We have driven through France, north to south and back, (about 1000km each way), more times than I can remember. As children, both our families took holidays driving through France, often headed for Spain. Slightly crammed between siblings, before cars were air-conditioned, we both had fathers who preferred not to take the auto-routes, so the days in the car were long, yet both of us have cherished memories and a seed was sown. With our own children, especially when we lived in England, we had many holidays driving to France. Today, even though our travels begin in California we always fly to London, to see family and friends and often we then drive to France. Now we keep a car in Lourmarin, we've driven back and forth several times, sometime with just one overnight stop but with so much more of France to explore we prefer to take more time. We could easily spend a few weeks just ambling our way through this beautiful country. And I'm often asked, what route do we take and how do we know where to stay?

I'd like to say that we just stop wherever it takes our fancy, but I'm a planner and would rather know that after a long day in the car we have somewhere to rest our head for the night, preferably with easy parking and a place to eat. My go to resource is the English site Sawdays, always reliable, where we've found anything from a château with a gourmet restaurant to an old mill eating family style with just the owners and sometimes with other guests. We've spent delightful evenings with like minded, interesting people from all over the world all with stories stemming from a shared love of France. If Sawdays doesn't have good options, Hotel Guru have a very good, wide range of recommendations. They use Booking.com as their reservation tool and as a stand alone site Booking.com is good too.

Haunted by childhood trips, lasting about 8 hours, on a cross channel ferry from Southampton to Cherbourg most of which I spent in the bathroom, I was thrilled when in 1994 the Channel Tunnel opened.

Sitting in our car, traveling by car/train, under the sea, rather than over it, is far more preferable and it only takes 30 minutes!

Routes  we've taken~ places to stay & visit

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ Two night stops Solutré-Pouilly (near Maçon) & Champagne

Day 1: First night in Solutré-Pouilly 8 km (5.0 mi) west of Mâcon ~  Journey time from Lourmarin: 3hours 40mins, 350km

Accommodation: La Courtille de Solutre Rte de la Roche, 71960 Solutré-Pouilly, France

A simple, family run, modernized former inn, nestled in the village square of Solutré, in the heart of the stunning Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, with an excellent restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 90-115 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

View from the hotel of the village square of Solutré

Wines from the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation

Visit nearby:

Roche de Solutré

Overlooking the village of Solutré-Pouilly, you can't miss this incredible limestone escarpment, Le Roche de Solutré. We had no idea this rare, geological prehistoric site was there. Occupied by humans for at least 55,000 years, it is also the cradle of the Pouilly-Fuissé wine appellation. It attracted media coverage in the 1980s when President François Mitterrand began making annual ritual ascents up the peak.

Day 2: Second night in the champagne region ~ Journey time, 4hours 15mins, 417km.

Accommodation Lots of great choices on Sawdays, the place we actually stayed has since closed but this area was a good location to stay in giving us time to visit other places on route and its distance to Calais the next day (3 hours, 300km) gave us a 3rd full day to explore.

Visit on route

Dijon: The beautiful medieval city of Dijon, is en-route, and just 1hour 30mins further north. Once the home of the Dukes of Burgundy and today famous for its mustard!

Provins 2hours 50mins 250km northwest of Dijon. The UNESCO heritage site of Provins involved a detour off the most direct route north to the Champagne region but it was well worth it. A jewel of the Champagne fairs, Provins is one of the most authentic and complete 11th, 12th and 13th century medieval towns of Europe.

The city is walled by towering ramparts. its' fortified gates are still intact and remain the entry to the city.

The medieval buildings are beautifully preserved dating back to when Provins was a trading hub and host to major, annual trade fairs.

The 12th century, hilltop César Tower is a prominent site, possible to climb up and explore the ramparts and extensive views across the area.

St Quiriace Collegiate Church, Provins

Provins is an unmissable place to visit in northern France.

Day 3: Champagne Area to Calais ~Journey time, 3hours 300km

Visit on route

The Somme

This was a small detour from the autoroute, one that we've always intended to make. It's World War I heritage is both tragic and humbling, I wrote about it here. It's a place we should all visit and reflect, with so much more to see, we will return.

Battlefields of the Somme

The World War I Museum at Albert

Lochnagar Crater The detonation at Lochnagar, by the village of La Boisselle, on July 1st 1916, signaled the beginning of the Battle of the Somme. The explosion created this enormous crater, approx 30 meters (98 ft) deep and 90 meters (295 ft) in diameter.

Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial ~ an incredible Canadian WWI memorial where it is still possible to walk in the original trenches.

Traveling south: Calais to Lourmarin ~ One night stop, Langres

Day 1: Night stop in Langres ~ Journey time from Calais: 5hours 20mins, 515km

Accommodation: Hotel Cheval Blanc 4 Rue de l'Estres. 52200 Langres France

Part of the Logis chain, this is a small, basic hotel, but clean and comfortable with a gourmet restaurant, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros  Dinner: 40-50 euros (plus wine) Langres is a great half-way location in the Haute-Marne between Calais and southern France.

Views of the Haute-Marne

Langres is a charming little town famous for being the home of Denis Diderot, father of the Encyclopedia. His statue takes pride of place in Langres' central square .

Day 2: Langres to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5hours 30mins, 545km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop Nitry, Chablis

Day 1: One night stop in Nitry ~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 5hours 18 mins, 545km

Accommodation: Auberge de la Beursaudière 9 Chemin de Ronde, 89310 Nitry, France.

Close to Chablis in Burgundy, this hotel is recommended by Sawdays  ~ a pretty, former priory and collection of farm buildings with wooden verandas topped with patterned Burgundian roof tiles. The simply furnished bedrooms are all decorated in the theme of a local trade; the writer, the laundress, the ploughman, the vintner, etc it’s charming and the staff are warm and friendly. The restaurant is very good and the breakfast excellent. There's a wonderful terrace in the summer, reservations essential.  Rooms per night: 80-120 euros Dinner 25- 40 euros (plus wine) Highly recommended.

The courtyard at Auberge de la Beursaudière

Day 2: Nitry to Calais ~ Journey time, 5hours, 511km

The vineyards of Chablis

Wine shop in Chablis

Driving south, Calais to Lourmarin ~ One stop Noyers-sur-Serein, Burgundy.

Day 1: One night stop in Noyers-sur-Serein, ~ Journey time from Calais: 5 hours 26 mins, 503 km

Accommodation: Le Prieuré 5, rue de la République, 89310 Noyers-sur-Serein, France.

This gorgeous, former priory sits on the edge of the picturesque village of Noyers-sur-Serein, one of Les beaux village de France. There are five spacious, ensuite bedrooms, decorated in a very eclectic style but beautifully equipped and comfortable. Rooms per night: 130-170 euros including an excellent breakfast. Although there is no restaurant, Le Prieuré's charming owners, Annick and Oliver speak English and are happy to help with restaurant reservations. The village is only a five minute stroll away. Highly recommended

Noyers-sur-Serein ~ allow yourself some time to explore this enchanting little town,

where time seems to have almost stood still.

Day 1: Visit on route

Beaune ~ One of the most splendid town's in Burgundy. Beaune beautifully showcases one of the architectural characteristics of this region, the multi-coloured polychrome roofs. Made of glazed, flat tiles they are carefully laid in colourful patterns. A symbol of prestige, their opulence reflected that of the owner of the building. Initially they covered many of the great 13th century cathedrals and then the princely residences of the 14th century, before becoming available to the rich urban bourgeoisie of the 15th century.

