'Home is where the heart is', or so the expression goes. My heart is somewhat fragmented, with those I love and the places I own spread across two continents. When I'm in one place, I think of the other. I'm so often torn and confused as if there's some divine rule book telling me I should choose just one, the one I should prefer and always want to be. Maybe my dilemma is tied up in the simple fact that my home is in two extraordinarily special locations. The fairytale village of Lourmarin, a hodgepodge of enchanting, creamy buildings huddled below a hillside in Provence and the sweeping white shores of Carmel, California, lined with its majestic cypress trees, part of a beautiful and dramatic coastline. 5000 miles apart, but both equally entwined within my heart.

I walk most days along the Carmel shoreline marveling at its ever changing drama and beauty. A spectacle of crashing waves curling up onto the shore, otters and sea lions disappearing into their frothy playground, pelicans and seagulls swopping and diving overhead.

It's rare that at as I stroll past this Pacific jewel I don't think of that other place, of the walks I take there and the equally mezmerising splendour of a tiny Provencal village, that so stirs my soul. In writing this post it took me a long time to select the photos, I have so many of both Carmel and Lourmarin. In either place I seem to be constantly clicking the camera shutter, trying to imprint their beauty and the emotion they evoke, hoping to ensure their image is always with me. As if I really need to do so, they're both already firmly planted in my heart.

In a few weeks I will be returning to Lourmarin. Opening our front door, where right now the cherry trees are blossoming.

And by May, when we arrive, their boughs will be bending with an abundance of fruit.

I'll step inside and doubtless a tear will fall before I unfasten the shutters and throw open the windows allowing the fresh air and warm Provençal sunlight to pour in.

And upstairs from our terrace, I'll stare across the village roof tops and vow to myself that I'll stay forever, knowing of course that I won't, but wishing that I could.

And can you blame me? Strolling down my street to a village, that makes all of our visitors gasp and comment that they feel they've just stepped into a story.

We'll stop for a coffee, having of course, purchased a baguette.

And we'll look at each other and smile, we're back, sipping coffee, and doubtless later a glass of rosé at Café Gaby where it's hard working owner, Marc, will have served countless people since we were last there. We'll breath a sigh of contentment, our memories haven't deceived us, nothing has changed, all is as we remembered it, intoxicating and perfect.

If we're lucky, our favorite local artist, Gérard Isirdi, will be seated behind us. Doubtless splashing a new canvas with the talented strokes of his paint brush, capturing another beautiful moment in time.

Just as he did one day for us, now over ten years ago.

Then we'll meander up the street passing Isirdi's Gallery, here on the left with the grey shutters.

We'll while away the moments admiring the ancient, shuttered buildings and their clay tiled roof tops, glowing golden as they bask in the sun.

A myriad of temptation will tumble out onto the streets, most of which I'll want to explore as my hand is pulled to stop me!

And on a Friday, market day, we'll be thrilled that the same band, we've always listened to and loved, will still be there, filling the air with its lively Spanish melodies.

Tall plane trees will canopy the market stalls and we'll fill our baskets with fresh tomatoes, lettuce radishes, cheese and fruit.

And of course, I'll be tempted yet again, by something gorgeous that one can only buy in Provence.

Lunch will be on back on our terrace, admiring the view.

Our daily walks in Lourmarin will take us along leafy lanes where the trees bow across the road like hands clasped in expectation.

In May there will be poppies, dancing in the breeze and splashing a vibrant red across the fields.

And I'll marvel once more at the natural light illuminating the world in a way that it only seems able to do in Provence.

We'll dine most nights at home enjoying the bounty of the local region, with the doors wide open and our hearts overflowing.

Every so often we'll spoil ourselves at one of the local restaurants knowing we'll be warmly welcomed back, eating el fresco, wondering why we ever left.

And then a family will walk by and I'll remember where I need to be and why.

Emotions will stir, I guess you can't have it all but I'm so very blessed and forever grateful that I have so very much and two such special places I'm fortunate enough to call 'home'.

