I'm often asked why I called my blog 'Shutters and Sunflowers'. To me they are both so defining of Provence and indeed much of France. Throughout this beautiful country many of the buildings whether historic or recently built are adorned with shutters.

And in the summertime, everywhere but especially in Provence the fields are painted yellow, resplendent with golden carpets of smiling sunflowers. Somehow it wouldn't be Provence with out its dazzling, dancing tournesols and the shutters which adorn almost every window. But where did these shutters come from?

The history of shutters

It’s believed that the first shutters were designed by the ancient Greeks and made of marble. In times before there was glass, these marble shutters had fixed louvres and just as today were used for ventilation and light control. Over the years the concept was gradually developed. Marble was replaced with wood and the louvres became movable allowing the amount of light and air to be controlled.

In the Middle Ages, when windows were much smaller the shutters were hung inside. These interior shutters were pierced with holes and covered with translucent oiled parchment which allowed some light in and kept some of the draughts out. After the invention of glass in the 13th century windows became larger and building techniques more sophisticated. Interior shutters were designed to slide into apertures into the wood work beside the windows.

Exterior shutters first appeared around 1750. Normally painted white they were called contravents  or persiennes. They led to the decline of the balcony the existence of which would make the opening of shutters too difficult and shutters are not just for windows!

Stories about shutters

Some claim shutters that shutters were first used in France at the court of King Louis IV. Supposedly he introduced louvered shutters into his garden walls at his magnificent Palace of Versailles. The shutters were installed so only he could open them allowing him to watch unseen the beautiful ladies from court bathe in the gardens' numerous ponds.

Similarly in England, the story goes that when Lady Godiva road naked through the streets of Coventry, Tom would watch her unseen through his louvered shutters. Hence the term ‘Peeping Tom’!

Today only a few houses in England have shutters. In France however they are a distinguishing feature of French houses, an integral part of their charm.

Why French houses have shutters

As attractive as we might think shutters are, they have little to do with adornment but more with practicality. Restricting the amount of heat and light, shutters help keep rooms cool and prevent furniture from fading. During hot summer nights shutters make it possible for the inward opening windows to stay open keeping houses secure and minimizing unwanted insect visitors.

When outside temperatures soar it really does make a difference if you keep the shutters closed. Although it’s hard during the day to be in the dark behind closed shutters, I’m constantly amazed that when outside temperatures are sizzling if the shutters of our little house are kept fastened how cool the inside remains. Similarly on a hostile winters days especially when the Mistral is renting its wrath, closing the shutters helps keep the biting chill at bay.

Some insurers in France require you to close your shutters if you're going to be out for longer than two hours, failure to do so can invalidate your insurance, I’ll have to check our policy!

The design of the shutters of Provence

There are a myriad of different shutter styles. Like many shutters on village houses and farm properties ours are quite plain.

Some shutters are louvered and some are hinged so that only the lower half opens, our downstairs shutter is like this.

Shutters on listed building can prove to be a real headache for property owners. Les Bâtiments de France who protect historic properties can dictate not only the style but also the colour.

It is often a requirement to seek the permission of the local Maire if you want to change your shutters especially if your property is in a plus beaux village. 

In Lourmarin despite its plus beaux village status it doesn't currently seem to be a problem...

Whether the shutters have been adorning a window for centuries

such as these

or just a few years, Lourmarin boasts a varied array of shutters colours and styles.

The shutters of Provence truly are abundant in our enchanting little village. Next time I'll tell you a little about the sunflowers.

Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn about what to see and do in Lourmarin and where you can see for yourself the shutters of Provence!

The post The Shutters of Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

When one thinks of Provence, a visual wonder of enchanting spectacles fills the mind. Over the years I've tried to capture their simple magic to remember when I'm far away.

Sharing them with you now the words of Frederic Mistral, the esteemed Provence poet and 1904 Nobel prize winner for literature come to mind:

"When the Good Lord begins to doubt the world,

he remembers that he created Provence."

When I begin to doubt the world I remember I'll soon be returning to this captivating place, this place called Provence......

SHUTTERS

& (mais bien sûr)

SUNFLOWERS 

Breathtaking scenery

in the summer carpeted with 'the blue gold of Provence.'

Tree lined Avenues

leading to lush vineyards,

stunning wine domains each offering their own unique taste of the terroir,

for what could be Provencal than a pale, crisp glass of rosé?

Splendid Provencal cities

with majestic squares and gurgling fountains

perfect for dining el fresco, one of the greatest joys of life in Provence.

Meandering cobbled streets

flanked by golden, limestone buildings with brightly shuttered windows.

A vibrant Roman heritage & centuries of rich history

Roman Amphitheaters  

2000 year old viaducts

Papal Palaces

Geological wonders

Fairytale chateaux

Mystical hilltop villages perchés

& enchanting villages

 their clay-tiled roof tops guarding the secrets of a bygone era.

Entrancing & beguiling, begging to be explored,

along cobbled streets by ancient doorways.

Weekly Provencal markets

Overflowing with local gifts to fill your basket

Lavender

Handmade soaps

Olives

Baskets

Linens

 French bread

and goats cheese,

specialities of Provence, all too tempting to resist.

Indeed a vast array of all things délicieux

sweet

and savory

So many favorite things from Provence

it's hard to choose......

but perhaps what I love the most is its gentle tranquility, its peace, where just 'to be' is enough..........

Maybe you know somewhere that makes you feel like this, I'd love to know!

 Download The Lourmarin Travel Guide to learn more about this beautiful region of Provence

The post 'a few of my favourite things.....' in Provence! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

'It's a small world'

'It’s a small world', maybe an over used cliché...... Yet things often happen to me, fine gossamer strands weaving connections to my life in California and very often Provence. These invisible threads do indeed shrink my world, just like this story about the charming owner of a shop in Lourmarin, Rose de Bagatelle.