Hospices de Beaune: the wine-makers’ hospital

Beaune's most iconic building, and one of France's most prestigious historic monuments is Hôtel Dieu, or Hospices de Beaune. It was founded in 1443, by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin just as Beaune was coming out of the 100 years war, a period of unrest and plague that had decimated the countryside.

In 1457, Guillemette Levernier made the first gift of vineyards to the Hospices de Beaune, a tradition that was to continue for five centuries. Today, the wine estate is around 60 hectares, of which 50 are devoted to Pinot Noir and the rest to Chardonnay. Beaune and the Burgundy region are a truly beautiful region of France to spend time in.

Day 2: Noyers-sur-Serein to Lourmarin ~ Journey time, 5.5hours 555km

Traveling north: Lourmarin to Calais ~ One night stop in Matougues (south of Reims)

Day 1: Lourmarin to Matougues~ Journey time from Lourmarin: 7 hours 720 km

Accommodation:  Auberge Des Moissons 8 National Road, 51510 Matouges, France

Part of the Logis group, this is a modern, fairly basic hotel conveniently located just minutes from the A26 autoroute. The rooms are spacious and clean, family rooms are available. The on-site restaurant is very good, reservations essential. Rooms per night: 100-135 euros . Great breakfast 12 euros. Dinner 30- 47 euros (plus wine). A comfortable, easy night stop.

Visit on route:

Pérouges ~ One of Les beaux village de France, Pérouges is another delightful, medieval, walled town, 30km northeast of Lyon, in the Ain department. Perched on a small hill it overlooks the plain of the river Ain.

House of The Princes who lived here from 1365

Dole ~  this lovely town in Burgundy, 52km (43 minutes) south east of Dijon in Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, is best known for being the birth place of Louis Pasteur, considered to be the father of vaccinations and pasteurisation.

The house in Dole where Louis Pasteur was born, December 27 1822 now a museum.

The Commemorative garden by the Louis Pasteur House

Bust of Louis Pasteur

Day 2: Matougues to Calais ~ journey time 3hours 32okm

Driving south: Lourmarin to Calais via The Normandy Beaches and The Loire Valley ~ Two stops: Crépon, Normandy, Amboise, Loire

Day 1 & 2: Two nights in Crépon, Normandy ~  Journey time from Calais: 3hours 48 mins, 368km

Accommodation Ferme de la Rançonnière, Crépon, Normandy.

A charming 3 star hotel oozing with character and charm. Traditionally furnished, some rooms with four poster beds, several family rooms available. Excellent restaurant reservations advised. Rooms per night: 90-265 euros  Dinner 25- 50 euros (plus wine). Excellent breakfast 16 euros each. Highly recommended.

Visit nearby: The Normandy beaches

Visiting the Normandy beaches from England is not on a direct route to southern France. Many people would choose to take the ferry from England to Le Harve or Cherbourg, but as I said earlier, I prefer the 30 minute crossing under the sea on ‘Le Shuttle, despite the longer drive once in France. We stopped here for 2 nights but could have stayed several more. Normandy is picture postcard pretty and its’ history phenomenal. You can read here about the incredible World War II D-day sites we visited:

Remembering D.Day

The Normandy beaches: D.Day, Operation OverLord

Arromanches and the Normandy Memorials

There is so much to see, including the lovely town of Bayeaux, home of the Bayeaux Tapestry, the 70 meter long tapestry which depicts the Norman conquest of England in 1066.

Further along the coast is the iconic Mont St Michel

Day 3: Pocé-sur-Cisse near Amboise in The Loire Valley ~  Journey time from Crepon, Normandy: 3hours, 311km

Accommodation: Maison de Triboulet 9 Chem. de la Basse Vallerie, 37530 Pocé-sur-Cisse, France

This is a small, 2 bedroom property meticulously renovated, with every possible attention to detail by its charming owners Nathalie and Eric who could not have made us feel more welcome. Rooms per night: 80-120 euros. Dinner: By prior arrangement, Nathalie and Eric will happily cook dinner for you which they serve in their kitchen as if you were their personal guests. Alternatively they can recommend local restaurants. Breakfast is included and is delicious, with home baked croisssants, brioche and preserves. Highly recommended.

Bedroom at Maison de Triboulet

Breakfast at Maison de Triboulet

The hosts Nathalie and Eric

The Châteaux of the Loire

There is the whole of the Loire Valley to explore, its stunning chateau and countryside. You can read a little about it here we could have spent many nights exploring, we will return!

Château du Chaumont

Day 4: Amboise to Lourmarin 7 hours 20 mins 737km

We are always loathe to leave but know it is only au revoir. Do let me know where you have found to stay on your travels through la belle France!

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When the USA fell in love with rosé

It wasn’t that long ago that rosé wine was hard to find in USA. Initially it was often confused with white zinfandel, wine of a similar color but not similar in any other way. I can even remember rosé being dismissed as being a watered down red with half the alcohol content! But then, about ten years ago, Provençal rosé hit the American supermarket shelves and when sales exploded it sent the local vintners scampering to produce something to rival it. And small wonder that Provençal rosé has been such a success, for this subtle, pale pink shimmer in your glass, so crisp and refreshing seems to define what so many of us love about Provence. As it sparkles like sunshine, with every sip one is transported to be sitting at a bistro table below the shaded branches of gently swaying plane trees, cicadas chattering incessantly above as you ponder the biggest decision of the day, what are you going to order for lunch?

Léoube

I digress, what has this got to do with Léoube the wonderful rosé from a wine château near Bormes-Les-Mimosa in Provence? Well believe it or not the first time I tasted Léoube was not in Provence but in California. A dear friend found it at our favourite, local épicerie, Diablo Foods in Lafayette, 30 miles east of San Francisco near where we live, and we were smitten.

Daylesford

The second time I saw it was a year later, again not in Provence, but at a gorgeous organic farm shop, Daylesford, in The Cotswolds, England.

Courtyard at Daylesford

In fact, I remember it was the only wine I saw there.

Léoube wine for sale at Daylesford

Situated next to an organic farm, belonging to the Bamford family, in addition to the farm shop, Daylesford offers a collection of stunning home, gift, clothing and garden shops, a cookery school, several fabulous dining options and the Bamford Wellness Spa.

There are also several equally lovely deli style farm shops and cafés in London, click here for locations

A few weeks after my first visit to Daylesford we were having lunch at a nearby pub in the Cotswolds, The White Rabbit, in Kingham and once again Léoube featured predominantly on the menu. Intrigued we got chatting to the manager who explained, Daylesford owns the White Rabbit, Daylesford is owned by Lord and Lady Bamford who also own a château in Provence, volia Léoube!!

The bar at The Wild Rabbit pub

Organic farming, a JCB and a chateau in Provence

Their story goes something like this….. when the Bamfords, also owners of JCB (England’s equivalent to Caterpillar) bought a fairy tale château in Bormes-Les-Mimosa it came with a small vineyard.

They became friends with their neighbour, a local vintner, Jean-Jacques Ott. They dispatched some JCB’s, recruited Monsieur Ott and later his son, who helped them in the conversion of both the vineyards and the olive grove to organic production. It's an incredible success story!

