascade waterfall is its famous landmark, uniquely situated in the center of the village.

Conques

Conques is a simple, but breathtaking monastic village which tumbles over the edge of a wild gorge by the River Dourdou. As you wander its tiny streets it feels as if you've stepped into a fairy tale.

Narrow passageways wind their way through the village,

and steep cobbled steps lead you down toward the villages's focal point, The Abbey of Saint Foy.

The Abbey of Sainte Foy, visible from every vista, is on one of the pilgrimage routes to Saint-Jacques- de-Compostelle, a Catholic pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, the alleged burial site of the Apostle St James.

The hushed cloisters of The Abbey's unadorned interior mystically adds to its magnificence.

In the adjoining Abbey Chapter building rests 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', a masterpiece relic statuette. The dedication of relics was commonplace in the Middle Ages but this one is particularly stunning, well worth the small admission charge to view it.

Only 85 cm high, 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', is made of yew, covered with gold, gilded silver, enamel and set with gems. It enshrines the skull of Saint Foy, a twelve year old, Catholic martyr who was tortured for refusing to renounce his faith. Legend has it that in 995 a miracle occurred when a blind pilgrim prayed to Saint Foy and had his sight restored. Pilgrims subsequently flocked to visit the relic, which, in the 12th century led to the rebuilding of the original abbey. This was later replaced by the great romanesque abbey we see today. Every year, on the Sunday following October 6 (feast of Saint Foy), The Majesty of Saint Foy', is transferred from its exhibition place, next to the abbey  and placed inside the abbey itself.

Timber framed buildings line the small square outside the Abbey hanging from the street above it.

Conques was perhaps the most impressive of all 'les plus beau villages' we visited in the Aveyron, an impression perhaps helped by the delicious steak frites we enjoyed in the warm sunshine below the Abbey's towering face.

Brousse le Château

Dating back to the 13th century this veritable fortress, like others of its kind, was built to protect its occupants from local invasions and during The Hundred Years War, from 1337, from the English!

The keep and towers of the ramparts which remain in good condition, are fine examples of late fifteenth century architecture.

We wandered the surrounding streets, seemingly deserted despite the evidence that people still lived there.

The village shop was a wonderfully preserved example of a timber framed, medieval building.

Roquefort-sur-Soulzon

Situated in the Grands Causses Regional Natural Park, at the foot of the Combalou mountain, are the caves used to ripen the cheese, Roquefort Société.

The caves were created over a million years ago after the mountain collapsed. Cracks, known as fleurines were left in these caves creating a natural thermal regulation. The caves were first used in the Middle ages, restored in the 17th century and then enlarged by the Roquefort Société, a brand created in 1842 which brought together fifteen local merchants and refiners.

Roquefort is made from the unpasteurized milk of local Lacaune Ewes between January and July. Reportedly, this creamy, blue veined cheese was discovered when a young shepherd boy left his cheese in one of the caves by mistake; when he remembered and came to collect it he found far from being ruined, the cheese had improved, the natural conditions of the caves had enhanced its taste. Today micro-organisms found in penicillium roqueforti are added to the milk before the cheese is formed. Roquefort Société is the only cheese maker that produces all its penicillium on site.

The caves are 11 stories high with fleurines on every level.

The cheese is ripened in the stone cellars which can holding up to 300, 000 loaves of cheese and as many as 1, 400, 000 in an entire season. The cheese loaves are placed by hand on the salted wooden shelves, the air being constantly renewed by the natural fleurines.

It is here that the penicillium roqueforti develops. The salt melts and is diffused and the cheese becomes creamy. Taking between 14-25 days, the cellar master plays a key role in the process.

All the attributes of this unique environment, the stone, the wood and wind from the fleurines, play an essential role in making the distinctive cheese we know today.

Roquefort Société World War II heros

In 1942, the managing directors of the Roquefort Société, Léon Freychet and Jean Bosc, together with some others opened a 'youth hostel' in nearby Tendigues to hide people, weapons and supplies for the Resistance.

When the Village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon was invaded on January 1st 1944, Bosc and Freychet escaped. Freychet was later captured and sent to Buchenwald Concentration Camp. He survived, and on his return from Buchenwald was instrumental in creating the company's worker's committee, a research laboratory and a training center for young shepherds.

La Couvertoirade in Larzac, the county of the Templars

La Couvertoirade lies in the Larzac Valley about 45km south of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon still in the Parc natural regional des Grands Causses.

Outside the village by the ramparts is La Cour Neuve (The New Yard), built between 1439-1445 during the Hundreds Years War. It was here that goods for the village were unloaded and through the centuries it was where the consuls gathered for public meetings.

Entering the village under the archway, to then walk along the medieval streets, one is immediately  plunged back into the past.

La Couvertoirade is one of several villages founded by The Knights Templar and then fortified by The Knights Hospitallers.