My 'small world' connections to Provence and especially Lourmarin are numerous ~ Our very special Lourmarin real estate agent, Gilbert at Sud Durance Immobilier who sold us our house has a daughter who lives in San Francisco. Ben, at L'insolite, a Lourmarin brasserie, who until recently was also in San Francisco where he ran a restaurant for five years. The American who recognizing me from my blog introduced himself outside Café Gaby and who lives three streets away from my son in San Francisco. The lady I met in Lourmarin who worked for our friend in San Francisco. The English chap I met in Lourmarin whose former colleague in Germany now works with my son in California and the English couple in Uzès whose daughter-in-law’s sister from New York works with my daughter in Michigan. The list continues and it’s one such small world connection which led me to meet Nanou in Lourmarin.

The village of Lourmarin

Rose de Bagatelle

Tucked along one of Lourmarin’s cobbled streets on 18 Rue du Temple lies the delightful gift and clothing store Rose de Bagatelle. Nestled within ancient golden stone walls this tiny enclave is brimming with carefully selected alluring treasures warmed by the bright, friendly smile of its proprietor Nanou.

Rue du Temple, Lourmarin

The Lourmarin family

First told about this lovely lady by Zennat, a designer in San Francisco who follows my blog, I went to  introduce myself. Someone once told me that the most endearing people are those that are interested, interesting and curious, Nanou is all three. On discovering I had recently bought a house in the village she immediately welcomed me telling me I was now part of the Lourmarin family, a Lourmarinoise.

“But,” I stammered surprised, “unlike you, I’m not French, and surely the locals consider me a stranger?”

“Non, non, non, Caroline!” Nanou insisted “You are one of us! I maybe French, originally from Paris but I too am not from here. I also chose Lourmarin because like you when I first came here in 2006, I knew I had to live here. It was love at first sight, after only one minute!”

Nanou smiled at me her azure eyes intent and serious, full of emotion.

“Oh.” I muttered flattered to have a such a connection with a Parisian. “I love it here, it's utterly intoxicating, it fills my soul, yet I can never truly explain it.”

Nanou smiled knowingly. “Caroline,” (I so love the way she speaks my name as if savoring a rich, velvety wine) “Trying to share such a feeling is like trying to articulate why you chose the man you love. You might say he is handsome or kind or patient or many such things. Others may agree or not but that's not important, he's those things to you… and it is the same about a place. This little village that fills your heart does so for reasons that are special to you and that’s all that matters.”

The magical romance of her wisdom immediately resonated and I knew I’d found a soul mate. The small world connection continued as when I explained I lived in California she laughed telling me that her Italian husband had a long standing love affair with USA. “Sometimes,” she laughed “I think he thinks he is not Italian at all but American and so we have a home in Arizona. And like you we go back and forth between Lourmarin and USA.” Really, someone else was as crazy as me?!

We’ve chatted and laughed together many times since, getting to know one another, sharing stories, learning about each others lives......

Not long after that first visit to Lourmarin in 2006, Nanou persuaded her husband to move there from Bologna, Italy. Shortly afterwards Nanou opened Rose de Bagatelle (named after Bagatelle Park in Paris where she has fond memories of walking with her grandfather.) Luring her daughter Tatiana from Paris to run the shop with her, Tatiana initially wanted to explore other locations in Provence. However she quickly understood her mother’s entrancement with Lourmarin.

“There is something about this place.” Nanou told me wistfully “It is difficult to put into words, I call it the ‘Lourmarin effect’. Tatiana felt it too."

Inside Rose de Bagatelle, 18 Rue du Temple, Lourmarin

Domaine La Cavale

Months after meeting Nanou, those delicate threads spun their invisible magic again. During a visit to a local wine domaine La Cavale, the vivacious and knowledgeable young woman who spent over an hour with us explaining about the grapes and the wine and all things viticulture turned out to be Tatiana…….

La Cavale, 3017 Route de Lourmarin, Cucuron

 As delightful as her mother, Tatiana works at La Cavale and Rose de Bagatelle. 

The tasting room of Domain La Cavale

Had Zennat in San Francisco not followed my blog and not got in touch maybe I'd still not have met Nanou, a lady who lives in Lourmarin and spends half her life in USA. If Tatiana hadn't been so engaging maybe we'd never have chatted and I'd never have discovered she was Nanou's daughter. Somehow I think those 'small world' ethereal threads will just keep spinning and connecting.............

If you are in the Luberon do visit the state of the art winery at La Cavale. And 10 minutes away in the middle of Lourmarin, Nanou and Tatiana's charming boutique, Rose de Bagatelle where you'll find clothes, accessories and jewelry which as their website says ‘are as elegant as these ladies are feminine.' 

Rose de Bagatelle

18 Rue du Temple, Lourmarin 84160

 +33 490 791 282 

The post Rose de Bagatelle ~more treasures & gifts from Lourmarin appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

What motivates and inspires someone to leave where they live where everything is safe and familiar and move to another country? Somewhere with a completely different language, culture and way of doing things? What happens if you need medical attention or a plumber, or if your car breaks down, or if you get stopped by the local police, especially when you scarcely speak the language? Why would anyone do this unless they had to? Even if the place is Provence, which although utterly beguiling, still doesn't induce it's very many visitors to actually move there!

Author Keith Van Sickle does a marvelous job of attempting to explain why. His first book, succinctly articulates the key to survival in the title; ‘One Sip at a Time’! Yet while Keith and his wife Val may well have drawn courage sampling the splendid offerings of the local vintners, they have also made valiant efforts to really embrace this other place they call home.