In my opinion they have established one of the loveliest domaines in Provence. Under Lady Carole Bamford's expert care, just like their farm in England and Daylesford, the commitment to sustainability and nurturing the land shines.

Although rosé is the star of the show they also produce red, white and sparkling. They now export to more than thirty countries and are full of further aspirations.

The tasting room and shop at Château Léoube

The shop at Château Léoube has the same enticing ambience as Daylesford.

Shop at Daylesford

At both locations the understated, artistic displays reek of style and good taste.

The natural, 'feel good' look tugs at your soul and makes you ignore the price tag!

And let's not forget the opportunity to taste the wine!

Just down the road the story continues at The Léoube Café.

Café Léoube, Pellegrin Beach

The café and it's location on Pellegrin beach is yet another Daylesford style haven.

One that feels like you’ve arrived at a 5 star desert island.

Although we did think it was a bit much having to pay 11 euros to park the car when we had a reservation for lunch at the café.

The menu was delicious.

We chose the daurade ~ sea bass

The shop on the beach was a continuation of the same allure, brimming with temptation.

A beach version of  the ladies clothing shop at Daylesford.

The Daylesford ladies clothing shop.

Even the plates for sale at Café Léoube begged to be purchased.

Everything at Café Léoube and Pellegrin Beach is dedicated to relaxing with its laid back, feel good vibe.

We will be returning for sure; to Pellegrin Beach, Château Léoube and Daylesford of course!

Château Léoube

2387 Route de Lèoube 83230 Bormes-les-Mimosas

Café Léoube

Open from April - October for lunch and dinner reservations are essential.

Call +33 04 98 07 69 88 or book online here

Check out their summer program and the various events hosted here throughout the season.

Click here for directions to both the Château and Café at Pellegrin Beach.

Daylesford

Daylesford near Kingham Cotswolds GL56 0YG +44 (0)1608 731700

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We decided we'd like to explore a little more of the region beyond the Luberon and spend a few days on the Côte d'Azur. We were in search of a quiet, boutique hotel, one that offered good food where we could relax for a few days by a pool and feel a little indulged. With lots of places to chose from you're never completely sure if you've made a good selection until you arrive. Nestled on the cliffs above the sparkling Mediterranean, Hôtel La Villa La Duce, proved to be a gem!

About a three hour drive from Lourmarin we chose to drive across country instead of taking the autoroute. It was a scenic journey, through vast areas of sweeping vineyards into the beautiful countryside of the Var.

We stopped for lunch by the Mediterranean at the pretty beach town of Le Lavandou, just 13km west of our destination at Rayol-Canadol-sur-Mer and 30km west of the beaches of the Saint Tropez Peninsular.

Le Lavandou bustles with restaurants, shops and cafés, cheerily strung along the quay.

We wandered by the water until we found somewhere that seemed impossible to resist. Doubtless tempted by a display of one of our favourite rosés, Léoube, from nearby Bormes-Les-Mimosas. (There's a story to Léoube which I'll share next time.)

After lunch we wound our way a little further along the oleander fringed corniche. Mediterranean villas, smothered with bright purple and fushia bougainvillea clung to the hillside either side of us, painting a profusion of color along our pathway

Then we arrived at Hôtel La Villa La Duce, perched amongst the clay tiled roof tops with dazzling views from the terrace, of our beautifully appointed room, of the Mediterranean and Côte d'Azur.

Champagne and rosé were some of the offerings at cocktail hour, carefully positioned to show case the view.

As was the hotel's restaurant, Le Café l’Envol.....

The cuisine was a delicious work of art without being pretentious and it was reasonably priced.

View the menu here.

Breakfast was served on the upper terrace at Le Club Papillon with sweeping views across the glistening, blue water.

The breakfast buffet was a sumptuous feast, we certainly didn't need lunch!

After 2 days of  indulgence we decided to explore a little further and visited Gassin one of Les plus beau villages de France, a medieval village high above the beautiful Saint-Tropez Peninsular.

Jean-Luc Ducreux' incredible bronze and steel sculpture dangled by the village entrance.

Where 'Don Quixote' seemed to be guarding the secrets of this picturesque little spot.

And it was really very pretty.

A visit to one of Les beau villages never disappoints.

We stopped on the short drive back at the beach near Croix-Valmer.

Where we were enticed to stay for dinner with the sand between our toes.

Gambas et frites..... très délicieux!

We only had a few days in this little haven,

and it was hard to tear ourselves away.

Only open a few years, we've already booked to go back. If you'd like to visit Hôtel La Villa La Duce click here, it's cheaper to book direct!

Where do you like to stay on the Côte d'Azur?

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Eating out, or more to the point eating outside, is very much a part of restaurant life in France. There are lots of places to choose from, and we love finding new ones. Here are a few restaurants we've just discovered as well as some old favorites.

Uzès

Restaurant Ten

Restaurant Ten, in the middle of beautiful Uzès, is somewhere we've been returning to since it first opened several years ago. One of the most delightful things about this restaurant, apart from the food of course, is the owner, Kate Tucker. A bubbly, warm, English girl from Devon with a million dollar smile who make you feel like she's welcoming you to her home every time you arrive.

And I'm pretty sure that Kate is the reason that celebrity chef and writer Rick Stein recommends and speaks so highly of Restaurant Ten in his fabulous cookery book Secret France.

Cocktails at Ten

Kate just get's it right; the ambience the vibe, the service and the menu. Doubtless drawing on her experience at The River Café in London (where Jamie Oliver also learned a few tricks) together with her French husband and their fabulous chef Damien Rolain, they've created an unpretentious little jewel of a restaurant. Interesting, well priced, beautifully presented, delicious food which never fails to impress, quite fabulous!

Crispy trout and quinoa salad at Ten

Restaurant Ten

10 Pl. Dampmartin, 30700 Uzès  +33 (0)466 22 1093

Open Wednesday - Sunday 12.00 -14.00 and evenings from 19.30

Reservations are advisable ~ tell Kate I sent you!

Click here for menu and website

Petits Fracis Provençeaux at Restaurant Ten

Other favourites in Uzès

Bec-au-vin

Le Zanelli

Pizza Duchy

Villa Curti we haven't here yet but it's recommended by Kate from Ten & it's where she goes out to eat!

Saint-Remy-de-Provence

Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

We normally go to St-Rémy-de-Provence on a Wednesday, market day, and if we have visitors, after lunch we often go on to Les Baux de Provence to the incredible art show, Carrières des Lumières. We've eaten in several places in St Rémy but no one restaurant has really stood out. Then a few weeks ago we stumbled upon Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau, an old manor house and former school right in the middle of town where lunch is served on an expansive terrace.

The ambience was delightful and the staff cheerful and attentive. The overall concept at the restaurant of shared, family style plates was perfect, especially for lunch.

The building itself is an interesting property. The dining terrace restaurant is at the rear and there is a lovely courtyard at the front.

When you walk through the courtyard, before you reach the Terrace restaurant, you pass through a charming shop selling household goods, gifts and clothes.

On a busy day, should you have to wait for a table, you can watch the world go by out on the street from the comfort one of the restaurant's arm chairs and order a cocktail until your table's ready!.

Click for more information on Bistrot Les Pieds dans L'Eau

22 boulevard Victor Hugo , Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
+33 04 90 90 74 49

For restaurant ideas & information about St Rémy visit my friend Keith Van Sickle's website here. I'd highly recommend his guide book, 'An Insiders Guide to Provence' which you can purchase from this link.