The post Carmel, California and Lourmarin, Provence, the places I call home appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

We departed Lourmarin just as winter had arrived, with Christmas round the corner. The trees were almost bare, only a few remnants of their golden autumn gown still clinging to the branches. Temperatures had fallen, especially when the Mistral blew her cruel, icy breath down the Rhône Valley. There were occasional early morning frosts and mists creeping across the ground at first light. But most days the skies were still cornflower blue, with bright, dazzling rays of sunlight illuminating the world with a clarity only found in Provence. Perfect conditions for the olive harvest.

It's barely been two weeks since we were there, and now, from so far away, it's hard to believe it's all just as we left it. The air perfumed with woodsmoke, and an air of expectancy swirling below the strings of twinkling lights. Below them, along the Lourmarin streets, carefully positioned baby sapins proudly displaying cheery crimson bows.

Brightly decorated shop fronts, our wonderful artist Isirdi's Gallery looking splendid.

Many strung with tiny sparkles.

A profusion of temptations enticingly displayed.

One of my favorite at this time of year, La Maison Franc, their beautiful lavender wands and boules a special treat for the Christmas tree.

Lourmarin's delightful new Boucherie was preparing to supply the village with an array of delicious, festive food!

The weekly markets still arriving, somewhat depleted except for food stalls, happy to help the locals to stock the local people's Christmas pantries.

Warm lazy days sipping rosé in the shade were a distant memory. But café terraces still bustled, their patrons swaddled in coats and scarves, huddled around steaming hot drinks.

Christmas markets were popping up each weekend, we visited this one in the pretty fishing town of Cassis.

Tethered boats bobbed in Cassis harbor where we enjoyed lunch on the quayside.

And in Aix-en-Provence, its famous Cours Mirabeau was lined with a white ribbon of festive stalls.

Provencal gifts from the region; lavender products, incredible carved chocolate sets,

Calissons, a local almond paste speciality.

Festive bow ties.

presents made of wood,

and Santons, the hand-painted terracotta scene figurines made to decorate Provencal Nativity Crèches.

The Christmas Traditions of Provence

The Santons

Santons were first created during the French Revolution by Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822), an artisan from Marseilles. Traditionally a Provencal crib scene had about 55 Santons, depicting not only religious characters but local figures from ordinary life. To this day the Santons are positioned around a traditional crib scene surrounded by small buildings from the village.

Santon fairs take place all over Provence and officially mark the beginning of the Christmas season. We admired the Santon nativity scene displayed inside the magnificent cathedral of Aix-en-Provence, Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur.

Le blé de la Sainte-Barbe

Christmas in Provence begins on December 4th, the day of Ste-Barbe. In the days before Christmas little bags of wheat are sold or handed out free at boulangeries. Ste Barbe is celebrated by planting this wheat in small pots. The belief is, that if the wheat grows straight the year ahead will be prosperous.

Traditionally families grow 3 pots of wheat to represent the Holy Trinity. These pots decorate the table on Christmas Eve for the Gros Souper. This is a meatless meal, often beginning with a garlic soup, followed by a fish dish and thirteen desserts. After the Christmas day lunchtime meal the wheat is placed in the crèche among the santons, laid there to symbolise the fields.

Les Treize Desserts~ the 13 desserts

Les Treize desserts is an ancient tradition and steeped in symbolism, thirteen representing the Last Supper with Jesus and the 12 Apostles.

Although it is now possible to buy a simplified, boxed version, traditionally the 13 desserts would have included dried and fresh fruit, two types of nougat, candied fruit and Fougasse, a flatbread made of olive oil and orange flower water. The custom is that the fougasse should be torn not sliced, to do otherwise is to cause financial ruin for the coming year! The desserts are often eaten after Midnight Mass and served together with vin cuit, a fortified wine. Everyone is meant to try a little of each dessert.

Provence and Lourmarin seem very far away from California. And since we left, winter has dusted our little village with a coat of snow. I've been there when it snows, when my fairy tale village seems even more magical, as it waits patiently for Christmas.

I hope you're waiting patiently, not too tied up in wrapping paper, tinsel and chaos!

Wishing you all a Happy Christmas wherever in the world you may be

and thank you for loyally following my ramblings!

