'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

On Saturday we went back to the beautiful bastide town of Uzès. An hour and a half from Lourmarin, just west of Avignon, we often visit on a Saturday. We get up early to stop off on route at the Antique Market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, a weekly event across the river from Avignon, to then hurry on to Uzès where on a Saturday Uzès plays host to arguably one of the finest markets in the region. This delightful duchy holds a special place in my heart. It's where we lived in 2012 and where the story of Shutters and Sunflowers began. It's also the stage for my World War II historical novel, The Sunflower Field, the true story of the Polish cryptologists who having cracked The Enigma Code in 1932, lived in hiding in Uzès, for two years during the war.

And within minutes of arriving back I was reminded of the inspiration for the title of my blog. The shutters adorning the windows of Uzès that so captivated me,

and the golden smiling faces of the sunflowers, which long after they've danced their annual repertoire in nearby fields, still fill the flower baskets in the market.

A market that was in full swing when we found our way there, shaded below its' leafy canopy in Uzès central square, Place-aux-Herbes.

Amongst the abundance of fresh produce was local purple garlic,

and colorful whicker baskets, greatly reduced in price as the summer season has begun to dwindle to a close.

And announcing the arrival of autumn, there was a wide variety of mushrooms, including a Provençal speciality, cèpes, only available for a few weeks at this time of year.

The market winds its way along the cobbled streets between the town's splendid golden arches.

And by lunchtime the restaurant tables are full, weary shoppers tempted by the plat du jours. Laughter and chatter fill the air and no-one seems to notice the market slowly slip away.

Leaving the bustle behind, it's an ideal time to explore the now deserted streets.

One quickly becomes immersed in the charming ambience of this truly special place. A timeless enchantment which never fades.

The worn steps of Rue rue Saint-Théodorit entice us down.

And finding our way back to Place-aux-Herbes, all swept and cleaned, it's hard to believe just moments earlier this was the hub of a busy, heaving market.

Crossing the square we wandered into a local favorite, the one shop I always have to return to, Les Pots d'Uzès

I wished I could buy some more, especially the very largest ones for my outdoor patio.

I had to content myself with just looking ......

As we made our way back through the streets we caught a glimpse of one of the treasures of Uzès, the Fenestrelle Tower, peeking its head above the roof tops.

Nearby a sunflower smiled in greeting outside one of the local artisan's shops.

We passed by more ancient, shuttered buildings,

and lingered for one last time in Place-aux-Herbes, not wanting to leave.

Standing wistfully outside the house where we lived (which I've featured in my novel)

we wandered back down the street and as always, I wondered disloyally, if maybe we should have bought in Uzès, it always beguiles me so....

Driving back, we promised ourselves to soon make a trip back to the magnificent walled city of Avignon.

And through the front windscreen, as we caught a glimpse of Le Pont Saint Benezet, we found ourselves humming the nursery tune we'd both learned in Primary school, 'Sur la Pont d'Avignon...'

That evening, back in Lourmarin, sitting outside our beloved Café Gaby, my doubts about where we should have our house in Provence, fade. I'll always adore Uzès and love every moment we spend there, but this is where we belong.....

Come and see for yourself!

Download  The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès my travel tips about Uzès

Rent Maison des Cerises ~our house in Provence, already taking bookings for 2022!

The post Uzès where Shutters and Sunflowers began appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

I was so happy to learn from my friends in Lourmarin that the Friday market is allowed to return tomorrow; with social distancing measures of course. After so many weeks of not being permitted, I'm thrilled for all the local vendors, and the shoppers too, who appreciate and love the Lourmarin market as much as me.

Because of the virus I can't be there, but I can imagine the white vans filling the car park outside my house and the stalls springing up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy, spilling out along the streets. To all of you that can be there, grab your baskets and enjoy ambling through the stalls. And as you make your purchases, from all that wonderful Provencal abundance, think of me, thinking of you, wishing I was could be there to join you.

Delicious local seasonal produce, all types of sensory pleasures on which to indulge.