The Knights Templar were formed in 1118 by Hugh de Payens, a knight from the Champagne region of France to protect pilgrims traveling to The Holy Land. In 1128 the Treaty of Troyes gave them official approval and for 150 years they grouped together around settlements such as La Couvertoirade. The Order prospered acquiring land and many new noble members. But, in 1312, it was abolished by the Pope and all its possessions were given to the Knights Hospitaller of St. John of Jerusalem.

The Hospitaller were a military order established around 1070 to manage a hospital for sick pilgrims in Jerusalem. In 1310 they had become the Knights of Rhodes. They enriched the villages of the Larzac region until the 16th century when they were taken over by the Hugenots. From 1530 they were known as the Knights of Malta. They wore a black habit, with a white eight-pointed Maltese Cross. Some members later moved to Russia where the order collapsed in the early 1800’s. In the 1830’s the Order was restored in England and still remains today caring for the sick.

Lodève

Our last stop in Larzac, the county of the Hospitaller, was Lodève where we visited St Fulcran Cathedral, a Gothic 13th and 14th century cathedral dedicated to St-Géniez and then St Fulcran.

Our trip ended in Arles back in Provence. An hour from home we stopped and eat dinner under the Roman arches of this beautiful city's amphitheatre.  Inspired by the Roman Coliseum it was built in 90AD and is still in use today. So much history in this mystical part of France.

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On Saturday we went back to the beautiful bastide town of Uzès. An hour and a half from Lourmarin, just west of Avignon, we often visit on a Saturday. We get up early to stop off on route at the Antique Market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, a weekly event across the river from Avignon, to then hurry on to Uzès where on a Saturday Uzès plays host to arguably one of the finest markets in the region. This delightful duchy holds a special place in my heart. It's where we lived in 2012 and where the story of Shutters and Sunflowers began. It's also the stage for my World War II historical novel, The Sunflower Field, the true story of the Polish cryptologists who having cracked The Enigma Code in 1932, lived in hiding in Uzès, for two years during the war.

And within minutes of arriving back I was reminded of the inspiration for the title of my blog. The shutters adorning the windows of Uzès that so captivated me,

and the golden smiling faces of the sunflowers, which long after they've danced their annual repertoire in nearby fields, still fill the flower baskets in the market.

A market that was in full swing when we found our way there, shaded below its' leafy canopy in Uzès central square, Place-aux-Herbes.

Amongst the abundance of fresh produce was local purple garlic,

and colorful whicker baskets, greatly reduced in price as the summer season has begun to dwindle to a close.

And announcing the arrival of autumn, there was a wide variety of mushrooms, including a Provençal speciality, cèpes, only available for a few weeks at this time of year.

The market winds its way along the cobbled streets between the town's splendid golden arches.

And by lunchtime the restaurant tables are full, weary shoppers tempted by the plat du jours. Laughter and chatter fill the air and no-one seems to notice the market slowly slip away.

Leaving the bustle behind, it's an ideal time to explore the now deserted streets.

One quickly becomes immersed in the charming ambience of this truly special place. A timeless enchantment which never fades.

The worn steps of Rue rue Saint-Théodorit entice us down.

And finding our way back to Place-aux-Herbes, all swept and cleaned, it's hard to believe just moments earlier this was the hub of a busy, heaving market.

Crossing the square we wandered into a local favorite, the one shop I always have to return to, Les Pots d'Uzès

I wished I could buy some more, especially the very largest ones for my outdoor patio.

I had to content myself with just looking ......

As we made our way back through the streets we caught a glimpse of one of the treasures of Uzès, the Fenestrelle Tower, peeking its head above the roof tops.

Nearby a sunflower smiled in greeting outside one of the local artisan's shops.

We passed by more ancient, shuttered buildings,

and lingered for one last time in Place-aux-Herbes, not wanting to leave.

Standing wistfully outside the house where we lived (which I've featured in my novel)

we wandered back down the street and as always, I wondered disloyally, if maybe we should have bought in Uzès, it always beguiles me so....

Driving back, we promised ourselves to soon make a trip back to the magnificent walled city of Avignon.

And through the front windscreen, as we caught a glimpse of Le Pont Saint Benezet, we found ourselves humming the nursery tune we'd both learned in Primary school, 'Sur la Pont d'Avignon...'

That evening, back in Lourmarin, sitting outside our beloved Café Gaby, my doubts about where we should have our house in Provence, fade. I'll always adore Uzès and love every moment we spend there, but this is where we belong.....

Come and see for yourself!

Download  The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès my travel tips about Uzès

Rent Maison des Cerises ~our house in Provence, already taking bookings for 2022!

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I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

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It’s May and the poppies are blooming in Provence. Their tiny black faces almost obscured by their bright red hats, delicate, vibrant, petals wafting in the breeze.

Last year I was in Lourmarin admiring them. This year I should have been too but then the world stopped and everything changed.