The post Christmas in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

On Saturday we went back to the beautiful bastide town of Uzès. An hour and a half from Lourmarin, just west of Avignon, we often visit on a Saturday. We get up early to stop off on route at the Antique Market in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, a weekly event across the river from Avignon, to then hurry on to Uzès where on a Saturday Uzès plays host to arguably one of the finest markets in the region. This delightful duchy holds a special place in my heart. It's where we lived in 2012 and where the story of Shutters and Sunflowers began. It's also the stage for my World War II historical novel, The Sunflower Field, the true story of the Polish cryptologists who having cracked The Enigma Code in 1932, lived in hiding in Uzès, for two years during the war.

And within minutes of arriving back I was reminded of the inspiration for the title of my blog. The shutters adorning the windows of Uzès that so captivated me,

and the golden smiling faces of the sunflowers, which long after they've danced their annual repertoire in nearby fields, still fill the flower baskets in the market.

A market that was in full swing when we found our way there, shaded below its' leafy canopy in Uzès central square, Place-aux-Herbes.

Amongst the abundance of fresh produce was local purple garlic,

and colorful whicker baskets, greatly reduced in price as the summer season has begun to dwindle to a close.

And announcing the arrival of autumn, there was a wide variety of mushrooms, including a Provençal speciality, cèpes, only available for a few weeks at this time of year.

The market winds its way along the cobbled streets between the town's splendid golden arches.

And by lunchtime the restaurant tables are full, weary shoppers tempted by the plat du jours. Laughter and chatter fill the air and no-one seems to notice the market slowly slip away.

Leaving the bustle behind, it's an ideal time to explore the now deserted streets.

One quickly becomes immersed in the charming ambience of this truly special place. A timeless enchantment which never fades.

The worn steps of Rue rue Saint-Théodorit entice us down.

And finding our way back to Place-aux-Herbes, all swept and cleaned, it's hard to believe just moments earlier this was the hub of a busy, heaving market.

Crossing the square we wandered into a local favorite, the one shop I always have to return to, Les Pots d'Uzès

I wished I could buy some more, especially the very largest ones for my outdoor patio.

I had to content myself with just looking ......

As we made our way back through the streets we caught a glimpse of one of the treasures of Uzès, the Fenestrelle Tower, peeking its head above the roof tops.

Nearby a sunflower smiled in greeting outside one of the local artisan's shops.

We passed by more ancient, shuttered buildings,

and lingered for one last time in Place-aux-Herbes, not wanting to leave.

Standing wistfully outside the house where we lived (which I've featured in my novel)

we wandered back down the street and as always, I wondered disloyally, if maybe we should have bought in Uzès, it always beguiles me so....

Driving back, we promised ourselves to soon make a trip back to the magnificent walled city of Avignon.

And through the front windscreen, as we caught a glimpse of Le Pont Saint Benezet, we found ourselves humming the nursery tune we'd both learned in Primary school, 'Sur la Pont d'Avignon...'

That evening, back in Lourmarin, sitting outside our beloved Café Gaby, my doubts about where we should have our house in Provence, fade. I'll always adore Uzès and love every moment we spend there, but this is where we belong.....

Come and see for yourself!

Download  The PDF Travel Guide for Uzès my travel tips about Uzès

Rent Maison des Cerises ~our house in Provence, already taking bookings for 2022!

The post Uzès where Shutters and Sunflowers began appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

The post Returning somewhere special, Lourmarin, our village in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

I haven’t written a post for a while, feeling unsure during these difficult times about what people might want to read.

Springtime in Provence?

But then I’m not actually there, and like most people can’t even get there.....

Life on the ski slopes of Lake Tahoe?

Perhaps that would sound too idyllic? Living on the ski slopes at Lake Tahoe's ski resort, Northstar, especially now, has been very special. We've felt blessed to be surrounded by such breathtaking winter beauty, able to ski from our front door, but even here, life has been restricted and often lonely.....

Then I thought about comparing life under COVID in Britain, California and Provence? But despite the glimpses of light at the end of the tunnel, would people really want to read any more about COVID?