Aix-en-Provence

Café Hôtel de Caumont

'Café' in France can mean many things, a place just for a coffee and lights snacks, somewhere serving casual meals, or an elegant restaurant such as the café at Hotel de Caumont, a beautiful art museum in the center of Aix-en-Provence. The dining room is exquisite, and when the weather allows the Terrace is a wonderful setting for breakfast, lunch or afternoon drinks.

My salade crevette was delicious and the desert trolley is outstanding!

Café Hotel de Caumont is open daily from 10.00 -19.00. Unfortunately it is not possible to make a reservation. Check their website for unusual hours

Click here for Café Hôtel de Caumont website

Hôtel de Caumont a historic property and center for the arts

And of course Hôtel de Caumont is not all about the food, it's primarily a wonderful art museum boasting a vibrant history.

Hôtel de Caumont was built in 1715 by the President of the Court of Auditors in Aix-en-Provence, François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes, in the desirable Mazarin quarter of the city.

In 1758 it was purchased by François Bruny de la Tour-d'Aigues, the richest ship-owner, merchant and banker in Marseilles who named it Hôtel de Bruny. The property was inherited by Bruny's son who died shortly afterwards and so in 1796 it passed to his sister, Pauline. This resulted in a further name change to Hôtel de Caumont, after Pauline's husband the Marquis de Caumont.

Entrance to Hôtel de Caumont, Aix-en-Provence

During the late nineteenth century the property fell into decline. By 1939, it had been divided into apartments run by Resistance member Hélène Ardevol (1892-1976), who during WWII bravely sheltered other Resistance members in the apartments. Its' last private owner was General Isenbart who completed extensive restorations before he sold it to the city of Aix-en-Provence in 1964 when it became the Darius Milhaud National Conservatoire of Music and Dance.

Hôtel de Caumont today

In 2010 Hôtel de Caumont was sold to Culturespaces (who run Carrières des Lumières and other fabulous exhibitions throughout France) and they restored it to its former glory. It was reopened on 15 April 2015, and now hosts two temporary exhibitions annually. A film on Cézanne is shown every day, and a variety of concerts, musical performances and lectures are scheduled. Currently, until September 18 2022 the work of Raoul Dufy is on display.

The gardens are beautiful and well worth a visit.

Tickets to the museum can be bought online, click here

Hôtel de Caumont  3 Rue Joseph Cabassol, 13100 Aix-en-Provence  +33 04 42 20 70 01

Click here for website of Hôtel de Caumont

Le Four Sous le Platane

How often do I hear from perplexed overseas guests 'We're going to a Pizza Restaurant  in Provence, we're not in Italy?'

We may not be in Italy (although it's not far away) but the French certainly love, and know how to make great pizzas normally in wood fired ovens, feu de bois. The terrace at Le Four Sous le Platane is one of our favorites.

And if we can, we try to grab a spot by the fountain from where the restaurant get's it's name. Scrumptious pizzas served as huge wedges with a green salad and glass of wine, yum!

Click for more on: Le Four Sous le Platane

Lourmarin

There's no where new to recommend in Lourmarin and sadly a few places we thought were great have changed owners, not for the best ~ Le Moulin in Lourmarin and Petit Resto in Vaugine.

But we still love:

Louche au Beurre ~ the best steak frites!

Pizza Nonni ~our favorite for Pizza

Gina's Café ~ delicious homemade food, great for lunch

Café Gaby ~ the place for people watching in the very heart of the village, be it for coffee, an apéro or a casual meal!

La Maison Café ~ Great cocktails and small sharing boards, we love coming here after the Friday market  or for an evening drink.

If you'd like more information, download for free:

A PDF Travel Guide for Lourmarin

A PDF Travel Guide for Uzès

I'd love to know any restaurants you recommend in Provence!

The post Restaurants we love in Uzès, Aix-en-Provence & St-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

The Floating Harbours at Arromanches

There were many factors contributing to the success of D-Day. Strategic planning, deception and the successful outcome of some of the initial targets was critical, such as Pegasus Bridge, and Point du Hoc. But the major challenge of landing at Normandy was that it had no harbor. The beaches were suitable for landing heavy armor and it was within range of Allied air cover. Once liberated, the Normandy port of Cherbourg would provide vital access for further supplies but there was no where to dock ships and unload vehicles and tanks.

With remarkable intuition, Churchill had discussed this issue back in May 30th 1942, determining that if there was no port, one would have to be built. Huge mulberries comprising of floating roadways and pier heads which would go up and down with the tide were constructed in England, towed across the Channel and assembled off the Normandy coast. Misinformation spread by the Allies helped to ensure that the enemy were expecting an invasion at Calais, not Normandy and Arromanches-les-Bains was chosen to set up Churchill's incredible floating harbor.

Churchill's floating harbor is still visible at the picturesque little town of Arromanches-les-Bains.

Despite the British resources being at breaking point, they completed the work within 9 months. Arromanches was liberated by nightfall on June 6th and the first ships scuttled the next day. In order to avoid rough seas, huge hollow concrete blocks and old hulks were sunk to form a breakwater, by June 8th the first of these Phoenix Caissons had been submerged and on June 14th the first cargoes were unloaded.

Photograph of The Mulberry Harbours at The Arromanches 360 Cinema

The port at Arromanches was totally operational by the beginning of July, so later that month when Montgomery launched his large-scale offensive against Caen, up to 18,000 tonnes of goods were unloaded daily. An incredible engineering feat, this newly created port was the key to victory in Europe.

The remains of the Mulberry Harbours are still on the beach at Arromanches today.

Several dozen Phoenix Caissons continue to provide a calm and sheltered stretch of water.

 D-Day 75 Garden

High on the cliff over looking overlooking Arromanches and the Mulberry Harbors is this new garden memorial. It was designed to pay tribute to the D-Day veterans on the 75th anniversary of D-Day.

The statue depicts 97 year-old Bill Pendell MD looking back at himself as a 22 year-old landing on the beaches 75 years earlier.

The garden was first exhibited in 2019 at the Royal Hospital Chelsea, London, during The Chelsea Flower Show. It was gifted to the mayor of Arromanches-les-Bains by Field Marshall Montgomery's grand-children to remain as lasting legacy to D-Day.

Arromanches 360 : Circular cinema

The fascinating 360 degree cinema which brings the D-Day story to life is perched just below the D-Day 75 garden. It is well worth a visit. Tickets can be bought online, click here for details

Arromanches Museum

In the town itself, is the Arromanches Museum, also should not be missed. Click here for details

The Normandy Memorials

Visiting The Normandy Memorials like all war memorials and cemeteries is very emotional. The sheer scale of human sacrifice is intensely humbling. It's a debt that can never be repaid.

British Memorial at Normandy

It is hard to believe that until 2019 there was no official British Memorial at Normandy. Situated near the village of Ver-sur-Mer it is managed by the Common Wealth War Graves Foundation.  It was unveiled by The Prince of Wales, on 6 June 2021, the 77th anniversary of D-Day.

The pathway leading to the main monument is flanked with commemorative pillars that tell the Normandy story.

THE BEACHES AND THE BRIDGEHEAD 6 June -15 June 1944

STRUGGLING TO ADVANCE 16 June -30 June 1944

BATTLE FOR CAEN 1 July- 15 July 1944

This incredible story continues as the path way continues towards the main monument

THE BREAK-OUT BEGINS 30 July-15 August 1944

VICTORY IN NORMANDY 16 August-31 August 1944

And then you arrive at the monument's center.