And there is much to understand, the customs, the food, the language, a feat in itself, as Keith explains: 'there are a mind blowing 26 (yes, 26) tenses of French verbs!'

Refusing to be daunted by all those very many declensions, Keith and Val have opened their hearts and minds to the entire way of life in Provence and what they cherish most of all, the people. Perhaps it’s of little surprise that the title of Keith’s second book is the question they’ve so often asked themselves: ‘Are We French Yet?’ You’ll have to read it to decide. Click here to buy

Both of Keith’s books are fun, easy reads, full of charming, witty accounts of the many exploits, discoveries and occasional mystifying challenges he and Val have encountered in Provence. Many of which I can totally relate to.

There’s the issue of kissing when you greet people: 'If you gave three kisses when it should be two, would people think you were rather pushy and forward? If you only gave two kisses instead of three, would you be considered standoffish?'

And the Pharmacies; much tinier than in the US and with different rules where you can’t just help yourself to over-the-counter medications: 'Instead, you have to wait in line to see a pharmacist, and then describe your problem so that… everyone in line can hear what you’re saying.' And if you don’t speak great French the Pharmacist will announce for the entire shop to hear: '“Speak up! You say you have a HORRIBLE LOOKING FUNGUS on your WHAT?” '

Then there’s the all-important thing our 'children' tease about, the wearing of scarves, not by me but my husband, an obligatory accessory whether male or female when living in Provence or as it turns out much to the 'children’s' amusement when you return to California! For as my husband (modeling below) and Keith know 'the French wear scarves year-round. AND they know how to tie them.'

Keith does a great job of articulating why he and Val love Provence. How it makes them feel, its’ alluring pace, its’ natural beauty, its’ people, its’ way of life, its’ fascinating history whose timeless traditions still reach out to touch life today. A myriad of tiny details as abundant as a basket filled with fresh sunflowers picked from the local fields, ones which have also smiled upon us and totally resonate.

We actually have much in common. We both live near San Francisco, we both enjoy food and good wine, we are both curious explorers interested in people. We might originate from different continents but we share a deep-seated passion for Provence which inspired us both to write, not just our blogs which connected us but to write a book. I'm still embarking upon the arduous conventional publication path for my World War II novel set in Provence telling the true story of the Poles who first cracked the Enigma code. With two successful publications to his name Keith is way ahead of me and I’ve enjoyed both of them

I’m in awe of Keith and Val’s impressive efforts to master the French language, somehow succeeding in declining all those tenses and getting their tongues to roll those r’s correctly. It’s inspiring to learn how it’s helped them build close friendships in St Remy-de-Provence, the delightful Provencal town I also love, where they spend the majority of their time.

I'm also impressed how by determinedly reading French literature and studying French newspapers and TV Keith and Val have developed a good grasp on what it is that makes French people French.

I would suggest that the answer to Keith’s latest book's title ‘Are we French yet?’ is ‘mais oui, bien sûr!'

You don’t have to be a Francophile to enjoy Keith’s books; they’re endearing because they’re about living. As Keith explains, just like us, he and Val are constantly asked: 'why do you want to spend so much of the year in Provence, what do you do when you are there, what new things have you visited?'

Whilst there is an abundance of things to still discover, that is not why either of us go there. We’re not tourists seeking to check off the next list of ‘must see’ sights, we go there to live: 'we’re just 2 people living in Provence and the business of living fills our days…..'

And that business of living is not only real but magical. And for us, just like for Keith and Val. 'Magical is the right word. Magic seems to happen to us in France.' 

The post 'Are we French yet?' ~ The magic of living in Provence by Keith Van Sickle appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

As we've spent increasing amounts of time in Lourmarin we've come to know more of the people in the village, all of whom have been warm and welcoming.  Like us, many of them are not originally from the area but similarly captivated by its' enchantment they have chosen to make it their home. Teresa Gaik, the owner of the beautiful linen, clothing, and interior store KOT, is one such person.

Born near Krakow, Poland, we first met four years ago in the Lourmarin market. Teresa collects antique linens, and as an extremely talented seamstress and crochetiere she transforms these vintage pieces into stunning throws, curtains, cushions and bags restoring and dying table cloths and napkins for a new generation to enjoy.

Teresa came to the south of France as a fairly young girl. She met her French husband just after High School whilst holidaying in Greece, he was from Marseille and enticed her to Provence. With an eye for interior decoration and floral artistry, once their three children were old enough Teresa began working for a floral and interior design shop in Aix-en-Provence. Accomplished and passionate about her work Teresa became responsible for three shops traveling and buying from all over Europe.

Seeking a change of direction, seven years ago Teresa decided to begin a new venture on her own. Working from home she started restoring old wood furniture and from her collection of antique linens she began sewing. Dying the linens with natural colours she bought vintage lace and using her considerable talents at crochet work transformed them into cushions, bags and curtains. She started selling her linens in the markets at Gordes, Lourmarin and Uzès taking on decorating projects for Weddings and other special events.

Like me, Teresa also fell in love with Uzès and seriously considered moving there. However, with her children living closer to the Luberon she opened her first shop, KOT, in Bonnieux, hoping at some point for an opportunity to move it to Lourmarin.

Within a year her patience was rewarded and in the early summer of 2018 Teresa re-opened KOT in Lourmarin. Within a few months she made a further move to a slightly larger premise, one that she’d actually fallen in love with five years earlier when she'd been asked to collaborate with an existing business. The actual shop had felt perfect but not wishing to partner with someone else, with some misgivings, she'd turned the opportunity down. Destiny had now intervened and for Teresa is felt like a dream come true, she moved her business to somewhere that truly felt perfect.