I started to question why I even write this blog, that perhaps my silence had driven my readers away?

And then I received two comments on posts I’d written several years ago. One about the WWII American Air base at Greenham Common in England (written in 2018) and the other about Changi Gaol in Singapore (written in (2015). Both very personal and both connected to World War II. A reminder that however challenging and for some tragic, this last year has been, we haven’t had to endure the horrific challenges of war ~ the tyranny of occupation, the terror of being bombed or despair of parting with our loved ones leaving to fighting a war no one ever wanted……

That these people had reached out to me also helped me realize why I write; connecting with others, that my ramblings get found and resonate. I often fret that my focus should be about sharing useful information, travel related or otherwise, when in fact the posts which receive the most love are often those about the journey of life, written from the heart. So forgive me, here are some seasonal, heart-felt perspectives about my three special places.

Provence in the spring

I've been in Provence in the spring many times and of course it’s beautiful!  Like many other places at this time of year the air smells fresh and crisp, the buds and leaves are bursting, Provence's abundant fruit trees kissed with blossom petals. These cherry blossoms bloom outside our front door, hence the name of our house ~ Maison des Cerises ~House of the Cherry Trees.

All across the region, throughout the sprawling vineyards, the vines' gnarly fists begin to show the promise of the coming season's abundance as the leaves of surrounding trees unfurl into a canopy of green.

Spring flowers splash cheer along the roadside heralding new life, brimming their radiance in the market stalls and shops. Lourmarin's delightful florist 'Une Fleur M'a Di' welcoming the season with a whimsical touch.

And in Provence's markets, bright yellow bouquets of Mimosa take center stage.

El-fresco diners flow onto the cobbled streets where below the clay tiled rooftops and shuttered windows the ambience of this ancient place is so beguiling.

The video art spectacle Carrières de Lumières resumes next month, April 3 2021, one of my favorite places to visit and take our visitors. This year it will be profiling the work of Cezanne and Kandinsky. Even though Carrières de Lumières' stunning Van Gogh production is  now being shown in other cities, including San Francisco, its' setting at Les Baux-de-Provence in an old bauxite quarry cave, nestled under the crumbling ramparts of a medieval Provencal village perché, is somehow more enticing!!

There’s been some changes in the 13 months since we've been in Lourmarin. An impressive new shop for our wonderful bakery ~ Boulangerie de Stéphane Riquier ~an even shorter stroll from our house! And next door Lourmarin has been blessed with the addition of a butcher, Boucherie de Lourmarin ~ Avenue du 8 mai 1945 Route d'Apt 84160 Lourmarin ~ thanks to the wonders of their social media posts I know I'm going to be a regular customer! I so hope later this year we can return to our enchanting Provencal village.

England in the spring

In early March the British Isles become resplendent with spring flowers and blossoms, stunning banks of primroses tumbling throughout the woodlands. My own Home thoughts from Abroad, so aptly written by Robert Browning, years ago, resonate deeply ~ “Oh to be in England now that Spring is here”

Fields of baby lambs.

Normally at this time of year pub gardens get busy, people happy to be able to enjoy a pint and lunch outside. Sadly, this year, during COVID, they'll have to wait, hopefully only until mid April.

And in spring, English gardens everywhere burst into life.

A tad cooler than Provence, but that same feeling of expectancy, with blossoms sprinkling a confetti of petals across the tree branches.

Lake Tahoe, California

When we first arrived in Lake Tahoe in mid-November, just the highest slopes of The Northstar Ski Resort, where we've been living, were dusted with snow.

And then the snow came and the resort sprung to life. Thanks to Northstar's efficiency and their COVID precautions, the resort has stayed open and we've felt safe enjoying skiing in this stunning place.

Those initial days of powder were soon followed by winter storms. The view from our window became a blanket of winter white.

Not without its challenges for those that needed to travel!

But making the magnificent views across the lake from the top of the mountain even more spectacular.

The nearby town of Truckee became carpeted with banks of thick cotton wool.

And we watched in delight and pride as our our 2 year-old granddaughter became competent with her tiny boots and skis for the first time ~ "More Grandpa! More!"