On the main walls words of key World War II leaders have been chosen for each face. On the front, motivational encouragement from Field Marshal Bernard Law Montgomery's before he led his soldiers into battle:

“To us is given the honor of striking a blow for freedom which will live in history And in the better days that lie ahead men will speak with pride of our doings” Field Marshal B.L. Montgomery

On the opposite side, running up from the beach is a statue of those soldiers.

They are facing the other side of the monument, engraved with Churchill's famous 'We shall fight on the beaches' speech alongside King George VI's inspiring D-Day broadcast:

“Four years ago our nation and empire stood alone against an overwhelming enemy with our backs to the wall tested as never before in our history once more the supreme test has to be faced this time the challenge is not to fight to survive but to win the final victory for the good of all and for a world in which goodness and honor may be the foundation of the life in every land” King George VI June 6 1944

There is also the support offered by Charles de Gaulle from London, aimed specifically at the French:

"The supreme battle has begun . An immense force of attack or to us of assistance has begun to be deployed from the shores of old England. France submerged for four years, but by no means reduced or defeated stands ready to participate. From behind the heavy cloud of our blood and our tears the sun of our grandeur is starting to reappear.”  Charles de Gaulle June 6 1944

And then there are the names. Thousands of brave British soldiers who lost their lives, for all of us, on the beaches of Normandy............

Harry Billinge

One of the soldiers who landed on Gold Beach all those years ago, was a young 17 year-old soldier, Harry Billinge. Harry survived while all around him his friends fell. He has never forgotten them and throughout his life Harry strived continually to champion the building of this memorial. He was able to be here when it was opened and only passed away a few weeks before my own visit. Much loved by all who knew him and a hero of Normandy you can read his heartfelt tribute here.

Like all the Normandy memorials, it is free to visit this thought provoking, astounding place, sat above the beach known as 'Gold Beach' on D-day. Click here for more information

The Canadian Memorial

The Canadian War Cemetery, is situated about 11km east of the British Memorial, closer to Caen, at Bény-sur-Mer.

At this beautiful, tranquil spot we remember Canadian soldiers from the ‘Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada House’, now known simply as Canada House.

The Canadians landed at 'Juno Beach'.

The 2,049 Canadians who lie here were killed either on that beach or during the subsequent month-long Battle of Caen, or were executed while prisoners of war.

This immaculately kept memorial with its beautiful plants and shrubs is one of two Commonwealth burial grounds also maintained by the The Commonwealth War Graves Commission devoted to Canadians. Click here for more information

The second memorial can be found at the Juno Beach Centre and memorial park near Courseulles-sur-Mer. The centre runs its own guided tours of the museum and the beach, and the German beach defences there can be visited underground (April to October) Click here to learn more

The American Normandy Memorial and Cemetery

The American Normandy Memorial is at Colleville-sur-Mer. If you were driving along the coast you'd probably visit the Canadian Memorial first (45km to the east of the American) then the British (27km east) before continuing to the American. Situated above Utah Beach where the Americans landed there is an informative museum which tells the American's D-Day story. The memorial is run by the American Battle Monuments Commission

The entrance to the memorial gardens is stunning.

Like the other memorials, the American memorial looks down 'Omaha Beach' one of the D-Day beaches where the Americans Landed, 'Utah Beach' being the other.

The thousands of white crosses are a stark reminder of the tragic loss of life. Like their British and Canadian allies these young American boys landed in Normandy with no thought of personal gain but to fight for the freedom of the world. The fighting on Omaha beach on D-Day was one of the the bloodiest with over 3000 casualties.

The memorial pays tribute to those soldiers. Click here for more information about visiting this site.

Ultimately the Allies were successful, the careful planning, deception and strategy meant that three months after D-Day, Normandy was captured, it marked the beginning of the end. Yet the loss of life which the memorials attest to, was horrendous.

There are many other sites to visit at Normandy which remember what happened there on D-Day.  Click here to learn more and plan your visit.

words of General Bradley spoken about the landings, which I read at the American memorial, will remain with me and seem an appropriate way to end this post:

"The battle belonged that morning to the thin, wet line of khaki that dragged itself ashore on the channel coast of France" 

General Omar Bradley US First Army Commander June 6 1944

A line of khaki we should never forget.....

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"Life is what happens when you're busy doing other things." Words of wisdom I've often heard from a dear friend, for indeed sometimes life does throw you off course and you find yourself in unexpected circumstances. Such was our story when we returned from Lourmarin to California last December when unexpected knee surgery meant that the biggest decision of my day became whether I should attempt to stand. But nothing lasts forever, time heals and despite the uncertainty of whether I'd be able to travel, just a few weeks ago we were outside the door to our little house. It felt a million miles away from our 'other life' but we were back.

As we strolled down our street into the village the next morning everything was just as we'd left it. When we're not there, Lourmarin, and our life there, really does feel 'a million miles away'. It takes on a dream like quality and after a while I find myself questioning, is it really as special as my reminiscences? The fact that on our return it actually is, always brings me such joy, why do I persistently doubt myself?

Sipping coffee outside Café Gaby, watching the world stroll by, our morning baguette just purchased, it felt as if we'd never been away.

A few days before Easter, when visitors would be returning, the village was ready. Restaurant tables and chairs were neatly arranged and fresh flowers carefully placed. The shops were newly stocked with temptations, their enticing displays spilling out onto the streets.

On Friday market day the village began to bustle.

At this time of year local asparagus and strawberries dominate the grocery stalls, deliciously sweet with their promise of summer.

The band was back in their regular spot filling the air with a their melodious sound, contributing to the festive atmosphere.

And within days we were returning to the places we love.

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ~Sunday market day

The Antique Fair at L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the Antique Capital of Provence with its plethora of antique shops and galleries. Each Sunday, alongside a traditional Provencal market, there is an antique market. In addition, twice a year, a spectacular Antiques Fair settles itself within this delightful little town. We wandered from stall to stall hoping to discover an irresistible temptation!

Tintin

This year, amongst all the antique treasures sat a Tintin display. Who doesn't remember this courageous Belgian reporter and his dog Snowy? Created by Georges Remi, a Belgian cartoonist, who wrote under the pen name Hergé, the adventures of Tintin first appeared in 1929 in Le Petit Vingtième. It became one of the most popular European comic stores of the 20th century, published in more than 70 languages with sales over over 70 million and adapted for radio, television and film. If anyone wanted a souvenir of their childhood hero, here it was!

Château la Coste

La Terrasse at Château la Coste

Sat at a brightly coloured bistro table, under the trellis at Château la Coste's La Terrasse restaurant, listening to the soft chuckle of the fountain and the charming lilting tones of excited French chatter, is one of favourite lunchtime spots.

Château La Coste is a stunning wine domain 14km from Aix-en-Provence. It showcases not only fine wine but food, (La Terrasse being just one of of its five restaurants) art, architecture and well-being.

THE ART AND ARCHITECTURE WALK

Art is a particular feature at Château La Coste. The Art and Architecture Walk is a two hour stroll between the olive groves and vines, where one meanders through the woods stopping to admire the incredible pieces of modern art which pepper the walk. I wasn't quite up for a walk that long but I'm hoping to do is soon.