Situated on rue de la Juiverie this small area of Lourmarin was originally part of a small but vibrant Jewish community and the shop was once a tiny synagogue. Local Jewish women had come to the shop to collect water for purification from the tiny stream which ran beneath it. As a woman of faith this religious connection means a great deal to Teresa

Teresa is thrilled to now have her delightful daughter Olga involved in running the shop which frees up some of her time to devote to interior design commissions.

Set within a centuries old curved limestone cave type setting Teresa has already begun renovating the rear of this charming space. Oozing with ambience she will soon be offering design classes beginning with the creation of unique and beautiful Japanese lampshades taught by another equally talented French lady Teresa has come to know. I am looking forward to seeing their combined mastery at work knowing whatever Teresa turns her hand to will be not only beautiful but created with a thoughtful, loving hand.

Whether you want something stylish to wear or to decorate your home or a small gift of jewelry, you could do no better than to stop by Teresa’s delightful shop. And even if you walk away not having made a purchase you’ll return for you'll have met someone very special.

KOT ~ Teresa Gaik

Boutique rue de la Juiverie 84160 Lourmarin

+33 78192068 gaikt@msn.com

Instagram

The post Beautiful people & beautiful linens in Lourmarin at KOT appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

When Philippe Franc, the owner of La Maison FRANC first came to live in Pertuis, near Lourmarin, his neighbor welcomed him with a gift, a lavender wand or Coeur de Lavande.

It was a defining moment and the first step in a story which led to the opening of his exquisite shop in Lourmain, La Maison FRANC.

Having travelled the world as a Merchant Marine engineer, Philippe has extensive experience of different cultures and traditions and they've made a significant impression ~"People, places, tastes and smells are the things we remember." 

Philippe was touched by his neighbor's gift particularly as it was one of perfume, knowing that people everywhere understand the language of the scent. "It brings peace to offer someone a gift of welcome, it makes you feel a little better about your day.”

Coming from a family of artists, whose grandmother in the 1920’s worked for Haviland porcelain in Limoges, Philippe told me “I believe art and design have a great impact on humanity. I love to combine poetry with purpose." And so Philippe became involved in the art of creating the Coeur de Lavande.

Lavender in the Luberon, Provence

Lavender bushes have fanned their purple fronds along the arid ridges of Provence for centuries. The lavender wand's birthplace is in nature. Where the lavender grows, the elevation and orientation of the land, the purity and humidity of air and the nature of the soil defines its quality.

Philippe's lavender is farmed in the breathtaking Luberon hills above Apt about 35 minutes from Lourmarin. Philippe grows fine lavender and like other lavender associated businesses, a hybrid, lavendine. Grown at lower altitudes than lavender, around 500-700m, surrounded by trees and fields it is nurtured without pesticides.

Lavendine is a stronger plant than lavender with longer stems, each with two small branches. It produces more oil than lavender and also camphor, well know for its soothing massage properties. 40kg of flowers are need to provide one litre of essential lavendine oil.

La Maison FRANC’s farmers tend and harvest their lavendine with great expertise as if they're cultivating grapes for champagne or fine wine. Blooming at the end of June and harvested mid July to August, they ensure the lavender is not overexposed to the sun, cutting it when the stems are fresh and the seeds are full of their essential oil.

Making the Coeur de Lavande

To make the Coeur de Lavande it is important to get the best stems and when cutting to leave the seeds on the stem to optimize the fragrance.

Philippe showed me the basics of the wands' construction. It can take up to two months to properly learn the technique and perfect Philippe's exemplary standards.

Committed to quality and excellence La Maison FRANC only uses the finest of ribbons predominantly from the best producers in St. Etienne, France.

La Maison FRANC offers two shapes, as a standard, the wand and the boule both in a variety of sizes, priced according to the luxury of the ribbon. Click here for design details.

The story of Lavender

People have been using lavender medicinally for centuries. Both the Greeks and the Romans recognized its' healing properties and the Bible refers to it as 'spikenard' used to wash the feet of Jesus. Lavender began to be used medicinally in France in the 11th century, initially in Montpellier, 160km from Lourmarin. In England in the 16th century Queen Elizabeth I insisted on fresh lavender throughout her residences and in the 17th century it was used as a remedy for the Great Plague in London. During the Victorian era lavender became extremely popular both in gardens and perfumed products.

The story lavender as a perfume, often called the ‘blue gold’ by perfume manufacturers. really begins in Grasse, 200km from Lourmarin, in the Provencal hills above The French Riviera. In the 12th century, rather than perfume, Grasse was renown for it’s leather-tanning industry, especially its leather gloves coveted among the nobility of Europe. Soaked in urine to soften the leather the gloves smelt unpleasant until a local tanner created a leather scent of rose water and spices. When a pair of scented gloves were presented to Catherine de Medici she was enchanted and the rare scents from around Grasse, myrtle, jasmine, rose, orange blossom wild mimosa and of course lavender began to be captured and bottled. And so Grasse became established as the perfume capital of the world.

Future Dreams

Philippe currently has two workshops. Firmly believing in the essence of peace these perfumed gifts can bring he would love to open workshops in Israel to have Palestinian and Israeli women working alongside each other and one in Tasmania with Aborigines and Australians working together.

Involved in this business for over 13 years, Philippe is hoping to create similar products with amber and rose and is going to Oman to harvest frankincense to apply the same principals he’s used with lavender.

Already selling to numerous exclusive hotels and brands throughout the world Philippe opened La Maison FRANC in Lourmarin this summer. He is partnering with a jewelry shop in St Johns Wood, London and was leaving for Dubai as we spoke.