And then there's Lake Tahoe itself ..........

My three vey special places in the early spring. I hope you are reading this from somewhere you love as much, stay safe, things are getting better!

The post Spring in Provence, England and Lake Tahoe, California appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The COVID pandemic has consumed us all. My heart goes out to those that have lost loved ones and the debt owed to our health care workers can never be repaid. Globally the world has been tipped on its axis. As it continues to spin it sometimes feels that it will never stop, will life ever return to normal?

For us, amongst other things, we have been disappointed not to be able to travel to Lourmarin. We’ve kept in touch with friends we’ve made there and just recently I heard from Susan and Towny in New Hampshire who like us have a long enduring love affair with Lourmarin. It was wonderful to hear from them but also very humbling as reading Susan’s email I realized that however frustrating and financially challenging the effects of COVID might be, compared to the life changing tragedy they’ve been forced to deal with our problems pale into insignificance.

Two years ago, unrelated to COVID, Susan and Towny lost their beautiful, vivacious, twenty-six-year old daughter Alex to a devastating little-known illness called PANDAS.

Susan and Towny lived with Alex in Lourmarin in 2002 and during that time made lifelong friends. It is actually because of Susan that we met our friend Walter, whose help with the purchase and renovation of our house was invaluable.

Three years ago our families spent a wonderful evening together in Lourmarin. Our lovely daughter Kate was with us. Two bright, bubbly young women of a similar age found they had much in common, a mutual love of Provence being one of them. We still have our Kate but Alex is gone......

It is impossible to recover from such terrible loss but Susan and Towny are an incredible inspiration. Determined that other people don’t have to endure their suffering and pain they have bravely committed themselves to educating people about PANDAS which if detected and diagnosed can be treated. By establishing The Alex Manfull Memorial Fund, and attending medical conventions they are committed to telling her story and with the help of dear friends in Lourmarin have begun a project, À Table! to help spread awareness.

There’s is a story of deep sorrow but it is also a thought provoking story of courage and a reminder of the goodness of people. It's one I asked Susan if I could share, to help raise awareness about this ugly disease which so cruelly stole their only child away from them.

Several of Susan and Towny's friends from Lourmarin have joined with them in the À Table! project to help. I know Gérard and Christine Isirdi, Gérard did a commission  for my friend which we are in!

Madeleine Premmereur of Château Barbebelle I’ve not met but I’m hoping to do so. And Hervé Giustiniani, the owner of De la cuisine Au 20 in Lourmarin, I don’t know personally, yet, but I know his smiling face and his delightful shop.

So how are they helping the À Table! project and what exactly is it?

Susan and Towny are dedicated wine connoisseurs, they author a wonderful blog Provencewinezine and decided to use their knowledge and passion for wine via the À Table! project as one of their ways to raise awareness about PANDAS.

As Susan wrote “….. we got the idea of using bottles of wine to spread the word about the deadly role of strep in causing neuropsychiatric symptoms. Many people know that strep infections can seriously affect the heart, kidneys, skin, and joints (e.g., rheumatic fever, scarlet fever, and even necrotizing fasciitis) but they don’t know how it can lead to very serious inflammatory conditions in the basal ganglia part of the brain. The label on the wine bottle and an attached booklet would contain information about strep and PANDAS (and a related condition called PANS)”.

Gérard is a renowned painter whose atelier is on the main street in Lourmarin.

His iconic scenes of village life and the Luberon are admired across the continents.

Gérard has designed the wine label

Madeleine Premmereur (née Herbeau), is the 4th generation of her family to manage the 16th century Château Barbebelle, one of the oldest estates in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, located in Rognes, near Aix-en Provence.

Madeleine, here with Susan, has supplied the vintages

Hervé, pictured here with Towny, is selling the wine in Lourmarin

Susan wondered if somehow I might have found my way to Lourmarin and be able to interview their dear friends to write this article. Sadly, like Susan and Towny we have not been able to get there. It will however be my first blog post when I return but for now I hope I can help in this tiny way to let you all know about the incredible work they are doing.