Open March 1st – November 1st Everyday 10 am – 7 pm
November 2 – February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Dominating the art collection is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue 'The Crouching Spider'. The spider hovers just above the glistening water by the Art Center, its' twisting, muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the surrounding vines

This year even the trees beside the restaurants reflect the artistic vibe, adorned with golden bauble necklaces

And let's not forget the wine!

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00. Learn more here.

At the end of the day, our terrace seems to be the perfect place to enjoy a local vintage, admiring our view as slowly the sky changes color and nightfall settles itself upon the village.

And so Lourmarin is no longer a million miles away. As we settle back into our life in Provence it's now our other life that begins to flicker, rippling like reflections on the water until we return.

This time we're here for a while, battling the detritus of Brexit we have long stay visas. We have so much to look forward to, most of all just 'being' in this special place, 'busy' with the 'business of living', living in Provence. September will come quickly, and Maison des Cerises will be then be available (as it is for a short while in July & August) should you want to sample this enchanting little corner of France.

A bientôt!

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Artists have always been drawn to Provence, inspired by its' striking beauty and the brilliance of its natural light which so illuminates this stunning part of France. For me, the artist who spectacularly showcases the radiance of the region, is Paul Cézanne. This year, Carrières des Lumières paid tribute to Cézanne. Its title says it all, “Cezanne Le Maître de la Provence”. The performance is an emotional encapsulation of the very essence of Provence and all that I love about it.

Carrières des Lumières: the art spectacle in a quarry

I've been fortunate to visit Carrières des Lumières almost every year since it opened in 2012. If you have not yet experienced its wonder, Carrières des Lumières (literally translated 'Caves of Light') is a musical, art extravaganza where the works of the Masters are splashed across the towering walls of a former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer.

The magic of Carrières des Lumières has now been transported across the globe in its dazzling Van Gogh production, Van Gogh La Nuit étoilée. But it began here, in Provence.

Carrières des Lumières is a short drive from St Rémy-de-Provence through a twisting, boulder strewn hillside between the pine trees where suddenly the magnificent ruins of a medieval château come into view. Hugging precariously to the craggy, limestone escarpment, it’s almost possible to hear the sounds of distant gunfire being fired from the ramparts over the perched village of Les Baux-de-Provence which tumbles down the hill below.

Carrières de Lumières is just a few hairpin turns further. Once inside the quarry's vast, cavernous space, one is immediately entranced. Invisible paintbrushes sweep more than 2000 digital images of artistic genius across the 7000 square meters of the quarry’s walls, floors and ceiling. And this year it is Cézanne’s brush strokes that hold the audience spellbound.

Vassily Kandinsky

The spectacle was accompanied by the work of Vassily Kandinsky (1866-1944).

Known as the founder of abstract art, Kandinsky was greatly influenced by Cézanne.

Born in Moscow, Kandinsky was also a poet and art theorist. In 1900 he settled in Munich studying painting and traveling across Europe with his partner Gabriele Münter. After meeting Cézanne, Monet and Matisse, Kandinsky's neo-impressionist art became replaced with landscapes. Subsequently he became interested in abstract art and his work constantly challenged conventional esthetical norms.

Forced to return to Moscow in 1914, Kandinsky witnessed the Russian revolution finally leaving Russia for good in 1921 with his wife Nina, to join the faculty of the Bauhaus in Weimer, Germany.

In 1933 Kandinsky fled Nazi Germany eventually settling in Neuilly-sur-Seine, west of Paris, where he spent the rest of his life. Here he became influenced by local surrealist painters. His palette of colours softened and small creatures and cellular shapes appeared in his work.

Paul Cézanne

Paul Cézanne was born in Aix-en-Provence in 1839. His father had grand ambitions for him. Having risen from humble beginnings as a hat maker, he'd become the owner of a bank where he expected his son to join him. He sent Paul to boarding school (1852-1858) where Paul was influenced by the future writer Emile Zola, forming a life-long friendship with him. In 1837 Paul joined the drawing academy in Aix and to the great disappointment of his father he abandoned his law degree and moved to Paris. Spending time with Zola he studied at the Académie Charles Suisse but traveled frequently back to Provence.

Cézanne was a prolific painter creating multiple versions of his work.

He produced numerous still lives, restoring the nobility of what at the time was regarded as a minor genre.

"With an apple I will amaze Paris" he is said to have exclaimed.

In 1866 Cézanne began a series of paintings of his Uncle. He used a technique where he applied thick layers of paint to model the face and modulate the color. It marked a turning point in his career. This unconventional style was rejected by the Salon in Paris who mockingly declared his portraits were painted 'not only with a knife, but rather with a pistol'.

In 1869 Cézanne met his mistress Hortense Fiquet and began working along side his friend, Camille Piassarro. Cézanne refined his technique painting the outdoors, capturing the beauty of forests, gardens, ponds, bathers and outdoor picnics.

Until the end of his life Cézanne painted the bathers in multiple settings, blending the human form into the landscape, concentrating his efforts on the body as a whole using them to structure space.

In 1874 Cézanne participated in his first impressionist exhibition.

In 1883 he met Monet and Renoir but they, like many others in their world failed to recognise his genius. In 1883 Cézanne married Hortense with whom he’d had a son in 1872. In 1888 Cézanne returned from Provence to Paris. In 1895 the art dealer Vollard exhibited 150 of Cézanne 's works including his oil painting the card players. The exhibition was a resounding success.

In 1901 Cézanne established his workshop on Lauves Hill in Aix-en-Provence which overlooked Mt Sainte-Victoire.

From 1902 until he died in 1906, Cézanne painted Mt Sainte-Victoire many times.

Like much of his work he painted it from several viewpoints,

studying the effect of light on his subjects.

Cézanne’s later works were predominantly of his native Provence where he found serenity painting scenes of every-day life, colourful houses, the local people, and landscapes. These landscapes illustrate how he regarded Provence, as the essence of nature.

These pieces offer a glimpse into Cézanne's inner struggles, the independence of his style and his unique relationship with nature.

Today Cézanne is regarded as the pioneer of modernity. His particular use of forms and color set him apart from the impressionists which later influenced later early 20th century avant guarde-artists.

Cézanne continued to exhibit his works until 1906, the year he died.

Paul Cézanne, le Mâitre de Provence.

Visiting Carrières de Lumières

Location: 800m from the enchanting perched village of Les Baux de Provence
Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence
Tel: +33 4 90 54 37     Email: message@carrieres-lumieres.com
By road: Motorway A7 (exit Avignon), A9 (Nimes) and A54 (Baux-de-Provence) 10 minutes from St Remy-de-Provence, see the map below
Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer months) 7 days a week from March – January Check website for details, re-opening March 2022
Admission: 14.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. Booking online advance is recommended

Tips for visiting Les Baux & Carrières de Lumières
Combine the entrance ticket with entrance to the Chateau ruins of Les Baux for a fascinating self-guided audio tour transporting you back to the time of knights and swash buckling heroes.

Don’t miss the video film of a helicopter ride over Provence, shown in the small chapel near the exit.

Eat elsewhere, in nearby St Remy-de-Provence, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Maussane-les-Alpilles or Arles, the Les Baux dining choices are disappointing.

If you have time, visit one of the many olive mills and wine domains in Valley Le Crau and the Roman road Via Aurelia below Les Baux on your departure.