What could be more special than a present made of natural products which when squeezed releases the evocative fragrance of Provence?

The best lavender interwoven with beautiful ribbon distinguishes this exceptional gift, its beautiful scent expressing welcome, friendship & love. No wonder they are so often used for celebrations of both.

La Maison FRANC ships all over the world. There's still time to buy one of their lovely lavender boules to hang on your Christmas tree, they're so pretty and fragrant you should keep them out all year.

Visit Philippe's shop should you come to Lourmarin, he'll tell you his story far better than I!

La Maison FRANC  17-7 Rue Henri de Savornin, 84160 Lourmarin, France

www.franc1884.com

The post Lavender, the essence of Provence from La Maison FRANC 1884, Lourmarin appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Nestled among rolling vineyards between the historic city of Aix-en-Provence (14km) and the stunning Luberon Valley (21km) you will find Château La Coste. Purchased by Irish real estate developer Paddy McKillen in 2002, the ordinary has been transformed into the extraordinary. Château La Coste is now a stunning domain set within 600 hectares, dedicated not just to fine wine but art, architecture and well-being.

Come to enjoy the wine, stroll through the extensive grounds, admire the incredible art and be sure to leave time to eat at one of the estate's scrumptious restaurants. Details below, reservations might be required.

The wine at Château La Coste

The Cuverie at Château La Coste, is a revelation bringing fresh life to a centuries old tradition skillfully merging the past with the present. Using state of the art technology, this new generation winery, created by architect Jean Nouvel opened in 2008. Over 10m high and extending 17m below ground it provides a perfect environment for preserving wine.

Accessible only by guided tour: Daily in French from 11am and 3pm, 1pm in English. Fee 12€ - 10€.

The wines

Committed to using biodynamic principles, Château La Coste blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Vermentino, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cinsault grapes. In 2008, just one year after their first harvest, they earned the prized organic ‘AB” distinction. Sample for yourself, the wine shop opens every day at 10.00.

The Art Center of Tadao Ando

Designed by Tadao Ando, a self taught Japanese architect born in 1941, the Art Center at Château La Coste opened in 2011. Dramatic, somewhat austere concrete walls, dotted with small conical punches, lay at an angle to its V-shaped structure composed entirely of imposing bay windows.

Sub divided into two, one area houses the reception area and book store, the other a cutting edge restaurant. Facing the vines it is set next to an infinity pool which cleverly conceals the underground parking below it.

'What I tried to do here, because of Cézanne's presence in Aix, is to create a new work close to nature.' Explained Tadao Ando.' I wanted to capture the same, very humble spirit of Cézanne's paintings.'

The Art and Architecture Walk

The Art and Architecture Walk at Château La Coste is a fascinating two hour stroll next to olive groves and rolling vineyards meandering through the woods beside some stunning pieces of art.

Open March 1st - November 1st Everyday 10 am - 7 pm
November 2 - February 29 Monday to Friday 10 am to 5 pm Saturday and Sunday until 7 pm. There is an admission charge, click her for more details

Below are some of the 31 marvels which particularly caught my attention.

Crouching Spider ~Louise Bourgeois 

Taking pride of place next to the art center and hovering just above the glistening water is Louise Bourgeois’ bronze statue, created in 2003 and installed here in 2011. Believing spiders protect us, it was designed in homage to the artist’s mother, its twisted muscular legs reflecting the gnarled limbs of the vines surrounding it.

Small Crinkly~Alexander Calder 1976

Created in 1976 by American artist Alexander Calder, famous for his interpretation of mobiles, this is the only piece not specifically made for the domain. At its home at Château La Coste it becomes its most vibrant when swept up by the Mistral, a spectacle to witness!

Wall of light Cubed ~ Sean Scully 

Best known for his paintings, Sean Scully's Wall of Light consists of 1000 tonnes of limestone bought from Portugal.

Pavilion of Music ~Frank O. Gehry 2008 

The pavilion was created as a partnership between world renowned Canadian-American Artist, Frank O. Gehry and the Serpentine Gallery in London where it was first exhibited in 2007. Gehry's famous designs include The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and The Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles.

Psicopompos ~ Tunga 2011

Combining cast iron magnets from China, quartz from Peru and local stone from nearby Rognes, this Brazilian artist's work attempts to portray the link between the spirit and material.

The Chapel ~Tadao Ando 2011

In Tado Ando’s restoration of this 16th century place of worship, the remains of the original structure have been wrapped in glass.

It is situated at the pinnacle of the Art and Architecture Walk offering magnificent unobstructed views of the region.

The Restaurants at Château La Coste

La Terrace

Set under shaded pergolas, where there is often live music, La Terrace is ideal for lunch, especially after a ramble exploring the grounds.

A casual bistro style menu of delicious salads, home-made soups and tarts. Approx. 16€ for a main course.

Tadao Ando Cafe

More formal than La Terrace, this sleek, modern setting within the art center offers both indoor and outdoor dining for lunch and dinner. A la carte menu approx. 70€ for three courses, menu of the day 34€ per person.

Francis Mallmann

Rustic and elegant, decorated in the colors of a Cézanne Studio, offering local flavors with an Argentinian twist by its Argentinan born chef from whom it takes its name. (Featured on Netflix' Chefs Table) A la carte menu approx. 100€ for three courses per person

Le Louison

A truly gourmet experience at this one star Michelin restaurant at the hotel from chef Gérald Passedat. In keeping with the splendor of the estate each course is an artistic masterpiece. Five course set menus from 95€ -165€ per person

 Salon

Describe as "bistronomic" (blending gastronomic and bistro), open daily for lunch and dinner; from 38€  for lunch and from 50€ for dinner.