COVID has currently prevented them, for now, from moving their project forward in the way they’d hoped. Travel to Lourmarin from USA is almost impossible but Hervé has the wine for sale at De La Cuisine Au 20 Wine and Épicerie in Lourmarin.

From July 31st 2020 the wine has also been for sale in Susan’s local wine merchant in Portsmouth, New Hampshire at the South Street and Vine Wine and Cheese Shop.

As part of their awareness campaign Susan and Towny are asking everyone to raise their glasses (of Alex's wine or their favorite beverage, even tea or sparkling water) to Alex and every other person diagnosed with PANDAS with the promise that they will spread the word about this horrible disorder.  Please take a photo of the toast and send it to Susan at: susan@provencewinezine.com. She will post them all on Instagram (@TheAlexManfullMemorialFund) on Alex's birthday, September 7.

I wish Susan and Towny all the luck in the world. This is written with so much love and respect for them and the special people that are helping them from the beguiling little village in the Luberon that connects us all so profoundly, our enchanting village of Lourmarin.

To purchase the wine contact Susan: susan@provencewinezine.com

Contact Information:

Château Barbebelle
Route D 543, 13840 Rognes, France
Tel: (33) 4 42 50 22 12 Email: contact@barbebelle.com

Gérard Isirdi
Atelier Isirdi, 4 rue Henri de Savornin 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 4 90 08 50 96 Email: isirdi@wanadoo.fr

De La Cuisine Au 20
20 Rue du Temple, 84160 Lourmarin, France
Tel : (33) 9 53 96 96 61 Email: contact@delacuisineau20.com

South Street and Vine
359 Marcy St, Portsmouth, NH 03801            Tel: (603) 430-2984 Email: robin@southstreetandvine.com

The post À Table! PANDAS ~remembering Alex appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

It’s May and the poppies are blooming in Provence. Their tiny black faces almost obscured by their bright red hats, delicate, vibrant, petals wafting in the breeze.

Last year I was in Lourmarin admiring them. This year I should have been too but then the world stopped and everything changed.

But I know they're smiling once again, amid the olive trees, in the fields and along the country road sides.

A dotted carpet of crimson hats will be splashed in front of the Lourmarin château.

There’s no red poppies in northern California, where I live, 30 miles east of the City by the Bay. But in this beautiful, scenic area, in both the gardens and on the rolling hills above my house there are a mass of wild flowers, including local poppies.

Californian poppies, the dazzling orange little cousins of the poppies from Provence. This poppy, the Golden Poppy, is native to California. It grows wildly in great abundance and in 1903 was made the official state flower.

I'm sad to not be in Lourmarin and can you blame me....

But I'm lucky to be somewhere also very lovely, it's not too bad a view where I live!

And as an English girl, who might well be confused, living in California but passionately in love with Provence, I couldn't write about poppies without explaining their huge significance back at home.

Growing up in England, where poppies  flourish later in the year, I’d always associated them with the end of summer not the start. But most of all I think of them on Poppy Day, in November, dedicated to the remembrance of all those that fell among the fields of northern France and Belgium in World War I.

And those poppies that fringed the battlefields at Ypres in 1915 became immortalized in the words of a Canadian Soldier, Major John Macrae

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below

****

And as an English girl, so connected to the USA and France, the story of the poppies is entwined with these three places I hold so dear. For we owe the origins of the poppy as a symbol of remembrance to an American woman, Moina Michael, who having read In Flanders fields campaigned tirelessly for the poppy to be adopted as a symbol of Remembrance in the USA. In September 1920 the National American Legion agreed and inspired by Moina’s idea, a French woman, Anna Guerin, expanded it to help all those in need amongst the allies of France in Europe.

A year later, on November 11th 1921, Anna sent some French women to London to sell their artificial red poppies on Remembrance Day. It became the emblem for The Royal British Legion who every since have used the funds from Poppy Day to help a multitude of charitable causes.

Wherever you might be reading this I hope you have some flowers to brighten your day. In these difficult days of worry, whether red or orange, regardless of their color or where they grow, a bunch of flowers will cheer your spirits. Something I'm wishing for you all, with a speedy end to all uncertainty, when we we can all move freely and safely as we did before. Stay safe and well my friends.