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We continued our exploration of the Aveyron, weaving our way through the lush countryside with its deep red earth. We stopped off in more of the region's story book villages, (all one of 'Les Plus Beau Villages de France' ) where we unravelled a little more of the remarkable history of this lovely part of France. An hours drive north of our hotel, Château de Labro, we visited the medieval village of Conques and gazed in wonder at the gold relic of Saint Foy. The following day, traveling south back towards Montpellier, we found ourselves surrounded by the hills and gorges of the Tarn in Le Parc naturel régional des Grands Causses, a stunning UNESCO parkland. Here we sampled it's famous  cheese, made in the park's nearby caves. Our final stop was a step back in time where we learnt the fascinating story of the Orders of The Knights Templars and Knights Hospitaller.

Salles La Source

Salles La Source is a picturesque village nestled in the foothills of the Causse Comtal. It clings to the cliff on over three stories winding its way up to meet a rolling plateau up on the higher elevations.

The Cascade waterfall is its famous landmark, uniquely situated in the center of the village.

Conques

Conques is a simple, but breathtaking monastic village which tumbles over the edge of a wild gorge by the River Dourdou. As you wander its tiny streets it feels as if you've stepped into a fairy tale.

Narrow passageways wind their way through the village,

and steep cobbled steps lead you down toward the villages's focal point, The Abbey of Saint Foy.

The Abbey of Sainte Foy, visible from every vista, is on one of the pilgrimage routes to Saint-Jacques- de-Compostelle, a Catholic pilgrimage to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Spain, the alleged burial site of the Apostle St James.

The hushed cloisters of The Abbey's unadorned interior mystically adds to its magnificence.

In the adjoining Abbey Chapter building rests 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', a masterpiece relic statuette. The dedication of relics was commonplace in the Middle Ages but this one is particularly stunning, well worth the small admission charge to view it.

Only 85 cm high, 'The Majesty of Saint Foy', is made of yew, covered with gold, gilded silver, enamel and set with gems. It enshrines the skull of Saint Foy, a twelve year old, Catholic martyr who was tortured for refusing to renounce his faith. Legend has it that in 995 a miracle occurred when a blind pilgrim prayed to Saint Foy and had his sight restored. Pilgrims subsequently flocked to visit the relic, which, in the 12th century led to the rebuilding of the original abbey. This was later replaced by the great romanesque abbey we see today. Every year, on the Sunday following October 6 (feast of Saint Foy), The Majesty of Saint Foy', is transferred from its exhibition place, next to the abbey  and placed inside the abbey itself.

Timber framed buildings line the small square outside the Abbey hanging from the street above it.

Conques was perhaps the most impressive of all 'les plus beau villages' we visited in the Aveyron, an impression perhaps helped by the delicious steak frites we enjoyed in the warm sunshine below the Abbey's towering face.

Brousse le Château

Dating back to the 13th century this veritable fortress, like others of its kind, was built to protect its occupants from local invasions and during The Hundred Years War, from 1337, from the English!

The keep and towers of the ramparts which remain in good condition, are fine examples of late fifteenth century architecture.

We wandered the surrounding streets, seemingly deserted despite the evidence that people still lived there.

The village shop was a wonderfully preserved example of a timber framed, medieval building.

Roquefort-sur-Soulzon

Situated in the Grands Causses Regional Natural Park, at the foot of the Combalou mountain, are the caves used to ripen the cheese, Roquefort Société.

The caves were created over a million years ago after the mountain collapsed. Cracks, known as fleurines were left in these caves creating a natural thermal regulation. The caves were first used in the Middle ages, restored in the 17th century and then enlarged by the Roquefort Société, a brand created in 1842 which brought together fifteen local merchants and refiners.

Roquefort is made from the unpasteurized milk of local Lacaune Ewes between January and July. Reportedly, this creamy, blue veined cheese was discovered when a young shepherd boy left his cheese in one of the caves by mistake; when he remembered and came to collect it he found far from being ruined, the cheese had improved, the natural conditions of the caves had enhanced its taste. Today micro-organisms found in penicillium roqueforti are added to the milk before the cheese is formed. Roquefort Société is the only cheese maker that produces all its penicillium on site.

The caves are 11 stories high with fleurines on every level.

The cheese is ripened in the stone cellars which can holding up to 300, 000 loaves of cheese and as many as 1, 400, 000 in an entire season. The cheese loaves are placed by hand on the salted wooden shelves, the air being constantly renewed by the natural fleurines.

It is here that the penicillium roqueforti develops. The salt melts and is diffused and the cheese becomes creamy. Taking between 14-25 days, the cellar master plays a key role in the process.

All the attributes of this unique environment, the stone, the wood and wind from the fleurines, play an essential role in making the distinctive cheese we know today.

Roquefort Société World War II heros

In 1942, the managing directors of the Roquefort Société, Léon Freychet and Jean Bosc, together with some others opened a 'youth hostel' in nearby Tendigues to hide people, weapons and supplies for the Resistance.

When the Village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon was invaded on January 1st 1944, Bosc and Freychet escaped. Freychet was later captured and sent to Buchenwald Concentration Camp. He survived, and on his return from Buchenwald was instrumental in creating the company's worker's committee, a research laboratory and a training center for young shepherds.

La Couvertoirade in Larzac, the county of the Templars

La Couvertoirade lies in the Larzac Valley about 45km south of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon still in the Parc natural regional des Grands Causses.

Outside the village by the ramparts is La Cour Neuve (The New Yard), built between 1439-1445 during the Hundreds Years War. It was here that goods for the village were unloaded and through the centuries it was where the consuls gathered for public meetings.

Entering the village under the archway, to then walk along the medieval streets, one is immediately  plunged back into the past.

La Couvertoirade is one of several villages founded by The Knights Templar and then fortified by The Knights Hospitallers.

The Knights Templar were formed in 1118 by Hugh de Payens, a knight from the Champagne region of France to protect pilgrims traveling to The Holy Land. In 1128 the Treaty of Troyes gave them official approval and for 150 years they grouped together around settlements such as La Couvertoirade. The Order prospered acquiring land and many new noble members. But, in 1312, it was abolished by the Pope and all its possessions were given to the Knights Hospitaller of St. John of Jerusalem.

The Hospitaller were a military order established around 1070 to manage a hospital for sick pilgrims in Jerusalem. In 1310 they had become the Knights of Rhodes. They enriched the villages of the Larzac region until the 16th century when they were taken over by the Hugenots. From 1530 they were known as the Knights of Malta. They wore a black habit, with a white eight-pointed Maltese Cross. Some members later moved to Russia where the order collapsed in the early 1800’s. In the 1830’s the Order was restored in England and still remains today caring for the sick.

Lodève

Our last stop in Larzac, the county of the Hospitaller, was Lodève where we visited St Fulcran Cathedral, a Gothic 13th and 14th century cathedral dedicated to St-Géniez and then St Fulcran.

Our trip ended in Arles back in Provence. An hour from home we stopped and eat dinner under the Roman arches of this beautiful city's amphitheatre.  Inspired by the Roman Coliseum it was built in 90AD and is still in use today. So much history in this mystical part of France.

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Just under a three hours drive north west of Lourmarin lies the Aveyron region of southern France. A place of mystical fairy-tale châteaux, (we were fortunate enough to stay in one), medieval villages, gothic cathedrals, and a past where swash buckling knights fought to protect their land. A rich, verdant landscape where sheep and cattle graze happily just below the Massif Central. A region suddenly more accessible in the 21st century by the completion of the breathtaking Millau Viaduct.