Villa La Coste ~ the hotel at Château La Coste

Situated on the hillside amongst the vines the hotel at Château La Coste, Villa La Coste, opened in 2017. A luxury haven offering twenty eight villa suites, ten with a private pool, and terraces boasting panoramic views of the Luberon. The contemporary architecture is accentuated by the use of local materials. It has beautiful, extensive gardens, a pool, bar, library and spa.

Even if you don't have time to rest your head at this sumptuous spot be sure to leave time to visit the estate should you be in this beautiful part of Provence.

Plan your special occasion here:

Join one of the chateaus special events, bring a group for an organized day visit, or become part of one of the outdoor movie screenings, art exhibits, art and wine workshops (normally 2.5 hours long 20-25€ per person) and concerts. Click here for the schedule

Click here to plan your visit. I'd love to know what you think and which pieces of art you especially loved!

The post Château La Coste, Provence, art, architecture food and wine! appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

It's raining today in Provence and after nearly a month of clear, blue skies and gentle, warm autumnal days, temperatures have plummeted signaling the beginnings of winter. No where, even Lourmarin, is as idyllic in the rain, or is it?

Perhaps enticed by the recently hung lights across the villages streets and the shops starting to become festooned with Christmas, with the clocks falling back this weekend, winter seems to have silently crept upon us. A low lying mist hangs over the hillsides, a mystical backdrop for the foliage's late autumnal palette of colors.

Sweaters, scarfs and umbrellas have been rooted out and fireside baskets replenished with logs ready for the approaching winter chill. Tears, from hours of relentless rain run down the drain pipes, the walls of shuttered buildings streaming as if they have head colds.

Meanwhile, my son 5000 miles away in San Francisco, reminds me that there daytime temperatures remain at a consistent 25 degrees and although the nights are drawing in winter is still a memory. Navigating the puddles along the grey twisty lanes, the vines beside me dripping like rows of forgotten washing, California seem very far away. With the weather forecast in Provence not that promising, has this special corner of the world lost its allure?

You probably know what I am going to say. For me the sensory splendor never diminishes here and despite the rain and cloudier skies it remains a beguiling delight to explore and be a part of the world.

Walking and hiking

The leaves are turning to shades of deep umber and gold and on long meandering walks the natural beauty is a visual joy. 

Wine tasting

The vendage (grape harvest) is complete but the wine domains are still open from which to sample.

Exploring local villages

During winter in Provence, popular villages like Roussillon are more serene without the  jostling tourists.

The sunflowers might long ago have ceased to dance but everywhere there are shutters to catch the eye!

Markets during winter in Provence

The market stalls have thinned out but so have the visitors so its easier to get around and there's still plenty of bounty to entice.

Olives

Nougat

Winter vegetables

Cèpes Porcini, one of the tastiest wild mushrooms one of many varieties available just before winter in Provence.

Christmas markets

Christmas Marchés de Noël  everywhere, they're about to start!

Restaurants

Restaurant reservations are easier to secure, especially those sought after el fresco spots, so hard to get during busier times!

And just being here, however simple...

remains intoxicating, particularly here ~ 'A Good Year's' Château Canorgue!

And especially here in Lourmarin,

my fairy tale village.

Looking to rent a house, rent ours!  Maison des Cerises a village house in the heart of Lourmarin.

The post Lourmarin, what to do as winter approaches in Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Recently someone who only had four days to spend in Provence asked me if I had to choose between a visit to Aix-en-Provence or Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, which would it be. Preferably I’d find the time for both but as stunning a city as Aix is, in June, on a first visit to Provence I think I’d choose Saint-Rémy. A happy little town, so charming and colorful and so typically Provence!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ why it charms!

It’s pretty! Meandering cobbled streets shaded under a canopy of plane trees, packed with cafes, restaurants, galleries and cute boutiques happily mingled together.

Yet steps away from the bustle there are secluded corners where fountains who happily chuckled to others over the years, Nostradamus, (who was actually born here) Van Gogh and Princess Caroline of Monaco, still gurgle contently. So many wonderful reminders of days gone by.

Come on a Wednesday, when a colorful market sprawls along its streets overflowing into its picturesque squares.

Blessed with over 300 days of sunshine this vibrant, historic Provencal town is small enough to sample in half a day. However with so much to discover both within its enfolds and close by, Saint-Rémy is a delightful base for a few days in this region of Provence.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~What to do

A great way to discover the secrets of Saint-Rémy is via one of its self guided audio. There are two available: 'Discover the town' and 'The Van Gogh Walk'. In French and English, lasting from an hour to a full day Price: €3.00, learn more here: Saint-Rémy Audio guide.

Estrine Museum and Van Gogh Interpretation Centre 8 rue estrine 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 34 72. Built in 1749, once a splendid hotel, Estrine is now a museum where The Vincent van Gogh Interpretation Center pays tribute to this incredible artist who lived in Saint-Rémy, May 8, 1889 to May 20, 1890. The museum also hosts a constant stream of exhibitions featuring the work of many other celebrated artists. Visit their website here

Saint-Rémy tourist board website has further information for other museums, chapels and sites.

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where to eat

There are so many choices, many of which I have yet to sample, do tell me your discoveries, here are a few of ours:

L’Estagnol 7 Blvd Marceau 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 05 95 Price: €8 ~ €22 Delicious tapas salads and mains, Mediterranean with a fusion twist.

Chez Fanny's Place Mireille Moatti 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 92 90 89 Newly opened in March 2018 this quaint courtyard spot offers yummy salads and pastas Price: from €16.