The post The story of the poppies, in Provence and elsewhere appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

These are unprecedented times. As I type those words, I cannot help but think of another unprecedented time when the world faced a different peril. I’ve often wondered if I’d been alive then, would I have had what it takes to be extraordinary.... just as those working in health care services all over the world are doing right now.

I have no medical skills to offer but maybe I can send a little cheer through words and photos taken at this time of year from the special places that I’m so privileged to say are part of my life.

From California

to England

and a tiny village where church bells tell the time.

Families were torn apart eighty years ago, their loved ones fighting a battle few could understand. Today the world is confronting a different menace, one that's also difficult to understand. One that separates us, people feel isolated and scared, unable to leave their homes, bewildered by this unseen enemy.

But we can still connect with each other; social media and conference video tools allow us to see each other’s smiles across the continents and they're free. Last night all across France church bells rang in a sign of unity. I was sent this from my lovely village of Lourmarin, where the bells I hear across the roof tops I see from my terrace (above) sung too, it was snowing, frozen tears of unity....

This morning heart was warmed listening to Australia's Couch Choir created from over 1000 videos from across the world.

"There's so many people feeling isolated at the moment … we can't be near each other, and Couch Choir is a solution to that." Astrid Jorgensen creator of Couch choir.

Inspiring ideas spread fast, even before I published this I was sent this link to a similar choir singing in Boston at the Berklee College of Music.

Many of us can still take a walk and feel fresh air on our faces. I'm so blessed with views like this, to be in a beautiful open space minutes from my own front door.

Take joy from the natural beauty that maybe you've never really appreciated before.

Everyone everywhere is asking the same question, when will it be safe for life to return to normal? I wish I knew. I wish I could wake up in the morning to a new day when none of this was happening. Everything looks the same but everything's changed, for now....

It's essential we all do our part, that we stop the virus spreading, washing our hands correctly, adhering to social distancing and quarantining if we become sick. However frustrating this might be if we don’t follow this advice someone might die, lots of someone’s.

Difficult times often bring out the best in people. Today I learned about a volunteer group #STUDENTSAGAINSTCORONA started by college students in England but now spreading across the world. Thank you to them and others; those who are shopping for neighbors, delivering them medications and essential supplies. Thank you to those who are still working trying to preserve important services, to those who have come out of retirement to support health care systems, and to those who have turned their skills to make things at home like much needed face masks. Maybe some of these people feel they're only making a tiny difference but together they're making a big one.

We have no one who can mobilize the English language and send it in to battle. Few leaders who clearly communicate, reassure and inspire us with hope for a brighter future. If we did, I’m sure we’d be told as I am telling you now that if each and every one of us does our part all will be well….. eventually and it will.

Stay safe, stay well, fight coronavirus. Hope still waits at the end of the rainbow.

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It's December and people everywhere are getting ready for Christmas. After weeks of blue skies and gentle warm days it’s raining where I live in California and temperatures have plummeted. The puddles are splattered with the last remnants of autumn and the mornings are frosty with low lying mists hanging over the hills. Pumpkins have been cast aside replaced with Christmas sparkle, draped across roof tops and porches sometimes quite dramatically, beckoning in the Festive season.

And I know, in Lourmarin preparations for Christmas, le Fête Noël  are also underway. I'm not going to be there but can imagine it, the bustle and excitement, the decorating, the cooking, shops bursting with enticement and my little street festooned with twinkling fairy lights.

Christmas markets

In the larger European cities wooden chalets straight from a German Christmas story are now peppered throughout the streets. Each weekend tiny villages play host to Christmas markets, near Lourmarin these Marchés de Noël  are held in local schools, town halls and  wineries. My favorite is in Aix-en-Provence where the Cours Mirabeau will have become lined with festive wooden chalets.

Provence Traditions

Calissons d'Aix

Calissons d'Aix are sweet treets made from an ancestral recipe; a mixture of finely ground almonds, melon de Provence and candied orange peel, on a wafer bed covered with a royal icing setting, délicieux!