Millau Viaduct

The Millau Viaduct, an incredible feat of engineering, spanning the Tarn Valley, it is the tallest viaduct and bridge in the world, forming part of the A75 from Paris to Béziers and Montpellier. It was designed by British architect Sir Norman Foster and French engineer, Michel Virlogeux  and was built by Eiffage. After 14 years of preparation, it took just three years to build and opened in 2004 at cost of 400 million euros.

Award winning and internationally acclaimed, the viaduct is often referred to as 'the structure which broke all records'. It is 2460 meters long and spans 242 meters, the Eiffel Tower could fit sideways between its two piers. Its steel deck weighs 36000 tonnes, the equivalent of 5100 African elephants. Its pylons are 87m high, equivalent to a 29-storey building and as the world's tallest bridge it rises 343 meters into the clouds, 19 meters taller than the Eiffel Tower.

Château de Labro

Hidden down a quiet, leafy lane an hour away, near the cathedral city of Rodez, we found our way to the 16th century Château de Labro. Our 'home' for a few nights whilst we explored this intriguing corner of France.

Our bedroom was in the original part of the old château, our bathroom in the turret.

A spiral, 'Rapunzel' staircase led up to our room,

through the château's Games Room,

into our sumptuously decorated bedroom.

The turret bathroom was perhaps a little different to navigate, with its hand-held shower over the toilet, becoming a true wet room once used!

Boasting a rich history of plots and intrigue, sadly the château became neglected. But, in 2002, Jean and Nizou Rouquet fell under its spell and embarked on an extensive restoration to bring it back to life.

Some of the bedrooms are in the lovely adjoining building, by the Spa and other receptions room.

Great care has been taken to create an authentic but luxurious place to stay. The exterior details are a subtle but charming nod to the past.

A clever blending of old and new,

with reminders of the château's rural setting.

The château is now run by the Rouquet' son, Michel, who hopes its visitors will be able to relax, surrounded by the serenity of the château and its carefully chosen furnishings and fixtures and the beauty of the surrounding Aveyron countryside.

Sauveterre de Rouergue

The Aveyron is home to several 'Plus Beaux Villages de France'. Sauveterre de Rouergue was the first one we visited. A charming medieval village, dating back to 1281, it is located in the heart of Ségala, the land of a hundred valleys, between Rodez and Albi.

The central square with its 47 arches, edged with timber framed and stone houses is a delightful place to sit and become immersed in the age-old ambience.

One can almost hear the clatter of small carts as people from a bygone era hurry across the cobbles below the arches to the market.

Belcastel

Thirty minutes to the north of Sauveterre de Rouergue lies Belcastel, also a 'Plus Beau Village de France'.

The magnificent fortress of Château de Belcastel, perched on a giant rock face, dates back over 1000 years. Initially it was a 9th century chapel which grew in size as generations of knights and nobles made their mark. It was abandoned in the 16th century until 1973, when renowned architect, Ferdinand Pouillon, began an eight year restoration process to make it his private home. An incredible historical landmark, the family still welcomes visitors to admire its art gallery, medieval armor and enjoy its stunning panoramic views.

Crossing the medieval bridge to the church,

one is reminded of the power that religion played in people's lives.

This place of worship, a short stroll across the water, might have been small but its importance in this tiny, medieval village, would have been immense for hundreds of years.

Rodez

Our explorations for the day finished back in Rodez, the capital of the Aveyron region, in the north east of the Midi- Pyrenees region, between the foothills of the Massif Central and the plains of the southwest.

Set on a hill, Rodez's gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame dominates the skyline. Its intricately carved tower reaching up above the old narrow streets. Inside it is just as magnificent.

The city squares are flanked by fine medieval and renaissance buildings built from either local creamy pale limestone or red sandstone, like these city walls.

We returned to our château, a short drive from this lovely city, to dinner and wine in the hotel restaurant, wondering what we'd discover the following day on our continued exploration of the Aveyron.

Map from Lourmarin

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After many months, and much persistence, dealing with the disappointment of cancelled flights and the uncertainty of COVID, we'd managed to return to England. After spending five special weeks with family and friends we were finally at the entrance to the Channel Tunnel beside the sign welcoming us to 'le shuttle'. Even then, we were unsure that French immigration, which you pass through in England, would permit us entry to France; us, in our French registered car, with British passports and American Vaccination cards. Despite having completed all the forms for our vaccinations to be recognized by the French 'Pass Sanitaire' (required to enter all restaurants and many buildings in France) we hadn't yet received the necessary paperwork back. So it was with considerable trepidation I handed over our documents to the Border Control officer. Like most of his breed he didn't speak. With a thumping heart I watched nervously as he scowled at our passports, brandishing his stamp to thump it down on an open page before glancing at our vaccine cards and passing it all back to me and then wave us on. We breathed a sigh of relief, had they really let us in, might we really be able to return to our fairy-tale village of Lourmarin?

As we followed the line of obedient looking traffic driving onto 'Le Shuttle', we half expected that someone might stop us, it didn't seem possible that we really were finally headed to France.

Barely forty minutes later we were disembarking and following the signs for the A26 autoroute, we were heading south.

Within a few hours we were walking the ramparts of the fortified little town of Langres, a convenient halfway point, just north of Dijon, where we'd booked to spend the night.

Chosen purely for its location, I cannot take any credit for knowing Langres would be so charming. As much of a francophile as I am, not all french towns are this appealing. It felt like the powers of internet searching had deliberately directed me here to welcome us back France, selecting this delightful little town with its pale, shuttered buildings, steeped in history and a beautiful, 12th century cathedral; Cathédrale Saint-Mammès de Langres.

Most fascinating of all, we discovered Langres was the birth place of the 18th century French philosopher, Denis Diderot, the co-founder of the encyclopedia!

Diderot smiled down on us as we sat and sipped an apéro before dinner. Surrounded by the lilting sounds of French voices we allowed ourselves to become immersed once more in the ambience of France, still scarcely believing we were really there.

And then the following day, 350 miles further south, when I next looked though my camera lens, my vision a little blurry, it was to capture the storybook village we'd waited so long to return to. Lourmarin, basking in the late afternoon Provençal patiently waiting for us, unchanged and enchanting as ever.

After we'd dispersed all of our luggage in our little house, Maison des Cerises, we strolled down our sun-kissed street, Rue du Grand Pré.

Lourmarin was bustling, village life seemed to have resumed its normal dance as if nothing had ever happened.

We sat down outside Café Gaby, one of our favorite spots in the village Marc, its owner greeted us like long lost friends; "ça va?" he beamed at us, "Oui" we nodded "et tu?"

And as we sat and watched the world go by everything was just as we remembered, just as it should be.

We returned back up our street and as various shop owners nodded and smiled in recognition, it felt like we belonged.

A little later, we watched the evening shadows settle on the buildings opposite our terrace, listening as the church bells told us the time.

And later still, having nibbled pizza in the village, we wandered the streets amidst the twinkling lights and sound of laughing voices.

We were back, back in Lourmarin, the beguiling little corner of the Luberon in Provence we call home, for part of the year at least, and we couldn't be happier.

The post Returning somewhere special, Lourmarin, our village in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.