Gus 31 Boulevard Victor Hugo 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Tel: 04 90 90 27 61 Delicious menu especially for seafood loversPrice €13 ~ €30. Open all year every day lunch & dinner. Closed Mondays November~March

L’Aile ou la Cuisse  5 Rue de la commune 13210 Saint Rémy de Provence Tel: 04 32 62 00 25
Price: €13 ~ €37. Wonderful family recipes in a gourmet bistro setting. Known especially for its mouthwatering pastries and deserts. Open every day April 1st to November 15th lunch & dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday from November 16th to March 31st

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ Where to stay

I've never actually stayed in Saint Rémy but there's some wonderful places, both in the town and close by including some really special luxurious gems.

Hotel and Restaurant Tourrel   Hotel Gounod

Hotel Le Vallon de Valrugues & Spa  Hotel Image  Le Château of Alpilles 5 

I'd also check what Alistair Sawday has to recommend. This Sawdays' suggestion caught my eye Appartement d'Anges, two beautiful accommodations for 2-6 people offering personalized tours and gourmet experience.

Le petit Bijou a really special place to rent from Vicki Archer, a wonderful authority on the area!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~ What's nearby

Glanum Archeological Site

Route des Baux de Provence D5 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence 04 90 92 23 79 website

Part of Provence's rich Roman heritage,  just one km from Saint-Rémy, the site of Glanum was inhabited from about 500 BC. In the 2nd century BC it became a Greek town and from the 1st to the 3rd centuries, colonized by the Romans it was a resplendent Roman city with great public, civil and religious buildings. Destroyed by barbarian invasions around 260AD the survivors founded a new village that was to become Saint-Rémy. It was virtually forgotten until 1921 when excavations began to reveal its incredible past. Definitely worth a visit!

Open: 1 April to 30 September 9:30am to 6pm  1 October to 31 March (Closed on Monday)10 am to 5 pm with various holiday closures check website for details. Fees: Adults €8, reductions for children, students and groups

Les Baux-de-Provence

Les Baux-de-Provence is just 10 minutes from Saint-Rémy on route from Glanum. One of Provence’s most atmospheric perched villages, precariously hugging the craggy limestone of the Alpilles hills, with links to the biblical Wise Men and Monaco’s Grimaldi family, it’s a place where time has stood still….Read more about Les Baux here

If time is short visit both Les Baux and Saint-Rémy together, preferably on a Wednesday for Saint-Rémy's delightful market, enjoy lunch in the town. (Sadly Les Baux has disappointing choices). Leave time to include the audio visual art spectacle of Carrières de Lumières next to Les Baux, admission to which can be combined with the entrance to its' château ruins.

Carrières de Lumières

Just an 800m strole from Les Baux de Provence, each year the artistic talent of the maestros is splashed upon the towering walls and floor of this former bauxite quarry in Val d’Enfer at Les Baux. Set to a mystical, musical background, it is always a spellbinding spectacle. Previous years have included Chagall, Bosch, Brueghel and Arcimboldo, this year the work of Picasso and the Spanish masters 

For more information: Carrières de Lumières  Route de Maillane 13520 Les Baux de Provence Tel: 04 90 54 37 Open: 9.00am -6.00pm, (later in summer) 7 days a week from March – January  Admission: €12.50 Euros, family and other discounts available. If time permits buy the combined ticket which includes the excellent audio tour of the château ruins at Les Baux. Check their website for details.

In addition to the local wine domains and olive mills there are also the delightful small towns and villages of Les Alpilles to explore such as Eygalières and Maussane-les-Alpilles. The splendid Roman city of Arles (23km ) is full of archeological treasures, including its original amphitheater and as another home of Van Gogh it has its own Van Gogh museum and sites to further tell his story.

Enjoy your visit to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and let me know what you discover!

Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ~Where it is

Nestled at the foot of Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of Provence.

Marseilles Airport: 70km (60min)      Avignon: 25km (30min)       Arles: 23km (36min)

Aix en Provence: 73km (65mins)      Lourmarin: 52km (55min)

The post Saint-Rémy-de-Provence appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.

Many people dream of owning a winery; a romantic illusion of strolling through carefully tended vines sharing your vintages within the shadows of a sprawling château, which for me would have to be in Provence. Of course dreams like this seldom come true, such a highly competitive, risky venture would require a fairly hefty dose of courage not to mention immense commitment and hard toil. A ‘little bit’ of money would help and a great deal of skill and knowledge. But it surely begins with a dream, a passion to follow your heart, along with a resolute but gentle sprinkling of determination to do so.

The Bagnis family

This is the story of the Bagnis family from Marseille; Daniel a pharmacist, his lovely wife Anne-Marie, whose family for three generations have been involved in the distribution of exotic fruits and their daughters Mathilde and Camille. The Bagnis had such a dream, a dream to own a wine domain in Provence. Minutes from Lourmarin, I was fortunate to get to know a little of their story and how they have dedicated themselves to making their dream come true.

The family's initial step was for Anne-Marie to complete three years of study at Lycee Agricole de Gardanne learning about viticulture and the marketing and exporting of wine. With Camille having also finished her business and master’s degrees the family began their search for the right property. Having first considered the Eastern Appellation in the Var they realised that they preferred the more traditional charms of the Luberon.

Looking for about 15-20 hectares, as Anne Marie told me “not too small to be limited but not too large to become complicated”, it also had to have a beautiful ‘house’, one that exuded charm and character. Having visited about ten properties they came to the stunning 18th century Le Château Constantin about a kilometer from Lourmarin.