Santons

A charming part of Christmas in Provence, Santons are hand-painted terracotta nativity scene figurines. They were first created during the French Revolution by an artisan from Marseilles, Jean-Louis Lagnel (1761-1822). A Provencal crib scene would traditionally have about 55 Santons, depicting different characters from the region.

The 13 deserts of Christmas

 The Provencal 13 desserts of Christmas are an age old custom eaten after Gros Souper, the equivalent of Christmas dinner, thought to have represented Jesus and the 12 apostles.

The 13 deserts normally include a Fougasse (an olive oil flatbread), a Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), a platter of fresh fruit, a fig stuffed with walnuts, dates and white nougat. Not all are home made and  different regions offer their own variations; but everywhere has the Bûche de Noël!

Shopping in Lourmarin

If I were in Lourmarin here are some of the shops I would be browsing for my Christmas gifts

La Maison FRANC  ~16 Rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin

What could be more special than a handmade gift interwoven with beautiful ribbon exuding the evocative fragrance of Provence, a Lavender wand (Coeur de Lavande) or Lavender boule for your tree ? La Maison Franc has some of the very finest and they ship all over the world.

KOT for linen clothing & gifts  ~ rue de la Juiverie, Lourmarin

Rose de Bagatelle  for clothing & gifts ~ 8 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Mizso for handmade jewelry ~ 1 rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Souleo de Provence for pottery ~ 14 rue Henri de Savornin, Lourmarin. Their Lourmarin shop opened this spring but was previously in the Lourmarin market.  Also available online from USA, albeit for a tad bit more!

A book gift about Provence

If like me you love all things French, treat yourself or your friends to a gift of these wonderful little books, 'One Sip at a Time' & 'Are we French Yet'. Written by fellow franophile Keith-Van-Sickle who lives near me in California, (read my review here) they are full of wit and charm and 'Are we French Yet' is also available in an audio edition. Keith is offering a free copy up until Wednesday 11th December 2019. Click here and you might get lucky!

What are the Festive customs and traditions where you live? Are you expecting a white Christmas? Maybe my fairy tale village will be sprinkled with snow completing the magic of this special time of year.

Happy Christmas wherever you are!

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A visit to Lourmarin would not be complete without at least one visit to a local market in Provence. Friday is market day in Lourmarin But from early morning until about 1pm you'll find a market in Provence, somewhere, every day:

Markets in Provence

Monday: Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris

Tuesday: Cucuron, Pertuis, Gordes, Lacoste, Coustellet, La Tour d'Aigues, St Saturnin les Apt, Lourmarin (evenings)

Wednesday: Mérindol, Cheval-Blanc, Salt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, St Remy-de-Provence, Le Thor, Nimes, Cassis

Thursday: Goult, Ménerbes, Rousillon, Pertuis, Lauris, L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Aix-en-Provence, La Motte d'Aigues,

Friday: Lourmarin, Lagnes,, Les Taillades, Bonnieux, Aix-en-Provence, Cassis, Cucuron evenings (July & August)

Saturday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue, Maubec, Vaugines, Mérindol, Apt, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, Uzès

Sunday: L'Isle sur la Sorgue antiques, Ansouis, Coustellet, Mormoiron, Aix-en-Provence, Aigues Mortes

Regional produce found in the markets in Provence

Sold by smiling friendly locals

Goats Cheese

and other cheeses

 the perfect accompaniment to.....

 a baguette!

Olives

Candied fruits

 Garlic

Gifts from the markets in Provence

All things Olive!

Hats and bags

 Beautiful local handcrafts

Oils and vinegars

Nougat ~ although this might not make it to your suitcase!

A shopping basket full of evocative, sensory pleasures to provoke fond memories when you’re far away.

 My favourite market schedule:

Saturday ~ Apt or Uzes (click here for a video tour!)

 Sunday ~ L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Monday ~ Cadenet

Tuesday ~ Gordes & Lourmarin evening produce market

Wednesday ~ St Remy-de-Provence

Thursday ~ Aix-en-Provence

Friday ~ Lourmarin

Next time, we'll visit the Sunday market at L'Isle sur la Sorgue!

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