Locally picked strawberries

Cheeses

 Saucissons

Olives

Crystalized fruit

Cordials

Nougat

Fresh flowers

and other indulgences, of which you can never have too many!

Savon de Marseille

 Provencal linens

and brightly colored pottery

Maybe in a new basket, there's always so many to choose from

to fill with things that encapsulate the essence of Provence,

and perhaps even a little wooden tool that you never knew you needed..

 Maybe not all of these will be there, but they'll be others just as enticing.....

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

Perhaps the musicians will have returned to serenade you below my favorite terrace at La Maison Café

And then you can enjoy lunch at Café Gaby, not looking quite like it did here, but still just as special.

Hopefully the other markets are opening too, including Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Next time I share a market story from Provence, I'll be there, celebrating that the world is a safer place. Until then take care.

And if you can get there, remember my house, in the village is available to rent.

You can see a video with information here, do contact me and I'd be happy to tell you more.

The post The Lourmarin market, re-opening this Friday!! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Early on Friday morning, around when the clock chimes eight, the sound of clanking metal posts gently peppers the air. White vans fill the car park outside my door and market stalls spring up in Lourmarin's Place Henri Barthélémy spilling out along the streets. Friday is market day in Lourmarin and as I grab my basket, no matter how many times I've ambled through its' stalls, I wonder, 'what might I find today?'

Delicious local produce,

mouthwatering seasonal offerings,

 freshly picked and often just dug from the earth.

Sensory pleasures

to taste

and smell.

 Gifts from Provence to take back home,

maybe in a new basket?

So many to choose from

and fill with things encapsulating the essence of Provence.

And when your shopping's over, a café or a glass of rosé?

I love the terrace of La Maison Café where you're serenaded from the street below.

And then maybe lunch at Café Gaby, merging into the ambience of this special corner of Provence.

And if you can't wait until next week, there's many other markets quite close by just begging to be explored, not forgetting Lourmarin's organic market on Tuesday evenings.

Nearby Markets of Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin 5.00- 8.00 organic produce

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Download the printable The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region

The post Friday is market day in Lourmarin! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

As my stylish, little, Italian designed, rental car nipped along the twisting curves of Provence's Luberon Valley towards Lourmarin my heart skipped a beat in excited anticipation. Fields of lush vineyards flanked the narrow roadside, row after row of low lying bushes, their sun kissed leaves shading bunches of what looked like fat, black pearl earring clusters, drooping heavily to kiss the rich earth below them. The sky, although cloudless and bright had that feint hint of hazy pink and the air was perfumed with a musty, oaky, ‘wood barrel' aroma so typical of a warm autumn afternoon by the vineyards. The road ended in front of a golden, stone, clay tiled, winery where I turned right. I slipped passed the gently swaying olive trees, their silvery green boughs almost waving in welcome and then round the corner was that view, so well remembered, that I knew couldn’t fail to make me gasp, I was back in my special place, in Lourmarin.
I had to stop to simply stare, and be utterly captivated, again!

Close by were yet more olive trees, so typical of Provence.


Then we made our way along the beautiful leafy canopy shading the main road into this enchanting 'beaux village de France'.

Having parked, we ambled through the bustling little village to collect our house keys.

Mark, at Cafe Gaby was there to greet us with a warm welcome.

Glimpsing up the narrow cobbled streets, all seemed just as I left it.

The shops just as enticing

and the roof top views just as beguiling,

no matter the direction you glanced.

It was a heavenly week sampling the local cheeses and vin rosé.

It is impossible to tire of touring the local the perched villages of the Luberon, Gordes;

and the warm ochre hues of Roussillon.

Despite the relentless rain on our last day, the Lourmarin market still made a vibrant appearance,

the highlight being its' fat wheels of delicious french cheese,

and of course much more besides.

As I tried to encapsulate this beautiful little place I wondered when I would be here again. Thank you to all my Provencal friends in Lourmarin for making me feel like I belong; Claudie, Mark, Simone, Valerie and Walter, you all know I will be coming back!

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