Le Château Constantin

A glorious 18th château surrounded by olive groves and oak forests nestled by the river L’Aigue Brun whose century old deposits of limestone had created a terroir similar to that at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, about 80km to the north-west. Believed to be a former Roman site where Emperor Constantin took the natural waters, the 3 fountains on the property bare testament to this legacy, one of them being the symbol of Le Château Constantin wines.

It is not hard to understand what captivated the Bagnis family and in 2016 it became theirs, the dream was coming true and the work began.

Originally a farm, Le Château Constantin had been producing wine for about 40 years. The Bagnis' purchased it from William Chase, a distiller from England. However it had been its previous owner, Allen Chevalier, who had been responsible for establishing both the name and reputation of Le Château Constantin, and who from 1990 -2011 had produced some of the most esteemed vintages in the AOC Luberon.

The terroir

Embarking on this exciting but enormous venture, the Bagnis asked Chevalier’s vintner to return to work for them. The production under Chase has been about 90% rose but believing the limestone carpeted terroir could produce excellent red and white wines they took the focus in a different direction.

That was two years ago, today 60% of the estate is Syrah and Grenache for red wine and unusually for the Luberon, Cabernet Sauvignon. 20% is planted with Vermentino and Viognier for white wine and also not typical in this region, Chardonnay. Mature Mourvèdre vines have also been planted which will yield its first crop within 3 years. From the Mourvèdre the Bagnis hope to produce a sophisticated, complex red wine suitable for laying down for 10 -15 years.

Currently, by fermenting the grapes in both new and old oak barrels for about 12 months, the château is yielding more fruity wines best consumed within 3 years. Some of their wine is also fermented in concrete and very unusually in terra cotta barrels bought by Chase for his rosé production.

Used in Greece and Italy for centuries the fermenting process in the terra cotta barrels is more complicated as the terra cotta is very porous and changes the complexity of the wine. But as I will explain it produces a wine with excellent minerals much quicker than wood or metal barrels. In the terra cotta white wine can ferment within as little as 4 months.

The wines of Le Château Constantin

Cuvée Tradition AOP Luberon

White wine ~ A subtle suggestion of exotic fruits and citrus. Vermentino and Viognier grapes, pairs beautifully with bouillabaisse or grilled sea bass.

Red wine ~ A deep red coloured, expressive wine with notes of blackberry, cherry and cranberry embellished by sweet spices. 10% Syrah and 90% Grenache grapes, excellent with red meat and spicy food.

Rosé wine ~ A fresh and delicate pale rosé with aromas of strawberry, gooseberry and a subtle suggestion of lemon. Syrah, Grenache and Vermentino grapes, delicious with poultry, lightly spiced curries and citrus deserts.

Cuvée Premium AOP Luberon Rosé

An elegant fresh rosé with notes of nectarine, apricot and strawberry and touches of citrus. Similar to the Cuvée Tradition Rosé it is a perfect accompaniment for lightly spiced dishes and desserts. Cuvée Tradition White will be available in May 2018.

Amphore by Constantin – PGI Mediterranee White

Aged in the terra cotta barrels, (which in French translates as amphoras, hence cuvée amphore), this pale gold, rounded wine has notes of white peach and pear with slight floral and mineral touches. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Viognier grapes, Amphore pairs beautifully with sashimi, richer meat dishes and local goat's cheese.

Committed to becoming organic

Already using organic/bio methods with fewer sulfites, by next year all the château's wines will be labeled bio. It takes 3 years of bio production to be able to say that you are a bio producer.

The market

The Bagnis’ goal is to produce a high quality mid priced boutique wine. In my humble opinion they have already more than exceeded that goal! Currently they are selling directly at the domain itself, at local Lourmarin restaurants No 9, Le Moulin, Auberge La Fenière, in Lourmarin’s 'Cave du Château' and theepicerie 'Super Taf 2' and also in restaurants and small boutique shops in Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.

The château

Part of the dream was to also own a beautiful château. One that would be a home but one that could also be rented for large family gatherings and Weddings.

The main part of the château is already available with 2 kitchens, 2 elegant living rooms, a dining room, a large shaded patio and stunning pool, 4 stylish en-suite bedrooms and a further 3 en-suites currently being restored. Set amongst the vines of a working domaine this is a stunning setting for any family get together. During such times the Bagnis' would live in the newly converted pied-a-terre above the tastefully restored tasting room.

If you are interested contact the Bagnis here.

Weddings at the château

Their first Wedding will be this July, the ceremony in the grounds and the reception by the pool. In such an enchanted setting it cannot fail to be anything other than romantically breathtaking!

The next phase of this project will be the conversion of their very grand Pigeonnier into a summer kitchen.

Not only did I have the pleasure of meeting Daniel and Anne Marie but also their delightful daughter Camille. Sadly I did not have the opportunity to meet Mathilde, a nurse in Marseille who comes often to the château to help out. Camille, like her mother is both charming and already impressively knowledgeable and I am sure invaluable to the realisation of this exciting family venture.

Standing with Camille admiring chateau’s sprawling vineyards and watching her father laboring with his team I can only imagine the effort but also the wonder and joy of being part of such an incredible undertaking.

I wish them every success and look forward to getting to know them better, to get to drink more of their delicious wine and watch their story unfold.

Château Constantin D139 Route du Jas de Puyvert 84160 LOURMARIN

Tel. : +33(0)4 90 68 38 99  chateau.constantin@gmail.com

www.chateau-constantin.fr

Directions

Château Constantin can be found on the  D139 just outside Lourmarin. From the village take the D27 towards Lauris. After you have passed the view of the village on your right take the fork on the left, the D139.Château Constantin is on the left with parking on the right opposite.

The post Le Château Constantin, Lourmarin ~ when you dream a little appeared first on Shutters & Sunflowers.