But I know they're smiling once again, amid the olive trees, in the fields and along the country road sides.

A dotted carpet of crimson hats will be splashed in front of the Lourmarin château.

There’s no red poppies in northern California, where I live, 30 miles east of the City by the Bay. But in this beautiful, scenic area, in both the gardens and on the rolling hills above my house there are a mass of wild flowers, including local poppies.

Californian poppies, the dazzling orange little cousins of the poppies from Provence. This poppy, the Golden Poppy, is native to California. It grows wildly in great abundance and in 1903 was made the official state flower.

I'm sad to not be in Lourmarin and can you blame me....

But I'm lucky to be somewhere also very lovely, it's not too bad a view where I live!

And as an English girl, who might well be confused, living in California but passionately in love with Provence, I couldn't write about poppies without explaining their huge significance back at home.

Growing up in England, where poppies  flourish later in the year, I’d always associated them with the end of summer not the start. But most of all I think of them on Poppy Day, in November, dedicated to the remembrance of all those that fell among the fields of northern France and Belgium in World War I.

And those poppies that fringed the battlefields at Ypres in 1915 became immortalized in the words of a Canadian Soldier, Major John Macrae

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below

****

And as an English girl, so connected to the USA and France, the story of the poppies is entwined with these three places I hold so dear. For we owe the origins of the poppy as a symbol of remembrance to an American woman, Moina Michael, who having read In Flanders fields campaigned tirelessly for the poppy to be adopted as a symbol of Remembrance in the USA. In September 1920 the National American Legion agreed and inspired by Moina’s idea, a French woman, Anna Guerin, expanded it to help all those in need amongst the allies of France in Europe.

A year later, on November 11th 1921, Anna sent some French women to London to sell their artificial red poppies on Remembrance Day. It became the emblem for The Royal British Legion who every since have used the funds from Poppy Day to help a multitude of charitable causes.

Wherever you might be reading this I hope you have some flowers to brighten your day. In these difficult days of worry, whether red or orange, regardless of their color or where they grow, a bunch of flowers will cheer your spirits. Something I'm wishing for you all, with a speedy end to all uncertainty, when we we can all move freely and safely as we did before. Stay safe and well my friends.

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These are unprecedented times. As I type those words, I cannot help but think of another unprecedented time when the world faced a different peril. I’ve often wondered if I’d been alive then, would I have had what it takes to be extraordinary.... just as those working in health care services all over the world are doing right now.

I have no medical skills to offer but maybe I can send a little cheer through words and photos taken at this time of year from the special places that I’m so privileged to say are part of my life.

From California

to England

and a tiny village where church bells tell the time.

Families were torn apart eighty years ago, their loved ones fighting a battle few could understand. Today the world is confronting a different menace, one that's also difficult to understand. One that separates us, people feel isolated and scared, unable to leave their homes, bewildered by this unseen enemy.

But we can still connect with each other; social media and conference video tools allow us to see each other’s smiles across the continents and they're free. Last night all across France church bells rang in a sign of unity. I was sent this from my lovely village of Lourmarin, where the bells I hear across the roof tops I see from my terrace (above) sung too, it was snowing, frozen tears of unity....

This morning heart was warmed listening to Australia's Couch Choir created from over 1000 videos from across the world.

"There's so many people feeling isolated at the moment … we can't be near each other, and Couch Choir is a solution to that." Astrid Jorgensen creator of Couch choir.

Inspiring ideas spread fast, even before I published this I was sent this link to a similar choir singing in Boston at the Berklee College of Music.

Many of us can still take a walk and feel fresh air on our faces. I'm so blessed with views like this, to be in a beautiful open space minutes from my own front door.

Take joy from the natural beauty that maybe you've never really appreciated before.

Everyone everywhere is asking the same question, when will it be safe for life to return to normal? I wish I knew. I wish I could wake up in the morning to a new day when none of this was happening. Everything looks the same but everything's changed, for now....

It's essential we all do our part, that we stop the virus spreading, washing our hands correctly, adhering to social distancing and quarantining if we become sick. However frustrating this might be if we don’t follow this advice someone might die, lots of someone’s.

Difficult times often bring out the best in people. Today I learned about a volunteer group #STUDENTSAGAINSTCORONA started by college students in England but now spreading across the world. Thank you to them and others; those who are shopping for neighbors, delivering them medications and essential supplies. Thank you to those who are still working trying to preserve important services, to those who have come out of retirement to support health care systems, and to those who have turned their skills to make things at home like much needed face masks. Maybe some of these people feel they're only making a tiny difference but together they're making a big one.

We have no one who can mobilize the English language and send it in to battle. Few leaders who clearly communicate, reassure and inspire us with hope for a brighter future. If we did, I’m sure we’d be told as I am telling you now that if each and every one of us does our part all will be well….. eventually and it will.

Stay safe, stay well, fight coronavirus. Hope still waits at the end of the rainbow.

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